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  1. I'm getting some bit of weird noise with high gain amps, where it's humming if I'm not touching any metal part of the guitar, but goes away as soon as I touch the strings or bridge. I'm using headphone out to stereo amp & speakers, and just a guitar in cable... Getting the same with multiple guitars, and what's strange is that it does it even with humbuckers. It's almost like if there was a ground loop... Sure, noise gate does help, but it doesn't feel quite normal that I'm getting that much 'electrical' noise for no apparent reason... Any idea what could be causing it and is anyone getting the same thing?
  2. Alright so a bit of backstory. I got my hx stomp back in March, everything was fine until it started freezing up on me and when it froze I can’t switch patches. This would’ve been bad because my band has tons of different patches needed to play a set. Wasn’t a problem though because line 6 took care of me, I sent it back pre paid shipping, and they sent me a new one about 2 weeks later. Completely free, and since then it’s been great, no issues, it’s basically my amp and everything. Until today. I’ve been troubleshooting for awhile now and it has to be the hx stomp. Basically my cab just has a ton of static right now and noise. It’s so loud I can’t even hear my guitar over it. It’s never been like that. I tested all different cables, running straight into my power amp and checked everything, but every time I plug back into the hx stomp it gives off the noise. So I tried different guitars, cables, and in every type of configuration but still nothing. I tried changing wall outlets to see if that helped but nope. The only thing I haven’t done is update it to 2.8 but I’ve seen many reports of it breaking the helix so I’m waiting on that. Any help to figure this out is appreciated.
  3. Hi, I just recently move to PC from Mac, and when I tried connecting my HX stomp to the PC it created this static noise that I have attached. It doesn't matter where I plug the usb cable, front and back panel or USB hub, the result is the same. This problem doesn't happen when I connected it to my Macbook so I guess that maybe I connected something wrong inside the computer or some electrical problem. If anyone can Identify the source of the problem that would be very appreciated, thank you. HX USB NOISE.mp3
  4. Hi! I've recently bought a Helix Lt and I'm trying to make some settings, but I'm finding something curious in every one I made. I tried with Line6 Badonk amp + cab but when I palm mute I'm hearing a strange noise on the background while the volume is going down and then I added a noise gate, but still hearing that. Then, I tried with Archetype Lead and Revv Gen Red/Purple or even a Mandarin 80 and the noise is still there... The only way I've found to manage the noise is setting up a Hard Gate but it cuts the sound a lot... any idea? I let you here a clip that I recorded to show the problem: SoundCloud - Noise (recorded with Guitar direct to Helix LT, with input noise gate at Threshold -48dB, decay 10ms, Guitar In-Z Auto + Scream 808 with 0 gain, 6.5 tone, 10 level and Archetype Lead stock settings + Cali V30)
  5. Hello all, been struggling with this for quite sometime. Thanks for the help in advance. Setup is simple: Desktop connected via USB to POD. POD connected via 1/4" outs to JBL LSR305 studio monitors. I get an annoying electrical noise that is from my PC (it fluctuates when I move the mouse or start applications/games.) It also occurs regardless of the POD unit being on or off, only depends on the monitors being on and all connections in place back to the PC. When I use the XLR outs to the monitor the signal is clean again, but, using the XLR outs i understand I need to switch my monitor to the +4dbU setting. Unfortunately, this makes the volume very low (about 25% of what the monitors can do at the max.) When keeping them on the -10dbV setting, the volume is better, but clipping starts to happen. I also have a power conditioner from Furman, and have tried plugging everything into different outlets, same outlets, I even changed the Power Supply on my PC. No luck lol. Hopefully someone has another idea. Thanks again! -Dan
  6. Version française. Deutsche Version. A brief explanation of USB audio problems: Most USB audio problems are caused by data transfer interrupts on the USB stream that is feeding audio from the driver to the sound card. If there is a software/hardware interaction on your computer that adversely affects that data transfer, the result can be a white noise burst and/or popping and crackling from the audio device. Interrupts can also cause the device to stop functioning, which will require a system reboot for it to work again, but would not fix the problem long-term. USB interrupts generally do not affect most USB devices such as printers, keyboards, mouse, etc., as these devices use a USB bulk mode of transfer and do not produce noticeable problems if data is interrupted. It should be noted that the complicated interaction of hardware and software on differently configured systems will produce different results, including failure with a small number of computers, regardless of device or manufacturer. The successful use of the USB audio hardware on another computer usually indicates that a problem with the original system needs to be addressed. There is no one-size-fits-all resolution to ensure error-free performance of audio devices on computers, but most USB interrupts can be resolved by one or all of these actions that we have seen help other users: 1. Use the latest Line 6 device drivers. Download them from http://line6.com/software/ or use Line 6 Monkey to update them. Follow the below links on how to uninstall drivers should you need to: Mac OS Systems Windows Systems 2. Optimize your computer system for audio: See our Knowledge Base items below to learn how: Computer System Audio Optimization Windows Vista / 7 / 8 Tweaks and Optimizations Also, here is a good tool to use to update your system drivers: http://www.driverupdate.net/ 3. Test all cables to make sure that they are not defective. Use the shortest cable possible. Ensure that they are properly connected. 4. Remove USB hubs from your system: Line 6 does not support the use of USB hubs for any Line 6 product. USB hubs can also cause white noise or audio interrupts. Please disconnect the hub and plug your USB cable directly into a USB port on the back of your computer if you are using a USB hub. Mac users: Make sure you are connecting directly to your computer and not your keyboard, which acts essentially as a USB hub. 5. Adjust the buffer size, sample rate and bit depth in the Line 6 Audio MIDI Control Panel: PC: Start > control panel> select classic view if you are in category mode > Line 6 Audio and MIDI devices Mac: Apple > System Preferences > Other > Line 6 Audio and MIDI devices The driver console will display a Buffer Size slider that you can adjust towards EXTRA SMALL, MEDIUM, or LARGE. Please first move this slider to MEDIUM or LARGE to see if this helps. Your objective is to have little or no latency while eliminating that white noise. Optionally, adjust the sample rate and bit depth settings to match the project settings in your recording application. For more information on these settings, please see The Line 6 Audio-MIDI Control Panel FAQ. 6. Disable wireless networking devices: On some CPU configurations, actively using wireless networking/connectivity while streaming (recording/playing)computer audio can impact the fidelity of the audio streams (e.g. noise or artifacts are heard in the audio while using wireless connectivity). 7. Change Power Options: Change the Power Options on your computer (PC's only). On Windows XP: To change the Power Schemes, go to Start/Settings/Control Panel/Power Options/. Change power schemes to "Always On". Also change all of the Always On Power Scheme settings to "never". On Windows 7: - Go to the computer's Control Panel - 'View By' in top right corner should be changed to large or small icons. - Select Power Options below - On the left side of the screen, select 'Create a Power Plan' - Select the 'High Performance' plan and hit 'Next' - On the next page just hit 'Create' - Next to your newly created Power Plan, click on Change Plan settings - Click on 'Change Advanced Power Settings' - In this new window, select your power plan, and go through the settings below it individually to manage your computer for best performance. - Under Hard Disk, set turn off hard disk after 'never.' - Under USB Settings, set USB selective suspend setting to 'Disabled.' - After making all these changes, click on 'Apply' and 'OK.' - Reboot the computer and test the performance of your USB audio. On Windows 8: - Press the Windows Key on you keyboard to access the Start Windows screen. - Right Click an empty space and select 'All Apps' from the bottom right hand corner. - Scroll over to the far right of the App screen and under Windows System, select 'Control Panel' - 'View By' in top right corner should be changed to large or small icons. - Select Power Options below - On the left side of the screen, select 'Create a Power Plan' - Select the 'High Performance' plan and hit 'Next' - On the next page just hit 'Create' - Next to your newly created Power Plan, click on Change Plan settings - Click on 'Change Advanced Power Settings' - In this new window, select your power plan, and go through the settings below it individually to manage your computer for best performance. - Under Hard Disk, set turn off hard disk after 'never.' - Under USB Settings, set USB selective suspend setting to 'Disabled.' - After making all these changes, click on 'Apply' and 'OK.' - Reboot the computer and test the performance of your USB audio. 8. Set your Line 6 device as the main sound card on your system: See these Knowledge Base items to learn how: Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows XP Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows Vista / 7 / 8 Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Mac Computer 9. Purchase a PCI based USB card (desktops) or PCMCIA USB card (laptops): These cards often solve the problem of white noise, communication issues and other problems because the USB implementation on these cards overrides the many times less robust USB bus built into your computer. For more information on PCI Cards please visit PCI CARD For more optimization tips, see Computer System Audio Optimization knowledge base article. Chipset Error Explanation: If the computer fails to meet standard USB requirements, a possible result the soundcard creates a "white noise burst" at the analog audio outputs. This is caused by a flaw in some USB chipsets that were manufactured by Intel using the ICH6 architecture. The chipsets we have verified as having this problem are the 915G, 915P and 925X chipsets, although others may be affected as well. Intel publishes on their web site an Errata that provides a more detailed explanation. Please note that computers that create this problem produce issues with all USB 1.1 audio interfaces, not just those manufactured by Line 6. For instance, Digidesign provides their customers with similar information on this Intel chipset problem. Also note that your computer may have this problem even if other USB devices seem to behave normally. This is because other USB devices (like USB printers and hard drives) generally use USB's bulk mode of transfer, and do not produce noticeable problems if data is momentarily interrupted, as on these problem Intel chipsets. USB 1.1 audio devices, which have to continually input and output audio data at a fixed sample rate to provide audio, require USB's isochronous transfer mode, which is intended to guarantee the steady flow of data that is required for audio. These Intel chipsets fail to consistently provide the continuous data flow required for the isochronous mode and audio. If you want to know if your chipset is one of the affected ones, go to this link and download the program CPU-Z 1.30. This program will gather detailed info on your CPU. Once downloaded, run the program, select the "Mainboard" tab and note the information where it says "Chipset" (e.g. Intel i915PM/GM/GMS Rev 03). Solution: We do not have a solution that ensures proper performance on these computers. The most successful workaround we have found is adding a PCI based USB card (to desktop computers with these chipsets) or a CardBus or PCMCIA USB controller card (for laptops with these chipsets). Once these cards are installed, these computers often stop exhibiting the "white noise burst" problem, because the USB implementation on these cards overrides the flawed built-in USB implementation of the computers. Note: ISA motherboards operate at lower bus speeds, and can slow down your computer and can sometimes cause "clicks" in the audio. We recommend using a non-ISA board. 10. Try a Powered USB Hub: Line 6 cannot support the use of powered USB hubs as they can cause connection issues with our server through our software such as Line 6 Monkey or License Manager. Powered hubs can also create connection issues between our devices and our drivers. However, there have been a few cases where powered hubs actually resolve pops and clicks on certain laptops where the USB ports may not be providing enough power to the Line 6 audio interface. This would typically work with Line 6 audio interfaces that are powered via USB IE: UX1, UX2, KB37. 11. Remove all unused USB drivers: The program USBDeview is a small utility that lists all USB devices that are currently connected to your computer, as well as all USB devices that you previously used. It can be downloaded at: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html Advanced Troubleshooting: As stated previously, some hardware/software configurations simply will not work together, so Line 6 cannot guarantee that any of these adjustments will work on any given computer. We have seen these techniques work for other users who are experienced with advanced computer adjustments. Perform these advanced procedures at your own risk. In some cases, the ultimate resolution was to replace the computer. BIOS Performance Settings: We have seen BIOS settings, especially power management settings such as ACPI, help with audio performance issues. On most Windows computers, you can adjust the BIOS settings by pressing the F10 key as the computer boots up. Check with your PC's documentation for information on how to enter the BIOS settings. In some BIOS, a setting called "SpeedStep" may be enabled. Similar settings to SpeedStep are "EIST Function" (or *Power Now* or *Cool n' Quiet*). Speedstep is an Intel efficiency tool that enables the CPU to speed up and slow down according to the load put on it. However it also changes the voltages running through the CPU accordingly and may cause crackles when the CPU steps up and down. Go into BIOS settings and disable the "SpeedStep" and C1E settings. C1E is the auto voltage setting that is usually enabled along with Speedstep. This should set the CPU to run at its fixed maximum speed with no voltage changes. Here is a link to a page with further BIOS setting recommendations: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/bios-beginners,1126-8.html DPC Latency (IRQ hogging): Use Thesycon's DPC Latency Checker (www.thesycon.de/eng/latency_check.shtml) to help detect the possible presence of a hardware device that occasionally takes more than its fair share of interrupt time by displaying latency intervals. Troubleshooting involves disabling hardware one item at a time, then running the Latency Checker each time until the latency subsides in the checker. Replendence LatencyMon: LatencyMon (http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon) checks if a system is suitable for processing real time audio by measuring DPC and ISR excecution times as well as hard pagefaults. It will provide a comprehensible report and find the kernel modules and processes responsible for causing audio latencies which result in drop outs. It also provides the functionality of an ISR monitor, DPC monitor and a hard pagefault monitor. Note: Be sure to read some of the possible root causes for pops and clicks that the developer of this software offers up under the description of this tool. Some of these advanced tips may help you resolve your issue. Registry cleaning: Remnants of old installs may bog down system performance. OS Reinstall: Complete fresh install of your Operating System in the event certain essential OS files or settings have gone bad. Hard Drive Reformat: Reformat the hard drive to clean out the registry and remove any problem-causing files. Reinstalling the OS and other applications after a reformat of hard drive may repair previously unfixable problems, and may improve system performance. USB Bus Corruption/Power Issues: Generally, if you have an IRQ problem, increasing buffer sizes should fix it or at least improve it. If the problem has something to do with USB bus corruption, or a problem with power, then increasing the buffer sizes wouldn't change anything. It is possible that your USB audio issues are being caused by a corrupt or underpowered USB bus on your computer. We recommend that you consult with a qualified computer technician to verify if this is the case. Be advised that most technicians aren't properly equipped to deal with such an in-depth technical issue. They may suggest replacing the motherboard, but that may not fix it unless the replacement is a known working model. This is because the problems stem from design issues on the motherboard and will be common to all motherboards of that revision and model. USB Audio: Fehlerbehebung: Eine kurze Erklärung zu USB Audio Problemen: Die meisten USB Audio Probleme werden durch Abrisse im Datenfluss des USB Signals, welches ein Audiosignal vom Treiber zur Soundkarte schickt, verursacht. Sollte Software oder Hardware den Datentransfer negativ beeinflussen, kann als Resultat ein Rauschen, Krachen oder Knistern entstehen. Solche Einflüsse können außerdem dafür sorgen, dass das Gerät aufhört zu funktionieren, wofür Sie das System dann neustarten müssen damit es wieder funktioniert. Dies würde das Problem jedoch nicht langfristig lösen. Solche Abrisse im Datentransfer sind für die meisten USB Geräte kein Problem (so wie Drucker, Tastaturen, Mäuse,...), da diese Geräte mit einem Paketmodus arbeiten und somit keinen durchgehenden Datenfluss brauchen. Die komplexe Interaktion zwischen Hardware und Software auf verschieden konfigurierten Systemen kann verschiedenste Resultate haben, dazu gehören auch wenige Ausfälle mit Computern, egal mit welchem Gerät dieser verbunden wird. Die erfolgreiche Nutzung eines USB Audio Gerätes auf einem anderen Computer bedeutet meist, dass ein Problem mit dem ursprünglichen Computer besteht. Es gibt keine Einheitslösung für die fehlerfreie Nutzung von Audio Geräten mit dem Computer, aber die meisten Fehler in Verbindung mit USB können anhand folgender Maßnahmen behoben werden: 1. Benutzen Sie den neusten Line 6 Gerätetreiber. Laden Sie diesen hier herunter oder benutzen Sie Ihre Line 6 Monkey Software um ihn zu aktualisieren. Häufig gestellte Fragen zur Deinstallation der Treiber finden Sie hier. 2. Optimieren Sie Ihren Computer zur Audionutzung. Wie Sie dies schaffen können Sie in den folgenden Artikeln unserer Knowledge Base lernen: Optimierung des Computersystems Video Tutorial: Windows Vista/7 Optimierung (Achtung: Nur in Englisch) 3. Überprüfen Sie alle Kabel auf deren Funktionsfähigkeit. Benutzen Sie das kürzeste verfügbare Kabel. Stecken Sie es korrekt ein. 4. Ziehen Sie alle USB Hubs ab: Line 6 unterstützt die Nutzung von USB Hubs nicht. Für kein Produkt. USB Hubs können Rauschen oder Abrisse verursachen. Bitte entfernen Sie jegliche Hubs und verbinden Sie das USB Kabel sofort mit einem USB Port auf der Rückseite Ihres Computers. Mac: Bitte verbinden Sie Ihr Gerät sofort mit dem Mac und nicht mit der Tastatur, da diese auch nur ein USB Hub ist. 5. Stellen Sie die Buffer Größe, Sample Rate und Bit Depth im Line6 MIDI Control Panel ein: PC: Start > Systemsteuerung > wählen Sie die klassische Ansicht > Line 6 Audio and MIDI Devices Mac: Apple > Systemeinstellungen > Other > Line 6 Audio and MIDI Devices Das Fenster des Treibers wird Ihnen einen Buffer Size Regler anzeigen, den Sie auf EXTRA SMALL, MEDIUM, oder LARGE einstellen können. Schalten Sie diesen Regler erst einmal auf MEDIUM oder LARGE um zu sehen ob dies hilft. Versuchen Sie hier sowenig wie möglich oder keine Latenz mehr zu haben während das Rauschen verschwindet. Optional können Sie auch die Sample Rate und Bit Depth Einstellungen so vornehmen, dass diese den Projekteinstellungen Ihrer Aufnahmesoftware entsprechen. Für mehr Informationen können Sie hier klicken. 6. Schalten Sie Geräte mit kabellosen Netzwerken aus: Auf manchen Prozessoren, die eine aktive kabellose Netzwerkverbindung haben, kann während des Aufnehmens/Abspielens die Genauigkeit des Audiosignals beeinträchtigt werden. (z.B. kann man dann Lärm oder Artefakte im Ton hören.) 7. Ändern Sie Ihre Energieoptionen: Ändern Sie die Energieoptionen Ihres Computers (nur PC). Start > Systemsteuerung > Energieoptionen. Ändern Sie hier das Energieschema auf "Immer an". Schalten Sie außerdem alle Einstellungen dieses Schemas auf "Nie". 8. Wählen Sie Ihr Line 6 Gerät als Standard Soundkarte Ihres Computers anhand der folgenden Artikel in unserer Knowledge Base: Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows XP Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows Vista Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Mac Computer (Achtung, bis jetzt nur in Englisch.) 9. Kaufen Sie eine PCI USB Karte (Desktop Computer) oder PCMCIA USB Karte (Laptop): Diese Karten lösen oft das Problem des Rauschens, lösen Kommunikationsprobleme und andere Probleme da diese den weniger robusten USB Bus Kontroller Ihres Computers überschreiben. Für mehr Informationen über PCI Karten klicken Sie hier. Chipsatz Fehlerbeschreibung: Falls der Computer die standard USB Voraussetzungen nicht erfüllt kann es sein, dass Ihre Soundkarte am Analog Audio Ausgang ein Rauschen erzeugt. Dieser Fehler entsteht aufgrund eines USB Chipsatzes, der von Intel anhand der ICH6 Architektur hergestellt wurde. Die folgenden Chipsätze stellten sich als fehlerhaft heraus: 915G, 915P und 925X, obwohl auch andere Chipsätze diesen Fehler eventuell erzeugen können. Intel hat auf dessen Webseite eine detailliertere Erklärung zu diesem Problem veröffentlicht. Achtung, Computer mit diesem Soundproblem haben dieses mit allen USB 1.1 Audio Geräten, nicht nur mit Line 6 Geräten. Ihr Computer könnte dieses Problem sogar haben wenn all Ihre anderen USB Geräte normal funktionieren. Die meisten anderen USB Geräte benutzen einen Pakettransfer über USB und haben somit dieses Problem nicht wenn der Datenfluss unterbrochen wird, da diese kein durchgehendes Signal brauchen im Gegensatz zu Audiogeräten. USB 1.1 Audio Geräte brauchen einen durchgehenden Datenfluss ansonsten kommt es sofort zu Problemen, wie bei diesen Intel Chipsätzen. Audio Geräte, die eine festgelegte Samplerate benutzen und so ein durchgehendes Input/Output Signal über USB brauchen benutzen die isochrone Übertragung des USBs, welche den durchgehenden Datenfluss garantieren soll. Die hier genannten Intel Chipsätze können jedoch keinen kontinuierlichen Datenfluss gewährleisten. Wenn Sie wissen wollen ob Ihr Chipsatz einer der betroffenen ist, folgen Sie diesem Link und laden sich die CPU-Z Software herunter. Dieses Programm wird detaillierte Informationen über Ihren Prozessor sammeln. Starten Sie das Programm, klicken Sie auf "Mainboard" und notieren Sie sich was unter "Chipset" geschrieben steht. (z.B. Intel i915PM/GM/GMS Rev 03) Lösung: Wir können für dieses Problem leider keine Universallösung anbieten, eine PCI USB Karte zu verwenden hat bei diesem Problem jedoch die höchste Erfolgsrate. (für den Computer mit diesen Chipsätzen, ansonsten eine CardBus oder PCMCIA USB Karte für Laptops mit diesen Chipsätzen). Sobald eine dieser Karten installiert ist kommt es auf betroffenen Systemen oftmals nicht mehr zum Rauschen da diese Karte dann die standard USB Implementierung Ihres Computers überschreibt. Notiz: ISA Mainboards verwenden eine niedrige Bus Geschwindigkeit und können so Ihren Computer verlangsamen, was zu Klicks im Ton führen kann. Wir empfehlen kein ISA Mainboard zu benutzen. 10. Versuchen Sie es mit einem USB Hub mit eigener Stromversorgung: Line 6 unterstützt die Nutzung eines USB Hubs nicht, da diese Verbindungsprobleme mit unserem Server durch unsere Software wie Monkey oder License Manager verursachen können. Außerdem können USB Hubs mit Stromversorgung Verbindungsprobleme zwischen unseren Geräten und deren Treibern verursachen. Trotzdem hatten wir Fälle in denen USB Hubs mit Stromversorgung Klicks und Knacken auf manchen Laptops entfernt haben da verschiedene normale USB Ports vielleicht nicht ausreichend Strom für das Line 6 Gerät zur Verfügung stellen. Das würde dann typischerweise mit Line 6 USB Geräten funktionieren wie UX1, UX2 oder KB37. 11. Entfernen Sie jegliche unbenutzten USB Treiber: Das Programm USBDeview ist ein kleines Programm mit dem Sie sich alle USB Geräte auflisten lassen können, die verbunden sind und die zu einem früheren Zeitpunkt mit Ihrem Computer verbunden wurden. Sie können es hier herunterladen. Fortgeschrittene Problembehebung: Wie schon vorher beschrieben, funktionieren manche Software/Hardware Konfigurationen nicht miteinander, was bedeutet, dass Line 6 nicht dafür garantieren kann, dass diese Veränderungen bei Ihnen funktionieren. Bei manchen Benutzern haben diese Einstellungen jedoch bereits funktioniert. Sie führen diese Einstellungen auf eigene Gefahr durch. In manchen Fällen war die letzte Möglichkeit der Ersatz des Computers. BIOS Leistungseinstellungen: Wir haben verschiedene BIOS Einstellungen gesehen, besonders Energiemanagement Einstellungen wie ACPI, die bei Audioproblemen geholfen haben. Auf den meisten Windows Computern kann man das BIOS anhand der F10 Taste während des Startens des Computers aufrufen. Überprüfen Sie Ihre Quellen zu Ihrem Computer um herauszufinden wie Sie das BIOS öffnen. Bei manchen BIOS muss man eine Einstellung namens "SpeedStep" abschalten. Ähnliche Einstellungen sind die "EIST Function", "Power Now" oder "Cool'n'Quiet". Speedstep ist ein Tool von Intel, welches den Prozessor schneller oder langsamer macht je nach Benutzung. Es ändert jedoch die Spannungszufuhr, die Ihr Prozessor erhält und kann zu Knistern führen wenn der Prozessor langsamer oder schneller wird. Gehen Sie in Ihre BIOS Einstellungen und schalten Sie die "Speedstep" und C1E Einstellungen aus. C1E ist eine automatische Spannungseinstellung die meist mit Speedstep angeschaltet wird. Durch diese Einstellung sollte Ihr CPU nun auf fixierter Maximalgeschwindigkeit laufen ohne Spannungsschwankungen. Klicken Sie hier für weitere BIOS Einstellungen. DPC Latenz (IRQ hogging): Benutzen Sie den DPC Latency Checker (www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml) um zu überprüfen ob ein Teil Ihrer Hardware mehr Latenz hat als normalerweise, indem es Ihnen alle Latenz Intervalle anzeigt. Problemlösung hierzu bedeutet ein Gerät vom Computer entfernen und mit dem Tool überprüfen ob die Latenz nachlässt. Replendence LatencyMon: LatencyMon (http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon) überprüft ob Ihr System für Echtzeit Audio geeignet ist indem es DPC und ISR Ausführungszeiten und hard pagefaults überprüft. Es führt einen ausführlichen Bericht aus und wird die Hauptprobleme für Audiolatenzen finden. Außerdem dient es als ISR Monitor, DPC Monitor und hard pagefault Monitor. Achtung, lesen Sie die möglichen Gründe für Klicks und Knacken, die der Entwickler der Software unter der Beschreibung des Programms bereitgestellt hat, durch. Manche dieser Tipps könnten Ihnen bei der Problemlösung helfen. Registry Cleaning: Überbleibsel alter Installationen könnten Ihr System beeinträchtigen. Neuinstallation des Betriebssystems: Komplette Neuinstallation Ihres Computers falls essentielle Dateien oder Einstellungen Ihres Betriebssystems korrupt sind. Korruption des USB Bus und Energie Probleme: Im Allgemeinen sollte eine Vergrößerung der Buffer Größe IRQ Probleme lösen oder verbessern. Sollte das System in Zusammenhang stehen mit USB Bus Korruption oder Problemen mit der Stromversorgung wird die Veränderung der Buffer Größe keinen Unterschied machen. Es wäre möglich, dass Ihre USB Audio Probleme durch einen kaputten oder mit nicht ausreichend Strom versorgten USB Bus Ihres Computers hervorgerufen werden. Wir empfehlen das Konsultieren eines qualifizierten Computertechnikers um diesen Fall zu untersuchen. Bitte nehmen Sie zur Kenntnis, dass die meisten Techniker nicht für solch ein tiefgehendes technisches Problem ausgerüstet sind. Es könnte sein, dass diese Ihnen raten das Mainboard zu ersetzen, was nicht unbedingt das Problem löst, da diese Probleme oft Konstruktionsprobleme der Mainboardreihe sind und oftmals bei mehreren Mainboards gleich sind. USB Audio: Résolution de problèmes: Une explication courte concernant les problèmes USB audio: La plupart des problèmes USB audio sont causés par des interruptions du flux de données du signal USB qui transfère un signal audio du pilote à la carte de son. Si logiciel ou hardware nuisent le flux de données, le résultat peut-être un bruit, craquer ou crépiter. Ces influences peuvent aussi cesser l'appareil. Vous devez redémarrer votre système pour temporairement fixer ce problème. Ces interruptions du flux de données sont aucun problème pour la plupart d'appareils USB (comme imprimante, clavier, souris,…) parce que ces appareils travaillent avec un mode paquet donc n'ont pas besoin d'un flux de données. Cette interaction complexe entre le logiciel et le hardware sur des systèmes différemment configurés peut avoir des résultats très différents ce qui inclut des échecs avec des ordinateurs connecté aves n'importe quel appareil. L'utilisation avec succès sur un autre ordinateur veut dire généralement qu'il y en a un problème avec l'ordinateur d'origine. Il y en a aucune solution parfaite pour ces problèmes audio mais les pluparts des erreurs en association avec USB peuvent être résous avec ces mesures: 1. Utilisez le plus nouveau pilote Line 6 pour votre appareil. Téléchargez et installez-le de ce site web ou utilisez le logiciel Line 6 Monkey pour cette mise à jour. Ici vous pouvez trouver la foire des questions concernant la désinstallation des pilotes. 2. Optimisez votre ordinateur pour l'utilisation audio. Vous pouvez trouver comment optimiser votre ordinateur dans les articles suivants de notre Knowledge Base: Optimisation des systèmes ordinateurs / Vidéo tutoriel: Optimisation Windows Vista et 7 (Attention, Anglais uniquement) 3. Vérifiez tous les câbles s'ils fonctionnent correctement. Utilisez le câble le plus court. Insérez-le correctement. 4. Détachez tous les hubs USB: Line 6 ne soutienne pas l'utilisation des hubs USB pour aucun produit. Les hubs USB peuvent générer des bruits ou interruptions. Détachez tous les hubs USB et connectez votre câble USB directement à un port USB en arrière de votre ordinateur. Mac: Veuillez connectez l'appareil directement au Mac et pas au clavier. Le clavier est un hub USB. 5. Réglez le "Buffer Size", "Sample Rate" et "Bit Depth" dans le menu Line 6 MIDI Control Panel: PC: Démarrer > Panneau de configuration > choisissez la vue classique > Line 6 Audio and MIDI Devices Mac: Apple > Préférences Système > Other > Line 6 Audio and MIDI Devices La fenêtre du pilote vous montrera le contrôleur "Buffer Size", lequel vous pouvez mettre sur EXTRA, SMALL, MEDIUM et LARGE. Mettez-le sur MEDIUM ou LARGE et voyez si cette option aide. Essayez de réduire la latence pendant le bruit disparaît. Optionnellement, vous pouvez régler la Sample Rate ou Bit Depth jusqu'à ceux correspondent aux règlements du projet de votre logiciel d'enregistrement. Pour des informations supplémentaires; cliquez ici. 6. Éteignez les appareils aux réseaux sans fil: Sur certains processeurs, qui ont une connexion de réseau sans fil active, la précision du signal audio peut nuire pendant lire/enregistrer. (par exemple: on peut entendre du bruit ou artéfacts) 7. Changez vos réglages d'énergie: Changez les options d'alimentation de votre ordinateur (PC uniquement). Démarrer > Panneau de configuration > Options d'alimentation. Changez tous à "Jamais". 8. Choisissez votre appareil Line 6 comme carte de son de votre ordinateur en utilisant les articles suivants de notre Knowledge base: Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows XP Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Windows Vista Computer Assigning your Line 6 Device as a Sound Card on your Mac Computer (Attention tous en anglais) 9. Achetez une carte PCI USB (ordinateur desktop) ou carte PSMCIA USB (portable): Ces cartes résolvent souvent le problème du bruit ou de communication mais aussi d'autres problèmes parce qu'ils remplacent le contrôleur USB faible de votre ordinateur. Pour des informations supplémentaires, cliquez ici. Description d'erreur chipset: Si l'ordinateur ne satisfait pas aux préalables c'est possible que votre carte de son cause un bruit à la sortie audio. Cette erreur est causée par un chipset USB fabriqué avec l'architecture ICH6 de Intel. Les chipsets suivants sont défectueux: 915G, 915P et 925X. Des autres chipsets peuvent être touchés également. Intel a publié une explication détaillée concernant ce problème. Attention, les ordinateurs qui ont ce problème l'ont avec tous les appareils USB 1.1, pas seulement avec les appareils Line 6. Votre ordinateur pourrait avoir ce problème même si tous les autres appareils USB fonctionnent correctement. La plupart des appareils USB utilisent le transfert de paquet et n'ont pas ce problème si le flux de données est interrompu parce qu'ils n'ont pas besoin d'un flux contrairement aux appareils audio. Les appareils audio USB 1.1 ont besoin de ce signal ou des problèmes apparaissent directement comme avec les chipsets Intel ci-dessus. Les appareils audio utilisant une Sample Rate fixé ont besoin d'un flux de données via USB et utilisent la transmission isochrone. Les chipsets Intel ci-dessus n'assurent pas ce signal isochrone. Si vous voulez savoir quel chipset est dans votre ordinateur, utilisez ce lien et téléchargez le logiciel CPU-Z. Ce programme vous donne des informations détaillées de votre processeur. Démarrez ce programme, cliquez sur "Mainboard" et notez qu'est-ce qui est écrit sous "Chipset". (Par exemple Intel i915PM/GM/GMS Rev 03) Solution: Nous ne pouvons pas offrir une solution parfaite pour ce problème mais l'utilisation d'une carte PCI USB a un taux de réussite élevé. (Pour les ordinateurs avec ces chipsets. Vous avez besoin d'une carte CardBus ou PCMCIA USB pour les portables avec ces chipsets) Une fois cette carte est installée, le bruit disparaît souvent des systèmes, parce que la carte remplace l'USB standard de votre ordinateur. Note: Les cartes mère ISA utilisent une vitesse Bus faible et peuvent ralentir votre ordinateur, que peut conduire à un clic dans le son. Nous recommandons de ne pas utiliser les cartes mère ISA. 10. Essayez un hub USB alimenté: Line 6 ne soutient pas les hubs USB parce qu'ils peuvent causer des problèmes de connexion entre notre serveur et nos logiciels comme Monkey ou License Manager. Les hubs USB peuvent également causer de problèmes de connexion entre nos appareils et ces pilotes. Mais nous avons eu des cas ou un hub USB avec alimentation a éliminé les problèmes du son parce que certains ports USB n'ont pas l'énergie requise. Ca peut fonctionner typiquement avec les appareils USB de Line 6 comme UX1, UX2 ou KB37. 11. Supprimez tous les pilotes USB inutilisés: Le programme USBDeview est un programme qui liste tous les appareils USB connecté à votre ordinateur et qui ont été connectés à votre ordinateur. Vous le pouvez télécharger ici. Résolution avancée des problèmes: Line 6 ne peut pas garantir que ces réglages fonctionnent pour vous parce qu'il y en a des configurations logiciel/hardware qui simplement ne fonctionnent pas. Mais, chez certains utilisateurs, ces modifications ont déjà fonctionnés. Vous faites ces réglages de votre seule responsabilité. Pour certains cas, un nouvel ordinateur était la dernière possibilité. Réglages de performance BIOS: Nous avons vu certaines configurations BIOS particulièrement des réglages d'alimentation comme ACPI, qui ont résous des problèmes audio. Sur la majorité des ordinateurs Windows, on peut ouvrir le BIOS en appuyant F10 pendant le démarrage de l'ordinateur. Vérifiez votre documentation de l'ordinateur pour découvrir comment vous pouvez ouvrir le BIOS sur votre ordinateur. Pour quelques BIOS, on doit désactiver l'option "SpeedStep". Des options similaires sont "EIST function", "Power Now" ou "Cool'n'Quiet". Speedstep est un outil d'Intel qui ralentit ou accélère le processeur selon l'utilisation. Cet outil change la tension d'alimentation du processeur et peut faire des crépitements si le processeur devient plus rapide ou lent. Ouvrez votre configuration BIOS et éteignez "Speedstep" et l'ajustement C1E. C1E est un réglage pour la configuration automatique de la tension, ce réglage est activé avec Speedstep. Avec cette configuration, votre processeur tourne sur vitesse maximale sans fluctuations de tension. Cliquez ici pour des configurations supplémentaires BIOS. Latence DPC (IRQ hogging): Utilisez le DPC Latency Checker (http://www.thesycon.de/eng/latency_check.shtml) pour vérifier si une pièce du hardware a une latence trop élevée que normalement. Ce programme vous montre tous les intervalles de latences. Résolution du problème sera de détacher un appareil de votre ordinateur et vérifiez si la latence diminue. Replendence LatencyMon: LatencyMon (http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon) vérifie si votre système est approprié pour audio en temps réel en vérifiant les latences DPC, ISR et les pagefaults. Ce programme réalise un rapport détaillé et trouvera les problèmes principaux des latences audio. Ce programme est aussi un moniteur ISR, DPC et hard pagefault. Attention, veuillez lire les causes possibles pour craquer et cliquer que le développeur offert sous la description du programme. Certains conseils pourraient vous aider. Registry Cleaning: Les restes des installations anciennes pourraient nuire votre système. Réinstallation du système d'exploitation: Réinstallation entièrement de votre ordinateur si des fichiers ou configurations sont corrompus. Corruption des Bus USB ou problèmes d'alimentation: En général, une augmentation de la largeur Buffer peut résoudre ou améliorer des problèmes IRQ. Si votre système a un problème de corruption USB bus ou avec l'alimentation, cette réglage du buffer ne aura aucun effet. C'est possible que votre problème USB audio soit à cause d'un USB bus cassé ou s'il n'obtient pas assez d'énergie. Nous recommandons de consulter un ingénieur en informatique qualifié pour enquêter ce problème. Attention, la plupart des techniciens ne sont pas équipé pour ses problèmes spécifiques. C'est possible qu'ils vous disent de remplacer la carte mère mais ca résous pas nécessairement votre problème parce que ces problèmes sont souvent des problèmes de construction d'une série de modèles. Donc ce problème pourra persister.
  7. Hi, I'm in doubt of buying Helix Native. I used the trial version for a week now and I love the sounds. I only just can't seem to get rid of a high noise level in hi-gain sounds. I already searched this forum and watched youtube video's for help on this topic. I have made a recording with a comparisation of my Helix Floor board and the Native plug-in. I made sure that the settings in both Native and Helix Floor are the same. In the recording I used the signal: input > Scream 808 > Archetype Lead The recording is made in Cubase, via a Steinberg CI2 with Hi-Z and real low input gain. In Helix Native the input meter stays under -12 dB. In the recording you hear: 0:00 - 0:17 > Helix Native 0:18 - 0:34 > Helix Floor 0:34 - 0:35 > Helix Native background noise without playing 0:36 - 0:37 > Helix Floor background noise without playing I'm might still do something wrong, it doesn't seem normal Helix Native gives so much background noise compared to the Floorboard. I still have 6 days of Trial version left. Hopefully any of you guys can help me with the noise-problem so I get convinced in buying a copy of Native. Test Native vs Helix Floor.mp3
  8. Hi everyone. I'm using the following setup: Guitar to helix, 4 cable method to Carvin Legacy VL300 amp, amp to Carvin Legacy 412 cab, and xlr outputs to mixer then stereo cabs. I'm also feeding a stereo loop pedal via sends 3 and 4. So: Guitar -> Helix guitar in -> Helix Send 1 -> Amp In -> Amp Send -> Helix Return 1 -> Helix Send 2 -> Amp Return (i use the send 2 instead of the 1/4" out because this way the volume is not affected by the helix volume knob). Also: Helix Xlr Outs to mixer, and Sends 3 and 4 to Loop Pedal, then mixer. You can see the scheme in the picture Problem is, when i plug the guitar straight to the amp, there's no noise, no hum, everything clear on all chanels. When i plug the guitar to helix straight to mixer, with amp simulations, no noise, no hum, everything clear. When i use the 4CM, lots of noise. You can hear it in the video. first guitar straight to amp. then plug the guitar to helix guitar in, and the remaining 3 cables. And you'll hear the diference... https://youtu.be/D6eNThp-BkM Already tried: -change all the cables, audio and power. -plug the power to diferente places, then same place. -change the outs from line to instrument, and vice-versa. Nothing works. Any guesses??
  9. Q: I am getting strange noises when I use my Variax. What can I do? - Piezo pickups can be susceptible to Radio Frequencies and Electro-Magnetic Frequencies. Keep cell phones, radios, and computer gear as far away as possible. - Use the highest quality cables you can afford. Be sure to use a high-quality shielded TRS (tip-ring-sleeve) cable if you are using the Line 6 XPS. - Make sure the jack on the instrument is tight and the ribbon cable is seated at the coffin assembly and the jack correctly. - Experiment with lowering the gain on the presets you are using, or using the noise gate when available. - Turn your volume knob off when you are not playing (even during stops in a song when possible). - Experiment with distance and position between your guitar and sound source (amplifier and/or computer speakers). - Avoid florescent lighting when possible. - Make sure that your rig is plugged into the same power source as the rest of your gear/band/PA system (to avoid ground loops). Q: Can I use altered tuning with the 12-string models? A: The processor on the Variax cannot provide 12-string emulation in addition to altered tunings. Although a 12-string modeled guitar can be "altered", once the model is altered the 12 string modeling will revert to 6 string modeling. Line 6 does not reccomend using 12-string models for altered tunings. Attached is a Word document containing advice and tips on alternate tunings with your Variax for downloading purposes. They are also included in the body of this FAQ. You can also visit our website and read some helpful How-to Articles about alternate tuning tips. *Four Variax Alternate Tuning Tips* With the development of Variax Workbench software, you can now tune your Variax electric to any alternate tuning you like. The Variax Acoustic 700 has this feature built into the guitar itself. With the physical Variax tuned to standard pitch, however, the Variax DSP must create the alternate tunings in real time, note by note as you play. This is no easy task, and as with any developing technology, there are limitations. To get the best musical experience from your alt-tuned Variax, please check out the following four Alternate Tuning Tips. They address the most frequently asked questions of Variax owners. 1. Guitar Volume Balance: If you hear the standard tuning of your physical Variax along with the alt-tuning, your ears may be fooled into thinking the alt-tuning is out of tune. This is especially true for Acoustic 700 owners, but the solution is easy. In a studio situation, turn up your headphones; in a live situation, turn up the volume of your alt-tuned guitar amp or stage monitor so that it drowns out the physical guitar sound. When you adjust your guitar volume balance so that all you hear is the alt-tuned guitar, your alt-tuning will sound the way you expect it to. 2. Odd-Sounding Notes: If you use pull-offs, especially on an open G string that's tuned down a full step or more, or if you use Capo mode and tune several frets up or down and play harmonics or hammer-ons, you may sometimes hear odd-sounding notes. The general cure for this is to adjust your playing technique so that you play very cleanly when doing pull-offs, play with a lighter touch on extremely alt-tuned notes and harmonics, fret your notes accurately, and avoid any problem zones that may produce odd sounds. It's not difficult to get clean-sounding alt-tuning tracks. It just takes a little time to adapt to the particular alt-tuning you're using, then avoid any obvious problem spots you may encounter by adjusting your playing technique and choice of notes. 3. Ringing Overtones: When you play certain notes and you don't mute your other strings, occasionally a note you're playing may cause a harmonic to resonate from a non-muted string. This can be a good thing, but sometimes it may result in an odd sound as in #2 above. The solution is to mute the strings you aren't using, especially when playing single notes. This way the DSP won't be 'confused' by unwanted notes resonating against the intended note. 4. Amp Sounds: For Variax Acoustic Models, use an Amp Bypass setting or go direct whenever possible. Acoustics, Resos, Sitar, etc. don't like preamp gain, so cleaner is better in order to bring out the full range of these Models. If you use a Vetta II or PODxt Live, it's a good idea to set up an Amp Preset for each of your favorite alt-tuned Variax Models, and save the Variax Model with your Amp Preset. If you are experiencing an output latency when in an Alternate Tuning this is a known issue. This is a result of the time it takes for the DSP in the Variax to detect the pitch, change it to a different pitch, and then output the note. This may require you to change your playing style slightly in order to compensate for the latency.
  10. In my case on Helix, If I turn the phone volume near 3oclock degree to maximum, I can listen the noise. I did it with no connection on any devices, jack, amp blabla anything. I turn off every fx inside the preset and make the input volume to 0db(It means I check it with no input). However without all my effort, I still can listen the noise. I check the headphones and connecting jacks but no problems are found. Is it only happen to me or happen to every helix devices?
  11. Hey all, My Helix is up to date, and I like pretty much everything about it...except the noise! I have a completely line 6 setup for live applications. M20d mixer, stagesource speakers... This rig was dead silent until Helix showed up. My HD500 and HD500X were both SILENT. Helix, even when turned down completely, introduces hiss throughout the system, mains and monitors. Mute the Helix channel on the mixer? Silence. It doesn't matter which outputs I am using on Helx, they are all equally hissy. Models have no affect on the amount of hiss. Noise gate fully engaged, still hiss. In other words, it's purely the Helix outputs. What is the problem here?!
  12. Well, if Guitar Center won't take back my G10, maybe Line 6 will.... Big fan of Line 6 products in general, but this is simply unacceptable. You guys needed to do more testing with various guitars before releasing this product. I am guessing here, but it seems that active electronics in acoustic guitars that use BRAIDED cables for the pickups have issues with interference. It's bad. It's high-frequency, digital-sounding noise and it's not anywhere near "typical" or tolerable. I have an Emerald X-20 acoustic. Originally equipped with a B-Band A3T system. My G10 worked just great with it, however I had quality issues with the system, so B-Band sent me a replacement. The new pickup design included a braided shield over the pickup cable. This is when the noise started with the G10. Using a guitar cable, the noise went away. After having yet more quality issues with B-Band (and Emerald quit using them as a supplier), I had Emerald install their updated LR Baggs Element system. This, too, has a braided pickup cable. And the noise is even worse than before. The guitar is dead silent when using a normal cable. Yes, I've tried the mono-to-mono adapter trick. No relief from the noise. In addition, this new LR Baggs system seems to suffer from the "reverse polarity" issue, whereby the system won't even work at all when plugged directly into the guitar. It's been more than 45 days, but I'm going to see if Guitar Center will take this thing back. It's simply not worth the hassle. For whatever reason, my 15-year old Yamaha (yes, it has an active preamp) works fine with the G10. But I simply cannot accept the noise coming from the Emerald, and it's not the guitar's fault. Any solutions before I return this inferior product, Line 6 people???
  13. I have a G10 to a Helix, running into a Powercab Plus with Line 6 Link without issue. I also have Helix running XLR stereo out to a Focusrite Scarlett 18/20. None of this has any issue. I added a Fender Rumbler 25 to practice Bass. Hooked it up with the 1/4" output. Now I hear this computer like hiss that rolls in and out. but just on that amp. I've unhooked EVERYTHING from the Helix and it's still there. Everything is hooked into the same power outlet for ground loop isolation. I've also tried another 1/4" cable and routed it a different way. G10 straight into in the Rumbler has no issues. Checked the 1/4" setting on the Helix and it's set to Instrument. I'm at a loss on what I can do to isolate it. Can I lift the ground wire on the 1/4" or do they make some sort of isolation device for 1/4" . This has to be between the Helix and Rumbler only. Please Help, Mike "
  14. I'm experiencing terrible noises due to lack of clock sync between Reaper and Helix, used as an USB audio interface. I tried to set the same sample rate but the noises are still there in the recording. Can someone please help me fix this issue and explain me (like I'm a 5 y o kid) how to make the Helix the master and Reaper the slave? Thanks in advance!
  15. Hello to the whole community. I have a noise problem when change the channel of my amplifier from the hx Effects. My amplifier is a Mesa Boogie Rectoverb 25. When I switch to the high gain channel from the hx effects a very annoying background noise is heard. I tried to reduce it with the noise gates of the hx efeccts but they do nothing. is this normal? thank you
  16. I tried out my Mesa Boogie TriAxis with 4CM and get an awful noise. We've gone through about twenty different troubleshooting ideas on the facebook group and haven't found a winner yet. Three solutions I was not yet able to try due to lack of availability: Isolated coupler Hum buster cable ISP Decimator Anyway, the TriAxis is a beast and sounds great regardless of the hum. I don't think I'll be taking it to any gigs like this, though.
  17. Hello Line 6 Community! First time poster here. I've just made the jump from fractal to helix with a HX Stomp. In my first 2 days I am blown away at how great these tones are. I am looking to ditch both my AX8 and audio interface for the flexibility of the Stomp as a stand alone. So far, I can see I made the right choice. The only thing I am noticing is: Noise on high gain lead patches I love all the tones I'm getting from all the stock presets and also downloaded some Glen DeLuane presets. Both, have the high noise and uncontrollable feedback issue on the lead type patches. Is this just the nature of the Stomp or Helix in general or am I doing something wrong?
  18. I have the helix on a not so large room, with 2 tube amp on clean , in stereo, I am going from the helix to the amp from the left and right instrument cable output on the helix , NOT the 4 cables Method, and I have this electrical HUMM, that is quite common when you hook two tube amps, with a digital moduler in between, is not so loud , but for prolonged playing time, it builds up on the ear becoming very annoying . so far I tried the ground lift on the back and doesn't help, maybe anyone know a trick or a sort of buffer or a magic pedal that isolates the amps from the electrical current that is creating the noise?
  19. I just purchased the Line6 Helix HX effects pedalboard and i have noted that whenever high gain effects are selected (happens in almost all the FUZZ effects), there is a high volume, ambulance type of noise (coming and going) in the tempo that the tap led is blinking. If you lower the gain a lot, (really a lot) the noise goes away but the effect is useless at such low gain/volume. anyone with similar symptoms?
  20. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
  21. Got a PD 500XHD. Was working great - no complaints. All of a sudden, I heard a pop, and everything sounds "trebly". Patches that sounded great are crap now. I downloaded the last patches. My unit got out of sync one day (when your PC HDEdit is running but board is off). I've done this before so I know what to do. When I downloaded my latest save on the Open Bundle option, it didn't want to load. Once I loaded it, now all the tones seems "way off". Tested through 2 guitars, earphones, speakers, different connections - all the same. Am I missing something?
  22. I can not speak English because I am a foreigner. I wrote using Google Translator. Good morning. I am using FIVE O pickup now. The instrument uses an ukulele. The pickup uses a 3v CR2032 battery. When this pickup is connected, white noise is generated. There are two instruments equipped with this pickup, but they all have the same symptoms. Other passive pickups did not have this symptom. There was also no noise in the fishman pickup installed on the guitar. The Fishman pickup used a 9v battery. I want to remove this noise. ↓ five-O pick up Noise T^T
  23. I am using a POD HD 500X and a DT50 Head. I had tried the POD alone, but was dissatisfied with the "modeled" amp tones (I've always used a Mesa Boogie Rectifier, and am partial to a real "tube" tone. That's why I purchased the DT. I plugged directly into the DT, and using topology 4, was able to get an awesome heavy tone. Chunky. Tight. Very little noise. Awesome. So I set up the POD HD500X using the L6 link. Starting with a new (empty) patch, I tried to recreate that same sound I got by plugging directly into the DT. It seems that my choices are: 1) to use the Angel F-Ball model (using channel A), or 2) to use no amp model, which sends it to channel B. BOTH are unsatisfactory. (1) Using the model, it doesn't have the same warmth and clarity as if I'd plugged directly into the tube amp. And its VERY noisy!! (2) Using channel B, I need to turn up the output of the HD 500 all the way to get the same gain as if I'd plugged straight into the head. Or turn up the mixer in the HD signal chain all the way. This method is also very noisy. And in this way, I'd be limited to just one tone...whatever I have channel B set to. And woud also have no way to boost for leads. To make sure it wasn't my imagination, I have tested both ways, back and forth. I plugged into the DT directly - sounds amazing, crunchy, and no noise. I plug into the POD HD500X connected to the DT via L6 - noisy and mediocre tone. I bought the two so I could have a nice tube sound, but also be able to change between tolologies/gain amounts/effects configurations all in one click of the pedal. What do I need to do differently to get the same great tube sound I get from plugging directly into the DT, only using the POD, using the POD to change topologies, effects, etc? Thanks, Tim
  24. I updated my Helix LT yesterday to 2.6, and after that it's been really noisy. I tried different stock presets and it's the same thing. You can hear in the clip that it only stops momentarily when I play really loud. But other than that it's constantly there, and impossible to live with. I'm sure it's not my guitar, because everything was fine just before updating, and I tried another guitar with no change. I plugged my HD500x into the same outlet and it was completely quiet, which makes me think this is a HELIX issue. It's on all the outputs (headphones, 1/4", USB). Anyone know what is causing this? Helix Noise.mp3
  25. Hi everyone, I read some topics in the forum and i'm not sure if any topic describe exactly my problem so i have to ask you guys. I bought my guitar (a JTV 59) refurbished in Line 6 store and finally after 3 month I bring it to my home in Argentina after a travel in the US, so I have to solve the problem pretty much by myself. After a few days of using it the bridge magnetic pickup starts to make some intermittent noise (not a hum, more like a broken contact). It only happens once in a while using the magnetic pickups with the VDI cable with and without the battery. With a regular 1/4" plug with the battery the noise is still there, without the battery the noise disappears. My clue is that the pickup selector is either dirty or broken, but the noise should be there at least i'm missing something. If you have any solution besides cleaning the pickup switcher i'll apreceate your advices. Thanks you in advance. Sorry about my english, it's not my native lenguage.
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