mkaylor

6 minutes ago, rd2rk said:

 

You cited a "computer-like hiss". Is USB connected?

Unhooked the USB's from the Powercab and the Helix first thing.  Only thing hooked up now is G10->Helix->Rumble 25.   When I lifted the ground,  the hiss went from having a computer like sound to it, to just a straight hiss.  If I unhook the 1/4" from either end hiss stops.  Unhooking G10 makes no difference.  Turning up or down volume on helix or selecting difference patch makes no difference.

With the plug out and touching the jack,  ie.... ground to ground...  Hear Nothing.    If I crank mids or treble,  it is more pronounced.  Hiss is there from 0-10.  Since lifting the ground,  it hisses like a fully cracked amp.  Just enough there to drive you insane.

Looking for a 1/8" converter,  should have one somewhere.  Going to see if it does it in the Aux port.

Always thought the lift was for XLR only.  That did help a little bit, but not totally.

Thank you

I have a G10 to a Helix, running into a Powercab Plus with Line 6 Link without issue.  I also have Helix running XLR stereo out to a Focusrite Scarlett 18/20.  None of this has any issue.

I added a Fender Rumbler 25 to practice Bass.  Hooked it up with the 1/4" output.  Now I hear this computer like hiss that rolls in and out. but just on that amp.  I've unhooked EVERYTHING from the Helix and it's still there.  Everything is hooked into the same power outlet for ground loop isolation.  I've also tried another 1/4" cable and routed it a different way.

G10 straight into in the Rumbler has no issues. 

Checked the 1/4" setting on the Helix and it's set to Instrument.

I'm at a loss on what I can do to isolate it.  Can I lift the ground wire on the 1/4" or do they make some sort of isolation device for 1/4" .  This has to be between the Helix and Rumbler only.

Please Help,

Mike

"

Thanks really great info.  With a Helix I have the ability to load an IR  in it and from what I read,  you would want to run the speaker in FRFR mode if you load the IR on the Helix.  So any reason to use the speaker sims in the Powercab Plus and not use the ones inside the Helix?  Because it's run in the Powercab,  is that what gives it the AMP IN THE ROOM sound? 

My head is turning like in the Exorcist.   

I'm thinking if I can load the IR's in the Helix,  then it's better to save the money and get the cheaper Powercab and leave it in FRFR Mode.   I know I have to be missing something here somewhere.  I see too many people using Helix with Powercab Plus and talking about controlling it.

Thank for the help,

Mike

I have 2 questions I hope someone can help me with.  I'm an at home player only.  I want something that fills the room better than my monitors.  Plus with monitors,  if I move 2'ft either direction the stereo field changes and it doesn't sound right.  I want to go back to something more like a regular cab with a bigger speaker and a clean sound.,

I already own a  Helix,  is there any real advantage to buying the Plus model?  Thinking maybe eventually getting 2 non-plus models for stereo?  Just don't want to have buyers remorse. 

Will the Powercab work well at lower volumes?  250W is lot, and all anyone talks about .  It won't offer much control if you can crank it past 1 or 2.  I've not really seen anyone post info on playing at low volumes at home while trying not to p1$$ the wife off. 

Thanks for the help,

Mike

Is there a way to turn one of the loops send/receives on globally?  I have a Digitec Trio looped through and would like to use it anytime without editing each patch.

Maybe there is another way to hook it in?  Currently I go USB in and out to the computer for audio.  I use the 1/4 to the amp (possible) and I use a mixture of Variax / Aux (GP-10) and real guitar ports.

Thanks,

Mike

Will we ever be able to tweak them hooked to the Helix like the POD? Does the hardware support it?  It's a pain break out another piece of equipment just to play with settings.

MIke

Besides that, IIRC the FC 7 uses a "stereo TRS" plug, and so it wouldn't work anyway.

Works fine,  seems smooth and fluid,  just backwards.  Didn't realize this would be such an up in arms topic.  I happen to like the FC 7, it's heavy, cheap, and works really well to be made of thick plastic.  I really don't want to throw it away because it's backwards,  guess it's time to cut the plug off it and rewire!

Our OWN expression pedal is the Line 6 EX-1. It's obviously fully supported.

Are you not also Yamaha?  It's obviously NOT fully supported.

The pedal being old mean they had plenty of time to take in to account their own equipment.  Don't ya think. ;)

The Yamaha FC7 works backwards.  Kinda funny since they own Line 6 now.

Any plans to incorporate Amplifi style town matching into the Firehawk?

Any word as to when the shipments should start going out?  Christmas is probably out of the question by now.

Mike

Working with Focusrite,  if you unplug the USB cable going to the HD500X the 18i20 stays in sync with it.  So definately a problem with the USB on the HD500X for some reason.

I have an iMac running 10.8

Uptodate Line-6 HD500X hooked up USB to iMac and SPdif to Focusrite 18i20.  HD500X demands to be the sync source.

UptoDate Focusrite 18i20 hooked up USB to Mac

Focusrite works great and all is well until I start playing the guitar and it switches from Spdif sync to Internal and starts clicking.  I've tried 44 and 48Khz.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike

I did go ahead and adjust the action and with a quarter turn on each side with an allen wrench, she is perfect.  What a great guitar!

If anyone needs to know,

1.27mm Saddles

3.5mm Truss Rod

I just purchased a JTV69 from Guitar Center Outlet last week.  It has string buzz from one end to the other, every fret on the Low E and some on the A strings.  Also the Low E seems to be especially dead (go figure, it's rubbing).  Guitar has really low action 1.4mm Low E at the 12th.

I put new EB 10's on it. Didn't help.

I put a piece of metal over the middle pickup.  I could have swore it made a difference.  So I lowered the pickups on the Low side (may have helped a hair). But not nearly enough.

Neck looks very flat so I loosened the Truss Rod 1/4 turn.  That did put a little curve in it and raised the string height a little but buzz is still there. Maybe a hair less....

Next I started really looking hard at the problem.  If I press like hell on the string it stops buzzing and this works all the way up and down the neck.  But I mean you have to really press with all your might.  Never seen anything like that.  I went from a Schechter to a Fender Strat recently and I did have to learn how to use Jumbo Frets, but this is nothing like that.

Does it with power on or off.

Only thing I haven't done is raise the action.  Just purchased a small enough allen wrench to try that.  However, it seems like the bridge is sitting almost flush in the rear.  I don't think a piece of paper would slide underneath.  Which is fine, my American Strat is setup that way now.  Stays in tune better. Maybe that's there the problem lies.  Not sure how to raise the bridge.

I guess I have 30 days to return it for Store Credit.  Wonder if I'm screwed? I could take it to a luther but I'd rather try to learn something, taking slow subtle steps and then reversing them if they don't correct the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

Thank you,  is there an easy way to tell which one you have?  The guitar I bought serial is W11110245  so that is Nov 2011 correct?

Thanks again,

Mike

I just purchased a demo model JTV-69 but it was missing the Tremolo bar.  Guitar Center says they don't carry one for it.  Is there a generic that I can buy that will fit or where can I order a true Line 6 one?  Anyone know what they cost?

Thanks,

Mike