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Hi! This is the first pedal with send/return I will buy, and I have some questions if you can help me: - I suppose the send will transport the original guitar signal to apply external effects and then the return can be inserted at any stage. Is this right? - What happens if I use only the return to insert additional audio? Will it replace the full sound? Thanks, Regards.
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I made this list of Patches even though its in the Firehawk App, so I can take notes on what I like, dislike, want to delete, ect, So if you are interested feel free to copy it. It would be nice if someone could make a spreadsheet from it with parameter list options! Bank 1 HD Rhythm Lead The Way American Clean Ambient Delays Bank 2 Wind Cries Mary Msg in a Bottle Heartbreaker Fast Lane Bank 3 Locked Outta Hvn 7 Nation Army Move Like Jagger Tighten Up Bank 4 Refugee Eight Miles High Day Tripper 4 What Its Worth Bank 5 Sober Laid to Rest Hanger 18 Walk Bank 6 4 on 6 Phase Dance Blue Suede Shoes Hello Mary Lou Bank 7 Come As You Are Man IN The Box Black Hole Sun Cherub Rock Bank 8 Lie To Me Need Your Love Couldn’t Stand True Lies Bank 9 Another Brick Own A Lonely Hrt Pull Me Under Killer Queen Bank10 Crazy Train still of Night Mean street Sweet Child Bank 11 Right Next Door Still Got Blues Laundromat Blues Sweet Sixteen Bank 12 Back In Black Iron Man Everlong Jailbreak Bank 13 Streets No Name Hysteria Octave Broken Dreams Freak On A Leash Bank 14 Bomber Uber Treadplate Angel F-Ball Line 6 Insane Bank 15 So What Octaves Purple Haze Solo Bender Go Crazy Fuzz Bank 16 Jazz Clean Blackface Lux-V Blackface Double Class A-30 TB Bank 17 Machine Gun Pedal HarMinE Have A Cigar Auto Wah Bank 18 Gibtone 185 Super O Brkdn Tweed B-Man Divide 9-15 Bank 19 Rock: Rhythm Rock: Clean Rock: Crunch Rock: Solo Bank 20 Metal: Rhythm Metal: Clean Metal: Flange Metal: Solo Bank 21 Indie: Rhythm Indie: Clean Indie: Lead Indie: Solo Bank 22 Blues: Rhythm Blues: Clean Blues: Lead Blues: Rotary Bank 23 Modern: A30 Cln Modern: A30 DDL Modern: A30 Rhythm Modern: A30 Push Bank 24 County: Trem Country: Slap Country: Lead Country: Boost Bank 25 Jazz: Solid State Jazz: Full & Clr Jazz: A30 Gritty Jazz: Dirty Bank 26 Shoegaze Lead Octo Wash Seismilk Synth Sample & Hold Bank 27 DADGDA Kashmir Open E Statesbro Open G Brn Sugar Fortunate Son D Bank 28 Acoustic Rhythm Acoustic Chorus Aco Fingerstyle Acoustic 12 Bank 29 Acoustic Rain Song Aco New Age Banjo Sitar Bank 30 User User User User Bank 31 User User User User Bank 32 User User User User
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As far as I can tell so far, there is no way to backup the entire contents of the Firehawk? I have not connected it yet to PC but I think that is just for recording purposes. Has anyone checked this out? Also I did not realize when I bought my Firehawk, that you can write or "copy" over the factory settings, and once you do that, that particular patch is gone for good unless you do a full factory reset which will likely wipe out any settings of your own in the unit itself. Then, you are left to download one by one all the patches you have saved to "My Tones" Am I correct on all the above??? I would like to know the individual factory patches are available for download just in case I want to reload it. Any help is appreciated!! Also, this is my review of the Firehawk at this point: First, it is a bright brassy sounding unit. It's great for a lot of distortion tones but to me does not appear to be designed for a straight guitar sound like you would use for a straight rhythm or Country Music style leads. Also to me, even a lot of the distortion patches are brassy sounding. That is my conclusion so far after a couple hours of playing with the settings. Consider also this is my opinion in the way that I am connecting the unit. I am only running the mono out directly into my old solid state Peavey Special 130 amp. Running thru a tube amp or sound system may make a big difference but I still think this unit is very bright and digital sounding. I have been trying to find a "warm" tube amp straight sound. The way I was finally successful in getting very close was to start with an unedited "User" patch that you will find at 30.A. Then I added and edited Eq. and compression, delay and reverb, possibly noise gate if you want. Doing this was faster and easier than trying to edit an existing factory patch. I was considering returning the unit until I figured this out because it is just too bright sounding to me. I am still using my old old Digitech RP 10 and I think it sounds better than the new wonderful Firehawk. Just my 5 cents worth, but I still have a mountain of editing to do with the Firehawk. In all fairness, the RP10 was pretty digital sounding also until I eventually tweeked in the right amount of compression and e.q. for my taste, but over the years I have been very satisfied with it. I do think however that the Firehawk is actually worse in that respect. Hard to believe in this advanced stage of electronic evolution we live in. I'm not convinced we have totally overcome the need for tubes! Thanks all!!! Jay
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The overall volume is the Master Volume control. This is controlled by the "big knob" when the LEDs are red (the default state). All of the other volumes happen before this one and it's ultimately how you control the output level while keeping everything relatively balanced by using all of the other controls. This is a global control. The Guitar Volume happens just before the master and is how you balance the guitar level against the Bluetooth streaming audio that is coming into the unit. This is also a global control and is accessed by pressing the big knob until the LEDs are white. The Channel Volume is like a Master for just the amp, and it is stored with the patch. It adjusts the output level without affecting the tone (like the Gain control on the amps would). This is the control you use to level your presets relative to each other. The slightly quirky thing here is that it does live in the amp processing slot, so it happens in the signal chain before the post effects. In v1.1 firmware and later, pressing the big knob until the LEDs are pink acts as a short cut to accessing this control without the app. The Gain on the amp panel is the per-patch parameter that affects the tone of the amp - also referred to as Drive The Volume Pedal is an additional real-time control whose value is not saved with the patch. You can see in the app where it lives in the signal path. The Master control on HD amps is considered a deep edit parameter (like sag, hum, etc.) that is saved with the patch and is exclusive to HD amps. It's the output level of the preamp to the power amp. When you load one of these models, the stored value is right for that amp in the default state and it's usually best to leave it where it is unless you are going for a very specific effect.
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Yesterday, I traded in my pod HD500X for a Firehawk unit. Before anyone calls me crazy, I want to explain why. I usually only play in my house. I play music and jam to it. I practice. Occasionally, I get together with a buddy. I don't own an amp. Part of the fun for me is to design patches that sound like the songs I like to play. Using the HD 500X to edit patches was a pain in the neck. I didn't like to edit patches on the unit, and the HD 500 edit program wasn't really working for me either. If I edited patches on the unit, I was stopping and bending over just to make a tweak. If I edited the patch on the computer, I would have to sit down and I would often get distracted from playing. When I had an X3 live, I created a midi template that would allow me to make patch edits on my iPad. However, when I upgraded to the HD500X, the midi implementation was completely different. So, I realize I've lost some functionality, but gained a lot more in the process. I think it fits my needs better than the HD500X. Your results may vary. Here are a couple of issues that showed up right away: Bluetooth connectivity was kind of flaky at first. The unit would frequently disconnect from my phone or my iPad. This document helps me troubleshoot the connectivity issues. Turning off Bluetooth on my iMac and moving my iPad away from my iMac and my router made a big difference in connectivity. Basically, try to eliminate any sources of interference with the Bluetooth signal. When you initially connect your iPad to the FH, it takes a 30 seconds or so to transfer the patches to your iPad. Sometimes, it doesn't preload all of them at the same time, so if you are trying to scroll down to bank 25, you have to wait as it retrieves each bank from the FH. Loading patches from the iPad works fine, but does take a few seconds, it likely wouldn't work if you were playing live and trying to switch that way. That being said, you can organize your patches, storing them wherever you want in any of the ABCD locations in any of the 32 banks. Then you can use the ABCD buttons to switch between them. Switching patches that way is very quick. I don't keep music on my iPad, I use Beats music instead. So, I didn't get to try out the tone matching yet. Playing music from Beats works fine. When switching between the FH application and other music applications on my iPad, the FH disconnects from the iPad. It does reconnect automatically, but that takes a few seconds. Using tone search, you can usually find a patch that gets you close and edit from there. Loading the patch from the cloud is as simple as tapping on it. Editing patches on the iPad is fun and intuitive. Once a patch has changed, the title of the patch turns red indicating that what you are hearing is different from what is stored on the FH. You can save the changes to the FH from the iPad using the"Save info" button. However, I find it easier to use the FH. On the FH, the patch will have a period next to it's location in the title. For Example "30D.Cray Clean" in its name, indicating that changes have been made. You can save those changes by tapping and holding the patch button, the FH will show you the patch location, Tap and hold again to save to that location. (If this is unclear, there are instructions in the manual for saving patches.) Once the patch has been saved, the period disappears - "30D Cray Clean" Making small changes to patches while playing is really easy and doesn't require you to bend over and mess with the FH or use your computer. As with all POD units, volume leveling between patches will likely be necessary One thing I REALLY like is that stomps are color-coded, And the LEDs change colors, so you always know what effect is where, Making it easy to turn them on and off, and you don't get confused between patches. For example, MOD effects will always be blue, reverb effects will always be orange, regardless of where you put them in the signal chain. Much easier than the HD500X where the LED's were all red and I had to remember where each stomp was for each different patch. The tuner is cool, it shows up on the iPad, on the display on the FH, and the LEDs around the large volume knob. Accessing the Varian settings for the patch is easy and works great. Guitar Model, pickup and tuning are all assignable by patch. Love switching from a Lester to a Strat to an acoustic at the stomp of a switch. As far as the sound is concerned, the FH sounds fantastic! It has all of the HD models the pod HD500X has out of the box. I don't think that it has the new HD models that were just released as an add-on. I'm not sure if those will be available for the FH in the future firmware add-ons. I found many of the preloaded patches to be very usable. Since I use the JTV, It would be nice to see more acoustic presets. I don't think it does dual tone patches, but I didn't use any anyways. Patches from older PODS are not compatible with the Firehawk.... So, if you have a library of POD patches, it doesn't seem like you can just port them to your Firehawk - that is a bummer. The build is very solid. Good weight to it, but not as heavy as the POD HD500X. Metal case. The buttons are the same as the HD500X, except for the color coded LEDS. The Drive, Bass, Mid, Treb, etc knobs are not notched, they are nice and smooth. When you turn one, the LED's around the volume show you where the initial setting for that parameter was with a red LED, and White LED's show up as you turn the knob. Cool! The large volume knob works as a volume and blend control - like a mixer between the guitar volume and the music you are playing to. It feels solid, and is notched, meaning it clicks as you turn it. LED's light up for either. You can also adjust the volume and blend from the iPad etc. I would have liked a little more control here, the volume jumps between the clicks a little too much for my liking. But, it's easily fixed by using the volume on the iPad as well. Expression pedal is a little cheaper then the HD500X, but is very solid still. Works fine and is assignable like the other PODS. Overall, I'm loving it. Let me know if you have any questions. JP
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Here is my video showing the stock presets for the Firehawk FX.
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I was trying to recreate the solo in Like a Stone using the firehawk as a whammy pedal. It has an effect called bender in the synths section. At first this seemed impossible because when you first enter the bender effect (for me at least) you can only control the mix parameter with the FX knob or expression pedal. I looked all over the place to see where I can reassign the pedal to the position parameter, like a whammy pedal. Plus, why would the mix parameter be controlled by the pedal by default? Anyway, I searched for an answer and couldn't find any. So I switched the effect to see how the pedal was controlling other parameters in other effects. Couldn't find a solution there either. So I went back to the bender effect. When I went back, the expression pedal was assigned to the position parameter, like how I wanted it. No idea how it happened... but I was able to publish my attempt at the Like a Stone Solo tone. So does anyone know how to manually change what parameter is assigned to the FX knob or expression pedal? I just got lucky, but would like to know how this can be controlled. THANKS!
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Hey guys, Check out my latest video showing a song I created using the Firehawk and my iPad.
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I just got the Firehawk and was fiddling with the remote app on my iPhone. I then decided to use a larger interface and grabbed my Galaxy Tab3 (Android). I was trying to see if I could use the Now Playing song to match possible patches (which worked on the iPhone). When i go to the Now Playing in the remote app on my tablet... it doesn't appear to find any songs on the device (even if i am plying a song in the background). Is this an iOS only feature right now? Thanks, Bryan
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Has anyone used the FX send /return path of the Firehawk Yet ? The key question is do you have to connect the return portion ? I am looking for a way to have a clean signal from the Firehawk at the same time as my processed outs. Since the position of the FX send/return can be placed just after the wah (position of Variax and wah are fixed) in the order map a clean signal should be available at the FX send connections. Alternately, the USB out could carry a signal to a DAW using the Driver provided by Line 6. A this point it is my understanding only a "Main Out" processed signal is available for USB. Other companies like Roland have guitar processors that carry both Processed and clean signals over the same USB connection for use with DAWs. Any insights as to future upgrades for Firehawk to provide similar functionality?
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I want a Firehawk TT. The circuits and software of a Firehawk FX floorboard in the hardware design of the Amplifi TT. I know most gigging pros probably prefer a floorboard unit, but I'd love a desktop unit. I'd plunk down my hard-earned cash if Line 6 releases something like this. Any thoughts? Limitations or reason why they won't? Anybody else want something like this?
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Just wondering if anyone might know, even though the Variaxes all come with the Workbench interface now, will the Firehawk act as a Workbench interface like the Pods do?
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Hello! I pre-ordered the firehawk and I'm really excited. I own the hd500 and have been wanting something easier to use and edit. What effects will be available in the firehawk? Please tell me the pitch glide made the cut! Thanks!
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hi line 6 - Firehawk - almost perfect for what i need. i can see why this all in one floor solution is potentially great for so many people - but for those people that use real amps its scintillating close to a great product but currently no good. there must be millions of people out there that don't use the amp modelling just the effects. so i suggest a fire hawk effects only unit. a sort of update to all the M series effects boxes you've had before. Lose all amp modelling and make all the effects HD add a channel switching option for amp channels - a jack on the back of the machine - or put midi in. make the knobs/controls on the foot controller applicable to effects - i.e. - speed, depth, level, mix etc etc. then everyone that uses a real amp might consider one of these. i think its worth asking the question as right now without a amp channel switching jack or midi its useless to me. But I'm drawn in by the fantastic foot controller with colour coding switches and the bluetooth to my iPad on stage software for controlling everything. thats your greatest strength right now - the iPad editor app. so simple and so powerful. I've seen so many bands (including myself) where the guitarist has an iPad on stage next to him. Has anyone tried the fire hawk yet - is there a way of switching amp channels and storing it in a preset? So unless the PODHD 500x software update includes adding a bluetooth add on and the iPad app to control it i need something like the fire hawk.
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Any plans to incorporate Amplifi style town matching into the Firehawk?
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Firstly, can I say that I think the FX100 is great. I have had many effects / pedals in the past and usually just gone back to Marshall and Guitar and ditch everything else. I do have an HD400 but never really tweaked it much and the PC editor was good but a bit of a faff to use. maybe over complicated for an average user. For the record I have used FX100 for rehearsals and recording (released material) and it is very effective (I reckon it could easily be used live but I have held back due to potential for monitoring concerns). Try and play tones loud when you get the chance as they come alive more than just listening at home. I use it with a bank of settings using the same Amp. So A is Amp only, B is Amp + Volume and Reverb (for lead), C is Amp + Phaser, D is Amp + Delay I too am not sure where to head next with regard to the Firehawk. I have a HD400 and an FX100 (and an Amplifi 75). Something has to go! Some differences I would like to understand though: HD400 has Line6 Port (which allows control of DT25 and DT50 amps direct from the footswitch). No such port on the Firehawk. Could you the Firehawk FX Loop but not quite the same thing. Brilliant that there is bank up and down switches though as the tapping of 2 FX100 switches to go up and down was prone to error. Independent switching for FX (5 switches) is great as it means I am not limited to just the 4 settings discussed above. Makes it 20 available I think (maybe more in combination) A big requirement for me is to be able to use the Tap function independently of the programmed tone. FX100 tone set with a delay of say 180bpm is locked into the system so I can't switch from A to D (for example) to anything other than 180bpm without tapping again and this is useless when playing live. Hopefully I can tap on intro and then just kick in the delay as required. Hopefully that makes sense. I read somewhere that the tones for Firehawk are in packs. Does this means additional purchases? Outputs look more like the HD400 on the Firehawk but FX100 outputs are comprehensive anyway (other than the Line 6 Port). Wish it had a 'kettle' lead though I guess this bulks up the pedal. Nice to have LCD of loaded tone on Firehawk. Any other advantages / disadvantages people? Which one(s) should I sell to uby the Firehawk.....if any.
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I know that a lot of people see USB connectivity making midi obsolete. I've noticed that the two latest pedal boards, both of which seem to be really awesome lack a midi connection. Our band runs on midi, we use it to control our lights, keyboard program changes, and program changes on both of our guitar effects units so we don't have to do the river dance during a performance. Lack of midi means that I pretty much will not be a buyer for either of these products which makes me sad. I'm a loyal Variax user and would have really like to run the Firehawk through the paces to see if it could best my Boss GT-100. I love the connectivity via bluetooth and see so much potential. If only it had midi......
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AMPLIFi family and Firehawk Bluetooth Connectivity Troubleshooting
Line6Don posted a article in AMPLIFi Series
Version française. Deutsche Version. Please be aware that with the current AMPLIFi and Firehawk remote apps, connection problems can occur if the Bluetooth device is paired after the app has been opened. In this scenario, we suggest that you: fully quit the app (double click the home button and swipe the app off the dock) pair over Bluetooth launch the app CLICK HERE for a video tutorial on Bluetooth Pairing your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. To pair the AMPLIFi/Firehawk with your Bluetooth device: Enable Bluetooth on the device you would like to stream audio from. Put the AMPLIFi/Firehawk into "Pairing Mode" by pressing and holding the Bluetooth button located on the upper left of the top panel. It will begin to flash quickly to indicate it is in "Pairing Mode", and the Master Volume knob's LEDs will change from solid red to flashing white. Within the Bluetooth options of your mobile device, an entry for "AMPLIFi/Firehawk" will appear. Select the "AMPLIFi/Firehawk" entry and pair with it. The Bluetooth LED will stop flashing and become solidly lit blue. Your AMPLIFi/Firehawk is now ready stream audio from your device and work with the Remote app. If you are experiencing unexpected Bluetooth performance such as audio playback drop outs, intermittent connectivity between your AMPLIFi/Firehawk and its Remote app, decreased range, or difficulty finding, pairing, and connecting to your Bluetooth device, you most likely are encountering interference with your Bluetooth connection. Here are some common sources of Bluetooth interference: Physical barriers such as the structure/material of the environment or objects in the surrounding area that are within the line of sight between the two devices. Any wireless device that operate in the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz frequency range. Wi-Fi devices, routers, hotspots, and accessories. Other Bluetooth devices or accessories. Direct Satellite Service system Extreme electrical sources such as power lines, electrical railroad tracks, and power stations. Try the following troubleshooting steps in the order they are listed to help minimize the amount of Bluetooth interference you are experiencing. Please refer to the Bluetooth pairing instructions above when following the troubleshooting steps below: Quit AMPLIFi remote by double clicking the home button and swiping the app up off the dock, then restart the app. Make sure you are in range of the Bluetooth accessory with which you are trying to pair with as most Bluetooth accessories have a range of around 30 feet. Move your iOS device closer to the Bluetooth accessory. Reposition your AMPLIFi/Firehawk so that it is in direct line of sight with the Bluetooth device you are pairing it with. Remove the case, stand, or accessories you are using with your Bluetooth device. Double check that your device is successfully paired with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Delete/"forget" your AMPLIFi/Firehawk device from the list of available Bluetooth devices. Press and hold the Bluetooth button on the upper left of the top panel for 2-3 seconds and let go; it should begin to blink quickly to indicate that your AMPLIFi/Firehawk is in "Pairing mode". Try again to pair your Bluetooth device with the AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Disable Bluetooth on the device you are using with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk, re-enable Bluetooth on the device and re-pair it with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Make sure the power cable in the AMPLIFi/Firehawk is firmly connected. Turn your AMPLIFi/Firehawk off and back on again, re-pair it with your Bluetooth device. Make sure that you have updated your AMPLIFi/Firehawk to the latest available firmware. For instructions on how to update your AMPLIFi's firmware, click HERE. Check for your environment for the common sources interference above of and move both the AMPLIFi/Firehawk and your Bluetooth device away from the interference or the source of interference away from the area. On iOS devices, you can reset network settings by tapping Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings. Note: This will reset all network settings including: previously connected Wi-Fi networks and passwords, recently used Bluetooth accessories, VPN, and APN settings." After the iOS device has reset you can try again to re-pair it with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Dépannage Bluetooth pour l’AMPLIFi Cliquez ici pour une vidéo du couplage Bluetooth sur l’AMPLIFi. Pour coupler votre AMPLIFi avec un appareil Bluetooth: Activez le Bluetooth sur votre appareil à partir duquel vous voulez diffuser de la musique. Mettez l’AMPLIFi en mode „Pairing‘ en appuyant sur le bouton Bluetooth sur le dessus de l’AMPLIFi. Le bouton commence de clignoter que veut dire que l’AMPLIFi est en mode de couplage. Dans les options de Bluetooth de votre appareil, une entrée « AMPLIFi » s’affichera. Sélectez l’entrée « AMPLIFi » et couplez les appareils. Le LED s’arrête de clignoter et s’allume continué. Vous pouvez diffuser votre musique sur l’AMPLIFi sans câble. Si vous rencontrez des décrochages audio, de connectivité intermittente, gamme diminué en utilisant Bluetooth ou si vous avez des problèmes de trouver, coupler ou connecter vos appareils, il est plus probable que vous avez des interférences avec la connexion Bluetooth. Sources fréquentes des interférences Bluetooth : Des barrières matérielles. Des objets dans la ligne visée. Tous les appareils, routeurs, points d’accès et accessoires WiFi. Des appareils ou accessoires Bluetooth. Des systèmes Direct Satellite Service. Des sources électroniques extrêmes comme lignes électriques, voies ferrées électriques et centrales électriques. Essayez le dépannage suivant dans l’ordre indiqué pour réduire l’interférence Bluetooth: Assurez-vous que l’appareil Bluetooth est en gamme de l’AMPLIFi. Les pluparts des accessoires Bluetooth ont une gamme Bluetooth de 9 mètres. Placez votre appareil iOS plus proche de l’AMPLIFi. Positionnez votre AMPLIFi de sorte qu’il est en ligne visée directe avec l’appareil Bluetooth. Enlevez le boitier, le support ou accessoires que vous utilisez avec l’appareil Bluetooth. Revérifier si l’appareil est connecté et couplé avec l’AMPLIFi. Si l’AMPLIFi est nommé dans la liste des appareils Bluetooth comme « Pas connecté » ou « Pas couplé » supprimez-le de la liste des appareils Bluetooth disponibles. Appuyez et maintenez le bouton le bouton Bluetooth sure l’AMPLIFi pour 2-3 secondes. Maintenant, le bouton clignote que veut dire que l’appareil est en « mode couplage ». Essayez de coupler les appareils encore une fois. Désactivez Bluetooth sur l’appareil que vous utilisez avec l’AMPLIFi. Réactivez-le et essayez de coupler les appareils encore une fois. Assurez-vous que le câble d’alimentation est connecté bien. Éteindrez l’AMPLIFi et rallumez-le. Couplez les appareils de nouveau. Assurez-vous que le firmware est à jour. Cliquez ici pour les instructions de la mise à jour firmware. Vérifiez votre environnement pour les sources communes d'interférence et éloignez l’AMPLIFi et l’appareil Bluetooth de l’interférence. Sur les appareils iOS, vous pouvez réinitialiser les paramètres réseau dans : Réglages > Général > Réinitialiser > Réinitialiser les réglages réseau. Attention, ceci réinitialise tous les réglages réseau compris sont les mots de passes réseau WiFi connectés, des accessoires Bluetooth récemment utilisés et des paramètres VPN et APN. Après cette réinitialisation, essayez de coupler les appareils. AMPLIFi Bluetooth Fehlerbehebung: Klicken Sie hier für ein Video wie Sie Ihr AMPLIFi per Bluetooth koppeln können. Um Ihr AMPLIFi mit einem anderen Bluetooth Gerät zu koppeln: Schalten Sie Bluetooth auf dem Gerät ein von welchem aus Sie die Musik streamen wollen. Schalten Sie den Koppelmodus Ihres AMPLIFi ein indem Sie den Bluetooth Knopf oben auf dem AMPLIFi für 2 bis 3 Sekunden gedrückt halten. Der Knopf wird dann anfangen zu blinken un der LED des „Master Volume“ Knopfes zird weiß blinken. In den Bluetooth Einstellungen wird das AMPLIFi dann als Gerät auftauchen. Wählen Sie das AMPLIFi aus und koppeln Sie beide Geräte. Der Bluetooth LED wird dann in durchgehendem Blau leuchten. Das AMPLIFi ist nun bereit Musik von Ihrem gekoppelten Gerät zu empfangen. Falls Ihr AMPLIFi unerwartete Aussetzer, abbrechende Verbindung, verringerte Reichweite oder andere Probleme wie Schwierigkeiten beim verbinden, koppeln oder suchen anderer Bluetooth geräte hat, dann gibt es wahrscheinlich Interferenzen in der Bluetooth Verbindung zwischen beiden Geräten. Häufige Quellen für Bluetooth Interferenzen sind zum Beispiel: Objekte die sich in der Sichtlinie zwischen AMPLIFi und Bluetooth Gerät befinden. WiFi Geräte, Router, Hotspots oder sonstiges WiFi Zubehör. Andere Bluetooth Geräte. Direct Satellite Service Systeme. Starke Stromquellen wie Stromleitungen, elektrische Eisenbahnschienen oder Kraftwerke. Versuchen Sie Folgendes in der angegebenen Reihenfolge um Bluetooth Interferenzen zu minimieren: Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie mit Ihrem Bluetooth Gerät in der Nähe des AMPLIFi befinden. Die meisten Bluetooth Geräte haben eine Bluetooth Reichweite von ca. 9 Metern. Platzieren Sie Ihr iOS Gerät näher ans AMPLIFi. Positionieren Sie Ihr AMPLIFi so neu, dass es in direkter Sichtlienie zum Bluetooth Gerät steht mit welchem Sie es koppeln wollen. Entfernen Sie Gehäuse, Ständer oder anderes Zubehör, welches an das Bluetooth Gerät angeschlossen ist. Überprüfen Sie noch einmal ob Ihr Gerät korrekt mit dem AMPLIFi gekoppelt ist. Sollte Ihr AMPLIFi auf Ihrem Bluetooth Gerät als Nicht Verbunden oder Nicht Gekoppelt angezeigt werden, versuchen Sie das Gerät aus der Liste der zur Verfügung stehenden Bluetooth Geräte zu löschen. Halten Sie dann die Bluetooth Taste auf Ihrem AMPLIFi gedrückt. Die Bluetooth Taste sollte nun blinken, was bedeutet, dass Ihr AMPLIFi im Koppelmodus ist. Verusuchen Sie erneut die Geräte zu koppeln. Schalten Sie Bluetooth auf dem Gerät, welches Sie mit dem AMPLIFi koppeln wollen ab. Schalten Sie es wieder ein und versuchen Sie erneut zu koppeln. Überprüfen Sie das Stromkabel das AMPLIFi und ob es sitzt. Schalten Sie das AMPLIFi aus, wieder ein und koppeln Sie erneut. Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Firmware des AMPLIFi auf dem neuesten Stand ist. Klicken Sie hier für eine Anleitung für ein Firmwareupdate. Überprüfen Sie die Umgebung auf Interferenzen. Bewegen Sie das Bluetooth gerät sowie das AMPLIFi weg von der Quelle der Interferenzen. Auf iOS Geräten können Sie die Netzwerkeinstellungen hier zurücksetzen: "Einstellungen" > "Allgemein" > "Zurücksetzen" > "Netzwerkeinstellungen". Achtung, dies wird jegliche Netzwerkeinstellungen zurücksetzen, eischließlich alles Bluetooth Kopplungen, WLAN-Kennwörter und VPN sowie APN Eisntellungen.
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