Posts posted by eenymason
Thanks everyone who's commented, for confirming what I thought may be the case, (mainly that the Pod HD screen is old tech now, and pretty useless to anyone with glasses), and also for ideas I hadn't even considered....
Fun fact - it wasn't until I searched a little further for specs, that I found out the screens on LT, and the full Helix are the same size - I wrongly assumed the LT would be smaller!!
Thanks again guys!
Hi to any HD500(X) users that have upgraded to Helix (LT),
I'm having to admit that I'm getting old when I'm having issues seeing patch numbers, and footswitch type gifs when using the HD500 - I'm wondering about improved onstage visibility in the Helix, and specifically Helix LT. I believe I'll buy an LT version of Helix, mainly because of price, but also, I just won't need most of the options included in the full version, except (maybe) the screen.
Have you found the LT screen to be enough for clear visibility onstage, or is the full version's screen where it's at for you?
Please throw your ideas at me!
Thank you in advance for at least reading my query...
On 1/28/2022 at 12:52 AM, codamedia said:
Yes, that is a big limitation in the 1st Gen Variax with a Helix... I actually forgot about this over time.
The Helix cannot recall ANY custom presets unless they live in C1/C2 slots. When I realized this I loaded my guitar back to "factory" so there wouldn't be any surprises, then carefully populated my custom slots... it doesn't take long to fill 10. If you need to access custom guitars that are saved in their original locations, the only access to those is from the guitar itself. NOW I digress, NEVER press save on the Helix after you change the model on the guitar! it will bite you every time!
Thanks for that info- I think if this band continues, for my own sake of mind, and long term ease of use, I'll look at getting a Helix LT, and Variax Standard, and maybe keep another legacy variax, and HD500 as backups.
On 12/29/2021 at 4:45 PM, uedat125 said:
I know the post was from more than 5 years ago but I'm wondering if you still have any of those.
I have a body assembly of Variax 300 which is missing the bridge (I have a Tyler bridge but it's incompatible).
I could probably use the bridge and the neck.
Hi, I have been absent from here for a long while - I'm back to look for some info, as I'm trying to resurrect a couple of usable Vaxplants from 3 donors. Things are having intermittent problems...
I think I have a couple of 300/600 bridges, and piezo sets. I no longer have necks or bodies, but a Strat replacement neck will suit.
Let me know if you're still looking for bridge, etc - better if you reply to this, and quote this reply, so I get notified you have replied, otherwise I won't see it.
12 hours ago, codamedia said:
Yes, you can set the Helix to call a new model on the guitar "per preset". It can also be done "per snapshot" but you don't own a Helix yet so there is no need to run before you walk :)
On a 1st gen Variax... if you change the model on the guitar, you cannot press SAVE on the Helix and expect it to remember this new guitar to recall it later. The old HD500 would save that new model location, the Helix will not. It's not a big problem, its just an annoyance to be aware of.
Actually... you can change the MODELS on the guitar all you want. The problem above is different, and has to do with "recalling" a change made on the guitar.... but go ahead, change models all you want on the guitar, that works fine.
In reality the 1st Gen Variax will work almost exactly like it does with the HD500. I'm still using my old 300 and have never had a single issue once I figured out the little things to watch for.
Thanks for clarifying - I had wondered if this may indeed be the case. I understand the newer tech built into Helix means that there are things now possible that weren't even conceived back in the days of 1st Gen Variax/Pod combo.
I guess now, my only limitation will be the variax factory vs custom patch scenario, as I've modified several factory models, as well as using up all the custom 1/2 slots....
Anyway, thanks again.
On 11/8/2020 at 12:07 AM, codamedia said:
With the first gen variax guitars you create a custom tuning with Workbench and save the guitar/tuning into a custom slot on the guitar.
NOTE: To get workbench to work with the 1st Gen Variax you need a VDI USB Interface, or an older modeler such as an HD500 (not the X model), an X3 Live or Pro, or an XT Live. I'm using an old XT Live myself these days.
The VDI port operates as an INPUT on the Helix, just like the guitar input does. Once the signal hits the Helix it is processed just like a normal guitar. Even if the Loop is the first block in the path, the Variax Input will see it.
When connected to the VDI cable this is exactly how I am using my 300. If you use snapshots you MUST set them to "discard" or you will get unpredictable results.
The warning from @silverhead above should be noted... he is correct when he says Line 6 does not officially support Helix > 1st Variax operation - you do approach this at your own risk. What I can say is that once I understood all of the idiosyncrasies between the 1st gen variax and Helix... and set my snapshots to discard... it's working just fine. 2 Years and counting.
Hi, & thanks for all the above info - another question I hope to get an answer to, and I understand if you don't know...
I am toying with the idea of buying a Helix, and still have a couple of Vaxplants (vax contents from 300/600 models). I actually veered away from using them (and the Pod HD500s I used, for a long time), but a new project has come up, which could be lucrative, but if it ends up failing, I don't want to go all the way with buying a Vax standard, as well as a Helix if I don't have to. So, to clarify my question, on HD500, it can be set (per patch), whether the Pod controls the Variax or not. I wonder if the Helix can be set (per patch), to either control Varixax, or not. I note the statement that a patch change on the Variax, won't be registered by the Helix - is this because as a default, the Helix is set to control the Variax? I do a fair bit of manually changing of the guitar model (mainly switching between standard, and open tuning), on the guitar itself, so if there's no way that it's possible, and I can't find a way around that problem, then I may just stick with the HD500, until the project proves successful, and I can justify more investment. I am having intermittent glitching problems on one vaxplant, and the other has one, (slightly less annoying) problem, so I understand if I keep up the digi-format, I'll have to upgrade, but while they're still working, I'll keep with what I have.
Thanks in advance, for any further info you can confirm...
You know, I simply hadn't thought about the concept of a fake... :/
I mean, why bother, right? No vax guts - no vax!
I see now, looking closer, that it's definitely a copy, and I mean it's not bad, but certainly very obvious when you compare images side by side...
Thanks guys, I'll let the guy know that it's a fake. I haven't bought it, and am not interested in buying it, (I'm happy with a couple of legacy vaxplants I have), but if they're expecting good money for it, then, lol.....
So, when is a variax not a variax.....?
For sale in my part of the world is what appears to be a JTV59 without any variax electronics installed - just a wraparound tailpiece, and two humbuckers, with no sign of extra routed compartments on the back.
I haven't been on this forum for years, and I'm sorry, but I had a quick search and couldn't find anything about this particular anomaly, so here goes a question to the JTV59 hive mind.
I wonder whether this could simply have been a mistake with a Variax headstock veneer being added to a James Tyler LP style build? Could it even be a prototype that made it out without the variax guts?
Hi DL4 users...
after seeing Bill Frisell in a recent Line 6 blog/promo sent out via email, I'm really keen to get this kind of thing happening, particularly making use of half/full speed, and reverse, as he does in this demo.
I posted this question on the HD500, but maybe dedicated DL4 users with HD500 experience may know the answer?
I have an HD500, and want to know if I need to buy a DL4, or is all the functionality of the DL4 available in the HD500? I understand all the delays, and looper are there in the HD500, but wonder if there's anything about the DL4 layout/funcionality that differs from the HD500. I would probably set up a patch on the HD500 approximating the DL4 layout, etc, for use into a small valve amp, so would avoid all amp/cab modelling, etc.
I understand one difference is that the loop volume can't be controlled by an expression pedal on the HD500, but I guess I could work around that...
Thanks for the replies - I guess I should have said that I have used the looper a few times on the HD, but I'm wondering if the DL4 has specific functions that the HD doesn't?
Maybe I need to post this question on the other effects forum page?
I guess I figured someone here may have spent intimate time using the looper and all it's associated functionality on both units.....
Maybe I just need to get all jiggy with the HD today, and see what I can do with it!
Hi guys - any that are still using these dinosaurs! :)
I have two HD500 modellers, and haven't been using either of them with any regularity for quite a while now.
I'm considering buying a DL4 (delay modeller), and after watching Bill Frisell showing how he still gets great use out of that piece of gear after years of going through other failing pedals, I wonder if the Pod HD500 can be set up to loop, etc in the same way that the DL4 does, to be brought in and out of play. I'm sure I could do hours of research, and still not really know what I want to know, without actually buying a DL4, to ascertain whether I actually need it or not, to do that kind of usage of time/pitch change, loop reversal kind of stuff. I love it, but wouldn't know how to go about it on the HD500.
Does anybody use their HD500 in the same kind of way that Bill Frisell does here? Is it possible, or does DL4 have different capabilities?
On 5/20/2018 at 2:55 AM, Williedave said:
I just got this variax guitar used and it wasn't working I pulled the back plate and found that someone had disconnected the 5 way switch witch wires go where please someone help
You're not going to get much help without more info on the variax model you bought... If you see the 5 way selectorby removing a back-plate, I guess that narrows it down to either a JTV69 or JTV89, in which case you need to post this question on the JTV forum instead of here. I guess at least then, someone could upload a photo of inside.
Another thing to note is that most people who use the acoustic models on the variax, say that using heavier gauge strings, and a lighter touch gives you a more realistic sound. I don't use it so much, so don't claim to have any expereience with this either way - it's just what I've read here on the forums. Have you searched for "acoustic" tags on here?
Totally doable, with all due care and attention to the intricacies of the variax innards. I have one Tele clone, which I bought as is, and two Strat clones, which I transplanted myself.
As codamedia suggests, with JTV and Standard models available (more expensive to buy second hand than 300/500/600), if you want magnetic pickups as well, they'd be what you want to buy, whether to use as is, or to transplant into a Tele clone, if that's what you really really want. The early variaxes however, didn't have mag p/ups, and evidently it IS very complicated to have both mag p/ups and variax 300/500/600 electronics together on the one instrument, except if you're happy to have separate controls for each output (magnetic, and variax), as well as separate output jacks, and you'd have to work out how to blend those signals downstream.
If you don't need magnetic p/ups, then transplanting 300/500/600 guts into a Tele is not that hard, as long as you are handy with a router, and maybe a chisel. I woudn't buy a real Tele for the transplant, but a cheap clone would suffice - my Strat clones are SX brand, bought because they have alder bodies, and totally usable necks (with a bit of fine tuning to suit my tatste), though the frets do wear pretty quickly with regular gigs.
psarkissian says they won't sound the same, but realistically, it's not a deal breaker - besides, if you A/B with another variax, you can tweak stuff in workbench, if you're that anal about tones being out by 5% or thereabouts, but I'd say you won't even notice. The Strat models will still sound like Strat models, for example....
On 4/25/2018 at 4:26 AM, allan said:
As for the cables, I grabbed a brand new RJ-45 cable, workbench interface, VDI cable, and power pedal when I bought the guitar, so I'm quite sure the fault isnt anything outside the guitar.
I'm inclined to think that psarkissian was correct about the solder points oxidizing and now just have to convince myself not to attempt to resolder it myself, lol. That should be easy enough, so long as inter-island shipping isn't more than the guitar is worth (which is possible).
So is it simply a connectivity to workbench that's the problem, or does it not make any sound? It could be the output jackplate causing no connectivity to WB - you can still get these I believe, although it may be that you have to order one for Variax Bass, or JTV, and some chisel work inside the 600 jack plate assembly cavity to allow it to fit, as these others are a little longer, and need more depth in the body.
If it's the latter, have you tried both VDI and jack outputs for signal? There are many points in the chain, where there could be a failure, whether momentary, or permanent. I have two 300s and a 600, all of which have been transplanted into either Strat or Tele clones, all of which have shown odd behaviour at times. They're not getting any younger, and well, they're computers basically, so time is up for them, at some stage, for sure....
It can be frustrating troubleshooting these, as it's not simply pickups, switches and pots... I have been able to swap components around between guitars, in order to troubleshoot, so unless you know someone else locally who owns one, and is happy to allow some temporary component extraction, you'll find it hard going.
My first suggestion is to try swapping the output jack (complete unit), with one you know works, and work backwards from there.
As far as I know, the PCB is no longer available (my mate got the last one i stock, from one of the online suppliers last year), so you'd be looking at getting a second hand donor, e.g.300, if yours is indeed fried.
7 hours ago, Augeundso said:
Sorry maybe theres something lost in translation.,
One more time.
When i use the internal pedal as a mastervolume it keeps the volumesetting when i change patches.
For example i switch from clean to crunch and dont need to touch the volume pedal.
When i use the external it doesn't. Its zero after changing patches even if the pedal is "open". I need to touch and readjust.
I ask if i can have the behaviour of the internal pedal for the external. And i added that this works w/afx i have.
You need to set/save the min/max levels, and also (as I found out recently), with each and every patch you add the second expression pedal to, you need to disconnect/reconnect the pedal, then save settings, for the Pod to recognise that it is connected, and controlling the volume. This is a huge PITA when you already have the Pod fully setup with patches without a 2nd pedal, then try to add one. I recently raised the question if there is a way around it with Line 6, and THERE IS NO WAY AROUND IT GRRRRR!!!!!!
Thanks for your response codamedia - no java errors, and monkey installed correct workbench...
I had the need to try it again last night, and with success - went through the process of selecting device, and found I had to select the Pod HD500 first, which I hadn't done on the previous (unsuccessful) effort. Although I felt it all somewhat confusing, I guess I'll have to put that one down to user error.... I don't recall having to do that ever before.
Digital gadgetry has a bad day?
Does anyone know of an issue regarding connectivity between Variax 300/600 and workbench using Pod HD500, and Windows Vista? I have no issues with connecting to Monkey, or HD Edit, via the same connection.
So here's the story...
I successfully reflashed the firmware using Monkey in my 300/600 vaxplant, as I was having a strange warbling issue all of a sudden on the open 6th E, and fretted F. So after reflashing, I go back into Workbench to reload all my user patches from a backup, and it won't connect. I used monkey to download Workbench again, used the Line 6 uninstaller to uninstall Workbench, then re-installed it. Still no banana. Doesn't even recognise 300/600 as being connected. Disconnect everything, reconnect, still no banana.
I connected to my MacBook Pro, and everything connected fine, reloaded patches fine.
So I had a workaround, but I still want to have connectivity, as my computer workspace is where I usually do it all.
Wouldn't this be a question for Parker?
the chances of being noticed here by them are almost nil..
if you want to speak with Line 6 staff I suggest to open a support ticket...
and/or.. you can write a new post in thegearpage.net "digital & modeling gear" forum, since some of them often read and reply to posts regarding their devices written over there..
in any case apart from some eventual additional information do not expect anything else ..
the HD series is a finished and abandoned project ..
Regarding your case, IMO it is likely that your old patches have saved the status of the device taking into account that there was not a second connected expression pedal .. and recalling those same patches but with a second pedal already connected the device is not able to dynamically reconfigure ..
unless you re-insert the external pedal which is then seen as a change/edit, and then saving the "edited" patch again the problem is solved.
following the same logic it is also probable that, if you saved a patch with the second pedal already connected, and later recall that same patch but without the second pedal already connected, the correct 1 only pedal switching between EXP1 and EXP2 would not work as you would expect
Thanks for your input - making sense, as usual Nico!
Hi all expression pedal nerds,
In the past, I have simply toggled the on-board pedal between exp1, and exp 2, to change from volume to wah, or whatever else....
I just bought a second hand EX1, and it functions as it should.
My problem is, every patch, (presumably, because it was set up with toggling the onboard pedal only), I have to physically unplug the EX1, and then re-connect it,and then save the patch, for the EX1 to have control of the volume, freeing up the onboard pedal for whatever else....
Is there any way around this? Yea - I know - first world problem, but surely this scenario was thought of, in the design phase!
LINE 6??? Anyone home to answer this?
ticket I did not because it is out of warranty, by the way I already had an account on line6 that on which I had registered some products, but the mail provider closed more than a year ago (libero.it) and I had no more way of recovering the password and then I created a new account. Not knowing how to do, can I still open a ticket ?, the line6 the most sell me the selector? I have no problem doing the repair
If I understand your problem correctly, I believe you can do this yourself - have you replaced the bank selector pot, and now can't find which way to replace the knob, so the models read correctly?
You can locate a guitar tone on one of the other variaxe 300s you have, and note the position of the bank selector , and pickup selector.- usually something like one of the alternate tunings in the presets, or the dobro, or banjo are quite easy to recognise.
Find the same model on the variax you replaced the bank selector pot, and replace the knob in the right position (same as on the other variax), ensuring it's inserted fully. Be firm, but don't be a gorilla and break it....
Hope this sorts out your problem for you.
I wouldn't think so either but, I'm just glad it works.
Sorry to drag up an old post, but I recently bought a 2nd expression pedal. and, I'm having exactly the same problem. Did you find out a more user friendly way, than unplugging and re-plugging the 2nd expression pedal? Prior to purchasing the pedal, I had all my patches set with exp2 = vol and exp1 = wah (or occasionally, another value adjustment), and I really don't wanna have to go through each and every damn patch, unplug, plug, unplug. plug..............................
I have three earlier models, (2 x 300s, and 1 x 600), all of which have been transplanted into Fender clones, (2 x Strat, 1 x Tele), and all have served me well as gigging guitars, linked to my Pod HD500. They now all behave erratically in different ways.
The first one I bought new, (a 600), I used as is, for a few years, then xplanted it into a Strat clone, at the same time replacing the piezos with Graphtech Ghost Piezos, For around a year or so now, it has been randomly cutting out (I presume it's somehow losing power from the VDI cable, either momentarily, or for longer periods), as it seems to work ok with battery pack, and an ordinary lead, though (also randomly), it sometimes gives an odd high pitched tone (not overly loud, but annoying) via this method, then the tone just fades out.... I tried replacing the Jack plate assembly, but I still have the random cutting out issue, with any of the 3 leads I have.
Number two (a 2nd hand 300), had a very strange thing, which was a mere annoyance really... It would have to be plugged in via VDI for about 10 minutes or so, before all piezos could be heard through the amp. I could still tune it on the Pod tuner - presumably sufficient crosstalk was happening via other piezos to be able to do that, but the first E and B strings didn't produce sound for a while, but then once it "woke up", ,would be fine to gig with. I xplanted the electronics into another Strat clone, and also replaced the Piezos with Ghosts. This seemed to fix the piezos not producing sound as soon as connection was made via VDI, but then some time later, it started to occur again....
Third 300 I bought was already xplanted into a Tele clone, with you guessed it, Graphtech Ghosts onboard instead of the Baggs Piezos. This one was fine for a good while after buying it, but then started to randomly jump to other banks, which could be corrected by toggling to where you need to via the pickup selector, but it's a PITA when you're all of a sudden in an alternate tuning, and it sounds like you dunno what you're playing!
Being digital equipment, there are elements which are difficult to troubleshoot, and let's face it, they ain't getting any younger.....
If you get a bargain, that plays without a problem for a good while (like hours, not a quick plug in, and 5 minute noodle), then jump in, cos even buying a new Standard won't mean you won't have problems, but if you're under warranty, there's some peace of mind, I guess....
As an aside, here in Australia there's been a 2nd hand 300 up on ebay for months (maybe over a year), at some shop, and they obviously have no idea about the product, as they're asking AUD$1295, when you can buy a brand new Standard for a similar price....
Now if they drop that by a grand, it's a good price.....
Variax 300 600 parts for sale after transplants..
in Variax Guitars / Bass / Workbench
I'm only on here randomly these days, so reply with quote if you want me to be notified you've asked a question...
I should have the original piezos, but I think I ended up re-purposing the 300 bridge-plate. Let me check, and get back to you with what I have.
Anyway, isn't the 700 a trem setup?