Jump to content

eklynx

Members
  • Posts

    140
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by eklynx

  1. 50-75 ohm is impedance of the cable.  pretty sure you want it to be 50-ohm for sure.  Past that there are different classifications of the actual cable like LMR-XXX or RG-XX, where each classification basically says 'at these frequencies, this is how much signal loss you can expect per X distance'.   I suggest LMR-240 because that's the best bang for the buck you'll probably find.  if you're running really short (like 6 in jumpers) it probably won't make much of a difference over the more common RG-8 cable, but with the price difference, i'd rather get the one with less signal loss.   Then the connector is the last important piece (BNC i believe in this case).   Do an amazon search for "LMR-240 bnc" for examples.  Keep in mind if you get a jumper, you'll probably need to get a coupler/gender changer for one side.  Or look at the rack mount kits that will give you a front rack panel with a couple short jumpers so you can get the antenna mounts in front of your rack space. (i.e. Shure UA440)

  2. i constantly run a 5/6 pc band as well.  I was running out of inputs any time i needed to mic anything more than kick/snare.   But my main issue was aux sends, with everyone running in-ears, we ran out of mixes VERY quick.  There are plenty of ways to get the same EQ mixing per speaker with matrix outs on the X32 board. The perks of the M20 are its size, and simplicity of tuning.  

     

    The bottom line is that M20 does not let you grow; this is the only reason I swapped to the Yamaha TF mixers (i have the TF3 and TFRack). I loved working with the M20, but I needed more monitor sends, and there were a few gigs that i started using 30 input channels (needing to mic up a full drum kit and floor mics for dancers).

  3. What are the network settings on the M20?

     

    Right now according to your screens the iPad doesn't have an IP address yet.  you have to wait until it times out DHCP and just fails back to a 169.xxx.xxx.xxx address before it has a chance of seeing the M20D. 

     

    TO make things quicker you can have the M20D and the iPad use static addresses.

     

    I.E.

     

    for each:

     - M20D ip address 192.168.1.10

     - iPad ip address 192.168.1.11

    for both:

     - subnet mask 255.255.255.0

  4. My personal troubleshooting hums list (not feedback, just hums).

     

    1) mute channels one at a time until the hum goes away.  That'll confirm which channel is producing the hum..  if the hum gets quieter but it still exists, then there's most likely more than one channel humming.

    2) Once you've isolated the channel(s) producing a hum, verify all cable connections are tight.

    3) If hum persists, swap cables with known good ones.  use short test runs (i keep a known good 3 ft cable in my pocket for this).  this is to isolate the problem to the cable.  

    4) if hum is gone, run another cable along the length.   if hum comes back, get cables with better shielding or run the cable a different way to avoid what's causing the interference.

    5) if hum didn't go away, double-check the device.  If it's a microphone swap with a spare (you do carry a couple spares, right?) If it's a DI or other device, hit the ground lift.

    6) If that still doesn't solve the problem, put an isolation box in the run (i.e. http://www.audiopile.net/ISOBOX-1)

    7) if hum is still there, then you most likely have something wrong with a device itself (bad connection on a jack, dying device, etc). good luck :P

  5. Interesting read - we've just recently had the first dropout on our V55 and I can't understand why. As far as I can tell it was the only 2.4ghz source in the area (it was a wedding in a converted stable/barn sorta thing, miles from anywhere, with no wifi, and clear line of sight between mic and receiver about 15ft away), but still it dropped in and out for two songs maybe. 

     

    Slightly concerning! 

     

    if people have cel phones, they also are 2.4ghz sources, as they're constantly pinging "what wifi is out there" when it isn't connected to a known network.

    • Like 1
  6. I have owned an M20D since it pretty much came out and it has done a fantastic job.  The sound is clear, it's easy to use, but has enough advanced options if needed to really tweak the sound well.  The SD card recording has been great

     

    That being said, there have been no updates or talk of updates to this mixer since Yamaha bought out Line6.  I've also outgrown it (I needed more inputs and aux outs).   As the digital mixer space has grown in the last handful of years I've switched over to the Yamaha TF series. I've been using the TF3 now for almost a year and have the Rack version pre-ordered for smaller setups, but with the stage boxes to be able to expand the connection capabilities.  Downside is multi-track recording now has to happen on my laptop through the Dante card (i think the USB connections will only record stereo to a direct drive.  USB to Host computer is multi-track audio though i think).

     

    As for the other companies: Soundcraft makes some good boards as well, but again, no SD Card recording to my knowledge, and don't know about any multitrack capabilities.  I cant's stand Behringer high ends (too harsh with more digital artifacts), and the reverb on the Mackie boards drive me nuts.

     

    Just my 2 cents.

  7. Only time you should be using RF2 is if you have control over the wifi around you and it won't be changing too much (a.k.a. rehearsal space and large stages where the audience is many many feet away from the hardware)  People walking around with their cel phones will most likely be constantly changing the 2.4GHz state.  my rule of thumb: whenever in doubt, go RF1

×
×
  • Create New...