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  1. I saw some older posts talking about various cables for the Line 6 link. I was wondering if there was any newer info on this. I am currently using a cheap Hosa EBU-010 AES/EBU Digital Audio Cable. I don't have any problems with it, but every time I look at how thin it is, I wonder if using something higher end, such as Mogami Gold AES would work better. Anyone try some of the various higher end cables? Thanks.
  2. IS it possible for you to connect the pod hd 500 only on the 'return' and 'out' jacks only, to get only ambient effects from the POD? Only to do not convert from Analog to Digital 4 times the tube amp signal (like the 4 cable method does)? Like this: (FX LOOP set to ON in the POD) guitar -> tube amplifier IN -> tube amplifier SEND -> POD RETURN -> [ ambient effects ] -> POD OUT -> tube amplifier RETURN thank you!
  3. So I came home from work to find that my dog had gone into my studio and chewed my Pod hd500x power supply and the VDI cable for my JTV. I ordered replacements the next day from sweetwater and was pleasantly surprised to find that Line 6 has upgraded the cables jacket that is more like a normal 1/4 inch guitar cable style. It's a great improvement on the plastic jacket on the older version. It doesn't twist up so bad and doesn't hold the memory of being coiled up. Any way good job Line 6 it's nice to see improvement. :D
  4. Is there a special reason the instrument cable is 1 m (3 ft) so long? It's way more than I need and I was wondering if shortening it (snip, snip, re-solder jack and off we go) could somehow impact the units performance? Or am I just being paranoid?
  5. Hey Guys First my gear : Line6 POD xt Pro, Laney Ironheart Irt 60 I want to connect my Podxt with my Amp. So how do i do that ? The POD should be used as a effect processor in Distortion Channel of the Amp But as a clean sound i want to use my POD settings and only use the amp as an poweramp for the xt. So anyone out there who knows what i have to do ?
  6. Hello everybody, For Xmas, i bought a new cable called USB to Midi (USB2MIDI) with 1 usb male, a small device (converting usb to midi) and 2 midi plug (IN and OUT) like this one : LogiLink Cable USB MIDIhttp://www.amazon.fr/LogiLink-C%C3%A2ble-USB-MIDI-pour/dp/B000XRI3CC and this cable works fine with some software like Reaper, Guitar Pro or MIDI-OX : i can record commands from pod 2.0 with Reaper for instance, or send commands BUT i can't open Line 6 Edit to edit/save/import/export my own effects 1 - I can see other posts with same kind of problem : can't connect to line 6 Edit with LogiLink cable --> M-Audio recommended ok fine but i don't really want to buy another cable 2 - I have already tested my cable with MIDI-OX : seem to work fine : input & output are ok, with Reaper too : i can record when i change something on the pod, then, i can receive what i record previously 3 - My old computer with MIDI /GAME port and old midi cables (no USB) works fine with my POD 2.0, so the pod 2.0 is ok 4 - I have the latest version of Line 6 Edit & Java up to date too... I have also tried some older version of Line 6 Edit just in case ... 5 - Help me please :-) i can see the talented people here ! 6 - I'm french but i can understand English if it's simple :-)
  7. I own an old ver 2.0 POD and am looking to buy a used fb4 footboard. There is no cable with it - is this just a standard rj45 cable, or is there a special Line 6 cable?
  8. I use POD hd Pro and i'm about to buy some new gear so i will be running > line 6 shortboard 2 > hd pro > rocktron velocity 300 > cab forgive my dumbness but what kind of cables are best for this and where would they go i.e. instrument and speaker cables also if i was to add a power conditioner how would i hook that up and again what type of cable. and last but not least if you use the live method above is it still better to keep hd pro on studio setting? cheers guys
  9. Hola, tengo un POD HD 400 y perdí el eliminador, o adaptador de corriente, he pensado, en contactar el distribuidor de mi país (México) y adquirir el original, por un precio elevado, y bastante lejos, o comprar alguno con las mismas características. Mi duda es: ¿Hay riesgo de que se queme el POD? ¿Qué recomendación me harían?
  10. I am currently using the 4 cable method with my M13 into a JVM 215C. I would like to introduce a external analog octo-fuzz pedal, an analog bit commander (synth thing) and a Jamman solo for sampling. I want to put the octo-fuzz and bit commander between the first and second bank, and the Jamman through the effects loop at the end of the chain. The reason I do not want to simply plug my guitar into the analog pedals and have them first in the chain is because I want to have the first bank for a wah, a compressor, and a pitch shift. (Pitch shift through front of amp or loop??) Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Loving the M13!!
  11. edit: no one replied so I'd rather change the message so no one stumbles upon this thread looking for an answer to a similar problem. thanks for the help line 6 forums
  12. I've been pulling my hair out for the last few weeks because I thought the Effects Loop Return input jack of my amp was broken. When I have my HD500 set to Combo Power Amp mode and plug the L/Mono output into the effects return, it sounded just horrible.... very thin and distant. Hard to explain, but I tried everything... felt like I was playing through a 5W amp. Literally took my entire amp apart to look at the soldering on the jack ! So this morning, I had an epiphany that it might be due to the effects return input on the amp being stereo (meaning a TRS cable, instead of a regular instrument cable). I tried it and sweet baby Jesus it sounds 10,000x better !!! I'm posting this because I'm still not clear if my setup is correct or perhaps I've just arrived at the point of insanity, trying to get this thing working. Here is the setup that gave me horrible sound: HD500 L/Mono Output --> Instrument Cable --> Effects Loop Return Here is the setup that gives me fantastic sound: HD500 L Output --> (cable that merges two TS instrument cables into a single stereo TRS cable) ---> Effects Loop Return HD500 R Output --> I'm using a POD HD500 with a Randall RX100RG2 Combo Amp Please let me know if you have had similar experiences and if this approach is recommended. Thanks !
  13. Is it just me or do other people have trouble with microphonic noise from the powered cable when using the adapter and TRS jack cable to power the Variax? Whenever the cable moves I get a kind of crackly noise. It's not too much of a problem as I use the battery most of the time but the adapter is handy if I forget to recharge the battery. I thought at first I must have a faulty TRS cable so swapped it out for a decent Planet Waves one. But that was just the same. I think the adapter I use came originally with an earlier Variax but it works fine with my JTV-59 apart from the cable noise. Have I been unlucky and need to try another cable or is this always an issue with this set up? Thanks in advance....
  14. hello everybody. could anybody help me with pod xt headphones' out? i'd need to know 3 or more between the following: the tension/voltage (V), the current (A), the impedance (Ohm), the gain (dB) and the power (W) which the headphone signal comes out. i have to improve the headphones audio quality so must decide if to buy a little amplifier (Behringer Micromon MA400) or build a simple passive custom impedance adapter. thanx.
  15. Deutsch Français Please go through the following list before updating your James Tyler Variax guitar to flash memory v1.81 and newer from an earlier version of the flash memory to ensure the update completes successfully: Ensure that the interface you are using to update the JTV guitar with (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) is NOTconnected to the computer through a USB hub. Make sure to connect the interface into a USB port directly into the computer, especially into the back of a desktop. If problems persist, make sure to test all of the USB ports on the computer. Avoid plugging into USB ports found on keyboards, monitors, or laptop docks. [*]When using the Workbench Interface to update or edit the JTV guitar, ensure that a charged battery is in the guitar and a 1/4" TS mono cable is inserted into the guitar's output jack to power on the guitar. [*]Ensure that the Volume knob on the guitar is NOT set to the '0' position as it will put the guitar into Power Save Mode. Make sure that the Volume knob is set higher than 0 when updating or editing the JTV guitar. [*]Please use the VDI Cable that comes with the JTV guitar when updating the flash memory. Avoid using VDI or CAT5 cables longer than 10 ft. in length when updating the James Tyler Variax. [*]During the update, select 'NO' when asked if you would like to keep the presets on the guitar. Use the Workbench software to back up your guitar presets before updating if you would like to keep them. [*]Close out any other applications running on your computer before updating the JTV guitar. Please use the following link for the flash memory update instructions: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions Checkliste für James Tyler Variax Updates: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Schnittstelle, welche Sie zum aktualisieren Ihrer JTV benutzen (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) nicht per USB Hub an Ihren Computer angeschlossen ist. Stecken Sie die Schnittstelle hinten direkt in einen der USB Ports Ihres Computers. Wenn weiterhin Probleme bestehen sollten Sie alle USB Ports ausprobieren. Achtung, vermeiden Sie es, die Schnittstelle in einen USB Port einer Tastatur, eines Monitors oder eines Laptop-Docks zu stecken. [*]Wenn Sie das Workbench Interface benutzen, um Ihre JTV zu bearbeiten oder aktualisieren, stellen Sie sicher, dass die Batterie vollgeladen und ein 6.35mm TS Mono Kabel im Gitarren Ausgangs-Jack eingesteckt ist, um die Gitarre anzuschalten. [*]Der "Volume" Knopf darf nicht auf der "0" Position sein, da die Gitarre ansonsten in den Energiesparmodus geht. Der "Volume" Knopf muss also auf einer anderen Position sein als "0" um die Aktualisierung durchzuführen. [*]Bitte benutzen Sie das VDI Kabel, welches bei der Gitarre mitgeliefert wurde wenn Sie Flash Memory aktualisieren möchten. Benutzen Sie möglichste keine CAT 5 oder VDI Kabel, die länger als 3 Meter sind wenn Sie die James Tyler Variax aktualisieren. [*]Während der Aktualisierung klicken Sie "NO" wenn Sie gefragt werden ob Sie die Presets behalten ("keep presets o nthe guitar") möchten. Sie sollten die Presets, die Sie behalten wollen vor dem Update per Workbench Software sichern. [*]Schließen Sie alle unnötigen Programme bevor Sie die JTV Gitarre aktualisieren. Bitte folgen Sie diesem Link, um Anweisungen zur Aktualisierung des Flash Memory zu erhalten: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions Liste de contrôle des mises à jour James Tyler Variax: Assurez-vous que l'interface pour connecter la guitare JTV à l'ordinateur (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) n'est pas connectée à l'ordinateur via un hub USB. Connectez l'interface directement sur un port USB en arrière de l'ordinateur. Si vous avez des problèmes, essayez tous les ports USB de l'ordinateur. Évitez de brancher sur les ports USB sur les claviers, moniteurs ou stations d'accueil pour ordinateur portable. [*]Si vous utilisez l'interface Workbench pour mettre à jour la guitare, assurez-vous qu'une batterie chargée est dans la guitare et un câble TS mono 6.35m m est branché dans le jack de sortie de la guitare pour l'a llumer. [*]Le bouton "Volume" ne doit pas être sur la position "0" parce que ca met la guitare dans le mode économie d'énergie. Mettez-le sur une autre position que "0". [*]Veuillez utiliser le câble VDI fourni avec la guitare JTV si vous mettez le Flash Memory (firmware de la guitare) à jour. Évitez d'utiliser des câbles CAT5/VDI plus long que 3 mètres pour la mise à jour. [*]Pendant la mise à jour, cliquez sur "NO" pour la question "keep presets on the guitar". Utilisez le logiciel Workbench pour sauvegarder vos presets avant que vous mettez la firmware à jour si vous les voulez garder. [*]Fermez tous les autres programmes inutiles avant que vous mettez la JTV à jour. Utilisez le lien suivant pour les instructions de la mise à jour Flash Memory: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions
  16. Q: What is the XPS Unit? A: The XPS unit is the power supply that powers the Variax instrument via 1/4" TRS cable. The Line 6 XPS box must be powered by a Line 6 PX-2 power supply for correct operation. There are three variations of the XPS: XPS-AB: This units acts as both a Variax power supply and has an A/B footswitch to send the guitar output to either a 1/4" or XLR output. Use a standard XLR (microphone) cable to connect the XPS-AB’s XLR output to feed any balanced input. Use a TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve/Stereo) cable to connect your Variax to the INPUT jack of the XPS-AB, a standard mono instrument cable to connect the 1/4" output of the XPS to any standard amp rig. XPS-Mini: This unit ships with the Variax 300 series, and has an 1/4" input and output. XPS-DI: This unit shipped with the Variax Bass Instruments and had an line/mic level switch, as well as an XLR ground lift option. The XPS-DI uses a standard XLR (microphone) cable to connect the XPS-DI output to feed any balanced input. Use a TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve/Stereo) cable to connect your Variax to the INPUT jack of the XPS-DI, and a standard mono instrument cable to connect the 1/4" output of the XPS-DI to any standard amp rig. Note: This unit is no longer available as the Variax bass has been discontinued. Usage F.A.Q.s Q: Can I use the XPS-AB as a replacement for my XPS-DI? A: Yes, the XPS-AB is the direct replacement for the XPS-DI. Q: Can I use the XPS-mini if I do not have access to the XPS-AB box? A: Yes, the XPS-Mini can be used in place of the XPS-AB box. Be aware that the XPS-mini is the only supported power supply for the Variax 300 series instrument, due to a slight increase in the power requirements for the 300 series. Q: Will the XPS-DI recharge batteries in Variax Instruments? A: No. Q: What type of cable do I need to use to connect the XPS unit to my Variax Instrument? A: You will need to use the supplied 1/4" TRS cable (or equivalent) to connect your XPS box to your Variax instrument to deliver power. Any mono 1/4" cable will work if you are using the internal batteries for power, but the power will be drawn from the batteries rather than from the cable. Q: Can I use the XLR and 1/4" outputs simultaneously? A: No the XLR and 1/4" outputs can only be used separately. Q: Does the Footswitch provide phantom power to another device? A: No, the A/B footswitch for your Variax will not provide phantom power. Q: Can I plug my regular electric instrument into the XPS box? A: Yes, if using a standard mono guitar cable, you can plug your regular electric instrument into the XPS box without damaging your guitar. We do not advise the use of a TRS cable with anything but a Variax because of the power it carries back to the guitar from the XPS box. Also, we do not recommend using an XPS box with active guitars. The combination of voltage potentially feeding back into the guitar, and how the guitar is wired, which can vary, can potentially damage the guitar and/or the XPS box. Q: What is the length of the Variax digital cable? A: The Variax digital cable is 25 feet long. Troubleshooting F.A.Q.s Q: There is no audio signal and I am only seeing a "red" power light on the XPS A/B (DI) when connected to the Variax guitar using a TRS cable? A: If the XPS-AB/DI has the proper power connected (and is connected to the Variax) and is showing a "red" power light, this means that the XPS is not recognizing the Variax and not sending power. If a different TRS 1/4" cable does not resolve the problem, try a different XPS box to see if there is a problem with the XPS box. If a different 1/4" cable and XPS box does not solve the problem, the Variax may have an internal failure that will need to be resolved by an authorized service center. Q: I am getting a "popping" sound when changing between the XLR and 1/4" outputs when connecting to a PA system? A: This situation can happen when the mixer has phantom power applied to the channel that the XPS input. One solution is to turn off the phantom power on that channel, another solution is to put another DI between the XPS and sound board. Some end users with switch to using the different (compatible) Line 6 device. Q: My XPS Box is damaged/lost. How can I get a replacement? A: The XPS box can be special ordered from your favorite Line 6 dealer: Line 6 Dealer Locator
  17. Parts Q: My X2 cable is lost/damaged. Where can I purchase a replacement? Line 6 Store: X2 Replacement Cable Q: I lost/broke an antenna on my X2 wireless receiver. How can I get a replacement? A:The X2 series uses a 900 mhz, ½ wave-BNC antenna. These antenna can be purchased from numerous audio-video or musical instrument retailers. Q: Why is my signal occasionally cutting out? A: Please check to see that your locking cable connector is screwed in tightly to the input jack on the transmitter. If not, this can cause your unit to either not get audio at all or cause the signal to cut in and out. Please see our updated manual on this website for a detailed diagram of the proper connection process. Troubleshooting The XDR4 rackmount receiver has an “RF” LED indicator on the front panel. With all transmitters powered “OFF”, scroll through the 5 channels on the receiver while viewing the “RF” LED. If this LED remains dark, then you can conclude that there is no undesired RF at your current location. If it lights RED, then there is RF on that channel. This typically does not lead to the conclusion that you cannot operate on that channel. It does indicate that there is RF present and that the range might be limited on that channel. “Drop outs” are often the cause of a bad audio connection. This can happen when the input jack is not fastened securely or when the input cable has broken down at the connector. You can visually confirm a solid “digital link” even without an audio input by powering on only one transmitter and receiver and monitor the 4 green “RECEIVER” LEDs on the XDR4 rackmount receiver. As long as one single green LED stays lit, then you have a solid link. I would confidently say that the system is working well if all 4 LEDs stay lit no matter where you go out to at least 100’ with little or no “dancing”. When they start to consistently dance you are approaching the outer edge of the operating range. This test is best performed with two people. Q: Power is on but no signal or there is an intermittent signal with sound cutting out with the XDS95, XDR95 or XDSPlus transmitter A: How far away from each other are the transmitter and receiver? You may simply just need to return to operational range. If the issue persists, you will need to replace the XC1 cable. Q: Power is on but no signal is getting to XDR95, XDS95, or XDSPlus Receiver. A: Remember to set the receiver to the correct mode and to set both the transmitter and receiver to the same channel. If you continue to have issues, replace the XC1 cable. Q: My XDS95 receiver / transmitter shuts down shortly after powering up A: If you are using batteries, try using a new set of batteries. If you are using rechargeable batteries, try a fresh set of alkaline batteries. If these issues persist, the XDS95 needs to be serviced. Q: My transmitter suddenly started producing a distorted broken up signal A: Replacing the XC1 cable would be the first thing to try, but if that does not fix the issue, the transmitter must be serviced for repair. Q: I have a buzzing noise on all channels of my receiver. A: First, make sure that the receiver is getting the proper amount of power from a compatible power supply, especially if the power is being shared with other devices. If you have active electronics on your guitar, make sure that the batteries in the guitar are fresh and power the guitar. If not, replace the batteries. Check your guitar jack to see if it is loose or shorting out and fix the jack as needed. Lastly, please remove/turn off any sources of magnetism (such as a computer monitor) that is close to the transmitter as this could be producing the noise in the signal. Q: I can only go 25 to 30 ft with my XDS95 before it drops out? A: If there is another transmitter on and set to the same channel nearby, then you would need to change the channel on the second transmitter. If there is another source of RF between your transmitter and the receiver, then you would need to move the source of RF. As a last resort, you can open up the back of your receiver and you should see 2 thick black wires soldered onto the antennas. If these wires are not soldered properly, the receiver needs to be serviced for repair. The following is a list of symptoms in which your Digital Wireless device must be serviced for repair: Symptom: I hear a "click" every once in a while when my XDS95 system is on but I am not playing? Symptom: One of the green receiving section lights does not come on even when the XDR95 transmitter is right next to the receiver. Symptom: When I power up my unit, all the lights stay on (Red or Blue) and then I cannot turn the unit off. Symptom: My XDT1/XDT4 transmitter burns up a fresh battery in 1 hour. Symptom: My XDS95 receiver does not power up with a 9v battery but it will power up on a power cord adapter. Symptom: My X2 transmitter does not power up with a 9v battery.
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