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guitarno

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Posts posted by guitarno

  1. I know this is an old thread but I just happen to have a really nice Warmoth replacement neck that is prepped to fit on a JTV-69 for sale.

    I had this neck mounted on a JTV-69 I had but I ended up selling that guitar. I decided it would be better & easier to return the JTV to stock & sell the neck separately.  I modified the neck mounting holes to fit the JTV-69 hole pattern and it worked out really well.

     

    Anyway, if you're looking for a good replacement neck for your JTV, please check out this one. Hit me up if you have questions!

     

    Warmoth Stratocaster Neck / JTV-69 Variax Neck - in Excellent Condition - TGP listing...

  2. I know this is an old thread but I just happen to have a really nice Warmoth replacement neck that is prepped to fit on a JTV-69 for sale.

    I had this neck mounted on a JTV-69 I had but I ended up selling that guitar. I decided it would be better & easier to return the JTV to stock & sell the neck separately.  I modified the neck mounting holes to fit the JTV-69 hole pattern and it worked out really well.

     

    Anyway, if you're looking for a good replacement neck for your JTV, please check out this one. Hit me up if you have questions!

     

    Warmoth Stratocaster Neck / JTV-69 Variax Neck - in Excellent Condition - TGP listing...

  3. I know this is an old thread but I just happen to have a really nice Warmoth replacement neck that is prepped to fit on a JTV-69 for sale.

    I had this neck mounted on a JTV-69 I had but I ended up selling that guitar. I decided it would be better & easier to return the JTV to stock & sell the neck separately.  I modified the neck mounting holes to fit the JTV-69 hole pattern and it worked out really well.

     

    Anyway, if you're looking for a good replacement neck for your JTV, please check out this one. Hit me up if you have questions!

     

    Warmoth Stratocaster Neck / JTV-69 Variax Neck - in Excellent Condition - TGP listing...

  4. I know this is an old thread and I hope that @chuskey doesn't mind me hijacking this thread! I just happen to have a really nice Warmoth replacement neck that is prepped to fit on a JTV-69 for sale.

    I had this neck mounted on a JTV-69 I had but I ended up selling that guitar. I decided it would be better & easier to return the JTV to stock & sell the neck separately.  I modified the neck mounting holes to fit the JTV-69 hole pattern and it worked out really well.

     

    Anyway, if you're looking for a good replacement neck for your JTV, please check out this one. Hit me up if you have questions!

     

    Warmoth Stratocaster Neck / JTV-69 Variax Neck - in Excellent Condition - TGP listing...

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. 6 hours ago, SaschaFranck said:

     

    Here's a sound example. 2 bars of an Fmaj7 chord, no pitching, 2 bars with PP on but at 0, 2 bars with PP on, transposed down by 2 semitones. Even with no transposition, just with PP switched on, the sound is downright unuseable. PP positioned as the first thing in the signal chain, medium picking strength. Guitar used is a Tom Anderson but it's like that (or worse) with each and every guitar I checked with.

    HX_PolyPitch_01.mp3 393.56 kB · 23 downloads

    I hope you're being sarcastic. That sounds pretty good to me throughout the whole clip. Yeah, it's not perfect, but unusable? I think that's a bit of an extreme judgement! It does have some coloration but for a live performance, it's plenty usable. 

     

    • Thanks 1
  6.  The toe switch for engaging the wah has always been super hard to engage (especially from a seated position). I was trying to turn it on last night and it just wasn't engaging so i stomped down on it hard and the pedal totally gave way and was flopping around like a limp fish. side to side, up & down, it was totally loose and I thought for sure it was broken internally.

     

    It turned out that the hex bolt just loosened up and all I had to do was tighten it, so it's not broken but that brings me back to the original issue:
    On my Helix, you practically have to stand on the toe switch to get it to engage. Is there some way to adjust the toe switch sensitivity?
    is there some way that anyone knows of to adjust the toe switch function to engage with a little less pressure?

     

    Thanks!

     

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  7. What do you mean by "1 regular mags"?  

     
    I mean the regular magnetic humbuckers. I recently bought a PRS Hollowbody II Piezo and that's the main guitar I'm working with for these presets. It has 2 output jacks. 1 for the regular humbuckers ("Mags") and 1 for the piezo output.
  8. 18 hours ago, surfsup1955 said:

     

    Interesting, how are you driving the volume for those patches, outboard DI or 'active' guitar preamp?

    I have been adjusting the "db" value of the IR and/or the Level value of the snapshot at the output block. I had struggled with volume/gain levels and volume matching between presets in my previous experiences with the Helix, but I am now trying to make my presets "more or less" level in volume to an empty patch. That means that for gainy amped signal chain for driven electric guitar sounds, I am turning down the channel volume so that it is close to the empty preset level. That makes it a lot easier to have balance with an acoustic signal chain without an amp. I am still experimenting with this setup and haven't used any of this live yet (like where am I going to play right now anyway, right?...).

     

    I am going to start building presets with 2 separate signal chains, 1 for cranked electric guitar and 1 for acoustic sounds and I hope to get them both in the same neighborhood volume wise. I am going to use a guitar with 2 separate outputs, 1 regular mags, and 1 piezo with these presets.

     

     

  9. 13 hours ago, surfsup1955 said:

     

    Definitely.  I run my acoustic preset IR mix at about 80% to pass through a bit of string dynamics.  I use 3 Sigma Acoustic IRs and I actually have the IR level at about -3db which is driven by K&K Pure Mini under saddle pickups > Gain Block > Studio Mic Pre > IR.  I found cranking the Studio Pre up too much can get harsh.  After what I've learned this week, I may go back and try retweaking it too..   

    I've also been using the 3Sigma Audio acoustic IR's. I've been having really good luck lately using them with an electric guitar that has piezos in the bridge. The 3Sigma IR's with that guitar are giving a really inspiringly good acoustic sound. I've used their IR's in the past but I was never as impressed with them as I am right now. I also have a number of patches that don't have any amp or preamp block in them at all with those IR's and the acoustic sound is really good without them. 

  10. For a Cabinet IR 100% mix is "Normal" and most probably sound better this way but let your ears be the judge! I will say that in the case of using an IR to simulate an acoustic instrument, many times 100% mix is NOT the best sound. I often get better results at a lot less than 100% in those cases.

    • Like 2
  11. On 9/10/2020 at 6:17 PM, amsdenj said:

    This is what I used:

     

    Warmoth Specifications

    Style: Stratocaster®

    Construction: Modern Construction

    Orientation: Right Handed

    Neck Wood: Quartersawn Maple

    Fingerboard Wood: Ebony (Black)

    Nut Width: 1-11/16"

    Back Shape: Standard thin

    Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)

    Tuner Ream: Gotoh/Grover (13/32" 11/32")

    Radius: 10-16" Compound

    Scale: 25-1/2"

    Fret #: 22

    Mounting Holes: No Mounting Holes

    Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut

    Inlays: Mother Of Pearl Dots

    Side Dots: White Side Dots

    Finish: Vint Tint Satin Nitro

     

    But I have relatively small hands and like a pretty flat fingerboard. You might have other preferences.

    I should have used larger frets.

     

         Thanks for your reply @amsdenj I appreciate it. I was putting together some options on the Warmoth site & my neck spec list I was putting together is very similar to yours. Almost exact actually. Did you drill the neck holes yourself or did you have a tech do it for you? I'm pretty sure I could mount & drill the neck myself but that would be the critical step & I wouldn't want to make a mistake there.

    15 hours ago, amsdenj said:

    Before you replace your JTV-69S neck, be aware that there are some advantages of a thicker neck. First they're more stable, hold their setup better, stay in tune better, and are not impacted as much by changes in temperature and humidity.  This can be important if you're playing inside air-conditioning and outside gigs in the summertime. Second, a heavier neck and body can give better sustain, and more uniform response up and down the neck. It might be a good rule of thumb to use the heaviest neck that fits your hands. 

     

         Relative to this post & the Warmoth neck shape you chose (Standard Thin)  how is that working for you? You mentioned you have smaller hands. Mine are not huge but on the bigger side (Wish I had longer fingers though). I am considering going a little larger than "Standard Thin" but I don't want to make a mistake there either, I had an Eric Johnson Strat that had a pretty hefty neck profile and also a JTV-59 that also had a substantial neck profile, but even though they were a little large they actually felt fairly comfortable to play. The neck on the early models of the JTV-69 felt huge to me when I initially tried them out years ago. The neck on the JTV-69 I have now is really not that bad, it's a lot slimmer than the older ones.  I would prefer that it was wider at the nut though, and would like stainless frets and a compound radius.

     

    Speaking of frets, picked out the same frets you listed (SS6105). I was actually thinking that shorter frets might be better. Sometimes, in the heat of the moment on a gig, I get excited and start using too much finger pressure and fretted notes in the lower registers go sharp. It's really a technique flaw on my part but I was thinking that shorter frets would help. Why do you wish you had taller frets? Feel?, Ease of bending strings? Just curious because I want to make the right choice there too.

    I was also considering an Earvana nut as I put one on a project guitar some years back and thought it did help the tuning a bit in the open position.

     

    I think I agree with you about the advantages of a thicker neck. The stability thing for sure and I'm sure that the neck plays a bigger factor in overall tone than most people think. I also assume more mass there might impact the modeling positively.

     

    Thanks!

     

  12. On 8/12/2017 at 11:01 PM, specracer986 said:

    Here's a few pics of my JTV-69 with the new Warmouth neck I put on it. It's a mahogany neck with Bubinga fret board. Earvana nut, SS6150 frets, Standard Slim profile, compound radius. I'm having another Warmouth neck made that will go on a JTV-69S. It will be a short scale, birds eye maple neck and fretboard with the Wizard profile. Another month before I get that one.

     

    http://i.imgur.com/cK9PtCz.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/cdl8o92.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/tfgL18K.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/jhD8uXd.jpg

    I know this is an old post, but I recently picked up a JTV-69 myself. The neck isn't horrible but ideally I would like it more with a few changes and am thinking of swapping it out. Warmoth seems like the ideal place to get exactly what you want. I am still trying to decide on some options. I am curious how the neck with the short scale worked out for you. I'm not sure I will do that but I am considering it. Also, the Earvana nut. I put one of those on a previous guitar and I thought it did improve tuning on chords in the open position. Some people say it doesn't really do anything but I could hear a difference. How does that work for you with using the vibrato bar? any different that a standard nut in that regard?

     

    Thanks

     

  13. On 4/19/2018 at 6:27 PM, amsdenj said:

    Just save the patch in whatever state you want the Variax to be in and it will recall that way. My typical Gigging setup is a JTV-69S and either a Strat Deluxe, Les Paul, or (a really nice) Epiphone Sheraton II Pro. I use snapshots to control a couple of open tunings and an acoustic tone within the same patch. But I save the patch with the Variax Mags. In any case, the other guitar into the guitar input always works. I just have to remember to turn its volume down when I put it on the stand, a good habit anyway.

     

    I was struggling with the same thing and this worked fine for me. I am using the "Multi" input type like the OP asked for and just saving it with any model on, or the models turned off and the mags on, and it works. So simple it's counter intuitive...

  14. So I don't need to use the VDI interface box that originally shipped with the JTV's? I don't have one and would prefer not to buy it unless I absolutely have to. I have tried to use the Helix to update firmware and it always errors out. I'm not sure what the reason is if I don't actually have to use the VDI box. My path is JTV > VDI Cable > Helix > USB Cable > Line 6 Monkey running on an iMac. Errors out with a MIDI error but I'm not using MIDI for anything while I'm trying to do the update. If anyone has any advice, I'm all ears...

     

  15. Used is sometimes a gamble but I've been very lucky buying guitars online. I recently bought a JTV-59 and it is in outstanding shape. I will say though you should be aware of what is or isn't included. Mine was just the guitar and the case, nothing else. I had to buy a battery, and cable, and it looks like I might have to buy the VDI Interface if I want to update the firmware. A lot of used JTV's don't include these items so that will add to your cost.

    • Upvote 1
  16. Is this still the case in September of 2019? I recently got a used JTV-59 and am unable to update the firmware on it using my Helix. It came with nothing other than the guitar and case. I bought the cable and a battery but that's all I have for now. The USB box is pretty damn expensive for what it is - around $100 from what I've seen. I sure hope I can do without one but I would like to be able to manage the firmware.

     

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