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  1. Hi everyone. I have a question, I want to use my Helix for guitar and vocals simultaneously. The thing is, it will be with two musicians, a guitarist who will be up and down, and me on vocals. The issue is that I would like to control various parameters of the vocals (delay, occasional echo, etc.), and not have to be aware of the pedalboard, which the guitarist will be using. I've thought about adding an external pedal, like a switch on/off, to assign those effects, and with my own two or three buttons, without having to be aware of the pedalboard. Do you know if this can be done? And if so, what pedal do you recommend? I need at least two buttons. Thank you.
  2. If you are having trouble with your DL-4 MkII stompbox modeler, please try the following: - Use a different guitar, cables, and amp to make sure they are individually working correctly. - Remove all other pedals between your instrument and the amplifier. Ensure that: - The cables you are using to test work correctly by plugging directly from the instrument into the amplifier. - All jacks and nuts on the pedal are tight. - The unit is receiving sufficient power from the correct power supply (fresh batteries or a Line 6 DC-3g, DC-3h or DC-1g). Do not use old batteries to test pedals. - Reset the pedal by pressing the A and 'Tap' footswitches while inserting the power connector and powering on. Continue to hold the switches for approximately 8 seconds, until you see the green LEDs light up. - The last thing to try is to reinstall the firmware. Go to https://line6.com/software/index.html, choose "DL4 MkII" and "Firmware" from the menus, then follow the directions listed with the latest firmware entry. If you are still having difficulty you will need to have the unit repaired at an Authorized Service Center. All Line 6 Pedals carry a 12 month parts and labor warranty from the date of purchase from an Authorized Retailer. Please take a copy of the dated proof of purchase to ensure the warranty is covered. Product Repair Line 6 Product Warranty
  3. Here is a quick guide on assigning dual momentary footswitch options to your HX Stomp or HX Stomp XL using the external switch jack: Global Settings > Preferences > Page 2 will show EXP FS Tip and EXP FS Ring. These setting should be assigned to FS4/FS7 and FS5/FS8 accordingly. Next menu item over: Global Settings > Footswitches > FS4(FS7) Function, FS5(FS8) Function assignment on page 2. These can be assigned to different functions such as Stomp buttons OR Preset up and down. HX Stomp Controllers & Snapshots video
  4. Deutsch Français Please review this link as a further explanation on topics that are covered in the document below: http://www.churchproduction.com/story/main/a-small-churchs-guide-to-working-with-wireless/3 As the environment is the biggest factor in wireless audio performance, there is a chance that certain environments and circumstances will not allow for satisfactory performance. This can be verified by successful performance in a different environment. This is an extremely informative video on how all wireless gear works in a WiFi rich environment RF mode switching Relay G30/50/90 and XDV70/75, if set up with the latest firmware have two RF modes. This means two separate sets of channels to choose from. First thing to try is switching your transmitter to another RF mode. Below are videos to help you switch over. Note: If you have multiple members in your band with Line 6 wireless, everyone needs to be on the same RF mode. Pre-Qualification: First Things To Rule Out: Use the factory power supply Try fresh alkaline batteries (a couple of times if it's a battery problem), not rechargables Try on more than one channel! Try in more than one place/venue Check the transmitter LEDs during drops/interference. RF dropouts result in the green LEDs going completely off. Even one green LED means the signal is present and something other than the wireless system is causing the problem. If you see full red LEDs followed by quickly shifting back to green, it means that the system has re-synced (normal if the dropout is too long). The red LEDs come on only if the intended signal from a Line 6 transmitter is not present. In this case, they are showing RF competing for the same space. Interference: Symptoms Reduction of RF LEDs on the front panel that indicate usable RF signal strength Audio signal muting Possible causes Trying to function at too great a distance Having unintentional transmitters, such as walkie talkies or in-ear monitors, too close to a receiver Significant amount of close-by RF signals within the same 2.4GHz range (Wi-Fi, microwave ovens, etc.) Suggestion "Walk test" your system in advance of an event over the entire desired range to verify that sufficient RF signal is available to avoid mutes from occurring With transmitter off and receiver turned on, scroll through the channels. Red LEDs indicate stray RF on that channel. Choose channels that exhibit the least red LEDs. Note: Line 6 wireless WILL still operate but at reduced range. Decreased Range Symptoms Reduction in range in general Reduced range indoors vs. outdoors Possible causes Blocked "Line of Sight" between the receiver's antennas and the transmitter's antennas Barriers such as walls or air-curtains can impede the path of radio waves Transmitter strength reduced if it must pass through walls Transmitting through earth (receiver in basement) Human bodies absorbing RF energy Cupping the bottom of the handheld mic (covering the antenna) Beltpack transmitter is used in pocket or next to skin Receiver antennas for the XD-V systems are very close to other intentional radiators in the same frequency band such as Wi-Fi wireless access points Incorrect cables on paddle antennas (requires low-loss 50-ohm cables; e.g. LMR-195) Suggestions Improve "Line of Sight" Use the XD-V70/G90 with remote paddle antennas and separate the antennas by several feet. G90 Users: Make certain that you have the proper antenna jacks selected in the setup window. C&D are the front antennas and A&B are the rear. The units may work even if you have it set incorrectly, but the range may be only 10-20 feet. There is also a position for "both" as the G90 can be used with 4 antennas for increased reliability. Weak Audio (thin audio output compared to other wireless systems) Symptom Weak and/or noisy audio output Possible causes Gain/trim settings on mixer need adjustment Plugging into a "line level" input Plugging into a channel with pads engaged Using a TRS plug in the 1/4" unbalanced output The "Environment Filter" may not operate correctly if signal is too weak, especially when using lav mics Suggestions Adjust gain/trim as if using a wired microphone Connect the XLR output (G90 only) on the receiver to an XLR input on the mixer Use a mono plug in the 1/4" unbalanced output, never a TRS plug Turn "Environment Filter" off Dropouts ("Audio" vs "RF" dropout: different paths to correct) Symptoms Audio signal interrupted Possible causes Transmitter on "low" power to save battery life and reduce RF interference to other devices Local conditions in one or more venues, e.g. a large Wi-Fi installation in close proximity, metal walls/roof Instruments or amps being used are faulty Signal chain issue Blocked "Line of Sight" between the receiver's antennas and the transmitter's antennas Transmitter is muted Loose antennas Antennas straight up and down or too close to walls Other XD-Vs/Relays operating on the same channel Unused transmitter too close to receiver Receiver's antennas near any transmitters such as walkie-talkies, In-Ear Monitors, etc Using a substitute power supply Batteries dying or unseated Suggestions Switch transmitter to "high" power Try a different venue to reproduce problem Try multiple instruments/amps to reproduce problem Trace signal through chain one component at a time. "Audio" LED lights when signal is received. Improve "Line of Sight" by moving receiver or taking transmitter out of pocket Unmute transmitter. On the G50/G90/V70 transmitter, the LCD screen remains lit when in mute mode. Raise antennas to 6-8 feet high while avoiding obstacles such as metal posts, walls, etc. Ensure antennas are connected firmly and splayed at 90 degrees with nothing touching them Ensure each system has its own unique channel to operate on Move intended transmitter closer to receiver than unintended transmitter to eliminate "near/far" issue. Switch closer transmitter to low power when possible. Provide ample distance between the XD-V receiver and other transmitters. The distance will depend on the strength of the transmitter and the gain of the transmitting antenna. Use the factory power supply or one that can supply the required 9v DC current: XD-V - 350 ma, G30 - 200mA, G50 - 300 mA. If you are using a pedalboard supply, it must be able to supply this amount of power to the receiver in addition to whatever else you have plugged into it. Reinstall batteries or replace them. If using rechargables, try with standard alkaline to test. Perform channel scan (XDV 70/G90 sytems only) The Scan Channel feature checks all available channels for interference, and recommends the best channels to use: • Press Channel Select button, then press the Setup Button. • The Display shows all 14 possible channels. The best channels are highlighted, and if the transmitter is on there’s also indication of which channel that’s currently set to. • Turn the Edit knob to select one of the channels that’s highlighted as best to use, and select that same channel on the transmitter Q: Does USB 3.0 create interference in the 2.4GHz frequency range? A: USB 3.0 computer cables and peripherals, including hard drives, are known to emit radio frequency interference throughout the 2.4GHz band, which results in reduced range and/or performance for any 2.4GHz device in its proximity (including wireless keyboard or mouse, WiFi, etc.). We recommend placing any digital wireless receivers at least two meters away from the USB 3.0 device and its cabling. Below is a link to a study by Intel regarding this interference. http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html References for working with wireless systems http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-line-of-sight_propagation http://www.djsociety.org/Wireless.htm Digital Wireless Audio Fehlerbehebung Bitte klicken Sie auf folgenden Link um weitere Erklärung über dieses Thema zu erhalten: http://www.churchproduction.com/story/main/a-small-churchs-guide-to-working-with-wireless/3 Da die Umgebung der größte Faktor der kabellosen Audio-Performance ist, gibt es auch eine Chance, dass gewisse Umgebungen und Umstände keine zufriedenstellende Performance ermöglichen. Dies kann anhand eines Tests in einer anderen Umgebung überprüft werden. Voraussetzungen und die ersten Dinge, die es auszuschließen gilt: Benutzen Sie das originale, mitgelieferte Netzteil. Versuchen Sie mehrere Male neue Alkaline Batterien, keine aufladbaren. Versuchen Sie es auf mehreren Kanälen. Versuchen Sie es an anderen Austragungsorten und Plätzen. Überprüfen Sie den Transmitter-LED während einer Störung oder eines Ausfalls. Wenn die grünen LEDs ausgehen, dann ist das ein RF Ausfall. Sogar nur ein grünes LED bedeutet, dass ein Signal besteht und etwas anderes ist die Problemquelle. Wenn alle roten LEDs leuchten und dann plötzlich auf grün wechseln, bedeutet das, dass das System neu synchronisiert hat. (Dies ist normal, wenn der Ausfall zu lange andaurt.) Die roten LEDs gehen nur dann an, wenn kein Signal vorhanden ist. Interferenzen: Symptome: Weniger RF LEDs leuchten auf der Vorderseite auf. Audio Signal verstummt. Mögliche Problemquellen: Der Versuch, das System auf zu großer Distanz laufen zu lassen. Ungewollte Sender, wie Walkie-Talkies oder In-Ear Monitore, die zu nah am Empfänger sind. Viele RF Signale im selben 2.4GHz Frequenzbereich. (WiFi, Mikrowelle, etc.) Vorschläge: Testen Sie Ihr System im Vorfeld bei benötigter Reichweite um zu überprüfen, ob genügend RF Signal vorhanden ist um Stummschaltungen durch Interferenzen zu vermeiden. Scrollen Sie durch die Kanäle während der Sender an- und der Empfänger ausgeschaltet ist. Rote LEDs bedeuten, dass das RF Signal verstreut ist. Wählen Sie einen Kanal, der am wenigsten rote LEDs anzeigt. Achtung, Line 6 Wireless wird auch bei mehr roten LEDs funktionieren jedoch mit verringerter Reichweite. Verringerte Reichweite: Symptome: Verringerte Reichweite im Generellen. Weniger Reichweite innen als außen. Mögliche Fehlerquellen: Versperrte Sichtlinie zwischen Empfänger-Antenne und Sender-Antenne. Barrieren, wie Wände oder Luft-Vorhänge können den Weg der Funkwellen beeinträchtigen. Die Stärke des Sender ist verringert wenn das Signal durch Wände muss. Senden durch Erdboden (z.B. Empfänger im Untergeschoss.) Menschliche Körper, die RF Energie absorbieren. Die Unterseite des kabellosen Mikrofons festhalten. (Mikrofon bedecken.) Beltpack Sender in der Hosentasche oder nahe der Haut. Empfänger-Antennen, wie die des XD-V Systems sind sehr nah an anderen unerwünschten Sendern in der selben Frequenzreichweite, wie z.B. WiFi Zugriffspunkte. Falsche Kabel an Paddel-Antennen angeschlossen. (benötigen verlustarme 50 Ohm Kabel, z.B. LMR-195) Vorschläge: Verbessern Sie die Sichtlinie. Benutzen Sie das XD-V70/G90 mit Paddel-Antennen und verteilen Sie die Antennen 1-2 Meter voneinander. G90 Benutzer: Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie die korrekten Antennenanschlüsse im Setup Menu ausgewählt haben. C und D sind für die vorderen Antennen und A und B sind für die hinteren. Vielleicht funktioniert das ganze auch bei falscher Einstellung aber dann ist die Reichweite nur bei 3-6 Metern. Es gibt auch eine Postion "Both" beim G90, da es mit 4 Antennen benutzt werden kann um die Zuverlässigkeit zu verbessern. Schwaches Audiosignal. (Wenig Audio-Output im Gegensatz zu anderen kabellosen Systemen.) Symptom: Schwaches und/oder rauschender Ton. Mögliche Gründe: Die Gain/Trim Einstellungen brauchen eine Anpassung. Anschluss an einen "Line Level" Eingang. Anschluss an einen Kanal, dessen Absenkung (Pad) angeschaltet ist. Die Nutzung eines TRS Steckers mit einem 6.35mm asymmetrischen Ausgang. Der "Environment Filter" funktioniert vielleicht nicht korrekt wenn das Signal zu schwach ist, besonders wenn Sie lav Mikrofone verwenden. Vorschläge: Stellen Sie Gain/Trim ein als ob Sie ein Mikrofon mit Kabel verwenden würden. Verbinden Sie den XLR Ausgang (nur G90) auf dem Empfänger mit dam XLR Eingang des Mixers. Benutzen Sie einen Mono Stecker für den 6.35mm asymmetrischen Ausgang, niemals einen TRS. Schalten Sie den "Environment Filter" ab. Ausfälle: Symptome: Unterbrochenes Audiosignal. Mögliche Gründe: Sender steht auf "Low" um Batterie zu sparen und RF Interferenzen bei anderen Geräten zu verringern. Lokale Bedingungen auf verschiedenen Veranstaltungsorten wie z.B. eine große WiFi Installation vor Ort, die nahe Ihres Systems ist, sowie Metallwände oder Dächer. Instrumente oder Verstärker , die verwendet werden sind fehlerhaft/defekt. Problem in der Signalkette. Sichtlinie zwischen Antenne des Empfängers und Antenne des Senders blockiert. Der Sender ist stummgeschaltet. Lockere Antennen. Antennen sind vertikal aufgestellt oder zu nah an einer Wand. Andere XD-V/Relay Systeme werden im selben Kanal betrieben. Die Antennen des Empfängers sind zu nah an anderen Sender wie z.B. Walkie-Talkies oder In-Ear Monitoren. Die Nutzung eines Ersatznetzteils. Batterien wird leer oder sitzt nicht korrekt. Vorschläge: Schalten Sie den Transmitter auf "High". Versuchen Sie es in einer anderen Umgebung um das Problem zu reproduzieren. Versuchen Sie verschiedene Instrumente/Verstärker um so das Problem zu reproduzieren. Verfolgen Sie das Signal durch die Kette ein Gerät nach dem anderen. "Audio" LEDs gehen an, wenn ein Signal besteht. Verbessern Sie die Sichtlinie indem Sie den Empfänger versetzen oder den Sender aus der Hosentasche nehmen. Heben Sie die Stummschaltung auf. Auf den G50/G90/V70 Sender bleibt der LCD Bildschirm auch dann an, wenn das Gerät im Stumm-Modus ist. Bringen Sie die Antennen auf eine 2-3Meter höhere Position während Sie andere Hindernisse wie Metallpfosten oder Wände. Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Antennen ordentlich befestigt und 90Grad gespreizt sind sodass nichts sie berührt. Stellen Sie sicher, dass jedes System seinen eigenen Kanal hat. Bewegen Sie den beabsichtigten Sender näher an den Empfänger als den nicht beabsichtigten um so Near/Far Problemen vorzubeugen. Schalten Sie den näheren Sender auf "Low" wenn möglich. Sorgen Sie für reichlich Platz zwischen XD-V Empfänger und anderen Sender. Die Distanz hängt von der Stärke des Senders und Gain von der sendenen Antenne ab. Verwenden Sie das mitgelieferte Netzteil oder eines, welches 9V Gleichstrom (XD-V – 350mA, G30 – 200mA, G50 – 300mA) liefert. Wenn Sie ein Pedalboard Netzteil verwenden muss diese diesen Strom liefern auch mit anderen angeschlossenen Geräten. Stecken Sie die Batterien neu ein oder ersetzen Sie diese. Wenn Sie aufladbare Batterien benutzen, versuchen Sie es mit Alkaline Batterien. Entstehen Interferenzen durch USB 3.0 im 2,4GHz Frequenzbereich? USB 3.0 Computerkabel und –geräte sind dafür bekannt Interferenzen bei Radio Frequenzen im 2,4GHz Bereich zu erzeugen was zu verringerter Reichweite und Performance für alle 2.4GHz Geräte (inklusive kabellose Tastatur oder Maus sowie WiFi und viele andere) in der Nähe führen kann. Wir empfehlen alle digitalen Kabellosempfänger mindestens 2m von den USB 3.0 Geräten und deren Verkablung weit weg zu plazieren. Nachstehend können Sie einen Link zur Untersuchung von Intel über Interferenzen mit USB 3.0 finden: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html Referenzen um mit kabellosen Systemen zu arbeiten: (Englisch) http://en.wikipedia....ght_propagation http://www.djsociety.org/Wireless.htm Dépannage audio numérique sans fil: Veuillez visiter le site web suivant pour des informations supplémentaires concernant ce sujet s.v.p.: http://www.churchproduction.com/story/main/a-small-churchs-guide-to-working-with-wireless/3 L'environnement est le facteur le plus important dans la performance audio sans fil, donc il y en a une possibilité que certains environnements et cas ne permettent pas le bon déroulement. Ceci peut-être vérifié par un bon rendement dans un environnement différent. Conditions: Premières choses à exclure: Utilisez l'alimentation fournie d'usine. Essayez des batteries alcalines nouvelles. Essayez dans plusieurs places/lieus. Surveillez le LED du transmetteur au cours des interférences et chutes. Les échecs de RF causent le LED vert de s'éteindre. Un LED vert veut dire que ce n'est pas le système sans fil. Si vous voyez des LEDs rouges qui changent à vert rapidement veut dire que le système a resynchronisé (c'est une réaction si l'échec prend trop longtemps). Les LED rouges s'allument si le récepteur ne reçoit aucun signal d'un transmetteur Line 6. Interférence: Symptômes: Réduction des LEDs sur le panneau avant qui indique la puissance du signal RF utilisable. Signal audio en sourdine. Causes possibles: Essayer de fonctionner à une trop grande distance. Transmetteurs involontaires, comme walkie talkies ou moniteurs in-earqui sont trop près du récepteur. Quantité significative des signaux RF près dans la gamme 2.4GHz. (WiFi, micro-ondes, etc.) Propositions: Testez votre système avant l'événement sur la gamme de fréquences pour vérifier qu'assez de signal RF est disponible. Comme-ca vous pouvez éviter les interférences. Avec transmetteur éteint et récepteur allumé, faites défiler les canaux. Les LED rouges indiquent que le signal RF est dispersé sur ce canal. Choisissez le canal qui montre le moins LEDs rouges. Gamme diminuée: Symptômes: Réduction de gamme en général. Gamme réduite à l'intérieur par rapport à l'extérieur. Causes possibles: Ligne de mire bloquée entre le récepteur et les antennes du transmetteur. Les barrières comme murs ou rideaux d'air peuvent entraver le trajet des ondes radio. Puissance du transmetteur réduit à cause des murs. Transmettre à travers la terre. (récepteur sous-sol) Corps humains absorbent d'énergie RF. Couvrir le bas du microphone donc couvrir l'antenne. Transmetteur Beltpack en poche ou près de la peau. Câbles incorrectes des antennes paddles. (requis des câbles faible perte 50Ohms comme le LMR-195.) Propositions: Améliorez la ligne de mire. Utilisez le XD-V70/G90 avec des antennes paddles à distance et séparez les antennes 1 ou 2 mètres. Utilisateurs G90: Assurez vous que vous avec sélecté les propres jacks antennes dans la fenêtre Setup. C et D sont les antennes de devant et A et B en arrière. Peut-être que cela va fonctionner même si c'est configuré faux mais ca réduit la gamme à 3-6 mètres. Il y en a aussi une position "Both" parce que le G90 peut-être utilisé avec 4 antennes pour fiabilité augmentée. Audio faible (sortie audio maigre par rapport aux autres systèmes sans fil.) Symptômes: Sortie de son faible et/ou bruyant. Causes possibles: Réglages Gain/Trim ont besoin d'un ajustement. Brancher dans une entrée "Line Level". Brancher dans un canal avec pad atténuateur activé. L'utilisation d'une fiche TRS dans une sortie 6.35mm asymétrique. Le «Environment Filter» ne peut pas fonctionner correctement si le signal est trop faible, en particulier lors de l'utilisation des micros à lav Propositions: Ajustez Gain/Trim comme avec un micro à câble. Connectez la sortie XLR (seulement pour le G90) du récepteur avec une entrée XLR du mélangeur. Utilisez une fiche Mono dans la sortie 6.35mm asymétrique. Jamais un TRS. Désactivez le "Environment Filter". Décrochages: Symptômes: Signal audio interrompu. Possibles causes: Le transmetteur est sur puissance "Low" pour économiser la batterie et réduire les interférences RF à autres appareils. Conditions locales comme une installation WiFi large en proximité ou des murs en métal. Instruments ou amplis utilisés sont défectueux. Erreur de la chaîne de signaux. Ligne de mire bloquée entre le récepteur et les antennes du transmetteur. Transmetteur en sourdine. Antennes relâchés. Antennes exactement verticales ou trop près du mur. Autres appareils XD-V/Relay sui fonctionnent sur ​​le même canal. Transmetteur inutile trop près du récepteur. Antennes du récepteur trop près à autres transmetteurs comme walkie-talkies, moniteurs in-ear, etc. L'utilisation d'une alimentation de remplacement. Batteries qui meurent ou sont relâchés. Propositions: Mettez le transmetteur sur "High". Essayez un autre lieu pour reproduire le problème. Essayez autre instruments et amplis pour reproduite le problème. Tracez le signal à travers de la chaîne un composant à la fois. "Audio" LED lorsque le signal est reçu. Améliorez la ligne de mire en déplaçant le récepteur ou prenant l'émetteur hors de la poche. Réactivez l'émetteur. Pour les transmetteurs G50/G90/V70, l'écran LCD reste allumé si en mode en sourdine. Déplacez les antennes 2-3 mètres vers le haut en évitant les obstacles comme des poteaux métalliques, murs, etc... Assurez-vous que les antennes sont connectées correctement et évasés à 90 degrés sans rien les toucher. Assurez-vous que tous les systèmes ont un canal séparé. Déplacez l'émetteur destiné plus proche du récepteur que l'émetteur non désirées pour éliminer le problème "near / far". Mettez l'émetteur plus proche sur "Low" lorsque c'est possible. Donnez une distance suffisante entre le récepteur XD-V et autres transmetteurs. La distance dépend de la puissance du transmetteur et du Gain de l'antenne qui transmet. Utilisez l'alimentation fournie d'usine ou une alimentation de 9V CC: XD-V – 350mA, G30 – 200mA, G50 - 300mA. Si vous utilisez une alimentation pedalboard, il doit livrer cette énergie à l'émetteur. Réinstallez les batteries ou remplacez-les. Si vous utilisez des rechargeables, essayez des alcalines pour tester. Est-ce que USB 3.0 crée des interférences dans la gamme de fréquences 2,4 GHz? Les câbles et périphériques USB 3.0 sont connus pour émettre des interférences de fréquence radio dans la bande 2,4 GHz, que cause une gamme et/ou performance des appareils 2.4 GHz réduite dans la proximité. (Y inclus sont les claviers ou souris sans fil, WiFi, etc.) Nous recommandons de placer le récepteur sans fil numérique au moins 2 mètres loin des appareils USB 3.0 et ses câbles. Voici un lien vers une étude réalisée par Intel au sujet de cette interférence: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/io/universal-serial-bus/usb3-frequency-interference-paper.html Références pour travailler avec des systèmes sans fils: (anglais) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-line-of-sight_propagation http://www.djsociety.org/Wireless.htm
  5. Hello, This unit has always worked without any issue, but all of a sudden I connected it as usual and it didn't turn on. At the beginning I thought it was completely broken but because I was still hearing that click after turn it on, I tried connecting the USB to the computer and realized that it was working there as usual, and the effects too when connected to the amp. I've tried resetting and reinstalling the firmware but it's still the same. Have anyone experienced the same issue or something similar?
  6. Hi all! I take my Helix back and forth from rehearsal space every week. When I'm not using my Helix as an audio interface, I got my Focusrite 2i2 hooked up to my monitors. Is there a way to more easily switch between the two than unplugging the audio cables from the Focusrite and plugging them in the Helix? Basically, can I hook up both my Focusrite and Helix to the same speakers, and switch as I need to? This way my Focusrite is always plugged in, and I can just plug in the Helix when I can and switch to it. How would I go about this? Cheers!
  7. Hi, I have a Spider V 60 and I've just picked up a second hand Shortboard MkII. However som of the switches do not respond. I have googled away a few hours and find that it's a fairly common problem. I understand the solution but can't find the parts. On the old forum, someone posted the switch details as a 6mm TACTILE SWITCH, THRUHOL made by GC Electronics, part number PTS645SL43-P. Anyone know where I could find this switch or similar in the UK? I've looked on a few sites and there are lots of similar switches. As far as i can tell it is 6mm (is that 6mm x 6mm ?) On-Off switch rather than momentary but there still seems to be options. Help please! Thanks Pete
  8. My brand new Variax has had only intermittent success when I've used the switch to go from mags to modeling. Oftentimes it sticks when I use it, and sometimes I can depress it several times yet still the thing won't switch modes. This can happen while switching from/to either the modeling or the mags. I seem to notice a higher success rate if I remember to hold the switch down for a couple of seconds before releasing it. Other than the problem stated it seems properly installed, and it doesn't wobble or anything. Questions: Is the switch intended to operate in the manner described so as to curtail inadvertent switching while playing? If not, should I be worried? (It is still in the return period, so I could ship 'er back for a replacement model.) Is there a simple fix? THANKS in advance for your help! Mike
  9. I've got a Line 6 Spider V 240HC with the matching 412 cab, and an FBV Express MKII foot controller. Im trying to figure out how to save certain amps to certain Letter Pedals. Like save cowboys from hell to a (or whichever) and save something clean, like acoustic rhythm, to another letter pedal, like b (or whichever) to where when im playing a show, i dont have to go back to my amp and switch from heavy to clean, especially when its quick changes in songs that cant be dragged out. Help is very much appreciated.
  10. Dear Helix (floor) experts, I need your help, having an issue on the A/B-switch. I'll describe my setup first: I am using the helix (2.53) in dual mode: 1 signal path goes usually directly into FOH, the other one is used to feed my amp by 4-cable-method (4CM). That gives a nice, fat sound, like 3 rhythm guitarists playing unisono. In my setlist I use a preset for every single song we play and do the in-song-changing (amp channel and master volume [MIDI], FX etc.) with snapshots. Task & solution: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- I am supposed to play the opener and I have 3 signal paths planned for this to get huge, spacey sounds out of my guitar and helix. One (path 2) is used for a synthesizer pad sound (no guitar signal in) by 3 OSC synth (XLR out into FOH). This one should not concern us anymore, works exactly as it should. The other signal path 1 (guitar input) is split up (A/B switch): Path 1A (above) is feeding the signal into a FX chain, the output goes directly into FOH (XLR left/right). Works fine, too. Path 1B of this signal path is going by SEND/RETURN 1 and some FX into my amp (1/4" out). This one works as well. The 4 snapshots and their sequence would be: 1: start with path 1A (FX - A/B switch = [A100%] - of course, with the brackets!!) 2: add path 2 (synth pad - identical to snapshot 1, just turning on the 3 OSC synth) 3: add path 1B (amp - identical to snapshot 2, just A/B switch turned to [even]) 4: finishing the opener with just path 1B active (only amp, nothing else - like snapshot 1, just with A/B switch adjusted to [B100%]). The problem: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Helix does not seem to be consistent with this A/B switch. It all works as intended until I get to reach snapshot 3. Once the A/B-switch has changed to [A/B even], it won't accept any other setting anymore (exception: snapshot 1). Means, it stays on [even], ignoring the individual path programming in snapshot 2 and 4. The display DOES show the original programming, but the DSP is simply ignoring it. Anyone got any idea, what exactly is the problem behind this and how it can be solved??? I am really puzzled here ...
  11. Hi guys, I'm looking to find a way to activate wah just pushing the switch under the exp pedal (like in Boss Gt* pedalboards). By now, the only way I found, is to set wah on one of the switch, click on it and then go back to the exp pedal: too much time wasted! Anyone knows a faster way to set it? Thanks a lot, cheers!
  12. So I use for Helix for more them half a year I think so I know how to use it and I know that to change between those two you need to step hard enough on the pedal, and it worked good till this monday. Now it does not change as good as it did. I have to push a lot harder and even when I do it doesn't switch in most of the times. And when it does there is also a problem that I see that it changes for a moment and then goes back like I pushed it twice(which, of course, didn't). Couldn't find anything on this topic by myself, so hope someone can help me with this.
  13. Here is what I am looking for... I'd like to run two amps (one for clean tone, one for dirty tone w/ possible tube screamer), and be able to alternate between the two. Initially, I was thinking of running dual signal path for this, and then setting everything to the same switch (pressing the switch turns on dirty amp mod and tube screamer, and turns off clean amp and vice-versa), but I would need the unused path to be muted. I would assume the other way to do it (in the same patch) would be to run the amps in series. I am running a mono output, so I don't need stereo signals. I'd rather not have to set a different patch (in each block of 4) for each different tone in a song. And I would also be concerned about the delay between switching (the firehawk was a nightmare with this, I didn't keep it long...). I'm new to the PODHD world, and I've only been able to spend a few hours with the HD500x thus far. If anyone can give me good insight into how to set this up, I'd appreciate it. For a little more info, I'll be leaning towards the higher gain amps for my dirty tone (Fireball, Elektrik, etc.), and so far I'm liking the blackface for my cleans. My amp rig is a 6505 on an 212 orange cab with vintage 30s. I love my dirty tone from the amp, but I'm currently just using it as a power-amp to see what the HD can do. I find running it into the effect return on the head sounds much better than the instrument line in on the front.
  14. Good morning, I have a variax guitar JTV59 model since 3 years and I notice that the switch/pickup selector has a problem. When I select down position I have no sound, I think it's broken. Pickup selector can be changed easily ? Does it need special assistance ? I'm in France and it's really difficult to find a Line6 specialize shop.
  15. Hello everyone, I am completely new to the Helix world but I have an important issue. Can somebody tell me if and if so how you can use a Helix to switch between amplifier channels on a PRS Archon 100 Watt amplifier? I would love to combine the channels with my presets with the touch of 1 button. Now I have to press both the external channel switcher and the Helix which causes timing problems because certain music requires instant switching. With kind regards, Ezra
  16. Hello there Spider V user. My problem: If I want to use the tab Switch to tab the delay time, it dosen´t work. Also if I use the swich on my FBV3. Is it an function, that can be disabled in the menu of the amp? Would like to get an answer quick, cause I use the feature very often. Regards, Andreas PS: The Spider App does work so bad and there is no Editor for PC. I hope the Line6 Team will change the missing things rapidly. It is so uncomfortable, using the amp at home without an PC editor. Also it would be helpfull, the USB Unit on the Spider can load the tab by using, cause it is impossible to use app and loading with a separat unit at the same time.
  17. Hello, I started this topic is this section because you don't have a section for my amp. I know my amp is a bogner but they told me that it was manufactured by line6 so I'm seeking help with you. When I connect my footswitch, sometimes the amp randomly changes channel. I have a friend that also has that amp and his started to randomly switching channels even with the footswitch connected. I believe this is a problem with the relay switching, maybe it gets overheated os something... Can you provide some kind of help? Thanks
  18. Hi everyone! I happily joined the Line6 club recently and I am really surprised by the sounds I can get from my HD300 unit, but recently I started to have problems with the switches, nobody changed something in it hardware-wise, everything is factory-like. It's easier to show you in a video what's the problem so: I found out that by holding the A switch you enter in a button test mode "P16 TEST MODE", the screen shows "Knob ExtPdl" or "Knob IntPdl" and whatever I push it just jumps back at that and their value keep changing random. After a few days the problem got worse, now there are some LEDs that light up togheter with others, like the green tremolo light when the orange delay is on, and they sometimes flicker together with the tap LED. It's just like everything is short circuiting. I don't know if there is an authorized service in Romania so I could send them the unit.
  19. Hi everyone.. I had a Line 6 Spider Valve 212, and when i plug in FBV2 footswitch its delay when i want to switch betwen chanels, and after that it changes randomly... I tried FBV2 on other Line 6 amp and it worked correct... Please help if you now something becouse i have some gig for about 10 days so i realy need help... Thanks...
  20. My Helix is on the way!!! :) Does the helix "know" automatically what type of output it is plugged int to? I have a DT 25 that I practice with but when I play at church I plug directly into the mixer using xlr. Will the Helix automatically adjust the sounds based on what output I'm using? If not I'll need to duplicate every patch, 1 version for amped and 1 version for mixer.
  21. I've been scratching my head for some time now trying to work out how the pickup switching works in my JTV-89, mainly because, although I like the pickups, I wanted to have more options on the magnetic side. I wanted something like what I would want on a HSH strat. That is: two 4conductor humbuckers with duncan triple shots and a single coil sized humbucker in the middle. The switch, as it is, doesn't give any option to add another pickup, because all four (well, five) conductors are soldered on a small PCB that's attached to the selector and it's impossible to see inside the selector to find some way to add anything or change any of the pickup/coil settings, so... I went and opened it. Well, I didn't exactly open the one inside my guitar, but a spare I got from the spanish distributor. The switch was failing and I didn't want to send the JTV to tech service because they are sluggish, so I asked them for a replacement switch and they sent it, on the condition that the guitar would be serviced at the store where I bought it. In fact, they did send the wrong switch the first time, so I ended up with two, one that seems to belong to a JTV-69 and the one I needed. I've been a customer for a long time, so the people at the store agreed to let me change it myself, which I never did, because once I bought a hardcase for the guitar, the switch stopped failing so often (It almost never fails now and I've worked out a way to quickly get it back to normal). So I opened the selector and found out how it works. It works in the same way a superswitch would, only this one is preset. There are fixed contacts and mobile ones. The fixed ones are printed in a way that does the coil splitting in positions 2 and 4 and does, well... you know... what a JTV-89 does with its mags :-) The switch is some kind of 2P5T, where on one pole you select the magnetic pickup setting and on the other you select modeling pickup setting. On the modeling side, the contacts are arranged in a standard fashion. Bad news first: The modeling side of the switch has three resistors (18,65k, 75,1k and 37,2k are the exact values, though they most likely correspond to standard values of 18k, 75k and 36k) and I'm guessing the variax brain detects which position the selector is on based on the resistance measured between the two contacts that go out the PCB. Good news: The values of those resistors are standard and they are possible to replicate, so you can use a standard two pole five throw blade selector and add another pickup (or whatever you want to do with your five) Better news: The lower PCB can be desoldered from the selector and soldered to a different one, so you don't have to mess around with resistor values and provide some new small board to solder them onto. PICTURES: YES!! I know I should include pictures in this very post, and at this very moment, but my camera is out of battery and my phone isn't good enough, so you'll have to wait, but the pics will come. I won't actually modify the guitar until the triple shots and the duckbucker are here, then I will have a friend route the guitar for me and then I will do the electronics so, for now, the only pics I'll post are the ones of the selectors. In a month or two (when I can buy the stuff) I'll start doing the mods
  22. Hey guys new to the forum here hoping you can help out. I have a weird situation with my pod hd500x that has me stumped. I have a patch set up with 2 of the same amp(one top of chain and one directly below it). What I have done is set it to where only one amp is active at a time with the press of a button. (what this is accomplishing for me is adjusting a preset gain on the amp in question by actually switching to a different amp) The problem I am having is once I switch one amp off I get the "dry" bleed through in my live mix. any ideas?? I have a gig this weekend and I would like to figure this out. cheers, shawn
  23. Hello all, I have had my HD500x for a little over a year. Love it, I use it only for FX and use my 5150 for amp sounds. Lately, my switch that is next to the tap switch, and sometimes the one to the left of that, will switch on the effect I have set up there. Doesn't matter which scene I have loaded, it will still do this. I have an idea of what it is, and two different fixes for it, what do you all think this is? I actually have video of my last band practice of it doing this if you want to see it fail. Has this happened to you guys? Is it common? What caused it and what do I do? Thanks :)
  24. Hi all, I had a "plain-jane" Variax way back when (2004-5?) which I sold when I was saving for a house with my wife. I have been dying to try the new breed and decided to take the plunge on a beautiful, yet used, JTV-59. I didn't have time to mess around with it past making sure it made sounds before I brought it home from Guitar Center, but I may have found an issue that many on these boards may already be aware of. Serial no is W12030341 so I'm thinking it's March 2012 production, but I believe it has the pickup selector switch problem I've found archived here in the forums. The switch works flawlessly with the magnetic pickups, but when the models are on the switch does nothing. If I press the Alt Tuning Knob it seems to switch between models 1 and 2 of whichever bank I'm on. I was trying to get creative with my HD500x and simply control all the model changing with my feet but that is starting to eat up preset real estate an reduces spontaneity. At $699 plus tax this was a deal, but if I need to send it in for repairs I have to ask myself when the savings is no longer savings. I haven't decided yet so I thought I'd check out here for some feedback. Thanks!
  25. Hi! I have a problem in my HD500X with exp toe switch- he doesn't works... Please, help me! It's new, I bought it 2 weeks ago :(
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