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Found 108 results

  1. I just purchased the Line6 Helix HX effects pedalboard and i have noted that whenever high gain effects are selected (happens in almost all the FUZZ effects), there is a high volume, ambulance type of noise (coming and going) in the tempo that the tap led is blinking. If you lower the gain a lot, (really a lot) the noise goes away but the effect is useless at such low gain/volume. anyone with similar symptoms?
  2. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
  3. Hi, I have a PODxt Pro, I recently started getting terrible EMI Interference noise (its not the 60 hz hum) on all outputs Digital. and all analog outs ie Balanced, unbalanced, headphones....... Its not guitars, cables, output devices, or external surrounding electrical devices........... when I was trouble shooting noise source ie... ground loops, firmware, surrounding electrical devices,.... all of which I think I have ruled out. I have one question, I never noticed that the internal POD power transformed hummed, even though that is not what I hear from outputs. Can anyone tell me if this is normal with the POD xt Pro power transformer to hear the 60 hz hum when device is powered on with no inputs or outputs connected? Thank for all replies in advance, Jeff
  4. Hi, I have a preset with snapshots using 1 amp (the cartographer which is great). Obviously because of using snapshots I have different parameters on the amp per snapshots. When I switch from one snapshot to another there is a loud pop noise. Is there a way to avoid that noise. I tried to use an eq pedal to regulate volume and keep the volume on the amp channel equal but this did not solve the issue. I also tried to put the amp in another path but this did not help neither.
  5. Got a PD 500XHD. Was working great - no complaints. All of a sudden, I heard a pop, and everything sounds "trebly". Patches that sounded great are crap now. I downloaded the last patches. My unit got out of sync one day (when your PC HDEdit is running but board is off). I've done this before so I know what to do. When I downloaded my latest save on the Open Bundle option, it didn't want to load. Once I loaded it, now all the tones seems "way off". Tested through 2 guitars, earphones, speakers, different connections - all the same. Am I missing something?
  6. I love using the helix with my real tube amp. I can use the real amp-sounds and just effects and/or the preamp modulation from helix and a real power amp kicking a real cab. Now, I would reaaaally love to have the helix connected to my DAW at the same time so I could also record and reamp the signals but plugging the USB between my helix and my mac causes all the speakers go justinbieberbangingcyborgbritneyspearsbrmmmmmmmm : C I haven't had this kind of problem with any other gear in my home studio. Any ideas? I could just use the analogue connections back and forth between my mixer but would love to skip all the A/D/A-conversions...
  7. I can not speak English because I am a foreigner. I wrote using Google Translator. Good morning. I am using FIVE O pickup now. The instrument uses an ukulele. The pickup uses a 3v CR2032 battery. When this pickup is connected, white noise is generated. There are two instruments equipped with this pickup, but they all have the same symptoms. Other passive pickups did not have this symptom. There was also no noise in the fishman pickup installed on the guitar. The Fishman pickup used a 9v battery. I want to remove this noise. ↓ five-O pick up Noise T^T
  8. I am using a POD HD 500X and a DT50 Head. I had tried the POD alone, but was dissatisfied with the "modeled" amp tones (I've always used a Mesa Boogie Rectifier, and am partial to a real "tube" tone. That's why I purchased the DT. I plugged directly into the DT, and using topology 4, was able to get an awesome heavy tone. Chunky. Tight. Very little noise. Awesome. So I set up the POD HD500X using the L6 link. Starting with a new (empty) patch, I tried to recreate that same sound I got by plugging directly into the DT. It seems that my choices are: 1) to use the Angel F-Ball model (using channel A), or 2) to use no amp model, which sends it to channel B. BOTH are unsatisfactory. (1) Using the model, it doesn't have the same warmth and clarity as if I'd plugged directly into the tube amp. And its VERY noisy!! (2) Using channel B, I need to turn up the output of the HD 500 all the way to get the same gain as if I'd plugged straight into the head. Or turn up the mixer in the HD signal chain all the way. This method is also very noisy. And in this way, I'd be limited to just one tone...whatever I have channel B set to. And woud also have no way to boost for leads. To make sure it wasn't my imagination, I have tested both ways, back and forth. I plugged into the DT directly - sounds amazing, crunchy, and no noise. I plug into the POD HD500X connected to the DT via L6 - noisy and mediocre tone. I bought the two so I could have a nice tube sound, but also be able to change between tolologies/gain amounts/effects configurations all in one click of the pedal. What do I need to do differently to get the same great tube sound I get from plugging directly into the DT, only using the POD, using the POD to change topologies, effects, etc? Thanks, Tim
  9. I updated my Helix LT yesterday to 2.6, and after that it's been really noisy. I tried different stock presets and it's the same thing. You can hear in the clip that it only stops momentarily when I play really loud. But other than that it's constantly there, and impossible to live with. I'm sure it's not my guitar, because everything was fine just before updating, and I tried another guitar with no change. I plugged my HD500x into the same outlet and it was completely quiet, which makes me think this is a HELIX issue. It's on all the outputs (headphones, 1/4", USB). Anyone know what is causing this? Helix Noise.mp3
  10. Hi everyone, I read some topics in the forum and i'm not sure if any topic describe exactly my problem so i have to ask you guys. I bought my guitar (a JTV 59) refurbished in Line 6 store and finally after 3 month I bring it to my home in Argentina after a travel in the US, so I have to solve the problem pretty much by myself. After a few days of using it the bridge magnetic pickup starts to make some intermittent noise (not a hum, more like a broken contact). It only happens once in a while using the magnetic pickups with the VDI cable with and without the battery. With a regular 1/4" plug with the battery the noise is still there, without the battery the noise disappears. My clue is that the pickup selector is either dirty or broken, but the noise should be there at least i'm missing something. If you have any solution besides cleaning the pickup switcher i'll apreceate your advices. Thanks you in advance. Sorry about my english, it's not my native lenguage.
  11. I can run out of my iPhone straight into the RCA connections on the back, turn up main volume, and it sounds great when music plays, when music stops, very little noise at all. When an input is applied anywhere else, however - either of the two side channels on the mixer, or on the main in on the back, turning up the main volume creates a hiss that isn't acceptable. I've tried multiple mics, multiple guitars, different cables, etc - all the same. Even when not even pushing a signal to the L3t, just having something plugged in to *any* input except RCA, and turning up the main knob - hiss. This is too big and expensive to just be something that makes mp3's sound good, hehe. Thoughts? Thanks!
  12. hello, just received my L3T, plugged in the Helix and played both treble and bass side of my chapman stick into it at moderate volume. As soon as I sustained any mid low content the noisy fan came on. Is this normal? Do these L3T start pumping on the fan as soon as you solicit the bass amp? Does that change if you add a L3S bass cab?
  13. Hi everyone! I am a begginer with PODHD 500x, that's why I need your help. I dowloaded differents patches from the LINE 6 website, and when I tried them at home everything worked fine. When I went to play with my band in our small room, I attached the POD direct in front of a combo (LINE 6 SPIDER IV - CLEAN). Problem is that when I play a distorted patch, it start to whistle and make unsupportable noise. I read on http://foobazaar.com/podhd/toneGuide/setup This that I report: "I recommend setting your output mode to the appropriate non-"Studio/Direct" mode. If you want to use your Pod for both "direct" and "live" purposes, I recommend leaving the output mode as "Studio/Direct" and setting your "live" patches up with "no cab" as your cabinet selection. When you use "no cab", you get the same output in every output mode (more-or-less) - all cab/mic simulation is simply disabled. " Now what I would like to try is to set INPUT 1: GUITAR and INPUT 2: VARIAX for all the patches; And then I would like to put this "no cab" suggested, but I don't really understand how to do this. About the "mixer" Path A and Path B should be Centered ? Or should I leave it 100%R and 100%L? May you help me through this? Any other reccomandations?
  14. Hello, I installed and began using UX1 with Pod Farm 2 the other day. From the get go, every time I play there is this annoying clicking sound randomly placed in my pattern. I thought there might be some metronome automatically being applied to my pattern, but I can't find a setting to disable that. This only happens when I am playing, picking or strumming. It is like STRUM, STRUM STRUM, (((CLICK))), STRUM STRUM STRUM (((CLICK))) . Does anyone know what is going on here?
  15. Hello! I've had a Line 6 Toneport UX2 for a couple of years now. Recently I got a new desktop PC running windows 10. When i connect my toneport all I can hear coming from the outputs and the phones output is a loud hissing noise. Drivers are all up to date, line 6 monkey shows me all green ticks, asio drivers are all ok. the input vu-meter is always at maximum even though nothing is connected to it. no input signal, no output sound (except for the loud hiss.) Running it in a usb 2.0 on the motherboard (so no usb dongle or something like that). Tried it with all ports, a couple of different usb cables. I've also tried seeing if my PC's output voltage was the problem but everything is ok, no overclocking done. I'm running out of ideas. Could anyone help me with this?
  16. I have a variax 700 acoustic. No matter which model I select, I get a good signal on all but one string. Usually the G or D string. It is distorted, fuzzy, whatever you want to call it , and it sounds horrible. If I tap on the saddle with my pick, it'll go back to normal. But it will do it again after a few minutes. Just out of curiosity, does Line 6 recommend steel or bronze strings for the variax acoustics? I've tried both and I'm never sure if one or the other is better. And then there's the model selector knob. It sometimes doesn't engage the next model intill you give it a tap. Not enough of a tap to go into the alt mode (red light) but just a touch to get it to change voices. Does anyone else have any of these issues and is there anything I can do about them? Thanks ! Bobby "Can I have a little more talent in my monitor? "
  17. EVERYTHING COMES ON, I CAN SWITCH THROUGH ALL MY PRESETS....IT JUST HAS A CONSTANT OSCILLATING NOISE COMING THROUGH IT. NOT SURE WHY. ANYBODY HAVE ANY THOUGHT OTHER THAN MAYBE A BAD POWER SUPPLY?
  18. HELLO LINE 6 BUDDIES! I'm two-track recording an acoustic guitar with my POD HD500X as the audio interface. I have a RODE NT1A condenser mic plugged into a mixer with phantom power. This mixer is then connected to the POD's 'Guitar In' input via guitar lead, and there is also an acoustic guitar connected to the 'AUX' input for a direct signal. This is all running through Logic Pro X on my Macbook Pro (Early 2015) with 16GB RAM. I have used this setup before and it has all worked fine, except today I am hearing intermittent static coming from both inputs at seemingly random intervals. It sounds like a short burst of a bitcrusher-like sound, and then goes back to normal after less than a second. It can't be any problem with the mic/mixer because I am getting the problem on AUX (direct input) as well as the Guitar In (mic) input. I have tried different USB cables, and have tried different power outlets. I have also tried a different audio interface (that can unfortunately only handle one input) that didn't seem to have the same problem, leading me to think that it also isn't an issue with Logic Pro X... SO... Has this happened to anyone before, and can anyone think of any reason this might be happening? Yeah, I've turned it off and on again ;)
  19. Hello anyone. If you have ended up here then you have had to deal with the pain of all this noise. I did however sort it simply. For Windows 10 users, it all comes down to your USB ports. USB 2.0 Fail – no sound at all. USB 3.0 Hissing/Crackling static noise. USB 3.1 Works perfect. Thanks.
  20. I am having a big problem with my HD500. The output has become extremely noisy... to the point where it's unusable. The output signal is literally about 60% noise and 40% signal. Also... it has changed all of my sounds (the names and settings appear the same on the display but the sounds are completely different and all very distorted). I'm a broke musician... I don't want to have to pay to fix this or buy a new unit if I can help it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. edit: Tried to reset and reload it... now every sound has a tape looper built in. Thanks.
  21. I want to ask if someone can verify that the following happens on their Helix as it does on mine before I file a bug report. I searched for this before creating this topic, if it's a dupe I'm excusing myself beforehand. I use Firmware 2.21 . I recommend using a DAW or method B to make sure there's no additional noises coming from pickups, cables etc. Symptom: Both the SV Beast Nrm and Brt models exhibit a clicking noise after sound was processed if the "Sag" parameter is set to a value of 0.6 or greater. Steps to reproduce: 1. Create a patch with just an SV Beast Amp in it. Set the "Sag" to a value equal or greater than 0.6, the other controls don't seem to have an influence. Set the input block to something quiet, e.g. USB. Method A: 2. Connect the Helix to a DAW and use a routing with sound only going in and out via USB (Reamping). 3. Monitor the Helix' main output (Channels 1&2), e.g. by arming a track for recording. 4. Play anything for any amount of time, then stop playback. Method B: 2. Set the "Hum" value to anything that produces an audible sound, then move it rapidly to 0. For both methods, there should be a crackling noise following that sounds like static discharge going through a lowpass filter. For "Sag" settings of 0.5 or less, I could not reproduce the symptom. If someone can confirm this, I will file a bug report, otherwise I'll scratch my head. With a confused face.
  22. I have made an AC30 preset which is half dirty/half clean. Sounds great! However, I have noticed some weird behaviour. If I engage the tuner - tune and then go back to the preset, sometime its like the volume has dropped off or the preset isn't sounding the way it should. I have to switch over to a different preset, then BACK to the AC30 one to make it sound normal again. Corrupt preset? That seems unlikely as I have just made it with the iPhone app and saved it directly to the Firehawk FX. Anyone ever experience this?
  23. Adovock

    Static Wall

    I spend most of my team using the Archetype Lead and German Ubersonic amps. I also really dig the US Deluxe Norm tone with the Vermin Dist pedal. When I play three+ string power chords, there is a very audible static wall mixed in with the sound. No matter where I move on the neck, the static keeps the same non-musical pitch, like when you'd turn to a bad channel on an old TV but higher pitched. I used this at my band's practice barn and this "fizz" overpowered my guitar while my buddy was also playing. My guess is that the distortion is making noises that have nowhere to go, so they just come out as static-sounding. It's just weird that the pitch of this "noise" stays the same. No static in clean tones. 1) How can I get rid of this annoyance? I've tried messing with the global settings, noise gates, and the input gate. I've tried messing with the drive, mids, and treble. Maybe I'm just bad! 2) Does this happen with Tube Amps, or is this just a digital issue? Thank you, Dan
  24. My POD HD 500X is connected to my Fender Blues Jr.3 via a regular guitar cable. If I hook up a guitar to it everything works fine. Sounds great. I just recently installed the Edit software and connected to my computer (Windows system) via USB cable. And now I am getting a horrible buzz out of my amp. It makes no difference if the POD is on or off. The second I unplug the usb cable out of the back of my POD it is quiet. This will give you an idea of the noise: https://soundcloud.com/matonanjin/noise I know this is not the fault of the POD. But I hope that there may be some electronics experts on here that can suggest where I start to resolve this. At some point I may want to start recording with my POD and DAW and I will have to figure this out.
  25. So I just got a new amp that finally allows me to use the 4cm. I have a blackstar HT 60 which is an amazing amp and I am using my POD 500x to run fx pre and post. My problem becomes that I get a slight hum whenever I insert the FX block into the chain. This hum stays even when I take the fx block into bypass mode or off and the hum stays it does not leave until I have the FX block deleted from the chain. I am unsure if this is an amp issue or Pod. I believe it to be the POD as this only happens when the FX block is added and is in bypass or off mode. I can put a noise gate up to block most of it but when you play you can faintly hear the hum underneath etc. I have used the 3cm method as that is what the Line 6 people recommended because I do not use amp modeling and this did allow me to use the three built in channels on the amp but then from what I have learned and messed with is that I lose the ability to put compression etc in front of the pre amp of the ht 60. I did manage to get the hum softer by not having those cables from the amp fx send and return not run parallel and have now upgraded those cables to balanced to also combat the signal hum but the hum is still slight and annoying. I would like to be able to run the amp as quiet and clean as possible without having to worrying about having enough blocks for the FX block, Noise gate etc. That eats up two blocks when I would much rather have it run as one block. Does anyone else have this same problem or have any insight of something to try to help combat this? Thanks
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