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Hi everyone, I would like to connect 2 Boss WL-20 wireless system to Helix. The first will go into the guitar input and the second into the aux or return input. The Boss WL-20 uses a "customized" TRS jack where the signal is mono and the ring (or the sleeve, can't remember) is used to recharge the device: will this be an issue with Helix inputs? I would like to avoid buying two TRS->TS adapters in order to ignore the everything but the tip. Thank you very much in advance.

I'm currently splitting my signal with a boss oc-3 into the helix and I have it set on the range setting where it only picks up the lower notes, I would like to switch over completely to the helix. Is there any ways to achieve this same effect?

Hi all, I have been using the HX Stomp for a while now but I'm new to the forum game. I'm wondering if there is an octave effect i'm overlooking that has a variable range filter like the Boss OC-3. For those of you unfamiliar with this, it simply allows you to set the frequency range you wish to be effected with the octave down. This allows you to play bass lines while you comp and not have your entire chord getting altered. Is there anything like this in the helix world? Or could we assuming this will be introduced in a coming update? Alternatively, Is there anywhere we can suggest this to Line6? Thanks in advance! :)

I have hxstomp and es-8 from boss to controll snapshot and other pedals. This problem happens.↓↓ ・Send midi message from es-8 to hxstomp to change snapshot1→2 or 2→3 etc... Usually hxstomp responses it, but sometimes does not. Do you think why this problem happen? If you have same issues, please help me.

I thought I would add this to the forums after I had lurked about and gathered info from other people modding cry babys etc. I was fortunate enough to pick up a Boss FV-30 cheap and wanted to use it as a Helix pedal. Looking on the forums, there seemed to be a lot of issues with 0-100-0 sweeps. The wiring diagrams on the forum for a Line 6 pedal made it look like a pretty simple fix and I have a soldering iron so thought I'd give it a go. I wanted to make it so anything I did was completely reversible to factory in case it didn't work out. The below should work on the EV-30 too. Tools needed Philips Head Number 1 (PH1) 10mm, 11mm, 12mm wrench Side Cutters Soldering Iron Materials needed 20K 16mm Linear Rotary Potentiometer D Slot head $3 Hook Up Wire 1/4 Inch Mono Jack $3 If wanted - Rubber gromets or Pan Head machine screw to fill in and blank outlets not used Time About an hour Step One Remove the six screws on the base. They're pretty tight so make sure you use a lot of downward pressure on the screwdriver to make sure you don't strip the heads. Step Two The FV-30 and EV-30 use a cam mechanism to turn the pot. It only rotates around 210 degrees and this is why I used a 20k pot to get close to the 10K needed for the Helix. As you'll see at the end I only got just under 7K, but it works fine. Loosen the nut holding the pot to the cam mechanism frame. Then remove the two screws holding it to the pedal. Again, they're tight so make sure you don't strip the heads. Step Three Loosen the nuts around the Input and Output Jacks. Take them off and slide the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) back. Step 4 You should now be able to remove the entire cam mechanism. It slides off the pin attached to the pedal plate leaving two black plastic parts attached to the frame and pot. With rotation and a bit of fiddling, you should be able to disengage the two parts. Try to remember how you did it, so you can reverse it after separating. Step 5 Gently pull off the U shaped cam from the pot. You need to line the parts up so there is room to pull off the cam. From memory, the arm was at 90 degrees to the frame. Mine was tight but able to be done by hand, no tools. If you're having trouble, a flathead screwdriver between the notch on the pot and the cam may help, but be careful not to break the plastic. Remove the pot and store the PCB somewhere in case you want to go back to the factory pedal. Step 6 Here's where it got hard and annoying. The pot I got was slightly larger in diameter than the factory one. The flat also wasn't deep enough. There aren't many pots readily available, so I spend time with a file to get it to the right size. On my pot, I also had to extend the pot notch further towards the pot threads as the cam sat too proud to rotate and not hit the other plastic arm. If I had a 3D printer, I think I would have spent the time to re-engineer and print a new part to fit the pot. Find a friend with one or if you're like me and don't have friends (with 3D printers that is), spend the half hour with a metal file, slowly test fitting often to make sure it's a tight fit. If you get into trouble and can't get the cam off the pot, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry it off. Keep any shavings out of the pot. I thought of taping it up but only after the fact. Step 6 Reassemble the pot and use a wrench to ensure the retaining nut is tight. A dot of thread locker (purple to make it easier to remove) might help but don't get any in the pot. Step 7 Soldering. Put the cam in the position it will be in in toe down (fully clockwise from the cams side). If you have a multimeter, bridge two pins with one multimeter clip and put the other clip on the remaining pin. Ensure it reads 0K. Rotate to check it goes to 20K. If you don't have a multimeter, I'm guessing that all pots are wired the same and you can just solder like I have in the pic. No laughing at my poor soldering. Step 8 Solder on the 1/4 inch jack and bolt it through an open outlet. I went with the one that is printed as output. You could use rubber grommets or a pan head machine screw to fill in any left over holes. The jack I had was a tight fit against the corner and you might need to find one that works or mod it a little with a file. Reassemble the cam frame and screw it back into the pedal. Don't forget to hook that pin up again. Replace the base plate. Step 9 Test. I plugged in a TS to TS cable and got the multimeter on the end. Zero at heel down yay! Only 6.69 at Toe down. Boo. was hoping for 10k and now nervous it wouldn't work. Plugged into the Helix. Added a Volume to an empty block and hooray, it works. 0-100 no issues. I was initially a bit worried as I pulled out the jack from the pedal in mid sweep which stuffed up the auto calibration and couldn't get all the way to 100 again. Found out that to reset it, I had to remove the jack at the Helix end then replug at heel down. I only have limited playing experience, so I can't report on how the motion/response feels as opposed to other expression/volume pedals. I did read the cam mechanism results in a not quite linear response. All said though, a great pedal for only 6 extra bucks and able to be returned to factory settings if I ever want to. Hope this can help someone else out it they have one laying around. Boss.mp4

Hello all, I'm looking for help with my setup. I'm not sure if this is a wiring issue or perhaps a hx stomp block chain issue. I just bought a BOSS SY1 synth pedal. I want to isolate the GUITAR (dry) signal from the SYNTH signal. I think I have most of this figured out but there's some things that are baffling me. I'm using 4 things * Guitar * Boss SY1 * L6 HX Stomp v2.92 * FRFR Speaker How its hooked up (all of 4 cables) Guitar output > Boss SY1 input (I want this pedal in the front as it tracks better) Boss SY1 "SEND" > HX Stomp main input L - this is the 100% DRY signal (works regardless if the SY1 is on or off) Boss SY1 "OUTPUT" > HX Stomp Aux In L - this is the 100% SYNTH signal as set by the SY1 direct and effect volume settings HX Stomp block chain - Main Input L > Overdrive block > Amp & CAB block > RETURN L block (from SY1 OUTPUT jack) > Delay block > Reverb block > Main Output (to FRFR speaker) My thinking in this was I can have my normal guitar amp and cab sounds and then to insert the synth sound just before the delay and reverb blocks so everything can use those, using the RETURN blocks mix to adjust how much of dry/synth signal I want. Sometimes 50/50 dry/synth and then sometimes 100% synth. The issue I'm having is this setup works fine but the RETURN L will not use the delay and reverb blocks, despite it being in front of both of them. The amp and cab blocks which are before the RETURN L use the delay and reverb which is baffling me. I can not tell what I'm doing wrong here. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I feel I'm close but obviously missing something here... Much thanks in advance!

Hello, Does anyone of you use a Boss EV30 dual expression pedal with an m5 (or m9/m13, I guess it's the same thing)? It seems that the Roland EV-5 and Boss FV-500 work well, but I can't find any users of the EV30 with it (it seems that it works well for most helix users though). Thanks in advance

Short version: How can I improvise a low pass filter out of the EQ on my HD500 so that I can get only the E and A strings, like we get in the polyphonic mode in the Boss OC-3 pedal? Detailed version: I've been trying to emulate the polyphonic mode found on the Boss OC-3 on my HD500. I'm running two parallel effects lines, with a graphic EQ as a low pass filter on one (to get just the E and A strings) and a hi pass on the other (just to give some presence while trying to retain the natural sound as much as possible). My signal chain on the bass side is the EQ and a bass octaver running into a Flip Top amp (which has the bass boosted and mids, treb and presence turned off). While I've gotten 70% there, I've run into some expected problems, mainly with the way the improvised low pass filter is working (it doesn't completely eliminate the other strings), because of which there is a constant compromise between the levels of the two channels, which either results in 1) the unwanted octaved D,G,B and E strings leaking in (if I want a stronger bass sound), which clashes horribly when I play chords, or 2) a softer bass sound with a trebly, unpleasant characteristic (owing to the EQ settings on the second effect line). Any ideas on how to get around this problem? Any insight would be appreciated. The video I've attached demonstrates the sound I'm aiming at (it's time-stamped)

Hi, Can someone help me to get the same sound as the Boss DS-2 for my HELIX board? I love this pedal but unfortunately it broke down last week.. Now i love to have te same sound in my Helix, so i can import it in deferent presets. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I've been a BOSS user for the past 10 years, mastering every aspect Of the GT MultiFX line. I'm in the process of transitioning to The HD500x to expand and experiment with the LINE6 workflow. I bought one already but it won't arrive until next week. I would like to know if it's possible to attach a dual footswitch. According to the manual, I can plug an expression pedal into the "pedal 2" jack, but I don't need another one besides the built-in EXP. In the past, I used to plug a BOSS FS6 via TRS cable to the "CTL1,2/EXP" jack of the GT8, allowing me to freely program parameters to either of the footswitch buttons (labeled CTL 1 and 2 in the system). The GT8 allowed me to assign modes: latching or unlatching –to operate as on/off for effects– or min/max for specific parameter jumps. I believe the POD allows similar functionalities with the top row switches; nevertheless, I would want to use the BOSS FS6 with the HD500X. Has anyone done this?

Hi Guys, Just wanted to know if there was a good way of connecting a POD HD500 with a RC 300 (or for that matter any external looper) and a DT 25. At the moment I have my JTV 89f going into my POD HD500 then the out from POD going into the instrument in of Boss RC 300 and the Out from Boss going into my DT 25. The problem with this setup is that I cant control the DT 25 from my pod this way. I want to be able to use the looper with the POD and still be able to use the DT amp from the POD patches. Is that possible?

Hello, yesterday i bought an footswitch for my line6 UX2 (Boss FS-5U) which works fine with gearbox, It was automatically detected as "stomp", but i can only use the presets for the stomp (Fuzz Pi, Facial Fuzz, Classic Distortion, Screamer, Sub Octaves and so on). But i want to use my own settings, because there are only 10 presets which are not the bests - is this possible?

hi there, I recently bought a used DT-50 112 combo, and to make it easier to switch between channels picked up a Boss FS-5L foot switch. Tried it out when i got it a few weeks ago, worked fine. Hadn't put the amp on for about two weeks, then tried it tonight and had issues. firstly when I put the TS cable into the foot switch input it would automatically switch from A to B, even when the foot switch itself was not connected. [never B to A though] I even had issues switching it back to A with the front selector switch. - I tried about six different TS cables, none of them worked with the foot switch. - Changed batteries in the Boss, [even though brand new], light would work to indicate it is working, but still no action on the amp. I then turned it off and back on again, holding down the channel select switch on the amp for six seconds. [read about it here somewhere, thought it couldn't hurt]. After this the foot switch input and the Boss would not change the channel, although the switch would. Could the jack input be damaged in some way? and is it an easy fix? other than that the amp is fine, but its an annoyance to not be able to switch channels easily with the new foot switch. Has this happened to anyone else, and what was your solution? Also, if needed, does anyone know the best place in Melbourne, Australia, to fix this type of issue? cheers, Sean

Hi everyone I need some help in regards to connecting stomboxes to my POD HD500. My setup is a Line 6 POD HD500 connected to Line 6 Spider 75 amp. I want to connect stompboxes to my setup, is it possible to combine my stompboxes which is a Boss DD3 Delay, Mega Distortion and a Flanger? Regards Charl