eklynx

I have had a wire go loose in my capsule also doing similar.

50-75 ohm is impedance of the cable.  pretty sure you want it to be 50-ohm for sure.  Past that there are different classifications of the actual cable like LMR-XXX or RG-XX, where each classification basically says 'at these frequencies, this is how much signal loss you can expect per X distance'.   I suggest LMR-240 because that's the best bang for the buck you'll probably find.  if you're running really short (like 6 in jumpers) it probably won't make much of a difference over the more common RG-8 cable, but with the price difference, i'd rather get the one with less signal loss.   Then the connector is the last important piece (BNC i believe in this case).   Do an amazon search for "LMR-240 bnc" for examples.  Keep in mind if you get a jumper, you'll probably need to get a coupler/gender changer for one side.  Or look at the rack mount kits that will give you a front rack panel with a couple short jumpers so you can get the antenna mounts in front of your rack space. (i.e. Shure UA440)

No, they won't.  The G50 works on the 2.4GHz range, so 443MHz antennas won't pick up a clean signal.  If you need to extend the antennas, i'd pick up a couple short LRM-240 grade or better extension cables and find a better place/way to mount the antennas (suction cups? magnets? short mic stands?)

How on earth would the polar pattern of a mic have any effect on RF problems? 

Bah, blame lack of coffee.   directional antennas

Did you have the same symptoms when your wire came loose?

yes, it behaved similar.  shake the mic a bit while talking, does it make it worse?

I had one of my mic capsules have a wire come loose on the inside; i'd check that too. 

One other thing you can do is add some directional mics antennas pointed at you and away from the audience.  That might help isolate the radio signals.

Yup.  you can even use the guitar body pack too (as long as it isn't the new G70/75 version). They just need to all be on the same RF mode.

the M20d mixer is still a great mixer.  I just think the support and updates for it has disappeared, as Yamaha is pushing their TF mixer line.    I upgraded to the TF mixers (TF3 and TFRack) because i needed the aux sends and I love the Dante audio recording and stage box options.

just make sure the channel number matches and it should work. (i'd make sure the handheld is in RF1 mode)

Yes it does.  I do it all the time with the v75 mic going to both the G50 and G90 receivers.  It just won't work with the newer G70/75's.

You mean the stuff at the bottom?  hold down for a couple seconds and you can drag them to swap with other spot.

The main reason i'd say no to this is because any instrument's electronics, and even the body will be hindering the antenna of the transmitter severely limiting the range.

i constantly run a 5/6 pc band as well.  I was running out of inputs any time i needed to mic anything more than kick/snare.   But my main issue was aux sends, with everyone running in-ears, we ran out of mixes VERY quick.  There are plenty of ways to get the same EQ mixing per speaker with matrix outs on the X32 board. The perks of the M20 are its size, and simplicity of tuning.  

The bottom line is that M20 does not let you grow; this is the only reason I swapped to the Yamaha TF mixers (i have the TF3 and TFRack). I loved working with the M20, but I needed more monitor sends, and there were a few gigs that i started using 30 input channels (needing to mic up a full drum kit and floor mics for dancers).

What are the network settings on the M20?

Right now according to your screens the iPad doesn't have an IP address yet.  you have to wait until it times out DHCP and just fails back to a 169.xxx.xxx.xxx address before it has a chance of seeing the M20D. 

TO make things quicker you can have the M20D and the iPad use static addresses.

I.E.

for each:

 - M20D ip address 192.168.1.10

 - iPad ip address 192.168.1.11

for both:

 - subnet mask 255.255.255.0

most of the time you can still use an unbalanced signal even if the device uses balanced (it just grounds/ignores the cold signal).  pinouts matter.

honestly, most people wont notice the difference in analog vs Line6 link.  if you have something that works, stick with that.  the M32 will let you grow more as well.

Yup, they should work just fine.  I have a G50 and a VX-75, and i have many times used the handheld on the G50 and the belt pack on the VX-75.  You just can't cross over to the new generation G70 or G10 as far as I know.

Our band usually has a couple line 6 packs and 1 or 2 Shure packs at the same time with no issues.  I'd have the Shures search for frequencies after the Line6 stuff is on as Shure's frequency scanning works really well.

One other thing to note: the G50 can be running in RF1 or RF2 modes, but the G10 i'm pretty sure is only RF2.  They highly emphasize not mixing modes, so i'd make sure the G50 is in RF2.

Basically: run both in the same RF mode, and make sure they're on different channels.   The transmitters will work with either receiver (i occasionally have my XD-V75 handheld going through my G50 receiver when i need a second mic and no guitar).  If memory serves, the difference is that the G30 receiver doesn't have as many channels available as the XD-V75. 

My personal troubleshooting hums list (not feedback, just hums).

1) mute channels one at a time until the hum goes away.  That'll confirm which channel is producing the hum..  if the hum gets quieter but it still exists, then there's most likely more than one channel humming.

2) Once you've isolated the channel(s) producing a hum, verify all cable connections are tight.

3) If hum persists, swap cables with known good ones.  use short test runs (i keep a known good 3 ft cable in my pocket for this).  this is to isolate the problem to the cable.  

4) if hum is gone, run another cable along the length.   if hum comes back, get cables with better shielding or run the cable a different way to avoid what's causing the interference.

5) if hum didn't go away, double-check the device.  If it's a microphone swap with a spare (you do carry a couple spares, right?) If it's a DI or other device, hit the ground lift.

6) If that still doesn't solve the problem, put an isolation box in the run (i.e. http://www.audiopile.net/ISOBOX-1)

7) if hum is still there, then you most likely have something wrong with a device itself (bad connection on a jack, dying device, etc). good luck :P

Interesting read - we've just recently had the first dropout on our V55 and I can't understand why. As far as I can tell it was the only 2.4ghz source in the area (it was a wedding in a converted stable/barn sorta thing, miles from anywhere, with no wifi, and clear line of sight between mic and receiver about 15ft away), but still it dropped in and out for two songs maybe. 

 

Slightly concerning! 

if people have cel phones, they also are 2.4ghz sources, as they're constantly pinging "what wifi is out there" when it isn't connected to a known network.

I have owned an M20D since it pretty much came out and it has done a fantastic job.  The sound is clear, it's easy to use, but has enough advanced options if needed to really tweak the sound well.  The SD card recording has been great

That being said, there have been no updates or talk of updates to this mixer since Yamaha bought out Line6.  I've also outgrown it (I needed more inputs and aux outs).   As the digital mixer space has grown in the last handful of years I've switched over to the Yamaha TF series. I've been using the TF3 now for almost a year and have the Rack version pre-ordered for smaller setups, but with the stage boxes to be able to expand the connection capabilities.  Downside is multi-track recording now has to happen on my laptop through the Dante card (i think the USB connections will only record stereo to a direct drive.  USB to Host computer is multi-track audio though i think).

As for the other companies: Soundcraft makes some good boards as well, but again, no SD Card recording to my knowledge, and don't know about any multitrack capabilities.  I cant's stand Behringer high ends (too harsh with more digital artifacts), and the reverb on the Mackie boards drive me nuts.

Just my 2 cents.

Only time you should be using RF2 is if you have control over the wifi around you and it won't be changing too much (a.k.a. rehearsal space and large stages where the audience is many many feet away from the hardware)  People walking around with their cel phones will most likely be constantly changing the 2.4GHz state.  my rule of thumb: whenever in doubt, go RF1