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  1. Outputs When the Helix XLR outputs are subjected to phantom power, the output level is decreased. Do not try and connect your Helix to a mixer, interface, or PA system that supplies phantom power (48v) to the Helix XLR outputs. The workaround is to use the 1/4" outputs instead. If your setup requires XLR usage and phantom power cannot be avoided, we've seen some customers have success with a phantom power suppressor. Input When using the XLR input with a microphone, do not "hot swap" the cable. Do not have the 48v phantom power engaged when plugging in an XLR cable. It's best practice to plug in the cable with a mic attached to the other end, then go into Global Settings>Ins/Outs and turn on the Mic Phantom Power. Make sure to disengage the 48v before unplugging the cable as well.
  2. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
  3. Hi guys I've recently lost my Helix Lt power cable on stage and I was wondering if I could use any other IEC cable. Has anyone tried it? I found nothing using the search tool, thanks and keep rocking on!
  4. I just bought a used Line 6 Spider 3 HD150 head from Guitar Center. I powered it up and started to play (through headphones as I do not yet have the cab for it) and it worked fine for about 30 seconds. I looked down at my FBX longboard and noticed that it had switched banks by itself from Bank 2 to Bank 3. I switched it back to Bank 2 and the preset channel I was using, then the sound cut out. After 2 seconds it came back. Then it started doing it over and over. I noticed it was actually powering off and on repeatedly. Any advice on steps I should take to correct the issue? I have 45 days to return it if I can't fix it. Thanks in advance.
  5. I just have a 2 part question about the FBX/FBV Longboard Controller I bought online. They told me it comes with a CAT5 cable. Is this where the board draws it's power? And, Do I need anything other than the CAT 5 cable to route it to my Spider 2 amp? Or do I just plug it into the amp, and plug my guitar into the board and I'm good to go?
  6. If you're having charging issues, please make sure you seat the transmitter completely into the receiver, otherwise the transmitter will not charge. For more details, see this article: Relay G10 FAQ We have designed the G10 transmitter to fit into almost any guitar. However, we anticipate that there will be some rare cases where the transmitter does not fit into a given guitar. If the G10 transmitter is inserted into your guitar and the transmitter's actuator pin is not engaged, the transmitter will not turn on, and the LED on the transmitter will not light up. In some rare cases, the guitar’s active electronics are wired with inverse polarity. In this scenario, the transmitter's electronics can go into a protection mode that keeps the system from being functional. This is evidenced by no output from the G10, even though the transmitter's light is on. We have found that a workaround to both of these issues is to use a mono-to-mono (TS-TS) Male to Female adaptor. More details and a troubleshooting procedure can be found at http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/relay-g10-guitar-compatibility-fitelectronics-r817. If these issues affect you, we encourage you to post the following information so that we can better understand the scope of the issue and the effectiveness of the solution: Guitar manufacturer Guitar model Does it fit and turn on? Do you hear audio? Does the adaptor solution resolve the issue?
  7. Hello. I have been usin Amplifi 75 for some time at home. Now I have to use it in a band and I just can't get enough volume out of it. My friend with a 60W amp sounds great whereas I have to mic my amp. What is the actual power output of the Amplifi 75? How can it be that my guitar doesn´t sound over the drums with a 75W amp? Thanks
  8. Any Idea where to get one of these? Thanks!!!
  9. Hey I recently switched to a rack system and have the helix rack, effects gizmo, alembic f2b, a power amp and a shelf powered by a pedal power 2+ These are all plugged into a furman M8dx. And plan to be adding a wireless system for guitar and in ears as well. I will be powering on the power amp seperately but would leaving the helix rack(and everything else except the power amp) in the on position and turning it on/off with the power conditioner damage the helix? I have been careful to power everything on individually but wanted to know if I could streamline the process Also I noticed when switching the helix rack off from the front power switch it makes a crackling sort of noise is this normal? It seems to be functioning properly but I don't want to damage it
  10. Love my G10...works wonderfully. My question is...I have it plugged into power 24/7. Does anyone know any reason why this might cause issues? Shorter battery life or overheating or ? No issues...and I use it several times a week during practice...and it goes to a solid green a few minutes after putting the transmitter back into base. So it appears to be working fine...just want it to last. Thanks Dave
  11. Hi, What are the specs and where can I order a cable to connect the G70 via USB to a G-SYSTEM back panel? it's a DC 9V 50mA connection. thanks! steve.
  12. I own a DL4...I am looking into new power supplies for my board. Will the Strymon Zuma power supply be able to handle the DL4? (Each port on the Zuma is capable of producing 500mA 9V and two ports with 9V, 12V, and 18V options all at 500mA.) Here is the link for the Zuma: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Zuma
  13. I bought the Amplifi 150 in August 2016. It would occasionally make a loud "POP" sound, and then the footcontroller would be non-responsive. I brought it into a verified Line6 factory repair shop in North Hollywood, and after waiting 4 weeks, they were unable to replicate the problem after leaving it on for a few hours. I took it back, and even did a gig in October with it. This week, I was getting ready for a bunch of gigs over the holidays, and suddenly while playing, the amp makes a loud "interference" type of sound (i.e., static noise). It happened as I was in the tuning mode on the foot-controller. I turned off the unit, turned it back on, and after 5 minutes, it did it again. I turned it off again - and unplugged the cat 5 cable to the foot controller and it eventually made the same loud sound. At 150watts, it's loud. And not really reliable for my upcoming gigs - rendering it totally useless. Anyone have issues with weird, loud static interference blasting through the amp? Maybe I just got a bad unit. No repair shop is open until the new year in L.A., so it's back to the Pod XTlive setup or my Fender amps. But I'm losing faith in the Amplifi system. No working musician wants to worry about their gear not working. (note: I bought the unit used, so I can't return it to Line6, so it's either repair shop or trash the unit)
  14. Howdy all, _Apologies moderators if this is in the wrong forum.. figured it might get a few more hits if it’s in the main forum_.. Having been part of the Fractal Forum (however no longer because I’m a loud and proud HELIX user J), and Kemper Forum, and now the Line 6 Helix forum, I’ve noticed that in particular here in the Helix forum, there’s a huge amount of FRFR discussions, but there’s minimal discussions about players that don’t necessarily use FRFR. This could quite easily be because the bigger majority of players in this Line 6 forum ARE mainly FRFR users/players. This isn’t an anti-FRFR topic or discussion, it’s more about expanding on this forum and perhaps growing the capabilities of the Helix and sharing wins/strategies/tones etc etc. On the Fractal and Kemper forums, there are many discussions about FRFR, but there’s also a lot of discussions and banter about power amps + cabs + Kemper or Axe FX, _not just FRFR_. Is it worth having a forum or chat room for the players that mainly use their Helix rig in a non-FRFR situation? It’s all well and good to download and trade patches with one another that are FRFR; however from what I can ascertain on this forum, at least 90% of all things discussed is FRFR based, with not a lot of input on power amp + cab + Helix and so forth. Again, having owned and played all 3 modellers, I personally keep resorting back to a valve power amp + cab + Helix because that not only works for me, but the band that I play in as well. FRFR is the perfect bedroom solution (which a majority of us forum’ites are, presumably), however, I just think it’d be good to have a place to chat, trade ideas etc that are not always FRFR based.. Food for thought I guess..
  15. My M9 was not used for about a 6 months as I was not able to use it in college. When I plug in the power chord. absolutely nothing happens. It looks like it is not turning on at all. Not sure what to do about it as I would love to start playing guitar again with my pedal. Thanks!
  16. Hey everyone, So I have just jumped ship from a 100w stack to the pod hd pro... AND I LOVE IT!! :D Today I have received my case and matrix power amp and have just realized that I have no idea which order to safely turn the two units on... (Gulp). I really don't want to damage any of my gear or cause unnecessary pops. Please Line 6 users, I would be forever greatful if somebody could help me with this confusion. Regards, Tencaious_Lee
  17. In looking for different expression pedal control options, I came across the MIDI Solutions Pedal Controller. This would potentially allow Helix users to use any volume pedal as an expression pedal via Helix MIDI CC. It appears to be 5-pin DIN MIDI, like Helix. It operates on 5V power to its MIDI input stating this is a standard MIDI specification. Can Helix MIDI out provide this power? http://www.midisolutions.com/prodped.htm http://www.midisolutions.com/faqs.htm#Power If not, there is a pretty easy +5V USB/MIDI cable hack to power the MIDI input of the MIDI Solutions Pedal Controller if Helix MIDI Out can't provide power. +5V USB/MIDI cables hack http://www.danbecker...ower/index.html MIDI Solutions Power FAQ directing users to the hack... http://www.midisolut.../faqs.htm#Power
  18. Hi all Just received my G10 unit (thanks Thomann) but was surprised that it uses a 5v USB power plug and not the usual 9v I already have available on my board. I do have a VoiceLive3 with a USB port though, so question is: How much power (Watts/A) does the G10 base station require, and would I be able to power it through the USB port on my VoiceLive? Thanks!
  19. Just got my Helix, plugged in my variax via the VTI cable (or whatever its called) and nothing. The inputs are set correctly. It works fine on my POD HD500X. I can play the variax with 1/4 inch and battery but not with the ethernet cable. Tried a factory reset and all firmware on JTV 59 and Helix is up to date. Help
  20. So I had it all set up to get a new rig and yesterday my car decided to lollipop out on me and I had to pay a huge bill to get it repaired. I now only have a 2x12 cab and my HD500 and I've been reading around and found I can get a power amp to get a good signal from my HD500 to my cab, but mostly I see XLS1000 or so which put out 1000w of power so how is it that people can use this without blowing there speakers? Do they just crank the HD500 master and just leave the power amp at maybe 2? And if we're having a loud practice or playing shows how could I turn it up without blowing anything? I'm really looking for as much info as possible on this because now my dream rig is out of my reach and this is the only other thing I can do with having a brand new 2x12 sitting around collecting dust. I've been looking at an XLS, QSC, and my buddy at GC was looking around at his used stuff and saw an Altec Lansing 1210 and said it maybe awesome to try and only cost $60. Thanks for looking!
  21. Just received a Helix unit and started playing with it I'm seriously unimpressed with what it can dope with DSP wise I know there are limits but I've just maxed out Path 1 with a phaser an 808 and two amp cab models That's it! I know I can go to Path 2 but I was expecting to get a bit further than this based on the demos I've seen Faulty unit? This can't be it surely
  22. First let me iterate, this is not a bluetooth connectivity problem. Another usual day. I go to turn on my Amplifi 150, and it slightly powers on then cuts off. By slightly I mean that they lights come on but are very dim and then cut off pretty much immediately. I have tried it a few times at different outlets, on different circuits, and at completely different houses with the same issue. So far my troubleshooting has brought me no success in fixing the issue. My first thought was a fuse blew, but then the power shouldn't come on at all, correct? Another thought I had was an update problem, but the amp will not turn on long enough to update. Has anyone ever experienced this before? Or any other thoughts on the matter? I haven't gone exploring in the back yet because I am still under warranty. Thank you all for your help.
  23. If two XD-V55 receivers are connected via the antenna splitter kit and the receivers are powered on individually, the receiver that is powered on second will not initiate. The receivers must be powered on simultaneously to work. The antenna splitter kit requires the two SMA MALE to BNC MALE cables that the XD-V55 rackmount kit provides. As such, it is assumed that the receivers are rackmounted AND powered by a power strip.
  24. StageSource L3M not turning on when powered up (have checked cables, etc). When we switch on we get a faint electrical click, but no lights on the back of the unit (as is the case on the other working unit we have). Help will be greatly appreciated as currently in Albania using them with a Kids holiday camp Mark
  25. Hey guys. I want to buy Floor POD Plus from a guy, but he has no power supply for it. I wanted to buy 9v AC 2000mA adapter for it, because i read that it's the default power supply for this POD, but it's expensive in here. Can I use an adapter with less miliampers than 2000? Like 1300 or smth? I can't find any information about this on the internet.
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