BillBee

You need a source of sound to hit the guitar to cause the feedback, so yes an amp or monitor is needed.

The only thing I can suggest is try cleaning the fx loop jacks with DeOxit. Spray on a patch cable and run it in and out of the jacks. Then do the same for the speaker jacks, inputs, etc. Leaving an amp in a garage for a year and a half can be rough on electronics. There is a pcb mounted battery that could be changed if you decide to pull the chassis and clean the pots. But usually that is when the user presets no longer can be saved. The Douverb is a great sounding amp. L

To use midi you need to use a midi/usb cable like the M-Audio Uno.

Yep - good advice unless you can score a used one on the cheap. I've seen used HD Beans going $100 - $150 if you feel the need to try one. It has a bit less DSP and routing as the 500s but for the $ its a great unit.

I use a Tech 21 Power Engine 60 and have run an HD into a variety of FX loops and never liked going in the front end of amps with it. The only time it sounded decent was with the amp/cabs disabled and minimal time based effects (so there wasn't much point of using an HD this way IMO). Just watch the volume setting on the HD the first time you use the fx loop. Normally it bypasses an amp's master vol.

Yep, they still work, though depending on the OS you are running Gearbox may or may not. There was a Silver upgrade at one point depending on the serial # or date of mfg.

I don't think the POD series will be done per se', Its too recognizable brand. I do believe that the HD series (like PG sez) is hitting the price point where decisions on the path forward have to be made. What modeling tech would be the question and Helix modeling would be the way forward IMO.

9/10 its the midi/usb cable. I use an MAudio Uno and it works with L6 gear. I learned the hard way by trying a ebay $2 special and it was driving me nuts with timeout errors. So try an M-Audio Uno. The Flex 3 still delivers the goods and is a good sounding amp when dialed in.

If things go the way of the XT and X3 than "no" it will not happen. The HD is robust and even with the zillion things on Ideascale the money will be allocated for the Helix and the Helix LT. The LT IMO is supposed to be the HDs successor.

MKIs will need to be serviced at the component level. I wish a warehouse would find a few crates of NOS boards. :)

Check with L6 about getting the correct input jack with the nut (I think there are two types). Unsolder/resolder. If the Switch itself is bad it might be a common one you can get from Mouser, but again check with L6 to see what parts they might have in stock or steer you too.

Necro thread from 2014 fyi. ;) You need to see if its the HD, FBV or Cable. 9/10 its the cable. If the cable checks out good then check the FBV on your pc via usb and see if its detected. Last step would be to shine a flashlight into the usb posts of the HD and FBV to look for bent pins.

I have an updated Vetta 1 and use it here and there with the Variax at home. Just a wonderful unit and the longboard gives it the control versatility. Big heavy mother that needed casters. I am quite sure L6 knows how great it is and is fearful of what the price point would be to recreate it updated with say Helix or at the least HD tech. :) The Duoverb also cranks some sweet tones. I still love the plexi on it.

It works with Pod Farm 1 and still should work as an audio interface. I've used the Gold TP with Audacity and Reaper.

Yeah that's what I feared. The mainboard for the MKIIs are out there but the MKIs' are not. A heatsink or fan is not really a solution as the problem is already there and it would at best "maybe" postpone the inevitable trip to the service center. I never recommend poking around in an amp as you can get zapped really bad by the caps in there. Psarkissian is "the man" to talk too regarding a trip to the L6 Mothership for service. The poweramp section will still work and does make a great tube based poweramp for running a modeler into. Keep that in mind before setting it on fire. :)

The SIV 150 HD specs off of American music supply were: S4 HD: (WxHxD): 27.5 x 10.75 x 11 inches SV MKI 212: Dimensions: 26.75" L x 21.75" H x 11.25" D Close and the height looks like the same as the SVHD100 head. That 2x12 is a heavy beast.

You need to use HD Edit 2.26 for model pack support. Check to see what version you are using.

Hey there, I haven't fired up the XT in a while but IIRC American Punk was usually the first thing Gearbox loaded for me too. I just accepted it - it does what it does. :)

Hey there, best thing to do is look up the specs and compare. Spider 3 HD Dimensions: 26.4L x 9.25H x 10.75D SV MKI 212: Dimensions: 26.75" L x 21.75" H x 11.25" D For width and depth look short for S3 HD, but check the other versions. I have a 212 SV head conversion btw and it is nice - 40w tube is still really loud (and its lighter). IIRC the guy made it by chopping the cab in half.

I am not a SV guru by any stretch but from what you describe it sounds like something, either a component or solder joint, is beginning to fail in the preamp section. They generate ALOT of heat and the MKIs suffered failures due this -> IMO btw. One user put a fan pointed at the chassis and the reboot loop stopped for awhile. Another tried an innovative heatsink mounting. But those are not cures just an indication that the failure was probably heat related. I would shoot an email to L6 and see what they say as its not a tube amp like Crate's old V line where remounting a 5w resistor took the heat out of the pcb. It does look like a Service job.

Great story, times like that are priceless. I am supposed to be learning that tune soon so I will be up close and personal as I tab it out. Tough to say on the "no sound" when switching channels unless the patch was screwed up and had the volume zero'ed by default. Fire up Edit and see what's what. You can develop some monster acoustic chops and some of those cats are monster players. Its all about what makes you grin. :) '76 Deluxe Tele one of my faves and hear you about the wife selling things. If mine sells them for what I told her I paid I may have to come back and haunt her!!

You have to delete the old L6 Monkey first. Those other instructions are what they are. HA!! I was able to convert the FB instructions to a PDF. Hope that helps. Show? The band melted down early in the year and we finally have a singer/bass so hopefully we can get back on stage soon. VETTA REFLASH INSTRUCTIONS USING MIDI OX (1).pdf

Oh I am slaving away, but I get a chance to have a break here and there. 15 years of lollipop to go!! ;) TBH regarding the Vetta patches - I have only ever made mine own. You could try loading them in the editor and if they audition correctly in the amp they "should" be fine. -Bill

Its all good my man, and I really hope you can get the other brick going. The midi/usb thing is what I think has caused the most amount of problems. I made sure the Edit software was fully working (transferring, editing, saving) prior to flashing the amp. I did have to go In/In and Out/Out with Uno instead of the In/Out normal way (could just be my Uno was mislabeled but it worked). Social Media, yeah I hear you but it is what it is. :D

The FPP is smaller than the HD/XTL/X3L series so any bag for those will do - Gator make an inexpensive one that works good too.