somebodyelse

Did a google search for 'Powercab recovery'.

Two vaguely plausible options were,

Hold down the Home button while powering up, and hold down the Select button/Knob while powering up.

Don't know whether either will work, but if you're stuck with it not booting, then neither is going to make things worse.

99% certain HX Edit and Helix Native aren't available as 'mobile device apps'.

If you're exclusively an acoustic player, you don't necessarily need any amp and/or cab sims. Put an EQ block at the end of your chain and adjust it until it sounds good.

Haven't tried it with a HX product, but it works with the POD Go - 

Download the latest version of L6 Updater & HX Edit, and any version, other than the latest, of the firmware.

Boot the HX in to 'update mode' - hold down the 'Page >' button while switching on.

Plug in to you computer and start L6 Updater in 'offline mode'.

Manually install the firmware you downloaded.

When it's done, close Updater, reboot the HX Stomp, do a factory reset.

Start HX Edit and follow the instructions, to the letter, to update to the latest firmware.

Like I said, works on the POD Go, haven't tried it on my Helix, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

Jason Sadites channel on youtube (other channels are available).

While he doesn't do 'HX FX specific' videos, the info relating to effects setting on any of his Helix/HX video are also relevant to the HX FX.

This also applies to other Helix/HX leaning channels.

On 12/2/2024 at 4:43 PM, guitar_player7 said:

Hello everyone,

 

I turned off my PodGo during a firmware update and now I'm stuck on the red/black intro screen. Tried holding down the C and D buttons while powering on but my unit won't move past the "Will reset globals, IR, etc" message. Is there any way to recover?

 

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you.

This will fix it -

Download the latest versions of the POD Go firmware, Line 6 Updater and POD Go Edit.

Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. 

Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick.

Plug the POD Go to your computer.

Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'.

Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and try re-installing the v2.0 firmware that you downloaded.

If it fails to install, download any previous firmware version and repeat the above.

When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure.

Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit - NOT the Line 6 Updater.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.

The update will take about half an hour.

Just curious.

Tried it today, first time in a year or two. Not connecting. Not available on the downloads page.

On 11/19/2024 at 8:18 PM, rd2rk said:

Read the Release Notes?

 

 

 

It never gets old, does it?

On 11/21/2024 at 6:48 PM, LarryPeter514 said:

Thanks for the helpful info. I've decided to move to one of our Windows 10 computers and copy the My Documents/Line6 folder over. I need the Firewire stuff still running on the 7 system.

Groovy and you're welcome.

On 11/20/2024 at 8:00 PM, LarryPeter514 said:

I see that the new 3.8 Helix update is not being recognized by HX Edit on Windows 7, and yes, it no longer lists Windows 7 as a supported OS.

So before making any potentially brick-makng decisions I wanted to see if the forum members could provide some guidance.

 

1. Will HX Edit 3.8 run on Windows 7 if downloaded manually? I've seen other developers drop OS's from "supported" status even though the software would perform fine on older OS's.

2. If I need to move everything to a Windows 10 station, will the preset backups I've made on 7 be recognized on HX Edit 3.8 running on Windows 10?
3. What's the most efficient starting point if I move to Windows 10? Manually install HX Edit 3.71 (the firmware my devices are on now) and my backup files, or do I need to start with Line 6 Central?

 

 

Please, no lectures about keeping a workstation on Windows 7 for so long. This computer has been the one used to install and test most of my gear updates for years, and it's the last Windows OS that reliably supports the many Firewire devices I still need from time to time.

On 11/20/2024 at 8:00 PM, LarryPeter514 said:

Thanks in advance.

 

1. Only one way to find out. Try it. If it doesn't work, reinstall your working version.

2. Yes. They're a file format that is specific to the Helix/HX system, not the computer's operating system. As long as you have aversion of HX Edit installed that is the same or newer than the version you used to create the files, they should work fine.

3. Hmm? If it were me I'd probably unregister the computer from Line 6 account, uninstall HX Edit, upgrade (not a clean install) to Windows 10. Register the computer again with Line 6. Reinstall HX Edit. Plug in the Helix and carry on with life. 

If you're going to a new computer, all the above, except copy the Line 6 folder in 'My Documents over to the new computer. I'm assuming you do the backups to the folder that HX Edit defaults to and haven't changed it yourself.

NB: 'Just In Case', I'd copy the above folder to a USB stick, anyway. 

My gut feeling is that you could just do the Windows upgrade without the unregistering/uninstalling bits and all would be fine.

Even if your computer goes up in flames, as long as you have a recent copy of the Line 6 folder that's in 'My Documents' on a (working) USB stick, your backups are safe.

It's '6 new amps, 4 new cabs, 1 new effect, and bug fixes' you didn't have yesterday, and it didn't cost you anything... f***ing muppet.

I got it FOC when I bought my Helix.

I'm not a fan. Love the Helix, not so much Native. I have better options.

Same problem on both units at the same time?

Have they been updated recently? If so, did you remember to do a backup and then a factory reset?

That'd be my my first thought.

On 11/16/2024 at 6:24 PM, FelixKrohn said:

Hey there, I need some volume control with the HX effects but just can't manage to get it to work.

 

We have a couple of songs where I switch between finger play and slap. Slapping is much louder, so I want to have a volume control in my chai that I could make use of. So I thought of inserting a volume switch in my bank that I can switch during play. However, when inserting a volume switch in HX Edit, it doesn't show up in my HX effects. Next thought was going with Snapshots, but whatever I program in my 2nd snapshot for the respective preset just mirrors to the first one. Means: When inserting a volume to the 2nd snapshot, it also appears in the first one.

 

Can anyone help me getting a workaround?

Any setting you want to change for a Snapshot needs to be 'activated'.

In HX Edit, with the Helix, you'd right click that setting and click Snapshot in the drop down menu. Then go to your (2nd) Snapshot and adjust that parameter.

Tip of the day: Read the manual. This stuff is in there.

On 11/16/2024 at 5:48 PM, bruceweedop said:

I just got a brand new Pod Go Wireless, this is my second unit because the g10ii wireless I got as a second hand unit from amazon didnt work.

 

So first thing I did was went to the Line 6 updater and updated the Pod Go wireless and the g10II, now its doing the same thing.

 

Red light is constantly turned on when plugged into my pod go wireless, the charging never stops and when I put it into my guitar my pod go wireless doesn't connect to the g10ii.

 

I updated through the Line 6 updater, it picked up my g10ii, now after updating it doesnt pick it up, I just updated whatever the updater had me do.

 

Is it bricked, or can I fix this?

Did you do a factory reset after the update? If not, do one - see below.

If that doesn't fix it, try this...

Download the latest versions of Line 6 Updater, POD Go Edit, and any version of the POD Go firmware - NOT the latest version.

Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. 

Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick.

Plug the POD Go to your computer.

Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'.

Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and install the firmware that you downloaded.

When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure.

Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.

The update will take about half an hour.

Absolutely no experience of getting a Jazz sound from anything, but if you have, then my advice would be to use the equivalent amp model to what you're used to in the real world.

US Double (Blackface Twin) and the JC120 model, I think it's just called the Jazz Chorus are so clean you could see your reflection in them.

Play with the mic type and placement - maybe use a ribbon model, at a distance and towards the edge of the speaker - and Low/High Cuts in the cab block.

Place an EQ at the end of the chain if necessary to fine tune the base tone.

On 11/14/2024 at 6:50 PM, pennybjeru said:

A PA system is simply a working tool, and its “obsolescence” often concerns only functional improvements.

This really ^

A year on, mine sound the same, or maybe better? I have a year's more experience with 'em. They still do what I need 'em to do... the grass is always 'greener', but it's still just grass.

"The tones are in there, you just have to learn how to get 'em out"

On 11/6/2024 at 9:03 PM, mcerrick said:

For home practice, I hook up my laptop (windows 10) to the HX Stomp through USB, and headphones connected to the stomp. This way, i can play along to whatever I playback on my laptop.

Usually after about 10 minutes though, I hear a little pop, after which the laptop sound stops. I can see the windows audio source is still active, I can still hear my guitar playing, just not the laptop audio.

Disconnecting and re-connecting the usb cable doesn't help, restarting windows neither. The only thing that helps is rebooting the stomp.

Factory reset has not resolved the issue.

What could be going on?

Check you USB settings on the laptop.

The default is that the OS tries to save power by switching off USB ports that it thinks aren't being used, especially when running on the battery.

Hmm?

Helix>Powercab 112+ or 212+ with some of the settings on the PC tweaked, using the speaker "modelling", works for me... with this caveat.

I can make it sound exactly like my analogue rig, but it will never, no matter what/whose cab you use, feel exactly like the analogue rig, simply because the analogue parts of the digital rig are connected differently and don't interact with each other the same way.

Ultimately, the signal chain will always be different and the cab I'm hearing through is not the same as the cab the 'real amp' would have had.

On 11/8/2024 at 12:18 PM, thirdspace said:

Thanks - all good stuff :) Just to clarify - what I am after is effect of an amp and guitar in the same space complimenting each other - that natural sustain, like a boost to the sound especially higher up the neck. I have tried many speaker sim/cab/mic combinations and IRs, and while good at recreating the sound as if you were recording it, do not 'boost' the signal in anything like the same way. That is, they mostly 'take away' from the sound recreating the technical frequency responses/EQ curves of various speakers and rooms. Probably just haven't found the right one yet - if you are aware of any that recreate the effect of an amp 'moving air' that would be great. I guess part of it is more of a perceived effect at the ear also due to the natural compression of the ear drum in response to higher volume levels.

The harsh truth is you'll never achieve it 100%.

The signal chain is not, nor can it ever be, exactly the same.

With your analogue gear, at it's most basic, your guitar goes in to the front of the pre-amp>power amp>speaker, and even if you use a separate cab, that speaker still has an influence on how the poweramp behaves.

With the Helix (and every other digital modeller), your guitar signal goes through an A/D converter, then all the magic happens, then through a D/A converter, to your (presumably) FRFR cab where it meets a Class D poweramp and on to the speaker.

The virtual amp in your Helix is separated from the speaker by a converter and a Class D amp. The real speaker cannot influence the virtual amp.

The only way to 'move air' is to move air. If you want to 'feel' like a you're playing a 4x12 stack going flat out, you're gonna need a 4x12 with the volume turned right up.

Digital modellers can't change the laws of physics (Cap'n), but they can make the same noises.

On 11/4/2024 at 5:02 PM, datacommando said:

 

Ah, ha, but the Enigma machine was cracked by the team led by Alan Turing in Hut 8 at Bletchley Park.

 

Incidentally, Yamaha R&D are just down the road from there.

 

Riddle, mystery or enigma?

Marshall are (or were) on that site, IIRC.

As for MIDI, I only found it 'tricky' in times when we couldn't actually see on a PC screen what we were doing.

Since PCs and Editing apps, it's got a helluva lot simpler for me - press a button, press another button a few times, turn a knob, press another button, press 'save' twice, cross your fingers and press whatever switch/button you were trying to program to make things happen... 'damn, which channel am I sending on? Which channel does 'Unit A' receive on?

The button pressing required just to check settings... and don't get me started on sysex dumps.

Connecting up and dragging a mouse around... heaven.

The 000-127/001-128 thing still infuriates me, though.

On 11/4/2024 at 3:55 PM, rd2rk said:

 

Not on mine.

You've never played mine, so obviously, you've not tried EVERY Catalyst, so how can you possibly state that?

We've either got a language barrier problem here or a comprehension issue. 

Are you sure that you know what "attenuation" actually means?

I've explained multiple times how the amp works. You've never acknowledged anything I've told you.

 

 

You just keep insisting that you're right, and now you're doubling down on being wrong.

 

What did support say in response to the ticket that you opened?

 

 

Give it up,man. You can't argue with a moron, and I read in another thread that he returned it last Wednesday.

A Helix costs over a grand.

The book costs $20. If you can't afford to waste $20, then you need to rethink your priorities.

Are your outputs set right for the amp? Line level where it should be instrument level?

Global settings, check the manual and bear in mind that these settings can get reset to default after a firmware update.

On 10/26/2024 at 8:58 PM, dowielogan said:

I was updating my Pod Go Wireless through Line 6 Central on my MacBook from 1.30 to 2.0, and about twenty minutes into the update I bumped the power bar the pod go was plugged into. Oops.

 

now whenever I turn it on it shows the intro screen with the red outline of the bean pod, saying Line 6 Pod Go wireless, how to videos at..., Firmware 1.30.0

 

I tried restarting Line 6 Central, but even after that it won't recognize the pod even though I've checked all the connections. I've also flipped off and on the power switch multiple times. I tried holding Page > while powering on, but then it just stays on a blank white screen.

 

Any help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks

Sorry, I didn't see this sooner.

Download the latest versions of Line 6 Updater, POD Go Edit, and any version of the POD Go firmware - NOT the latest version.

Start your POD Go whilst holding down the 'Page Right' button. Don't worry about the grey screen. 

Make sure your computer is not running ANY background music streaming crap like Spotify. Make sure your USB cable is in good nick.

Plug the POD Go to your computer.

Start Line 6 Updater in Offline Mode'.

Select POD Go, select 'Update from file' and install the firmware that you downloaded.

When that installs successfully, close the updater, Switch off the POD Go and do the 'Factory reset' startup procedure.

Plug the POD Go in, start up POD Go Edit.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.

The update will take about half an hour.

HX 1 and HX 2.

Take a pot of white paint and paint a '1' on one of them and a '2' on the other.