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FlyingSquirrel

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Posts posted by FlyingSquirrel

  1. Yes, look up a tone in Custom Tone that I created called "Morph".

     

    You can then use this as a basic template to "morph" from clean to crunch.

     

    It basically requires you to be setup in Dual Tone, select your respective amps, and the expression pedal turns one down as it turns the other up.

  2. I am not sure the One Spot puts out enough juice TBH, I think it puts out ~ 1700 mA max and the HD's is ~ 3000 mA. My general rule of paranoia usually defaults to using the factory PS.

     

     

    Thanks to Dana at True Tone, found a way to use the ONE SPOT, The Multi Plug 5 Cable, and a couple of their adapters, and now I can use just the single ONE SPOT wall wart with the 5-cable & the adapters.  This single ONE SPOT wall wart will now be the sole power supply for the Line 6 HD500X, The Line 6 G30 Wireless Receiver, Boxx FB-2 Feedback, and the Morley ABC switcher.  Voila, done!  The Morley only needs power to light up the LED's, so there's next to zero power draw.

     

    First, you’ll plug the standard DC cable from the power supply into the CYR (red) adapter.  This reverses the polarity to a positive tip.  Next, plug in the L6 (green) adapter.  This reverses the polarity back to a negative tip and gives you the bigger center pin.  Plug the L6 (green) plug into the Line 6.   That way you have a negative tip polarity with the 2.5mm center pin. 

     

    CYR – Reverse Polarity
    L6 – Reverse polarity + 2.5mm center pin.

     

     

     

    Important Clarification as I have not revisited this thread for a bit.

    Since the HD500X factory wall wart adapter has a higher amp rating in order to provide the HD500X with its required power, the factory supplied HD500X wall wart is what I am using to power via the 5 plug daisy chain.  The HD500X is first in line to receive power, then the other units, all of which have been confirmed by True Tone to bear the tolerances necessary to protect them from any potential overpowering.

     

    I am NOT using ONE SPOT's wall wart, but I am using their 5 plug daisy chain.

  3. Mine isn't in stereo, but...

     

    So I had a pic of my "dry fit" in another thread.

     
    Here's the whole thing.
     
    1st Dry Fit:
    TFS%20Pedal%20Board%201st%20dry%20fit_zp
     
     
    After:
    DSCF2127_zpssyor9b1q.jpg
     
    I decided to repurpose some cable that I had not used for many years, was just sitting in one of my storage bins of all my gear not currently in use.  To replace the plugs, rather than spending upwards of $60 on a solder-less kit ala http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PedalCabKit?adpos=1t1&creative=105744826921&device=c&matchtype=b&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAjwpLa5BRCTwcXS6_rpvC4SJACTDQMMzPfavLhMKzPiXEQ6lKKNYRnNaCJIzGVthCuye8W7GBoCsqnw_wcB and I then purchased a 10-pack of 1/4" Right Angle Plugs that I found on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-4-TS-Right-Angle-MONO-Phone-Plug-Cord-Connector-6-3mm-Cable-Jack-/310876769771?hash=item4861b30deb:g:FG0AAMXQlgtTAwnF 
    DSCF2128_zpsb8bt1y7d.jpg
     
    As I mentioned in the other thread, I re-puposed some sheets of 3/8" plywood to make this new board.  I measured and cut it to fit inside of my Rondo Pedal Case http://www.rondomusic.com/product8085.htmland made the board 3 sheets thick.  The center piece is a "spacer" to allow passage of the power cables and the audio cables concealed between the outer two sheets.  The spacer runs the perimeter of the board, as well as strategically placed spacers in the center of the board, most notably where I would step on the expression pedal, the Boss pedal, etc...  This is mainly because these areas have to bear more weight due to the heavier switches, so I didn't want the board to sway or dip when I use these switches.  I also decided that in order to clean up the edges from splintering around the perimeter, as well as the passage holes routed in the top, that a 3/8" round-over bit should do a nice job of cleaning that up.  After that, since the top was nearly perfectly cut, and the center and bottom pieces were roughly cut to match, my flush cut router bit that I use for routing pickup/control cavities should clean that up nicely, and I think it did a reasonable job of doing so.
     
    DSCF2132_zpsuqva6c4k.jpg
     
    These pics give you a sense for how rigid this board is, plugs won't accidentally unplug so easily, nor will the power cables do so.
    DSCF2131_zpskpjpup9p.jpg
    DSCF2130_zpsmxznsvix.jpg
     
    These brackets that I used to mount them are easily found at most hardware stores.  I found these at Home Depot, for about $3.00 a 4-pak.  I got the idea from http://www.pedalboardsupplies.com/pedal-links-system.htmlbut decided that I could likely find a more cost effective solution.  In the same fashion as the "pedal links", these are non-invasive and totally reversible.  They basically act as an oversized washer with an extended tab.  I'm going to go back and remove them temporarily so that I can paint them black, then re-apply them so that they'll blend in for a cleaner appearance. Since the G30 Relay Receiver uses very small headed screws that recess into the chassis, I was not able to use the same bracketing system, so I'll have to use some hook&loop fasteners (Velcro), but, the nice thing is that I can just staple the one piece to the board and it'll be easier to remove later if I need to.
     
    DSCF2129_zpsykjmszvz.jpg
     
    In discussions with True Tone (formerly Visual Sound) regarding their ONE SPOT ac power supply and adapter kits, we had ascertained that using the ONE SPOT power supply would not be enough to power the HD500X, but it would power all of the other components.  Even then, using the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, even the ends on those would not fit the HD500X anyway.  We later determined that I could use the HD500X's factory power supply to power the entire rig with no risk of hurting any of the other components, so they advised doing so, but first adding their L6 adapter, to get it into the HD500X, then their reverse polarity connecter plugged into the L6, then the end of the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, powered by the HD500X factory power supply.  Now I have accomplished my goal of powering the entire rig from one single "wall wart".  I still have room to add another pedal between the Boss & the Morley pedal, i.e. Dunlop John Petrucci Wah pedal or another Boss pedal, but honestly, I have most of what I like and would find useful already in the HD500X.  I can now switch between Wireless A, Wireless B, and a cable as a backup on the fly.  With all of the Morley switches de-selected, I have another mute function.  With the extra power outlets on my power strip, I can power perhaps an iPad, Laptop, my synth rig, or anything else needed.  I played this at work the other day and FOH loved being able to just lay out an XLR cable for me to plug into, then I powered it up, they gave me some back in my monitor, and since I'm very meticulous about the way I set up my presets, they were able to switch the eq "out" on the channel strip on the mixing console.
  4. 1st "dry fit" of my home made pedal board. I used the same case from Rondo Music (CNB PDC-410H SSL Pedal Case - RondoMusic.com) that I had using velcro on the back, but I didn't feel that it was sturdy enough, so I grabbed 3 sheets of 3/8" plywood, used the center one as a perimeter and spacer block piece, now all of the power cables and audio cables will be concealed between the out 2. The open slot next to the Line 6 G30 wireless receiver is for a second one on a different channel. Now, when I switch guitars live, I de-select A, then select B. I'll have a cable plugged into C as a backup.  When all lights on the ABC are off, system is "Muted" before hitting any other audio.  I still have room for another pedal to the right of the FB-2 should I ever decide to add one, ie; Cantrell or Petrucci Wah.

     

    I show up to church/gig/rehearsal/session, remove the lid, plug in the power, plug in a mic cable to the D.I. and I'm up and running.

    I have a True Tone (Formerly Visual Sound) One Spot 5 cable plug which plugs into the G30's, the Boss FB-2 Feedback Pedal, HD500X, and the Morley ABC switch.  The 5 cable is powered from the HD500X power supply.

     

    The entire pedalboard will be powered by one single power supply or "Wall Wart" as they are more affectionately referred. No more multiple "wall warts" on the pedal board.

     

    As far as mounting goes, I simply purchased some brackets as you see below, removed the screws from the outermost 4 corners of each pedal, placed the bracket between the screw head and the bottom of the pedal like a washer, then re applied the screw.  I got the idea from these guys (http://www.pedalboardsupplies.com/home.html) The Morley pedal has a different type of bottom plate, and the screws for it mount from the side, so I discreetly drilled holes through the bottom place right through the rubber feet, then screwed it down to the pedal board, then re-applied the Morley chassis, and secured it to the bottom plate.

     

    I still have some side sanding to do to smooth out the transition from top/bottom, then I'll paint it black on the top, and on the inside of the rear cover so you don't see bright colored backing in the holes.  I'm also going to use some glow in the dark spray paint on the outer perimeter which is why I have about 1 inch of reveal left.  I did a 3/8" roundover on the top edges so they would stay smooth, otherwise, it'll just get crunched off with the shoe anyways.

     

    TFS%20Pedal%20Board%201st%20dry%20fit_zp

  5. Thanks to Dana at True Tone, found a way to use the ONE SPOT, The Multi Plug 5 Cable, and a couple of their adapters, and now I can use just the single ONE SPOT wall wart with the 5-cable & the adapters.  This single ONE SPOT wall wart will now be the sole power supply for the Line 6 HD500X, The Line 6 G30 Wireless Receiver, Boxx FB-2 Feedback, and the Morley ABC switcher.  Voila, done!  The Morley only needs power to light up the LED's, so there's next to zero power draw.

    First, you’ll plug the standard DC cable from the power supply into the CYR (red) adapter.  This reverses the polarity to a positive tip.  Next, plug in the L6 (green) adapter.  This reverses the polarity back to a negative tip and gives you the bigger center pin.  Plug the L6 (green) plug into the Line 6.   That way you have a negative tip polarity with the 2.5mm center pin. 
     

    CYR – Reverse Polarity
    L6 – Reverse polarity + 2.5mm center pin.

     
  6. I use Dual Amps especially in my "Morph" preset.  Rock the expression pedal back for a clean AC30, forward for a Bogner Uber.  
    I still have it sent to mono.  All of my presets and outputs are sending the same info.  For a 2 guitar player band, mono just helps everything sit in its space well.  

  7. Short of getting a DT25 or DT50, you can also look into the Freidman FRFR cab, or doing a power amp+cab setup, ala a Carvin T100 & the 2x12 of your choice.

     

    I have a Carvin AG100 Acoustic amp that I'll drag out every once in a while and just insert into the loop return, going directly to the power amp section of the amp.  It's worked out good for me so far.  Another venue that I play at from time to time has a Drive 2x12 combo there that I do the same thing with.

     

    I'm likely going to go the Carvin T100 route and get my own custom 2x12 cab made from Mojotone, basically a Marshall Bluesbreaker cab with Fender Tweed appointments as I'm very fond of that look.  I haven't settled on a speaker choice yet, but am toying with the idea of paring a Celestion Vintage 30 with a Celestion EVH.

     

    Mojotone%20Bluesbreaker%202x12%20combo%2

  8. I've had my HD500X for just under two years, and I am still loving it. Before that, I had my XT Live with the Metal Pack for 8+ years, never had a problem with it either, but I found that the option of Dual Amps and the addition of the H-3000 modeled harmonizer were important features that I had missed since the old days of multiple rack components, like my ADA MP-2 preamps (one for clean/one for dirty) to do the "morph" preset  (Back/Clean - Forward/Crunch) using the expression pedal.

     

    That being said, I've been doing this for 35-ish years, and have never had a problem getting good tone.  Some items take longer than others, but the ears do the work more than the gear.

     

    I am thoroughly pleased with my L6 gear.

    • Upvote 1
  9. Freidman Jerry Cantrell amp.

    Eventide H9 pedal for modulation/delay effects, ie; chorus, harmony, digital delay

    Dunlop Jerry Cantrell Wah.

     

    My self designed/home made TFS7 guitar.

  10. ok, please do this experiment:

     

    - change view mode

    - don't save

    - power off

    - power on

     

    which is the mode you see on LCD?

    I changed from Big User to Performance mode as you suggested.

    didn't save.

    powered off.

    powered on.

    opens to Performance Mode.

     

    switched it to Big User

    didn't save

    powered off

    powered on

    opens to Performance mode

     

    my preference is Big User, so

    I switched it to Big User

    didn't save it

    powered off, 

    powered on

    opens to Big User, changing banks and presets remains on Big User.

  11. the "save" button saves the patch in its current state (cursor position included), but doesn't save the display view mode (Signal Flow View, Big User View, or Performance View)..

     

    but as I said before, when the POD is powered on it stays in the same view mode used before powering off, it is not a per patch setting which can be saved, it's a general behaviour

     

     

     

    Funny, it's working for me.  I changed it to performance mode, hit save.

    Powered down, powered back up, it's in performance mode, no matter which bank and/or preset I hit.

  12. there isn't any specific setting, but if you turn off the POD while in performance view, that one will be the mode on LCD when you'll turn it on again

     

    Get it to the view you want, then hit save, then power down.  When you power up again, it should be defaulted to your new selection.

  13. I'll take the modelling in a pedal like the 500X straight to FOH over my old 20 space rack & cabs any day.

     

    It's more powerful than my old rack, and the price differential of $400 vs $12,000 is easy to decide upon.

     

    I get my monitor mix via IEM's in stereo, the SPL on stage is lower giving FOH far more control to give a better mix.

     

    There's less gear to haul.  I'm down to just my guitars in their cases, my HD500X & Wireless plus a couple of other things in a pedal board case, and a gig bag.

     

    Modelling passes the blindfold test more often than purist corksniffers want to admit, but it calls out their B.S. which is a hit to their ego.  Either way, it's the truth, 

     

    It takes a good ear to replicate in modelling, but if you are a tone chaser with any degree of technical skill, the investment of time can pay off immeasurably well.

    • Upvote 1
  14. The only exception to Shredjsx's comment might be the usage of a very well made Stereo D.I., such as the Radial Pro D2, but I can't seem to find a reason to use one as the 500X essentially has 2 D.I.'s in the form of the XLR out's.  

     

    If you have your routing setup appropriately, you should have independent signals going to each of these Balanced and unbalanced outputs.

     

    Your balanced outputs should be usable as D.I.'s, and your unbalanced should allow you to either go to the front end of a guitar amplifier, or insert to the return of that amplifier's effects loop, i.e.; amp on one side of the stage receiving output A from the 500X, and the amp on the other side of the stage receiving output B from the 500X.

  15. I have banks of live presets, and I have banks of studio presets.

    They're very similar, with the distinction that the live ones are final tweaked with the amp.  

    The studio ones are all tweaked against backing tracks, even if the basic preset was originally downloaded from Custom Tone.

     

    Custom Tone is not going to provide the perfect preset for everyone, too many things are subjective, with the top one being the user's preferences.

     

    It's a starting point, no more.  You'll still have to tweak to taste.  Your bass players tone, and the tone of your drummer will be different than mine, and each of us have to make all of them work in the context of a band mix.

    • Upvote 2
  16. +1 on this.

     

    I have a preset for "D Standard" and another preset for "C#" for doing Black Sabbath stuff.

     

    Just put headphones on, or make sure that either your studio monitors or your amplifier are loud enough that you don't hear your strings acoustically, otherwise it'll mess with your brain.

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