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  1. Ok. Just bought a DT25 head and cab. Brought it home, hooked it up to my 500x via xlr cable. Every thing seems to be working correctly. Sounds great etc. but... The red power light doesn't light up. Never did! I would think that it's just the bulb. How easy is this to replace? Is this done by unscrewing the knurled light cover from the front, or do you have to go in from the back of the amp. I can't take it back to the shop as I live miles away and was only able to get there due to a friend giving me a lift. Thanks for any information.
  2. Hey, I just got a POD500 from the US. Obviously, the power adapter is different. I know the output is 9V - 3A. Will my Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 Plus power this up? or do I need to a) get a AUS Power Supply for the unit or b) get a step down transformer for it? Cheers. :)
  3. I ordered my Pod hd pro from America (i'm from England) and it came with the power cable but it's an American one so it won't fit my plug sockets. I will most likely just get an American to English plug adapter but i was wondering if i can use a kettle lead (power cable) that is 10A 250V for the pod? On the pod above the power input it says 100-240V 50 - 60Hz 100w max so i didn't know if it would overpower it? or break it in some way? I have loads of 250v power cables already so it will be great if i can just use one but if it's going to damage my pod i'll just get an adapter or buy a power cable thats 240v. Any help would be great, thanks Harry
  4. Looks like it is some out there with power-problems on their POD XT. Same problem for me, have had this as peiodic problems for a while now. Well, 1. I remove 4 screws in the back panel 2. Split the panel 3. Check the power-switch if it is ok or not (and it was not) by do a shortcut of the 2 terminals of the switch back (and then test it,,,,, yes,,, the XT light up), so then I know the erros causes of the power-switch. 4. I remove the power-switch in the most simple way by cut the 2 terminals in the back of the switch. 5. I open the switch with the help of a flathead scewdriver. You expand the slot of the switch and then remove the switch-head (0 1). Careful,,,, there is 1 small ball, 1 spring, 1 pice of flat metal who can fall out of the slot. 6. Remove the flat metal-plate, clean/polich/sand the contact point on the plate and the 2 piont in the switch. The reason for this is to remove the oxide-plaque who is cover the contact-points. This is a very common problem for a lot of different electronic/electric devices. This is one of the main reasons some devices contains small amounts of gold,,,, gold is a precious metall who have high corrosion resistance. IE, You should clean every point of contact. 7. Add some small amount of grease to the one side of the ball (on the spring, then the ball would not so easy fall of), and on the slide area of the plate. 8. Replace the head of the switch. 9. Test the switch with a ohm-tester. Hopefully it is ok. If not, check if you have replace it in the right way or if it is some other erros inside it. 10. Put the switch back in the XT, get a small soldering Iron to reconect the terminals again. 11. You are right,,,,, this is not rocket science but easy forward mecanical. If any problems, I have some photoes of the repair. Good Luck ! :D regards,,,, Wizardvision@hotmal.com
  5. Howdy all, My variax bass 700 just started making a horrible crackling noise come from my amp. It happens when my XPS-DI is plugged in and is powering the bass. It doesn't happen on just battery power. It doesn't happen with a normal (Not TRS) cable between the DI and bass. I don't think it is the cables, as I've checked each one and swapped them out without issue. The crackling is separate from the volume of the bass. It doesn't happen by moving the cable at all, the cable is a livewire TRS, and is only a week old. I ordered a new planet waves TRS cable to verify if the cable is the issue. It is always the same distinctive crackle, and I can't seem to "cause" it, it just happens from time to time. At this point, I think it's either a) the bass when it's powered by the DI, b) the DI itself, but only with a TRS cable to the 700, or C) the TRS cable itself, but only the power sending section that's different from a mono 1/4" cable. Has anyone else had this happen? On another note, I just recently recalibrated the strings, and the red LED hasn't worked since I got the bass used some time ago. I just picked up the DI box off ebay. All the sound models seem to work well otherwise. I have cleaned all the pots with denatured alcohol, so I doubt that it's dirty connections.
  6. Hi, I've heard on the internet that Pocket Pods can get damaged or break if they don't get the correct charger. Does it need to be Line6 official? Or just the correct voltage? I've seen this 9V charger on Amazon and it looks like it'll do the job: http://amzn.to/16Tl6Bt Will this be OK to use? Just want to make sure.
  7. Hi, I am experiencing a very important issue with my flextone III During the last 30 days it just restarts... first I thought maybe it was the power cable and it doesnt connect well. Tried a different cable but the problem persists... Yesterday it stayed off for some time before it could power again. When I turned down the switch the normal sound on the back clicked, if this does help, and after a while I could power the amp again. I now dont know what to do, I use this amp for gigs and I dont what this to happen during a show... I was lucky enough that it didnt happened on my last gig a couple of weeks ago!
  8. Hello I bougt this ampli+ mkII in 2010 january .... sound and functions are excellent but the quality of the product and the technixcal support are really bad !!! Nobody in france for to repair .. The more close is in Belgium, that make the cost of shipping really expensive! AFter one year of playing in home studio with no problem ,the MKII electronic board is dead ( 75€ to remplace) and since one year I have a recurrent problem with the Jam power which reboot randomly !!!! this is really lollipop ! :angry: Does anyone have encountered the same problem and can give me some information to repair ? Greetings from south Brittany France
  9. I've been reading about the volume issues with the DT50 212. Too loud, etc. Before I say anything else its the real deal amp. I'm blown away with the HD500 integration. The Solo models are to die for!!!! Here's what I do to deal with volume issues: Each amps output can be set to the expression pedal without using DSP. Watch for how to do this. I've taken my amps/tones and used this technique to lower the overall volume (around a maximum value of 50-60) while keeping the master volume on the high power position (pushed in). Keep the master at about 12 o'clock (or what you like) and use the output settings to level each amp (patch) to each other and to lessen the output. This can be done with dual tones as well, just set both amps to similar parameters, and same expression pedal. Do you lose sound? At 50-60 ... no on most amp models. Some amp models lose slightly, but low volume is merely, usually practice. Is this the perfect fix? Probably not. However, your amp/patches will be leveled, properly loud, and get full use of channel volume and master volume mixes. When playing live a quick touch on the master can work wonders. Let me know how this works out if you try it. His advice (see link above) for wah pedals is spot on too. If its too loud ... move! LOL Happy jamming! bribrew1968
  10. Q: What is the difference in power rating between tube and solid-state power amplifiers? A: Tube power outputs can peak 200 to 400% above solid-state, so a 50watt tube power amp can output a volume equivalent to a 100-200w solid-state amplifier output. Q: What are the common Preamp tubes? A: The 12AX7 (ECC83 is the European term, or the military term of 7025) is the most common preamp tube for driving the Gain and EQ sections of the amplifier, as well as driving the signal into the power amps. The following tubes have a lower power rating and can be used in the preamp section or other amplifier functions such as the reverb tank drivers, inverters, etc. 12AT7 (ECC81, 6201): 60% power of the 12AX7 12AU7 (ECC82, 5963): 19% power of the 12AX7 12AY7 (6072): 45% power of the 12AX7 Q: What are the common power amplifier tubes? 6L6 (5881/KT66): Commonly used in American amplifiers such as Fender, Mesa, Peavey. Typically has more low-end emphasis. EL34 (6CA7/KT77): Commonly used in British amplifiers such as Marshall. Typically has more midrange emphasis. EL84 (6BQ5): Commonly used in Vox , Gibson, Matchless, and Bad Cat amplifiers 6550 (KT88): Commonly used in VHT, Ampeg SVTs, and Leslie Speakers cabinets. Typically has more power output than the other tubes listed here. Q: What other power amp tubes are compatible with the Spider Valve? A: Line 6 stresses using 6L6 (5881/KT66) power amp tubes only. Other power amp tubes such as 6550's can draw too much power and damage your amp and void your warranty. Q: How long should I let tubes "cook" after biasing before I measure again? A: The standard cooking time is 3-6 hours after an initial bias (regardless of the tube age).
  11. Q: What is the XPS Unit? A: The XPS unit is the power supply that powers the Variax instrument via 1/4" TRS cable. The Line 6 XPS box must be powered by a Line 6 PX-2 power supply for correct operation. There are three variations of the XPS: XPS-AB: This units acts as both a Variax power supply and has an A/B footswitch to send the guitar output to either a 1/4" or XLR output. Use a standard XLR (microphone) cable to connect the XPS-AB’s XLR output to feed any balanced input. Use a TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve/Stereo) cable to connect your Variax to the INPUT jack of the XPS-AB, a standard mono instrument cable to connect the 1/4" output of the XPS to any standard amp rig. XPS-Mini: This unit ships with the Variax 300 series, and has an 1/4" input and output. XPS-DI: This unit shipped with the Variax Bass Instruments and had an line/mic level switch, as well as an XLR ground lift option. The XPS-DI uses a standard XLR (microphone) cable to connect the XPS-DI output to feed any balanced input. Use a TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve/Stereo) cable to connect your Variax to the INPUT jack of the XPS-DI, and a standard mono instrument cable to connect the 1/4" output of the XPS-DI to any standard amp rig. Note: This unit is no longer available as the Variax bass has been discontinued. Usage F.A.Q.s Q: Can I use the XPS-AB as a replacement for my XPS-DI? A: Yes, the XPS-AB is the direct replacement for the XPS-DI. Q: Can I use the XPS-mini if I do not have access to the XPS-AB box? A: Yes, the XPS-Mini can be used in place of the XPS-AB box. Be aware that the XPS-mini is the only supported power supply for the Variax 300 series instrument, due to a slight increase in the power requirements for the 300 series. Q: Will the XPS-DI recharge batteries in Variax Instruments? A: No. Q: What type of cable do I need to use to connect the XPS unit to my Variax Instrument? A: You will need to use the supplied 1/4" TRS cable (or equivalent) to connect your XPS box to your Variax instrument to deliver power. Any mono 1/4" cable will work if you are using the internal batteries for power, but the power will be drawn from the batteries rather than from the cable. Q: Can I use the XLR and 1/4" outputs simultaneously? A: No the XLR and 1/4" outputs can only be used separately. Q: Does the Footswitch provide phantom power to another device? A: No, the A/B footswitch for your Variax will not provide phantom power. Q: Can I plug my regular electric instrument into the XPS box? A: Yes, if using a standard mono guitar cable, you can plug your regular electric instrument into the XPS box without damaging your guitar. We do not advise the use of a TRS cable with anything but a Variax because of the power it carries back to the guitar from the XPS box. Also, we do not recommend using an XPS box with active guitars. The combination of voltage potentially feeding back into the guitar, and how the guitar is wired, which can vary, can potentially damage the guitar and/or the XPS box. Q: What is the length of the Variax digital cable? A: The Variax digital cable is 25 feet long. Troubleshooting F.A.Q.s Q: There is no audio signal and I am only seeing a "red" power light on the XPS A/B (DI) when connected to the Variax guitar using a TRS cable? A: If the XPS-AB/DI has the proper power connected (and is connected to the Variax) and is showing a "red" power light, this means that the XPS is not recognizing the Variax and not sending power. If a different TRS 1/4" cable does not resolve the problem, try a different XPS box to see if there is a problem with the XPS box. If a different 1/4" cable and XPS box does not solve the problem, the Variax may have an internal failure that will need to be resolved by an authorized service center. Q: I am getting a "popping" sound when changing between the XLR and 1/4" outputs when connecting to a PA system? A: This situation can happen when the mixer has phantom power applied to the channel that the XPS input. One solution is to turn off the phantom power on that channel, another solution is to put another DI between the XPS and sound board. Some end users with switch to using the different (compatible) Line 6 device. Q: My XPS Box is damaged/lost. How can I get a replacement? A: The XPS box can be special ordered from your favorite Line 6 dealer: Line 6 Dealer Locator
  12. The POD X3/X3 Live does not offer phantom power which is needed when using any condenser type microphones for recording. You can purchase phantom power boxes from several online music dealers. Some boxes start as low as $30.00. For more information on phantom power and how it works, please see the link below. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phantom_power If using phantom power with your microphone, do not connect your microphone to the X3's Mic input. The X3 is not equipped to handle external phantom power. If you do not own a condenser type microphone and your POD is still not putting out any levels there are a couple things you can check. 1)Press the Inputs button on your POD and make sure the input for your tone is set to "Mic". 2)Check the Trim knob near the XLR input on the back of your POD and make sure that is turned up. At this point if you are still not hearing any signal output then your POD have a hardware problem and will need to be repaired. You can locate a Service Center near you on our website and arrange a repair for your POD.
  13. The GearBox Gold Plug-In Bundle contains the same models that are found in Line 6's flagship product, the Vetta II, plus it adds the Bass Expansion model pack. In essence, the Gold Bundle includes every model that Line 6 offers. The Silver Bundle had the same standard set of amp models found in the GuitarPort and TonePort. Some of the models included with the PODxt family of devices are not found in the TonePort, GuitarPort or the Silver Bundle unit. As of August 1st, 2008, all TonePort DI-Silver Bundle devices receive a complimentary free update to Gold Bundle status. Below is a brief summary of how model pack combinations added to the GuitarPort, TonePort or Silver bundle devices compare to those devices that include more models: Power Pack models update the GuitarPort/TonePort/Silver/POD Studio model set to match the PODxt/PODxt Pro model set. Power Pack and the FX Junkie model packs update the GuitarPort/TonePort/Silver model set to match the PODxt Live model set. Power Pack, plus the FX Junkie, Collector Classic, and Metal Shop (collectively known as the Triple Pack) model packs update the GuitarPort/TonePort/Silver model set to match the Vetta II model set. Power Pack, the Triple Pack and the Bass Expansion models update the GuitarPort/TonePort/Silver/POD Studio model set to match the Gold Bundle model set. The model sets used with the GuitarPort, TonePort and PODxt family devices are not VST plug-in ready when purchased. The online purchase and activation of the POD Farm 2.5 plug-in is necessary to use them as plug-in effects in a DAW/recording program. Q: Can I put guitar model packs or licenses for POD Farm or Gearbox plug-ins onto a Bass PODxt? A: No, the Bass POD units cannot install additional model packs or licenses for those programs. Q: Can I purchase model packs and /or plug-ins without a credit card? A: Our accounting system is only set up to accept transactions with a credit card. This includes the prepaid type.
  14. Phantom power is DC (or direct current) used to power certain microphones, the UX2 and KB37 offer 48-Volt signal to a condenser microphone by connecting it to the XLR input on the unit. The UX1 does not have phantom power, if you have a microphone that requires such power you will need to get either a standalone microphone preamplifier or one that is built into an audio mixer's input channel. Also available are stand alone phantom power boxes. (A good example of this device is the Rolls PB23 Phantom Power Supply). Phantom power is not harmful to mics that don't need it. If a mic does not need phantom power it will ignore the 48-Volts being sent the the microphone. Even with the Phantom Power on, your UX2 or KB37 can have both a mic that requires Phantom Power and a mic that does not require Phantom Power.
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