Palico

Just my opinion. There was some talk about Helix getting some integration on hooking to a single DT Amp, but so far that has not surfaced. I would expect either to see Line 6 continue down the road with keeping the Helix more of a FRFR solution or possibly a DT replacement coming out. Of course you can hook up some MIDI cable and use MIDI from the Helix to the DT. Some have done that and report it sounding great once the Helix patches are tweaked for the DT. If you are happy with the Helix FRFR solution, why keep the DT around? I've heard the Helix FRFR and didn't like the gain sounds too much myself. But I also don't like the POD HD when it's running FRFR either.

I ordered a new Floyd Rose Pro bar and noiseless springs last week for my JTV 89f, so I put a small clip together on the before and after. On each test I am plugged straight into my DT25 set on voicing IV. Didn't change any knobs or setting between each clip. Surely it made a difference in the sound, although not a night day difference, but I'm happy with the upgrades. https://youtu.be/IYmguytoB5Y

Yea DT25. So one 12 speaker. It doesn't sound exactly like 4x12 of course but I like the fatter type of tone with the T75 model.

Easily my favorite, quite good to me on HD500 without DT amp as well using full amp model. Overdrive(output almost maxed, drive to taste)>Plexi Normal Pre(Treble and presence are almost dimed)>T75 4x12. I also really like the "Dividied" for Blues type of tones across the DT.

Thanks for the tip on that one. I had not seen the trem arm before. Ordered one just now for my 89f. That's too useful to pass up. When ahead and got the noiseless springs as well since they were cheap and maybe help with any ping from my peizeos on the Variax.

Thanks for the help :D , I got my new tubes in last night. 22mv on one and 26mv on the other so within the bias parameters. First time I've did Bias myself. Boy that knob is touchy, took a couple of times to dial it in. Glad I set it. It was 24 on one and 30 on the other to start. So make since on why I had so many problems out of that second tube.

http://joe.emenaker.com/TremStabilizers/index.html Good information here on Stablizers. I got a Backbox and put into my 89f. I avoided using FR guitars mostly before putting this in. With mine setup to so bends are accurate it does change the feel of the up pull (well I tend to push the bridge with the palm of my right hand using ups instead of pulling on the bar) but it's worth the difference. I would not own a FR without one now.

I have a 89F. I'm at work right now so it's not handy to get the neck measurements. It's not as thin as most Ibanez wizards but still a thin type of neck, string spacing is a bit wider than most guitars, I think it supposed to be similar to a Jem spacing but I can say it's a bit further between strings than my LP or Strat. The neck is kind of soft C shape and is one of my favorite things about the guitar. For first timer with a FR, somethings to be aware of. Without a trem stabilizer, bending and double stops will be slightly out of tune. I highly recommend putting a good stabilizer in it, makes all the difference. It will take a bit to get setup correctly if not done when it get it. Once setup change one string at a time is a lot easier than taking them all off/on at once. Locking often kicks the string out of tune just a touch, final tuning is done with ones on the bridge. Stretching out new strings is even more important on these. Using the modelling if you take the bar down too low it will loose contact with the peizeos and drop out, of course on mags it's fine to take it low as you want. The fun part is once you get set thought you can go nuts with the bar and it come right back into tune. Even doing crazy stuff like taking it all the way down and then just letting go off the bar suddenly. And the GraphTech FR is one of the best ones I've ever used as well.

It seems safe enuf with the position, just wanted to make sure that I put a metal micro screw driver on it was wasn't risking getting shocked

Hey watched a quick video on setting the bias as I know I need a new set of tubes (on order now). Seems easy enough. Quick question. Since the Amp will be on and I know tube amps have enough amperage to kill you, been shocked by one before and scared the daylights out of me. Luckily just enough bite to scare me. Do you need to use a plastic screwdriver tip to turn the bias setting for safety? Or using a metal one okay as since it adjust away from the circuit board.

Okay so I need to order me a set of EH tubes for it, and likely a spare set. GC list has as a Hard/Medium/Soft type for the EH EL84. I assume use the Medium ones? Oddly Tubestore doesn't have that option of Hard/Medium/Soft.

Just looking for some thoughts. I know the DT25 uses EH and that is the recommend from Line 6 as this amp is a bit of hot rod. I had a tube go bad on my Friday afternoon, no problems I had a spare EH tube I took out of the amp a while back because it had some discoloration on side of the tube, like slight burn mark. So I put it back in. All was fine. I had a show Saturday and didn't want to be without a spare as I don't exactly trust that tube to begin with. So I stopped by the local GC and picked up a set of Groove Tube EL84 match set for spares. Now I'm wondering without taking it to someone to bias (no one around here I would trust with this type of amp), would putting those Groove Tubes in hurt the amp or just wear out quicker? Not sure if should really order a new set of EH EL84 tubes for the best possible sound or if the Groove Tubes would be fine. Right now I'm kind of leaning towards just leaving the one questionable tube in until it gives me a issue, since I got two Groove Tube EL84 that could get me thought a show if they had to. Thoughts?

Honestly if you feel this way, I would suggest looking into a analog gear. The reason it simply because when a Marshall etc... fails you likely will be able to find someone around that can fix it. Why, because there is still a lot of tube guys around most places that can fix it. When your HD500x fails, you can try to find someone to fix it too, but odds are on that there will be no one. That is just the fact there are not enough units around, enough $$$ to be worth fixing, and they take too much skill to fix. But that is just the way of high tech devices. Who is going to be around to fix your 1999 flip phone when it breaks too? No one.

If you want Stereo without the two cable use the 500(x) itself as the interface, otherwise you have to use two inputs on the interface, one for left one for right.

I have not used the 69. I own a JTV89F. The trem is very smooth but of course it's a Floyd Rose, some not so much. But if you have Ibanez guitars your familar with it. I feel the setup is designed to be close to Ibanez RG line. It feels a good bit like a RG but the neck maybe not quite as thin. The Mag pickups are good sounding hot pickup, of course the variax side is about the same. If using the variax side, you do have watch full dives as you can do far enough down the peizos lose contact with the string and cut out. I really like mine once I put a tremolo stabilizer in it. Love the spring spacing a neck on it.

I like the fact they are actually doing a "signature" guitar finally. But not my speed. Not bad looking though.

Been waiting for Helix DT integration or DT replacement. But with this ability in Plug-in and integration back to the floor. Might have to make the jump and deal with MIDI cables. Well done.

If your using a POD HD500(x) you don't need to mess with MIDI. The capability to set class/topology etc... are all in the POD over the L6 Link. If you go Helix you will need to use MIDI. The POD has amps models listed as "Pre" and ones without. The "Pre" is modelling the PreAmp , cab and mic without the power amp. The normal models cover the Pre-Amp, Power Amp, Cab and Mic. Since the DT is providing the power amp section using the "Pre" models in the POD provides you with something that should match what the DT does but with a lot more modelled amp sections. However; some people perfer using the "Normal" models over the DT as well, so let try both and let your ears be the judge on which works better for you.

Yes the POD basically takes over the preAmp side and handles sending the commands for the topology etc... In the software you can actually set the topology etc.... that it sends. It defaults to the correct one for the amp model out of the box already though. This is also why the POD has the "Pre" versions. They take out the power amp modelling so it works with the DT they way it is designed, although some have reported likeing the full modelling with the DT instead of using the "Pre" ones. All up to you, try each and see what you think works best for you.

Thanks for the info, I use NYLL 110 so that nice and exact. I up or down them the half step all the time. There is slight difference in feel but it's not major, at least to me. All my guitars are setup for half-step tuning and up them when I need to for an open jam or sometimes when practicing with something someone else recorded. No buzz, but again I don't use low action so that could be big difference.

I don't know the number but I really doubt the change in tension is really significant for E to Eb. I've unlocked the nut and pulled my JTV 89F up to standard to do a jam once and while. And yes the floating bridge lifts up a bit, but it's not that much. Now going a whole or more and I would totally agree. I should add that I don't use super low action on my guitars, personally preference. If you use really low action then yea it would likely buzz like crazy.

Yep my JTV 89F is always 1/2 down, physically. Yes I had the guitar setup for it. It helps the singer not wear out so bad and makes you sound a bit different. The alternate tuning are relative as already pointed out, so when I use Drop D, I'm really Drop Db. It works fine. The only drawback is the modelling does not work as well to my ears as it does in standard tuning. It's not huge difference but I can hear it. Since I mostly use the magnetic pickups anyway and just use the modelling for some very specific things it's not a big deal for me.

Might take a bit to figure out but unless you match the gain output of the mic, he will see an drop or spike in the output meters and start looking. Also depends on how sloppy he is with his cord routing. I mean I'm not super clean with it but some are.

Willing to bet it will still sound good. I've mic'ed up little 8" speaker cabs and got pretty decent results with a bit of EQ. Let us know how it goes!

As a sound engineer for my group and occasional for others. I'm going to offer a different point of view. I agree with what each of you has written about XLR out being fine and even preferable. This guy likely is not familiar with guitar modelers. I offer you one BUT. This guy sounds like he has been at this venue for long time and has established relationship with the venue owner. Do you? Do you think the venue owner is going to give a crap about what you have say? Maybe he will if you bring with you a couple hundred fans but otherwise he is likely not going to care. He likely knows this guy can be set in his ways. Get something to work with he can mic (rent or borrow something if you must). You lollipop him off and guess how your going to sound in the mains? Crap. Plus again unless you pack the place you will likely never play the venue again. Get to know the guy and maybe you can educate him a bit and he will feel comfortable with the Helix going direct.