tagmusenmagnus1

And what is that ? - The thing you loose ? 
I cant figure out what you loose except for the delay before you second split. But you could just move that to after merge ? 

Also - Do you have a third cab ? And what are you using that for ? 

No. Not unless you are using very long cables, which you probably aren't for you speaker, that should be right beside you :) 

I know, but when you go to the "pedal-edit-mode" (Hold down mode) there is no system ? 

Actually in this case, you would need to move the merge block in path 1a down to 1b and then move the A/B-block from 2a down to 2b to get a proper stereo seperation. 

The best way is to use the pan function in the merge-block... In your case i would do it on both marge blocks - both in path 1 and 2, so you will get a cabinet in each side. 

Can I ask what the preamps in path 2 are for ? Havn't seen that one before :)

Hi! 

I find the Idea of the edit mode very nice, but there are just things I dont understand with it. 

Is there any logical system to which effect goes which switch? I cant see any and i find it quite unusable. If I have two instances of the same effect there is just no way of knowing what switch to press ?? 

Why wouldn't they just keep the effects that are assign to a switch in that position ? I know that there can be multiple effects on some swtiches, but this just seems weird . 

Does anybody know if there is a system at all or is it just random ? 

It may sound stupid, but have you tried deleting the block and making a new one ? 
And have you tried assign a different block to the same switch ? 

I dont have any solutions for you, but those could be possibilities ? 

I guess it is a trick for making Ambient big sounds. 
This way you will not get that "bump" in the sound when the loop starts over again.

But you cant do stuff in time - or it will at least be very very hard to do :) 

The pinned thread on top of the forum is still saying 1.4.3.

Just a notice :) 

But they should definitely make an option for "no action of first turn on joystick" I can't count how many times I have turned it by mistake and lost the settings of that block. It surely can't be hard.

Unless you have to remove it I would leave it there

Remember is you have the looper block in the same position the looper will persist through I preset changes

Sorry. What was the last thing you said ? :p 

But that would be a gate after the echoes... It is a possibility, but if you have one after Delays, you should remove it completely. 

I was thinking the same thing. :)  How would a Helix user get anything at all written if they did that?!

Hah. It would destroy our entire careers :) 

At least use some decent cables to hook up the radial :) 

cacibi,

 

I removed the 4 screws holding the rubber feet in the corners and replaced them with 4 metric screws the same size, but longer -- long enough to allow me to attached to 1/2" clear pine cleats to the bottom of the Helix (with washers). The cleats are colored flat black so they disappear. I then set everything into a pedalboard roadcase with a lift off top (see attached photo). There are wood screws with trim washers that reach up from underneath the roadcase and hold the cleats to the roadcase. 

 

If you're wondering about the Radial stereo direct box, although the XLR outs on the Helix work fine in some local active monitors I use at home, I'm getting some noise when I run them into the FOH console at one of the venues I play every week (BTW, it's not related to the 'ground lift'; it's not the typical 'ground noise'; the position of the Helix ground lift switch for the XLR outs doesn't make a difference). I found that taking the 1/4" outputs from the Helix into the Radial gives me a clean signal to this particular FOH console.

 

Hope this helps!  :)

Sounds like the problem that some people describe when sending 48V to the Helix' XLR outs... 

If you have the option to turn the Phantom Power off on those channels, I would give it a try... 

If you need the footswitch for something else, you can choose "Replace" in stead of "merge" when assigning the new block to the same pedal... 

Exactly... 
Thats what feedback means - Do you have any problem with the sound, if you turn it up higher than 75%, or ? Guess there must be a reason to why you havn't done that already ? 

Yeah, okay, I see. 

Actually you could just wire a potentiometer to a jack and plug it in as an expression - its seems silly to have an actual pedal. 

 No - you would need a second expression pedal (external) if you want your onboard pedal to control wah.

Why ? 

If you dont have any other vol. pedal, it should be possible ? 

I dont think you can do it this way, but you could use the headphone out for your monitor and use that knob instead. 
But of course your suggestion would be more ideal.

What other solutions have people come up with ? 

I hate duallock - Yeah, nice it is safe and firm - But you cant get that lollipop off again. It might have something to do with the "soft velcro" that is in my board from stock, but two small pieces on a pedal and it is a struggle to get it off. 
If you have two lines of this under a Helix i imagine, that it is very hard to get the unit off again. 

Hey Guys! 
You dont need to have a seperat path for this to work - You could just place a stereo Return-block (i.e. return 3/4) as the last thing in the chain - If you want it to go to the same speaker at least. 

Its an easy fix and should work just fine - havn't tried it though.

i wouldn't think so, but I havn't checked...

Yes, yes and yes. 
 

Actually i am not 100% shure about the mono question, but i would say 95 % as there is no logical explanation to do anything else :)  

But if it is only for signal analysis i would just put the send block as the first thing - no need to worry about mono...

But they are actually not. He has two amps and a drive... In his video at least - cant speak for the rest of them...