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Ok, I'm here just to share my experience with my jtv 59, I thought it could help the community as it adresses common problems (ping, volume drops in certain strings etc.) I'm not a native speaker, I hope this is understandable to all ;) First of all, by doing this I voided my warranty, think about it before doing anything. I read about this mods on this forum, so the credit isn't mine. I hope this post does not break any forum's rule, in that case let me know and I'll erase/modify it. Volume inconsistency between strings: Probably you already know the cause for this, the negative connection from the piezo is provided by contact on the bridge, but sweat from the hands will form oxide that raise resistance to ground, lowering that saddle volume. The lower E string is more prone to this. Two solutions for this: a. going for a graphtech ghost bridge, but it's not cheap at all, and the variax it's not designed for it, so i went for option b.: give the saddles a proper grounding. I'll explain step by step what I did: 1. disconnected bridge connector https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!390&authkey=!APLs3dI-ytbcNAU&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg 2. raised the bridge by using an hex key. As you can see from this pic: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!391&authkey=!AGV4Ggk2-NnMGhE&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg the pcb under the bridge already has soldering pads for each saddle ground, the lr baggs saddle does not provide a second wire for ground, we'll get there. I removed the hot glue globs with an exacto knife, they come off pretty easely, and I desoldered the + wires from their pads. Now the saddles are free, just remove the screws and the pcb will be gone. 3. At this point you'll have something like this: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!382&authkey=!AMlTDXNemHaZ2-A&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg notice the holes for the wires in the bridge, I had to use tiny ones I salvaged from an usb cable. I put some masking tape on the guitar to avoid scratches. 4. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!384&authkey=!AGviVZ1R68CkB1s&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg this is the saddle kept by a needle nose plier, with a rubber band to keep it close, I didn't have a vise at hand :D This provides heat sink, piezos don't like high temperatures, so be quick while soldering. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!381&authkey=!ANLdF7VbuPA6yQI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg see that pad? the wire goes there. remove enough epoxy to have a clean solder, i used an exacto knife. 5. pre-tin the pad and the wire: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!392&authkey=!AEP5OkV6mnkZybc&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg and solder quick and fearless with a small soldering iron: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!383&authkey=!AGvyap6hMU05XCk&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg 6. After repeating point 5. for six times put the saddle back in place, and solder every wire to each pad on the pcb: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!389&authkey=!ADJExiPhxu9o7rg&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg focus on avoiding solder bridges (as you can see on the D string, I cut that after shooting the photo) and on having shiny solder. Apply some hot glue back to keep the wires in place. 7. remove masking tape, put the bridge in its place and reconnect the wires to the big pcb on the rear. Pinging noise: I found that this noise is in reality the pick scraping on the string, witch is common with piezo bridges, when you palm mute, you're dampening the fundamental, and the noise seems louder. line 6 did a great job in removing this noise in the overall signal, but for unknow reasons sometimes on certain guitars the magic stop working. unfortunately there's nothing you can do about it, so i went to the root of the problem: strings windings I restrung my guitar with D'addario Half Rounds 10-52 that are between full rounds and flatwounds, and reduced pinging noise to a point that i don't care anymore. If you find this too dull sounding for you, mess with volume pot values on workbench to dial back in the lost brightness, I didn't find this necessary anyway. Crosstalk / warbling sound I dampen the strings after the nut and after the saddles on every guitar I own, I hate the ringing sound when playing in staccato. On the jtv this can also improve stability on alternative tunings. pretty easy to do, a piece of heatshrink tubing on the bridge to avoid rattling noise: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!388&authkey=!AAZJdOig1VBLWj0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg and a piece of foam between the strings and the headstock: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!387&authkey=!ADWIOE4g37H-xtM&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg Peace!

I connected my JTV 69S using the Line 6 digital cable and a 1/4" guitar cord to my Pod HD ProX. The Pod is connected to my Win 8.1 Pro computer. Monkey software found the JTV and said there was a firmware update. I followed the Monkey instructions and the JTV firmware update started. The blue progress bar was showing progress and everything thing looked fine. Then Monkey said it couldn't finish. After this I cannot use the guitar models on the JTV. It won't even light up when you hold the "models" knob down. Any help to reset this would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin

I have an "open box" JTV-69 on the way, but it doesn't include the USB interface. Does anyone know if this version work with it? http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Workbench

For those who, like me, want to memorized all the possible Variax HD models/presets available. Enjoy! http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=16495.0

Hi all, as the title says, dumb question. I'm running a JTV-69 into a HD500x into an Alesis Alpha 112 powered speaker ("500w continuous, 1000w peak"). After a while I wondered how much clean headroom I really had and ran the right 1/4" out from the HD500 into my old Drive G120 (120 watt) combo amp. So at that point, HD500 left 1/4" out into passive DOD A/B box, into Alesis, and HD500 right 1/4" into A/B box, into Drive combo amp. A/B'ing the Alesis vs. the Drive combo, it seems like the combo amp has a ton more headroom than the Alesis. Obviously I'm not much of a gearhead. Any opinions? Notes: -I don't have any complaints about the HD500x into the Alesis, other than that the Alesis is hissy and I'm going to return it and get an Alto or JBL etc instead. Normally I run the HD500x XLR out into the Alesis XLR in. -I had the Alesis a few days before I saw on the interwebs that the Alesis XLR/line input volume knob is misleading in that it's intended to only go up to "5" for line input before risk of blown speaker, but the XLR volume can go up to 10 theoretically. In my trials with the HD500x into the Alesis I am watching the clip light and clipping is not a factor for either the Alesis or the Drive.

Hey guys, New member here from Canada. Not sure if this is the right place to post this but a few days ago I bought a used Variax JTV-69 but the guitar did not come with the USB workbench interface. No big deal I thought to myself as I assumed the interface would be around the 20$ mark. Called today a Canadian Line6 dealer and the Workbench interface is a lot more :( This is to much money for me as funds are currently a bit tight and I want to edit the parameters on my Variax JTV but I can't :/ I don't have any POD either... I was wondering if there is a forum member who already uses his Variax through his POD willing to donate or sell his (now unused) Workbench interface on a fair price. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I love being able to control HD500 parameters with my Variax tone and volume knob and look forward to doing it with Helix too. What I really want is to be able to control the Variax tone, volume and even tunings, models and pickups with the POD or Helix either with the expression pedal or with a foot switch. Using the exp pedal to control guitar volume has a totally different effect than changing amp volume or drive but for me its a PITA to get it consistently right. And being able to hit a FS to change tuning and guitar model or pickup would be amazing! http://line6.ideasca...508?submitted=1 Vote it up!

My JTV-69 has developed a serious noise issue when playing with mags. I was getting a lot of noise with mags and it seemed to vary depending on where my hands were, where I had the guitar positioned, like it was totally intermittent. Last night I finally isolated the problem. It only happens if any part of my picking hand touches the humbucker pickup trim ring. No issues touching anything else, bridge, knobs, trem, all good. But while I am playing, if my pinkie resting on the pickguard touches the trim ring or my palm on the other side of the strings, I get a loud hum with static. This only happens when I turn off the modeling. Modeling on, no noise ever. Modeling off, it happens every time I touch the trim ring. I am connected by VDI to my HD500, with a fully charged battery. Any suggestions on where to begin with this?

I tried to set up my JTV TMOD-5 (neck pickup) model to be similar to my Fender 60's Player Tele neck pickup. I had my JTV connected to my HD500 with VDI and my Tele connected via 1/4" Guitar In. The HD500 connected to my PC via USB and Windows HD running. I had L mono out going to a mixing desk connected to a reference amp connected to Tannoy Reveal monitors. I just wanted to get the model strings balanced and sounding similar to the real thing - I didn't think I could get them to sound identical, just similar. So I was just using the same CLEAN sounding amp model patch in the HD500 for the comparison. Both guitars had Volume and Tone controls on Max. First off, I was surprised by how different they both sounded - the Fender Tele with rich warm notes on the 3 low strings and treble attack on the high strings but the JTV model just had high treble attack across all strings. So I looked at the GUITAR-IN-Z setting and it was set to AUTO. So I tried removing the fx blocks before the amp in the patch and when I was left just with the amp, I was getting a brighter sound but still nowhere near as bright as the JTV model. So I tried manually setting the GUITAR-IN-Z value and even with it on the highest level of 3.5M the Fender Tele did not sound quite as bright as the JTV model. It was getting closer but still far enough apart to easily be able to tell the difference. Nothing more I could do to adjust the Fender Tele tone, so I looked at options for the JTV model, and the only things available in Workbench HD are the Volume pot resistance value and the Tone pot resistance and knob position. As I always have my Tone on max, the Tone pot value was not going to be of any use, unless I decided to save a lower Tone knob position with the model. This prompted me to ask "why can't I set the input impedance for the Variax VDI just like I can with the Guitar In?". Surely that would be the best option? But it's not available. So the next question "why is it not available?". My testing with the GUITAR-IN-Z showed that those changes made a big difference to the tonal input of the guitar. Surely we should be able to do the same with the JTV? Or if not, then surely the JTV models should be very similar to the equivalent standard guitar models without any need to tweak - but they are not - they are much brighter and full of high end - well the Tele Neck pickup model certainly is. So - I could go into Workbench and spend some time experimenting with the different volume pot values to see if I could match the tonal qualities of the model with the real thing, or I could experiment with the tone pot values and setting of the knob position to achieve a similar tonal quality. But these options seem way over the top and time consuming and unnecessary when the Variax models should have the input impedance modelled in some way already or at the very lest they should respond like the AUTO setting does for Guitar In and match chosen fx or amp, but they don't. They don't appear to have any modelled tonal attenuation due to "lead length" or "Input impedance" - they seem to be constant with no high end attenuation occurring as with a real guitar/pickup/lead combination. Does anyone know why the VDI implementation does not allow for any impedance matching like Guitar-In-z ? Does anyone have any suggested values for volume and/or tone pots that I could try in Workbench HD to make the JTV Tmod-5 model behave tonally like a real Fender Tele neck pick up in terms of attenuated high end? Thanks in advance.

I have my HD500 set to input 1 Variax, input 2 same and yet when I turn off the modeling in my JTV I can still hear the mags. Is this normal? Shouldn't the mags only be heard if I select Variax Mags in the POD? How does it work for anyone else with a JTV/HD500? Does it matter if the battery is installed or not? I just feel like there is a faint ghost note coming through and I think it is the mags bleeding through. PS - all firmware is up to date and I am connected only using the VDI cable.

I say almost pristine because for a short while my left-handed (and upside down) guitar playing dad was borrowing it and there is a second strap pin on the lower horn. Of course it can be removed but tbh the pin looks nicer than the hole. No paintwork was cracked in the drilling of the second hole so you could quite easily cover it up, paint over it, or just leave it. Otherwise the guitar is in excellent condition. I have the original gig bag (although it was never gigged) and all cables, including the Variax interface and a battery. I also took the liberty of surrounding the pickup mounting springs with foam so it will no longer chime like a bell if you attempt to play choppy/staccato rhythms! I'm looking for £480 but I will take sensible offers. Collection would be preferable, but courier is an option (for a fee), or even driving to meet halfway. I like to drive. Hit me up if you're interested. I can supply eBay feedback/references if necessary!

Hi. I updated my POD HD500 and JTV-59 recently to the new firmwares. Now when I turn it on with the Variax plugged in it just constantly reboots - doesn't get far enough to make a sound. As soon as I unplug the Variax (VDI connected), it starts and I can plug the guitar back in and it works. Anyone else in this boat? I haven't tried reflashing anything but will soon I guess.

Hey guys, Check out my latest video showing a song I created using the Firehawk and my iPad.

I think this has just started happening...Whenever I change the patch on the HD500 the Variax switches to a model (even though the guitar is set to magnetic pickups only). I have double checked the Variax controller window in HD500 edit and that says "Don't force" for model selection. So if the Variax (JTV59) is set to magnetic pickups then changing the patches on the 500 shouldn't have any effect on the guitar - but it does. I feel I must be missing something simple. Any ideas?

My setup: JTV59 > VDI > HD500 > USB > DAW JTV fw v2.21 HD500 fw v2.62 Chosen JTV model Lester Bridge unmodified compared against JTV59 bridge. Chosen HD500 patch - my own custom built using Marshall 100 model. The patch has a Hard Gate and then the Amp model, followed by a parametric EQ to remove the harshness around 3K, and then a Vintage pre EQ to remove bottom (80hz) and top (7khz) ends, and then finally a room reverb. And then a blank patch with both L + R sides boosted by 6db at mixer stage. Noted behaviour: On my custom patch the Lester Model drives the Marshall 100 amp model slightly harder than the JTV mags. (There is less difference on the recordings than I can hear on headphones A/B ing the two sounds - the mags always produce a clearer slightly less driven tone). On the blank patch the Lester Model has way less volume than the JTV mags. Attached sound file showing Marshall patch with Lester model followed by JTV mags, and then blank patch showing Lester model followed by JTV mags. Question: If the JTV mags are so much louder than the modelled Lester Bridge, then why does the modelled Lester bridge drive the Marhsall 100 model harder than the louder JTV mag bridge humbucker? I expected the louder pickup signal to drive the model amp harder but it is the other way around in this instance. JTV-Model-Mags-Compare.zip

I've had my JTV-69 for over 2 years now, use it frequently for live gigs a with a covers band here in the UK, and it's my go-to guitar. No other make of guitar can do as much, so well. I also have a Variax 700 (my third) as a spare. When I had to get my Variax 700 fixed, (new piezo's - they do fail periodically) I was very impressed with Line 6 service facility in the UK Midlands. But how the picture has changed now. It seems that there is no support centre in the UK any more. All the support for the whole of Europe now seems to be in Germany. It's not easy to send my guitar to a different country if (when) it breaks, I can't even buy most parts for the guitars in Europe. According to the Line 6 support web site, there is not an authorized Variax service centre within a thousand miles! So, when the time comes to replace my JTV with another Variax, how likely am I to spend a substantial sum of money buying a high-tech guitar where there is no accessible support? Answer - not at all likely. So, Line 6, my sincere congratulations on making a great product, and I'm very sad that this will be the end of the road for me as a Line 6 customer and advocate.

Hey guys, Check out my latest video showcasing the new 5150 amp model.

I am selling my beautiful black JTV-69S. I love the smooth tremelo, the comfortable play-ability and, of course, the awesome Variax tones! I also have a JTV-59 that just seems like a better fit for me, so I've decided to sell the 69S. Please see the attached photos of the actual guitar for sale and take a minute to view the listing over at reverb.com: https://reverb.com/item/581960-line-6-jtv-69s-james-tyler-variax-sss-black PM me if you have any questions or need more details - thanks!

I am selling my beautiful black JTV-69S. I love the smooth tremelo, the comfortable play-ability and, of course the awesome Variax tones! I also have a JTV-59 that just seems like a better fit for me, so I've decided to sell the 69S. Please see the attached photos of the actual guitar for sale and take a minute to view the listing over at reverb.com: https://reverb.com/item/581960-line-6-jtv-69s-james-tyler-variax-sss-black PM me if you have any questions or need more details - thanks!

I play very little high gain stuff in the band but have noticed that when I do need a tone more saturated than my usual crunch I struggle to get it to cut through. I am using an JTV-VDI-HD500-L3m as the rig. I seem to get the best results with the Treadplate but I would be interested to see how you guys set up the patch to cut through. Thanks in advance.

I am running a JTV-59 through a Yamaha THR 10C into an iMac via USB or just jamming with headphones plugged into the THR. The magnetic pickups sound great with the amp sims built into the THR. In fact, I'd say the tube amp sims in the THR are some of the best hardware or software (external device or computer plugins) I have come across so far. Granted, I don't have an Ax FX or Kemper Profiler. But when I switch over to the Variax models with the same amp sims (both THR and Guitar Rig), it just doesn't sound that great. The mags sound much better. Then I finally got around to turning the THR to the "FLAT" setting where no amp sim is applied to the signal. I only had a light hall reverb on. When I started going through the models I was blown away! Especially by the SEMI, JAZZBOX, and ROCKABILLY models. To me they sound so much better without an amp sim coloring their sound, even when the amp sim is set to low-gain, clean tones. The sound is more expressive and sounds less "gimmicky". I am starting to have more respect for what Line 6 has accomplished here. I am not disappointed at all because I really like to play with very clean tones, and no distortion. I know this probably has a lot to do with the preference of my ears. I'm just very puzzled why there would be such a difference between mags and Variax models when using amp sims. Do we get better results using simulated instrument and real amp, or amp sim and real mags, but things start to break down with simulated guitar AND simulated amp?

Hi, just purchased a JTV-59 which i love but only came with one battery. Was hoping would have an optional power supply like my old Variax 600 with a XPS A/B switch which have now sold. Can anybody tell me if the old XPS unit will power the newer JTV guitars, have been told yes but before buying new a unit need to know will not hurt JTV and it works. Any body done this. Thanks.

Did a quick looping video today using the HD500X and JTV. It was off the cuff, so there are a couple of slips in there, but still fun :) https://youtu.be/SVjNlvLXN-o

I have finally come tweaked an HD500 patch for JTV model Acoustic-5 through my L2m that I am happy with for live band use. It was set up and saved with HD500 connected to my L2m in ACOUSTIC GUITAR mode via L6 link. FS4 is set to toggle on/off tube compressor for solo boost if needed. It reduces the boomy resonance with the L2m when playing an acoustic model at volume and also reduces the harsh high-mid treble allowing the more subtle acoustic qualities to come through at volume in a live band setting. I have added it to CUSTOMTONE so please feel free to download it and try it out. http://line6.com/customtone/profile/edstar1960 Background info: I have a JTV59 with fw 2.1 and it is strung with Fender 150R's - and they are 10's. I have made some slight global string adjustments and model string level adjustments under Workbench HD. I hope that this patch will be useful - even if it needs to be tweaked some more for your own setup.

Hi, I have a JTV69 and I'm looking to buy an Hd500x. In anticipation I've already downloaded the editing software for the Hd500x so I'm familiarising myself with way it works. I know i can assign a foot switch to switch FX block in and out of the signal chain and that i can assign more than one FX block to a switch. Does anyone know if its possible to assign a foot switch to change a JTV patch in the same manner? I know that each patch within the Hd500x can have Variax patch assigned to it but it would be very helpful if it were possible to toggle between 2 sounds within an Hd500x patch - e.g. An acoustic and an electric... preferably using the same foot switch to switch in/out multiple fx blocks at the same time. For example if I wanted to play "Pinball Wizard" by The Who, I would need an acoustic sound with quite a lot of compression and a Hi Pass Filter but no 'amp' sound... Then for the chorus it would need and electric sound, different compression, EQ etc., and a 'Hi Watt' or similar... I know i could use the Mag pickups and an acoustic sound on the variax and go between them with the expression pedal but i want to use the modeled sounds. As far as i am aware, the variax changes patches using a MIDI protocol down the VDI cable... I cant see that this would be too difficult to implement with software. I hope i've explained myself - and that i havnt asked a stupid question... Vin Xxx