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pod go 5 green led flickering. Can anyone help. when using after 2 hr playing Device one stop producing sound and paddle automatically shifted to exp 1 mode(unable to go to exp2) and 5 switch green light flickering started. After factory rest sound came back and paddle function restored but light flickering haven't stop. I tried roll back to 1.4 but doesn't help.see video.pls any one help
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I've been having an issue where my pod go wireless would sometimes set the volume to 0 when I'm using it as an interface, I am using on GarageBand on my MacBook air m2 (sharing info incase its important to the issue), and as far as I'm aware, all of the software is up to date. I was wondering if anyone else has been encountering the same issue and have any workarounds for it? P.S. I use a cable for my guitar when recording because I don't want to waste the wireless battery.
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Hi everyone, I've created the attached PDF file with all the models (Amps, Cabs and Pedals) of the Pod Go 2.5. I've done it just for me but I thought it can be useful to anyone if you want to keep it at hand. Still a very long document (60 pages) but save it in your phone for quick access! I've used the information from this page: https://line6.com/podgo-models/index.html but I've done some modifications. First of all the lists are sorted alphabetically and I got rid of the "Initial Appearance" column as I do not really care at this point. Anyway, I hope this is useful!! Cheers! POD Go 2.5.pdf
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I dropped my phone over the Line 6 POD GO as I was playing and it just shut off. Will not come on under any circumstance. First I thought that the phone falling on it must have pressed some random knobs that turned it off. But after countless tries at re-starting, rebooting and resetting, I have nothing. Won't pop up on the computer either as the product does not seem to take in any power. Tinkered around with it to see if I could fix it but realized the main board is stuck on there pretty well so couldn't remove it to investigate further since I didn't want to break anything. Not just the display gone out, but the entire device has no power. Has anyone else encountered this? Please help me I don't want to spend money to fix this when I don't have any.
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I'm having an issue with the G10TII that was sent with my unit. It's seemingly bricked itself during firmware update. I'm working with Support to get it working (or replaced), but in the meantime I have things to do. I have an existing wireless setup I'd like to use, but it doesn't seem to work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H726VH7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title However, this doesn't seem to work. I'm wondering if the charging circuit for the G10TII transmitter is messing with the operation of this wireless receiver. It seems like if the intent that the "Guitar In" port works like a normal guitar input when not using a G10TII, then it should accept things like this that a normal guitar input would accept. Thanks, Scott
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Installed 2.50 last night on my Pod Go (including the required Pod Go Edit update). I ran into some trouble with the unit getting hung up on "Updating" but I followed the procedure to use Line 6 Updater to fix it, and sure enough, it worked. Everything so far about the release seems fine, except that I get no sound from the 4x10 US Super cab model. I can use the Super Amp model with other Cabs just fine. But that 4x10 produces no sound at all. I did attempt to change the mic setup (model, placement) with no difference. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
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Since the last month, the POD Go cannot be used as an interface in DAWs like Cubase because the ASIO Pod Go no longer shows up in Cubase. Some other software such as Amp sims like Hellbeast and Neural DSP show the ASIO but when you try to load it, it says it cannot connect to the device. I think it may be linked to the new update which is supposed to fix the memory intergrity compatibility, but now you cant record with the ASIO
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Hi everyone, this ticket refers to the ducked delay in pod go. I know that there has been a request similar to this one but the answer in the other request was not to change all paremters at once. But even if I only change one relvant parameter I cannot see any effect: When I put the ducking parameter in ducked delay to "0" there is no delay at all (delay time: 800ms) - instead of a delay that should have no damping or muting at all. When I put the ducking parameter to 100% I can hear a delay also while playing continously - although the delay is supposed to start, when I stop playing. I have watched some video tutorials on ducked delay for the Helix pedalboard and it worked fine in the video. But even when I take the same parameters I dont get the effect seen in the tuturial in my pod go. I tried with different attack and release times but still no ducking effect. Do you have the same experience with your pod go or did you manage to get a ducking effect in the pod go? If so: Do you have any hint for me to fix it? If it is a bug: Is there any timeplan for a bugfix release that will also solve this problem? Thanks a lot, Anil
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I tried to use in my pod go the Ducked Delay, but it seems have some problem because even if I pump up the ducking I dont have "ducking effect".
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Hello Guys, greetings from Brasil. So I bought a Pod Go some months ago, I'm a professional musician and I'm using it for work. I love the tones and the easiness that it brought to me, so straight forward and well built. But I'm struggling with it something. I realized when I'm using it with my stage monitor (I have a JBL IRX108) the AMP out source is sending less volume compared to the Main Out, even when I set the volume knob to control both outputs. I tested today with my stage monitor here and is obviously sending less output. But I need those outputs to be matched because my monitor needs lots of input to operate well. I tried on the manual and couldn't find nothing about it, it actually says that the two outputs (amp out and master out) should be sending the same amount of volume. Other question is, is there someway that I can use the L and R master outputs one for the FOH and other for Monitoring as if they were two MONO outputs? Because I don't want my effects to be divided wrongly, with one side sent to the FOH and other just to my monitors
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First off - yes, this topic was mentioned earlier, yes - I did everything others recommended, yet the problem still remaines. EXP1 can switch between VOL and WAH, but moving the pedal doesn't do anything. I have the latest version (2.01), I tried to clear it completly and import the backup - the problem still remains. If anyone had similar or exactly the same problem please respond, I'm losing my mind and have a gig in 2 weeks.
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I'm using a Helix for all my live sounds and I've recently started experimenting with setting up my pan in the Helix itself so I don't have to rely on the sound guys to do it. I'm using two cabinets on all my presets and I pan them hard left and right and then I use the output block for my overall panning. So based on parts of the songs, I've got my main output from the Helix going either fully to the right for harmony & doubled parts, dead center for lead, and hard left-right for when I'm the rhythm guitar and the other guy is doin lead. Is there a way to achieve this on the other guitarist's rig? He uses a POD Go and I've been able to set up the centered lead and the full left for harmony and doubled parts, but I can't figure out if it's possible to split his signal left-right the way I do with the Helix? On my rig it's different from keeping both cabs centered and lowering the volume, since if they're hard left-right they don't mix together, but since he has only one cab would a centered sound with a volume cut be the way to go? Ideally I want to be able to push his sound very wide and in the background so there is space for it but it doesn't fight with my lead in the center.
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Simple preset in pedal mode. Delay and Reverb are always on. 2 switches control parameter changes 1 for Delay and 1 for Reverb. More and less mix, decay, etc. When I first start on Snapshot 1 the lights on switches are off indicating less reverb and delay When switching to another snapshot suddenly one of the switches is on (reverb) but the values are still for low. So turning the switch off actually turns more reverb on. When switching to Snapshot 1 again, now the delay button has same issue. Anyone knows what this is about?
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Hey hey! I was looking through some presets for my Pod GO here, but I saw that it didn't really have any Black Keys stuff, except Lonely Boy. If you have some good setup or preset, mind telling under here Thx!
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Pod Go Wah jumps to full volume even if exp 2 is turned down.
keithmarriott posted a topic in POD Go
Hi folks, hoping someone can help. I don't like using the onboard pedal for Wah and volume because you have to turn the volume up to full before you can press the tow switch to activate the Wah (so no funky rhythm playing). So I'm using an external volume (expression) pedal on exp 2. This works great as the external pedal as a minimum volume so I can set rhythm and lead levels. However, moving the onboard pedal doesn't do anything until I activate the tow switch and the Wah is activated: but.... As soon as I activate the Wah the setting for the external pedal is bypassed and the volume jumps to full. So basically I have the same issue that I can't play funky rhythm with the Wah on as the volume goes to full. Any idea how I can stop that happening? -
Just bought the Pod Go. I have three X3 Live units. Will the X3 power supplies work with the Go?
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After waiting a VERY long time we finally have an update to Pod Go, which is extremely welcome! However, the one key feature I was really hoping for (and with all the hints around a re-written cab engine, we had good reason for hope) is still missing - no stereo cab block! This means that the Pod Go can't be used for stereo effects into the PA if you still want to hear those effects on-stage - the pre-cab tap point for on-stage monitor would be really useful, but all stereo capable effects have to be placed AFTER the cab block, so you can't hear them on stage!! - this is a huge limitation of the Pod Go and should have been fixed in 2.0, with the re-written cab engine - is there any hope at all that this feature will come soon in an update?
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Help! What do I do? My POD Go does not continue its update and is showing this error while updating. "Failed to get impulse names. Service is not online. [Code 8207]"
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How can I disable (or delete) the volume block on the Pod Go so that I can only use the pedal as a wah pedal?
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Hi all, I recently bought the Pod Go and quite happy with it. But i've encountered with weird behaviour of "Deez One Vintage" distortion model (Boss DS-1) which I placed in front of US Double Nrm amp model (Fender Twin). It seems that at the moment of string attack a compressor is triggered. It's like "Deez One Vintage" uses a compression pedal inside. What interesting is that only "Deez One Vintage" and may be "Deez One Mod" has that problem. Any other distortion models (Hedgehog D9, Compulsive Drive, etc.) works good. Moreover I've tried a Helix Native plugin and DS-1 inside of it works well without any artificial compression. Has anyone encountered anything like this?
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It's coming up on 1 year since Pod Go last firmware update. Helix 3.60 was 3 months ago. PLEASE tell us there's still some Pod Go love and a firmware update coming with some of the new amps, effects and features Helix got?
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Hello! I recently bought a POD GO and have been using it at home with either headphones or directly out of my Yorkville YSM8 studio monitors with great results. The other purpose for me buying this unit is to use it in a live scenario in my classic rock band which I went to test today and I have questions. I am going Line out -> Amp FX Return ( Old 80's Marshall Mosfet lead 100 solid state head ) and obviously guitar ( Fender Tele ) in the input. The amp is plugged into a V30 equipped 4x12. I am using preamps of the POD GO only with the cab block disabled. My question is that when going through the preamps one by one just starting at the 100 who watt preamp and going down the list turning the knob I noticed something strange. The first like 20 amps are all clean and sound the same just dull with no character at all. When I got home I tested the amp vs preamp for every model and all the amps excluding a few sounded amazing with the built in power section and what was more surprising is they almost all had natural grit / gain to them. A quick example of what I mean if you want to reproduce it would be the amp " derailed Ingrid ". The amp sounds really really good nice gain but then switch over to the preamp version and it becomes a lifeless clean channel. This is how the preamp sounds coming out of my 4x12 at my jam space.... Am I doing something wrong? Did I connect something wrong? Is my signal path / blocks wrong? I have the most simple path ever just volume pedal -> preamp and nothing else on just for testing purpose. Thank you!
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I'm new to this Pod Go thing. Normally I play acoustic. I use an AER Compact 60 for my acoustic and I figured I could also play my electric through the Pod Go and into the AER since it's a full range amp. The question is how best to set it up for use. Here's what I'm thinking... From what I've heard I should send the main out to the house PA but if I want to have an onstage amp I could use my AER. The AER has a direct out so I currently just plug my acoustic into the AER input, get a good sound on stage and have the direct out go to the main PA. I love the reverb settings on the AER and would like to use the AER's preamp section for acoustic. Integrating the Pod Go into this and bringing in my electric I think I am supposed to send the main out(s) to the house system from the Pod Go. But to send a signal to my AER I'm using the Amp out. Now I've heard for such a situation one wants to turn off any of the cabinet settings in the Pod Go. But if I do that then aren't the cabinet settings going to the main out(s) missing the cabinet portion? Or would a better option be to send the Amp out to the effect return on the AER and leave the cabinet settings on the Pod Go alone? Second question: I still do acoustic stuff. I guess if I'm going with Pod Go -> AER effect return then I am free to plug my acoustic into the Input on the AER? But should I instead go through the Pod Go and if so what would be good acoustic patches? Final question: I've also been making and playing along with backing tracks - tracks that have all of the missing instruments to play along with what I will be playing live. Now I'd like to control that music source to but how best to put this into my system? The backing tracks would be coming from my tablet and traveling via Bluetooth which I have in the past plugged into my AER as it has an 1/8" line in. However, can I instead feed that into the Pod Go via the effect send? That would go to the house PA but would it also go to the Amp out? Because if the house PA sees only the main out(s) from the Pod Go and my AER has the backing tracks then that wouldn't work. And if the Amp out doesn't feed my onstage AER then I won't be able to hear the backing tracks well. And yes I know the sound engineer could put the backing tracks through the monitors but again, I'd like to control that myself as sometimes the sound engineers don't give me a strong enough signal in the monitors for the backing tracks
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The power cord for the Pod Go is not really road worthy - as well, I like to have both a back up cord: a cord I leave at my studio at home as well as one in my Gig back. Besides being back ordered, they are also very expensive. Does any have suggestions on options other then buying a direct replacement (which can't be done right now)? Also, the DC-3h unit is 9V 3A - is it ok to use one with higher amps (ie: 9V 4A)? How about one with fewer amps - 9V 2A? Is there a range that will work 3A +/- 14% or some other Percentage? Right now playing with just one cord and that is risky............. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
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Does anyone know what sort of tweaking i would need to do and what inductor to use in order to get the chrome custom sound in my v845? i also have a cry baby standard i could use for some part swapping if needed. thanks in advance just in case i miss you.