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I've recently bought both a TBP12 transmitter and a G30 receiver. Both are set to RF1. When they are both set to the same channel, the receiver shows full red bar (indicating a lot of interference). This goes away when they are both on different channels, or the transmitter is turned off. This suggests to me that the receiver is recognising my transmitter as interference. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or a fix for this? Thanks
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If you're having charging issues, please make sure you seat the transmitter completely into the receiver, otherwise the transmitter will not charge. For more details, see this article: Relay G10 FAQ We have designed the G10 transmitter to fit into almost any guitar. However, we anticipate that there will be some rare cases where the transmitter does not fit into a given guitar. If the G10 transmitter is inserted into your guitar and the transmitter's actuator pin is not engaged, the transmitter will not turn on, and the LED on the transmitter will not light up. In some rare cases, the guitar’s active electronics are wired with inverse polarity. In this scenario, the transmitter's electronics can go into a protection mode that keeps the system from being functional. This is evidenced by no output from the G10, even though the transmitter's light is on. We have found that a workaround to both of these issues is to use a mono-to-mono (TS-TS) Male to Female adaptor. More details and a troubleshooting procedure can be found at http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/relay-g10-guitar-compatibility-fitelectronics-r817. If these issues affect you, we encourage you to post the following information so that we can better understand the scope of the issue and the effectiveness of the solution: Guitar manufacturer Guitar model Does it fit and turn on? Do you hear audio? Does the adaptor solution resolve the issue?
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I’m not sure if this is a software or hardware problem but now it’s really driving me crazy. Since acquiring my Helix at the end of November 2015, I have been using it at the heart of of my studio set up, effectively replacing my old POD HD500 and Focusrite Saffire Firewire interface recording system. Essentially the Helix is connected via USB to my 6 month old, 3.3GHz iMac Retina 5K (with 32GB of RAM installed). From new the Helix has had every update done, up to the latest firmware v1.06.5 on the release date16th Feb and the Mac is now OS X El Capitan 10.11.14 (installed 28th March, a while after problems started). My near field powered monitors are cabled to the Helix 1/4†out sockets with gold plated jack plugs and my Variax then hooks up on the dedicated input. In addition my, very old (if it’s good enough for Brian Eno then it’s good enough for me), RolandED PC-180 MIDI keyboard controller which uses the old school DIN plug to input MIDI data to the various software synths available in GarageBand or whatever, goes to “MIDI in†on the rear of the Helix. I have to say that the swap over was quick and painless (i.e. no drivers etc.). Everything simply worked perfectly normally, as it should, until about 2 weeks back (early March) when things started to get very weird. Any audio from iTunes or via the internet seems to function normally. It’s when I playback a GarageBand/Logic X track, it will start out O.K., and then after very short while (less than a couple of minutes) the audio degrades to the point where it sounds like it is running through a bit crusher effect, spluttering and popping until it ultimately fades into silence. This then becomes a system wide problem, screwing any and all up audio coming from any other source, iTunes, YouTube etc. The only way to clear the bug is by switching back and forth to the iMac onboard audio, except on returning to your favourite DAW it happens again, and again, and again. Apart from the audio output being screwed, the MIDI has also ceased to work properly. Any pre-recorded MIDI played back O.K. until the audio channels start to go flakey. Using the PC-180 keyboard I can get soft synths to trigger intermittently on single notes in GBand, but in Logic - not a sound, nada, zip, zilch, zero. It’s totally bizarre, because nothing has really changed - once the recording system had been set up, it was, fire and forget, nothing else required. It just worked! O.K. To try and figure this out I wanted to go through everything in the chain. First hurdle - cannot test the Retina iMac and FocusRite because the interface is FireWire400 into the module and the Mac is Thunderbolt to FW800 crossover. ARRGH! Right! I decided to connect everything up to the old iMac, how it had been pre Helix days. So I have the Focusrite patched to the MIDI keyboard on DIN, that sends/receives audio and MIDI via FireWire and outputs audio to the monitors. Yep - that works just fine, no stuttering, soft synths respond to slow swelling chords and fast single note sequences. So, now I use Helix as the hub, in the way listed above except this time it’s the old Mac running GarageBand. Well, I think you can guess what happens - correct we are back with the spluttering, stuttering, crackling popping and fading audio and flakey MIDI. Now don’t get me wrong but, when it comes to this hi tech MIDI sort of stuff, friends and associates usually ask me to fix it for them (hence the handle “data commandoâ€). I’ve been using computers and MIDI for over 30 years, in 1984 I owned an early Roland JX3P - the first synth with MIDI - which was hooked up to a Yamaha CX5M II MSX Computer System, and later to an Atari 1040ST (1986) running Sternberg’s Pro24 Sequencer (early version of Cubase). I still have a collection of rack mounted vintage synth/sample,FX modules e.g., Roland U110 and D110, Yamaha TX81Z and SPX90, Kawai K3M and K1M plus an AKAI S950 and XE8. Oh yeah, there is a Roland GR33, BOSS GT6, PODXT Live and a HD500 along the back wall, and a Korg digital drum machine in a box somewhere in here. Please note: on the iMac I have done all the usual “fix it†stuff - repair permissions, reset SMC and zapped the PRAM/NVRAM. There must be someone out here in Helix land who can maybe give me a clue has to WTF is happening - please help! And while I’m at it - why does Line 6 and the Helix state audio sample rates of 44.1, 48, 88.2 and 96KHz. On the Mac only 48 can be selected - surely some mistake? See attached png. At the moment this whole shebang is totally FUBAR!
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Is there any way to change the recording gain? Adjusting the setting within my DAW doesnt seem to help much, if at all, and I cant play my guitar without turning it down nearly all the way. Does anyone else have this problem, and has anyone found a fix for it?
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hi i.thailand Problem!! Transmitter or TBP 12 Dropout!! i change batteries many times LED orange bright it's soft Battery LED RED Audio LED RED and Flashing on Audio LED Who help me please? what's happen Thankyou line id : tonigtl FB /eakkawish Email : toni.gtl@hotmail.com
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Hi, I'll try and explain my problem but bear with me, I'm not sure of all the technical terms! My set up - PC, 64 bit, running Win 7 Home. Cubase Elements 6. I'm using two DAWs - a Guitar Port and a ZOOM R24. Both have the right drivers and function without issue. The problem is, I've tried to install POD FARM 2 to use their amp models. This worked fine on my original set up but a few months ago I installed a solid state hard drive, reinstalled everything, authorised Cubase and POD FARM, installed it into the VST Plugin library - and this is where it gets confusing. I started with the free models of pod farm - no problems. I reauthorise my PC to run the entire software package - I get all the models and tones back, but now when I activate pod farm as an insert, it comes up, the interface is there - but no audio signal runs through it. I've tried both DAWs, I've tried resetting and reimporting the files using Cubase's plug in manager, which says that the insert is there and active.. I'm out of ideas now. I should mention that the audio signals play fine, and I can use the native Cubase inserts without a problem, but the Line 6 stuff is far better. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Hi, I've started playing my Firehawk buy connecting it to my notebook using a USB connection, the audio quality is awesome (better than playing through my amp), but I experience quite a lot of latency while playing, I'd like to known if anyone has a fix for this, because it's quite frustrating when playing to a backing track or metronome.
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My Set Up: I use the ux2 and pod farm to pick up my mic (audio technica at2035) for talking with my friends or whatever else I would need a microphone for. I run it through pod farm so it has a much cleaner sound. When I updated to windows 10 I uninstalled all of my line 6/ pod farm stuff and recently upgraded to the windows 10 version. All drivers are up to date. I have my mic plugged into the first input with the phantom power on. My headset is not connected through my UX2 as I don't need to hear what I sound like. The dials on the UX2 do move when I talk into the mic. Issue: It seems my mic is being picked up in Pod Farm as I can see the audio indicators at the top moving and registering audio. However, inside my sounds and recording devices, there is absolutely no indication that my mic is registering. How do I get my computer to pick up my mic?
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I am using Pod HD500x and Audio Technica M50x headphones. If I connect my headphones directly to the Pod HD 500, the sound I get is amazing. However, when I use the Pod for recording with USB and listen to the sound of he monitor of DAW with PodHd500X being the output, it is not that great and the quality drops a lot. How can I get the sound of Pod HD 500 (the one I get directly from headphones) into my recording? I can't seem to prevent the quality from dropping.
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Currently I have PodHd500X, Steinberg UR22 (audio interface) and Garageband. For recording, should I directly use the USB from POD into the computer? Or should I plug the output of the Pod to the input of UR22? Which method will give me better recording quality? If I use the UR22, is it better to use the balanced (XLR) output of the Pod or the unbalanced output? I tried messing around with both the methods but can't seem to distinguish much in quality. Your suggestion will be highly appreciated.
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Hey, I have a Line 6 POD UX2 and I have all the drivers updated and everything is updated (Line 6 Monkey, Pod Farm 2.5, etc) and I have the AT2035 connected to the Line 6 POD UX2 with Phantom Power ON but its still not working :( Please help, I'm on a Mac D: Thanks -Zack
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Hi everyone, I just purchased an HD500X and I'm looking for some insight on a recording setup. I have two Mackie CR3 reference monitors and a Scarlett Solo audio interface. Currently, the Scarlett is connected via USB to the MacBook and the monitors are connected to the LR outputs on the back of the Scarlett. My question is, would a setup as follows work: Guitar into POD, POD output into Scarlett input, Scarlett for the monitors / USB to the MacBook. My idea is to record using the POD while having the reference monitors as my speakers. Can the monitors be plugged right into the POD so I can use the POD as the full interface, or should I use the Scarlett as the interface for everything? Hope this makes sense; it's my first time working with a live POD. Thanks!
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Hello I hope someone can help me because I'm beginning to feel myself a stupid :) I need to connect my electric guitar to PC as flexibly as possible. This is my "configuration" Electric Guitar - > BEHRINGER with 12AX7 preamp - > sound card line in* - > Guitar Rig 5 - > Speakers * Creative Sound Blaster X - Fi , Audio Creation Mode ( ASIO2 ) I make this assumption because I would like to eliminate the preamp, too much hiss, hum and noise, and also " the Native Instruments Guitar Rig 5" software with a multieffects with presets "ready to use" as Line6 "tones from the cloud". But just one important function I need..... Currently by the software of my logitech webcam I can set "what-U-hear" as source for audio recording instead Integrated microphone and so recording video and audio simultaneously while I'm playng guitar through the Guitar Rig 5 Software. That's my greatest and only music aspiration. Just recording video and audio simultaneously. thanks for the help that you'll give to me :)
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Okay l recently purchased a Behringer q802 with a Behringer xm8500. I downloaded pod farm just to see if it works with the mixer.{Please note I have not purchase a pod farm license so it is running in trial mode} So plugged in the mixer and the program picked it and selected it as the hardware I was using . Then I plugged in my headphones into the slot on the mixer and I noticed that I could hear my voice but none of the effects I had selected had been applied. So I hit the button to phones/CTRL AM, and the effects had been applied and it sounded fantastic. My issue is I can record sound though any software even audacity but none of effects from pod farm are ever applied .So could anyone help me figure out what I am doing wrong ? Mind you I am extremely new to this type of thing so forgive me if this is a stupid question. The audio mixer http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHQ802USB
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Hi there Apologies for this very simple, but I am just starting out with this stuff!! I have a guitar, a windows laptop, a POD HD500X. I would like to record a solo over a backing track that I have on mp3 and I have no idea which software I need to do this. I have worked out how to USB the guitar signal from my POD into the laptop so that works, but I dont know how to do the actual recording and layering of any tracks, etc. I tried some software called Stagelight, but it just stopped working so does anyone know anything else I can try? I am a massive beginner so simplicity is key for me!! Many Thanks to anyone who can help. Phil
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I have a question about the audio over USB functionality of the HD500X. I use a audio interface when I'm recording and use plug ins, and I use the HD500X for live work. The other day I was experimenting with using the HD500X as an audio interface and incorporating Ableton Live into my live rig. Since then whenever I plug the USB into my laptop it mutes the analog outs of the HD500X and audio is only passed through USB. I don't remember changing anything specifically to make this happen, and I'm not sure how to undo it. I don't mind being able to choose whether audio gets passed via USB or analog outs when connected, I just can't figure out how to change it :) I haven't messed with it much since this happened, and I haven't tried re installing the driver yet. Any suggestions?
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I just spent almost a month troubleshooting my problem with recording from my POD UX2 onto my hard drive. My problem was that the recording sounded nothing like what was coming out of the monitors -- the monitors were nice and crisp and heavy and sounded good enough to be presentable, but the recording kep coming out fuzzy, muted, tinny, and overall just total lollipop in general. So here's how I got around this issue. 1. I got some advice to record only the DRY INPUT from POD Farm. To do this, you have to go to your mixer on the standalone software (open it on its own on your computer) and set it to record dry input only. 2. use your DAW to IMPORT POD Farm so that you can run it INSIDE the DAW itself. What this means is that you'll be recording a plain signal with no amps or effects, then ADDING the effect on top of that plain signal. Don't worry -- you can still MONITOR how it will sound by keeping the standalone software open. If you're like me and you're too stupid to figure this out on your own, you usually have to find something in an effects or preferences menu in your DAW or a menu item called "plug-in manager" or something else with the word "plug-in" in it. That will lead you to a window where you can go to your C drive, find your Program Files folder, and open the line6 folder inside that and import all the effects in there into your DAW. I had to have someone hold my hand through that. There is just too much to understand about this stuff. 3. Don't use lollipop software. I tried using POD Farm running inside of a few programs before I tried Adobe Audition, and that was the first one to actually sound good. In Cakewalk Music Creator LE5 and the Reason software that came packaged with my POD, the POD effects always turned my signal to mud. In Audition, it's nice and clean and it actually sounds good. I can't recommend anything other than Audition for this since I haven't tried anything else. So, there you have it. If you are having a hard time getting your POD UX2 to not sound like your guitar is plugged into a rusty old car muffler, try recording a dry signal into good software and then adding the effects you want after the recording is done.
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Wireless Audio: Remote Antenna Placement
line6jonb posted a article in General XD-V/Relay Information
Deutsche Version. Version française. Preparing the Room: Remote Antennas This guide outlines the steps involved in preparing the room so that you and your customers get the full performance benefits of Line 6 digital wireless systems. In order to maintain optimal antenna coverage and the best possible line of sight, it is sometimes necessary to mount the antennas remotely from the receiver chassis. Line 6 offers two remote antenna options, P180 directional and P360 omni-directional. Both the P180 and P360 have built-in amplifiers and are switchable for +3dB, +12dB or +23dB of gain, which correspond to approximately 16', 65' and 124' makeup gains for LM-195 cable. Greater cable distances can also be achieved with low loss cable such as LMR-400 (6.8dB per 100 feet) or 9913 (7.7dB per 100 feet). Directional antennas are recommended for precision reception of one or more transmitters on a stage. Omni antennas are recommended for general reception of transmitters in a wider space such as audience mics. ANTENNA ORIENTATION During setup, it is best to P180 directional antennas on boom mic stands angle the paddles down toward the performer and the area that the performer tends to move around in. Try to keep the antennas reasonably close together and overlap their coverage patterns as much as possible for redundancy and also to take advantage of the system’s time and space diversity, but they must be at least 5 inches apart. The following sections outline typical deployment examples. INSTRUMENT TRANSMITTER COVERAGE To cover a single transmitter used by a guitar player, the two remote antennas should be located at the edge of the stage as close to the performer as possible, pointed downward toward the guitar player’s bodypack, and angled slightly outward from each other in order to cover other parts of the stage that the performer may use. Above is a side view of the mounted remote antennas pointed toward the guitar player. Below is a stage view that shows the orientation of the remote antennas to the performer. MICROPHONE TRANSMITTER COVERAGE To cover a single microphone transmitter used by the lead vocalist, the two remote antennas could be located on either side of the drum set, pointed downward toward the singer’s microphone, and angled slightly inward in order to cover the main singer position as well as the other parts of the stage that the performer may use. MULTIPLE PERFORMER COVERAGE Use remote antennas together with the XD-AD8 antenna distribution system to cover multiple performers. The two remote antennas could be located on either side of the stage pointed toward the performers. The above illustrations are simply to offer general recommendations. In all cases it is recommended to walk your intended coverage area and check performance. Small adjustments can yield big improvements. Remember, antenna patterns should be selected with the thought of including or rejecting pickup of a selected area. Antenna Height and Angle Your remote antennas should be placed at least three feet above the floor in order to minimize RF reflections, and ideally the antennas should be raised just over the heads of your audience, but not too high overhead or up near the ceiling. Antennas placed too high up tend to pick up more undesired signals while increasing the distance from the performers you are trying to cover. Proper antenna height will maximize the range of your wireless system. The overall goal is to place the antennas as close to the performers as possible while also being as far away from any interference sources as you can. For example: if there is a WiFi router mounted to a wall or ceiling in the same room as the performance space, point the directional antenna away from the WiFi router and toward the performer. Antenna Distribution System Line 6 also offers the XD-AD8 antenna distribution system. The system allows multiple wireless receivers to share the same pair of antennas, giving greater flexibility in the configuration of multi-wireless installations. With rack-mounted wireless systems, setup is easier and the wiring connections are uncluttered, with the added convenience of powering the receivers from the AD8. L’installation des antennes Que vous organisiez une installation permanente, un événement ou une tournée. Vous devez installer vos antennes correctement pour assurer que systèmes sans fil performent parfaitement. Ce manuel décrit les étapes nécessaires pour recevoir le meilleur résultat des appareils Line 6 possible pour vous et votre client. Antennes à distance Pour avoir une couverture antenne optimale et une meilleure ligne de mire, parfois, c’est nécessaire d’utiliser des antennes à distance. On place des antennes à distance du récepteur. Line 6 offre deux options ici : L’antenne P180 directionnelle et P360 omnidirectionnelle. L’un et l’autre on des amplificateurs intégré qui sont changeable de +3dB, +12dB ou +23dB que correspond à 5m, 20m et 38m de câble LM-195. Si vous avez besoin des plus grandes distances, vous avez besoin du câble faible perte comme LMR-400 (6.8dB par 30m) ou 9913 (7.7dB par 30m). Nous recommandons les antennes directionnelles pour une réception précise d’un seul ou plusieurs émetteurs sur scène. Nous recommandons les antennes omnidirectionnelles pour une réception générale des émetteurs dans un espace plus large. Orientation de l’antenne Pendant la configuration, il est préférable de visser une P180 sur un pied de micro. Oriente l’antenne vers le bas vers l’interprète et la région dans laquelle l’interprète se bouge. Essayez de garder les antennes rapprochés et essayez de chevaucher la couverture des antennes pour assurer la redondance. Les systèmes doivent avoir d'au moins 13cm de distance. Les exemples suivants montrent des déploiements typiques. Couverture d’émetteur Pour un joueur de guitare placez deux antennes à distance au niveau du bord de la scène le plus près de l'artiste possible. Orienté vers le bas et vers le body pack de l’artiste aussi un peut vers l’extérieur pour couvre autres parties de la scène que l'artiste pourrait utiliser. Antennes à distance fixés et orienté vers l’interprète. Et le vue de la scène : Couverture de l’émetteur de microphone : Pour couvre un seul émetteur microphone utilisé par le chanteur, vous pouvez mettre les deux antennes à distance en position par exemple de chaque côté de l’ensemble de batterie. Orienté vers le bas vers le microphone du chanteur et incliné vers l’intérieur pour couvre la position du chanteur mais aussi les autres parties de la scène que l'artiste pourra utiliser. Couverture pour plusieurs artistes : Utilisez des antennes à distance avec le système distribution XD-AD8 pour couvre plusieurs artistes. Les deux antennes peuvent se trouver de chaque côté sur scène orienté vers les artistes. Les illustrations ci-dessus sont des recommandations générales. Dans tous les cas, c’est recommandé de testé tous la région de couverture pour assurer que vous avez un signal partout. Des ajustements mineurs peuvent produire des résultats grands. Sélectez un modèle de couverture des antennes pour les artistes d’être capable de bouger librement. Hauteur et angle de l’antenne : Placez vos antennes à distance au moins 1 mètre au-dessus du sol afin de réduire les réflexions RF. Les antennes doivent être soulevées un peu au-dessus des têtes de l’auditoire mais pas trop élevé près du plafond. Antennes placés trop élevés sont trop loin de l’artiste et ramassent des signaux non désirés. Une hauteur propre maximise la gamme de votre système sans fil. Essayez de placer les antennes aussi proche à l’artiste que possible mais aussi loin que possible des interférences. Par exemple, s'il existe un routeur WiFi monté sur un mur ou au plafond dans la même chambre que l'espace de représentation. Orientez l’antenne directionnelle à partir du routeur WiFi et vers l’artiste. Système de distribution d’antenne: Line 6 offre le système de distribution d’antenne XD-AD8. Le système permet à plusieurs récepteurs sans fil pour partager la même paire d'antennes que vous offre une grande flexibilité pour configurer des installations sans fils multiples. Avec un système sans fil monté en rack, l’installation est facile et les connections de câblages sont épurés. En outre, vous pouvez faire fonctionner les récepteurs à partir de l’AD8. Vorbereitung des Raums: Remote-Antennen Diese Anleitung wird Ihnen Schritt für Schritt zeigen wie Sie den Raum so vorbereiten können, dass Sie eine best-mögliche Leistung aus Ihren digitalen und kabellosen Line 6 Geräten bekommen können. Um den Raum optmal abzudecken und eine Sichtlinie zwischen Antenne und Transmitter zu haben müssen oftmals Antennen an anderen Position aufgestellt werden als die des Empfängers. Line 6 bietet hier zwei verschiedene Antennen, die P180 gerichtete Antenne und die P360 Rundstrahlantenne. Sowohl die P180 als auch die P360 haben eingebaute Signalverstärker welche auf +3dB, +12dB und +23dB eingestellt werden können. Diese entsprechen einer zusätzlichen Kabellänge von 5m, 20m und 38m LM-195 Kabel. Für größere Kabeldistanzen brauchen Sie Spezialkabel mit geringem Verlust wie das LMR-400 (6.8dB auf 30m) oder das 9913 (7.7dB auf 30m). Ausgerichtete Antennen empfehlen wir für einen präzisen Empfang für einen oder mehr Transmitter. Rundstrahlantennen empfehlen wir für allegemeinen Empfang auf größerem Raum wie z.B. Publikumsmikrofone. Die Antennenausrichtung: Während der Aufstellung ist es oft am Besten die P180 ausgerichteten Antennen auf Mikrofonstative mit Galgen aufzusetzen und die Antennen dann nach unten in Richtung Künstler zu winkeln. Versuchen Sie außerdem die Antennen relativ nah nebeneinander stehen zu haben damit die Abdeckungen sch überschneiden. Die Antennen sollten jedoch mindestens 13cm voneinander entfernt sein. Die folgenden Kapitel schildern typische Einsatzbeispiele: Instrument Transmitter Abdeckung: Um einen eizelnen Transmitter, der von einem Gitarrenspieler verwendet wird abzudecken sollten beide Remote-Antennen an der Kante der Bühne aufgestellt werden, so nah wie möglich am Gitarrenspieler. Die Antennen sollten in Richtung des Bodypacks gerichtet und leicht nach außen gedreht sein damit die Antennen auch Teile der Bühne abdecken, in den der Spieler bewegen könnte. Oberhalb befindet sich eine Seitenansicht der Remote-Antennen und unterhalb eine Bühne auf der man die Orientierung der Remote-Antennen erkennen kann. Mikrofon Transmitter Abdeckung: Um einen einzelnen Mikrofon-Transmitter eines Sängers abzudecken können sich die beiden Antennen auf einer Seite des Schlagzeuges befinden. Die Antennen müssen dann nach unten in Richtung des Mikrofons und leicht nach innen gerichtet werden um so den Bereich abzudecken in dem sich der Sänger bewegt. Antennenabdeckung für mehrere Künstler: Nutzen Sie dazu die Remote-Antennen sowie das XD-AD8 System. Beiden Antennen könnten sich in diesem Falle jeweils links und rechts an der Kante der Bühne befinden und in Richtung Künstler gedreht sein. Die obrigen Illustrationen sind Vorschläge. In allen Fällen ist es wichtig die Bühne abzulaufen und zu überprüfen ob die Künstler überall Empfang haben. Kleine Änderungen können hier großes bewirken. Die Abdeckung der Antennen können Sie hier anhand der Ausrichtung selbst bestimmen. Antennenhöhe und –Winkel Ihre Remote-Antennen sollten Sie mindestens einen Meter über dem Boden positionieren um RF Reflektionen zu minmieren und idealerweise sollten die Antennen über den Köpfen des Publikums plaziert werden jedoch nicht zu hoch oder nah an der Decke. Antennen, die zu hoch plaziert sind nehmen oftmals mehr unerwünschte Signale auf. Die korrekto Höhe der Antenne wird die Reichweite Ihres kabellosen Systems maximieren. Das Hauptziel ist es die Antennen so nah wie möglich beim Künstler und gleichzeitig weit weg von Interferenzen aufzustellen. So kann zum Beispiel ein WLAN Router, der an der Decke des Raumes installiert ist das Signal stören. Richten Sie in diesem Fall die Antenne auf den Künstler und nicht in die Richtung des Routers. Antennenverteilersystem Line 6 bietet außerdem das XD-AD8 Antennenverteilersystem an. Das System es mehreren Empfängern das selbe Paar Antennen zu benutzen, welches Ihnen mehr Flexibilität für Ihre Aufstellungen mit mehreren Empfängern bietet. Mit Rack-Wireless Systemen ist die Einrichtung einfach und nicht überladen. Zusätzlich können Sie die Empfänger vom AD8 aus betreiben. -
I just purchased a POD HD 500 and I am learning to use the edit software on my MacBook. However, I can't hear anything through the computer's speakers. What do I need to do to fix that problem?
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Hi. I am currently using a Audio-Technica AT2035 running through a UX2 audio interface connected to my computer through USB and it picks me up, but I am really low. I tried messing around with the settings in POD Farm 2.0, but it didn't make a difference. I tried also to change the settings in the windows sound control panel by changing the microphone volume. Some people suggested checking the microphone boost check box, but when I do, there is no difference. There isn't even a slider to change how much it boosts. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. If you would like to know just how low I am, check out this youtube video I made: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGEhOfaHLSI
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This seems like a simple problem, but I haven't found any sufficient answers through my two hours of scouring the internet! Needless to say, it's driving me a little crazy. It was working just fine less than 24 hours ago! There is no sound whatsoever coming out of my speakers or headphones (each plugged in to the appropriate ports). Monkey is all updated; green checks everywhere. Output knob and phones knob are at maximum. Input/Output in Mac preferences is set for UX2. I've tried switching out usb cables and trying different ports. Tested headphones and speakers on other devices, they work. The only thing that changed was that I pulled out the usb cable and put it into a usb hub for a moment, then took it out and put it right back into the mac directly (I forgot, no hub with the UX2). Right after that, it stopped working correctly. Also, when I try to use logic pro X and gearbox, it doesn't register any sound coming from the mic, and when I try to play back something I recorded just a few days ago using the exact same settings, I get this message: Error while trying to synchronize Audio and MIDI Sample Rate 23482 recognized. Check conflict between Logic Pro X and external device. I use a mac with OSX 10.9.1, fully updated. The UX2 has power, the meters are at min and don't move, and the clip lights seem to be stuck on to orange.