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I thought this might be of interest to any Variax owners out there! https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Line-6-We-are-seeking-candidates-for-1-on-1-product-feedback/869224-23508

Hello, I have a somewhat special question. I use the POD HD500X with a 4 cable method over a tube amp (ie no modeling) and a Strat. For some songs, I use the Variax with sitar and acoustic guitar sounds. These sounds should of course not go through the amp, but with some effects directly into the mixer. Question: How do I have to configure the POD so that the Strat signal will only go through the Amp (not the Mixer) and the Acoustic Sounds into the mixer (not the amp)? Somewhere I've read something, with a configuration of the two channels left and right, but does not know how that goes ... I would be very glad if someone could help me here. Thanks and Regards Martin

Hello All, I've tried researching this topic myself but to no avail so I humbly come to the forum asking for help. I recently purchased a Line 6 Variax Standard (white) about 10 days ago. Three days ago, I finally got some time to explore the guitar. That's when I noticed that most of the alternate tunings when played through multiple amplifiers / heads give this horrible, screechy, octave, feedback when played. Standard works fine. Open G ("Blues G") works alright, except for the A string. Anything else, even 1/2 step down is unplayable. I really don't want to return the guitar as, when it comes to the model and playablity, I love it. What I've Done So Far 1. Downloaded Line 6 Monkey and reinstalled all firmware updates 2. Downloaded the workbench Are there any other patches / installations that can fix this, or is it a hardware issue that I will not be able to fix by myself? Overall, I think the guitar is awesome, but I can't look past the alternate tuning not work...even though I will, 99.9% of the time, play in standard. Any help is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Mike

Hi everyone. I am new here. New Variax Standard does not work. Out of the box I played guitar for 40 - 60 minutes and then suddenly stopped, the silence :(. I checked the batteries = OK, I checked the cables = OK. Knobs shine :). Progam Worckbench recognizes and responds to the guitar. Magnetic Pickup = OK guitar playing. what can I do ? can you help me somehow? Adam p.s sorry for my English. Greetings from Poland

I am interested in hacking an old Pod (or whatever) to provide a simple 1U (or smaller) unit that can be midi controlled. Basically it's a way to build my Variax VDI Idea so I don't have to wait for Line 6. What is the smallest / most hackible Variax controller that can work with my JTV and output both mags + model? Can you order just a mainboard from Line 6? This would be just for controlling the models and providing both feeds as inputs to another system.

I have had a JTV-69 for almost three years and have a somewhat love hate relationship. I use it a bunch to play with bands because of its versatility but am not the biggest fan of its play-ability. I have a fleet of various other guitars and I have to admit I am more a Les Paul or PRS Custom 24 fan. I love the Strat sound but not the biggest fan of its neck feel. I also love my Ibanez shredding guitars but play a different style of music. The JTV-69 doesn't give me higher register access and I just don't get a great feel for the neck. My question is -> is it worthwhile picking up a JTV-89F for its play-ability, neck feel and upper register access? I know it will have the same modeled sounds but it mags will be completely different but I use the guitar mostly for the modeled sounds anyway...

Hi fellow variax freaks, I have a conundrum, and wonder if anyone may be in a position to help out in return for some unwanted piezos from Variax 300 and 600 - see piezo details below. *** I enquired at a local (Australian) Line 6 distributor regarding buying a jackplate assembly for a newly purchased second hand vaxplant, which has the original variax 300 jackplate assembly, (which requires surgical precision to get the little rubber boot provided to cover the RJ45 connection), and I figure since I already have two other vaxplants, I may as well buy two, so I have a spare. I already bought two, (around three years ago), for less than $30AUD each, though as it turned out, (legacy version no longer available), they were the bass versions, which are interchangable with the 300-700 series (with a little chisel handiwork). See link.. http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/218353-Line-6-50-04-0181-4 Yesterday, the local supplier quoted me $100 each, and they would be for the JTV69 model version - apparently also interchangable....(?) So, I'm a little old fashioned, in so much as I'm not really that interested in lining people's pockets in arbitrary ways, such as this kind of price hike would suggest is occurring, and it would appear I can't order from Full Compass, cos I don't reside in the requisite 50-odd states.... So, it brings me to this random, weirdo request for someone who may may fancy some 2nd hand L R Baggs piezos (14 in total - (new RRP circa $13US each - http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/114557-Line-6-11-11-0001 ), worth around a hunjee in anyone's terms, in exchange for acquiring a couple of the jackplate assemblies, and sending them to me in Australia. I'm happy to despatch first, via registered post, and send you an email showing tracking information. In fact, I have other hardware, eg unused variax 300/600 bits I could throw into the equation also, just to inspire some mutually satisfying trans-global weirdness. ***I upgraded to Ghosts while doing transplants, and have unwanted (but still fully functioning when removed), L R Baggs piezos - a total of 14, including 2 brand new, unused, that I bought as spares. I initially thought that two piezos were failing in a second hand 300 that I bought, and upon installing the new graphtechs, while I did a transplant, the problem disappeared for a short while, but soon returned. The first E and B piezos take some time (15 minutes) to wake up, after the variax is plugged in. They then become fully operational, and because the same problem still exists, it must be a problem with the PCB, not the piezos. I get around it, by plugging it in, while I continue my setup at a gig, and as such is a non-issue. Yours, in weirdness, Ian.

Thanks for viewing my Post. Heres my issue with as much detail as I can possibly Muster. I have started this specific thread because I am connected only to a MAC computer (compatible SierraOS) I DO NOT have a POD, or any other connected device and only seem to find threads with issues to connect to other devices or threads that get derailed / go nowhere. Trying very hard to be Patient as the Guitar plays like a Dream just doesn't Model ;) Here we Go: 1. I have a New JTV59 with the Included Battery, Charger and USB interface (VDI?) and accompanying "ethernet" cable, Pilots Handbook, Allan wrenches etc... 2. I have Charged the Battery Fully (Over twelve hours with slow red blink on charger) 3. I have 4 Green LEDs on the back that stay on for 3 seconds and disappear when the Battery is placed into the Guitar. 4. I have Sound working with Magnetic Pickups only (like any regular guitar would) through 1/4" jack 5. I have Monkey Recognizing the USB interface 6. I have Installed the Latest versions Monkey and Workbench HD (as monkey prompted me to) 6. I have the 1/4 inch Jack and VDI "Ethernet" Cable attached to the Guitar Despite attempting all the different suggestions on this Forum 1. I do not have any LEDs lighting under the Modeling or Alt-Tuning Knobs 2. The Four Green LEDs on the Back flash a few times when pressing the little Circular switch then turn off 3. Monkey Does not recognize the Guitar 4. WorkBench HD does not recognize the Guitar 5. USB interface Is Green (computer side) and Flashing Red (Guitar Side) 5. I do not hear any "Relay Click" when the 1/4" standard guitar cable is connected (With or Without VDI connected) 6. I have no Modeling sound whether through an amp connected to 1/4" I have tried adding pieces of Paper to the inside of the Modeling Knob (Which 1/100 times will "Click" when pressed down) I have tried Switching the "Tone Switch" to Position 3 and 5 with Modeling knob in position Custom 1 I have tried to wear the battery down a bit and reseat it numerous times. I have tried to check the internal Contacts of the Battery Case with a multimeter and see expected voltages being provided by the Battery. The three contacts from battery to case are firmly seated. I Have tried using a different "Ethernet" Cable (This is the last thing I've tried) I am in Mexico for two months and do not have the ability to simply return the Guitar for a replacement. Happy to provide any further information / Photos / Video!!! Truly Hoping someone on this Forum can help a Guy out! :D Much Appreciated :D

I know people took issue with the odd look of the first gen Variax models (what with the missing pickups and all that), but hear me out: I think the next generation of Variax guitars should go back to that look again. I feel like putting the technology into a normally-functioning guitar that can operate independently of said modeling technology turns it into an afterthought and risks making it seem like a gimmick. The Variax should embrace it's strangeness and just be what it is, a guitar that accurately models other guitars digitally while being something completely new to the music world. Furthermore, I believe that the Variax models themselves shouldn't physically be modeled after famous guitars, such as the James Tyler take on the Les Paul and the Standard's take on the Strat: doing so can cause a bit of a cognitive dissonance with the player, because you're looking down and playing something that looks like a Strat but sounds like a Les Paul and it almost feels wrong at times. The 700 model, with it's PRS-like vibe, was the most logical design of all of the models we've ever seen because it wasn't a ubiquitous design associated with a specific sound, and the Variax guitar absolutely deserves to be a guitar of it's own.

Hello, I'm absolutely new to the POD HD500X and Variax JTV69s. No matter if i plug the guitar in with the Variax Digital Input (VDI) or the 1/4" guitar Input and listen in headphones from the POD it sounds really bad. All dist sounds are razor sharp digitally and unpleasant and not very much difference when switching sounds either, only more or less dist and bass/treble. I'm not 100% sure if my output is Studio/Direct (have to check that tonight) but everything is default as i i just bought the POD. Maybe i should change the JTV69s to a regular JTV69 or 89 instead? I tried connecting it to computer with USB and it sounded just as bad and i also got 1/2 sec delay on everything (headphones in the POD). Would it be better to connect the POD analogue out to an external soundcard like the PreSonus Audiobox iTwo or Scarlett 2i2 and use external monitors for listening? I'm living in an apartment so i can't use a real amp/speaker. Thanks

Hi. I switched from Variax 600 to JTV-59 TSB and find some problems for which I hope somebody can enlighten me. Using input 1 "Variax Mags" and input 2 "Variax" seems to lift the signal, so I have chosen "Aux" on second input path. Same on all patches which are using the modeling exclusively (bank 2). I use just one centered path, so path B is muted at all. But there are questions appearing... is "Aux" the best choise for a deaktivated signal-path? what happens in case 2 when I play 1/4 and batteries are weak? Is there still a mags-fallback, even if the second input is deactivated? My first bank is optimized for the mags. My 2nd bank is optimized for modeling. Both banks are configurated path-wise as described above... ...but why is the modeling-knob on the JTV enlighted, when I chosse patch C and D in my 1st bank? They seem to be configurated the same way as A and B :wacko: In my 2nd bank it is patch B where the light is off :unsure: :wacko: :blink: I am really confused at the moment :mellow: This behavior can be reproduced with or without USB/HD Edit connection.

This summer i baught a variax guitar (variax standard). I love the accoustic presets and have a lot of fun messing about in my homestudio, but lately ive seen tons of vids on youtube etc.. where people use the workbench to sorta make new guitars, tweaqes etc.. And i would LOVE to try that. Once i got the guitar i installed both the workbench and the linemonkey, but havnt tried any of them until today, and i cant get it to work :( So i was hoping someone could tell me what im doing wrong.. My set up is: The guitar is plugged into my "focusrite solo" with a standard electric guitar cable, the focusrite is plugged into my computer via USB. I have the guitar "on" with the lights glowing on model and tuning and fully charged battery. *I doubleclick the variax workbench symbol on my desktop and get a grey thingy that pops up and says "MIDI port error, the midi port you have selected could not be opened"- I dont think i have selected a midi port, but maybe my settings elsewhere is wrong, in my DAW i use the "Focusrite ASIO" (simply because it works well on my guitars, mics and even my midi-keyboard so maybe that is something? I then click "configure" and up comes a handful of drawings of guitars with an "X" and next to it it says " Microsoft GS wavetable synth" on OUT and "No device detected" next to the ones that doesnt say "variax". I have also downloaded and installed the USB driver called "Variax USB Interface Driver v1.0.7.2 Installer.exe". But things remain the same..Am i missing something? I had hoped it would pop right up after my guitar was plugged in and turned on.. Thanks in advance RobertAllan

Just picked up a helix this weekend and so far I'm loving it! First order of business was to recreate my main patch that I've been using for years on my HD500X. It's based on a Dr. Z model and I've been really happy tone wise. Quite honestly it was the additional features, routing, options, etc that drew me to Helix. I wasn't unhappy with my tone at all. So anyway I built the patch in Helix and thought it would be fun to A/B them. Here's a link to it on Soundcloud. Dr.Z amp and cab, some reverb, delay, and a couple of tube screamers. I'll take a few guesses on which is which before I say what's what, just for fun :) https://soundcloud.com/chuskey/helix-vs-hd500 Technical bits: Used a Variax via the VDI. Captured the dry signal via USB and reamped, so it's the same performance for both tracks.

I know - there were some threads dealing with that. But I would like to talk this up again in a more moderate way :P I am still owner of the 'old' dreamrig: JTV (Variax) --> POD HD (500) --> DT amp. POD HD is connected to computer via USB. This signal chain and workflow is really amazing! I can edit edit every part of the chain via PC and hear the 'final result' at once without regulary interrupting (annoying plugging / unplugging) the signal flow (no USB interface needed for editing Variax models). So, please :wub: (guess what...) :rolleyes: I know, it's on the Helix checking off list (as DI called it). To me, it'll be a wonderful christmas present - so this is on my 'Helix wish list' this year!

I'm a newb....just got my JTV 69 this week, so I hope this is just a stupid mistake on my part; I'm unable to access guitar models on positions 2 and 4 of my 5-way selector switch! I know according to the manual I should be able to access them on all positions. I'm able to assign models to those positions in work bench but on the guitar, when I switch to those positions, I still hear model 1 on 2, and model 3 on 4. Anybody have a clue what this is all about?

So today I discovered that the "Dry-Out" output on my POD HD PRO X doesn't work when I'm connected through Variax input. If I plug-in through the front "Guitar" input it'll work just fine. Am I missing something here? perhaps some configuration in the menus that will allow me to mirror Variax dry input straight to the "dry-out" output on the back of my POD HD PRO X? I'm hoping to use this output aside from both the L-R outputs for a live setting. Thanks in advance for any replies.

Clean piezo signal from JTV Idea Actions JTV guitars have a great option - to play with modelled sound or to use real pickups ("mags"). It would be useful to have the same opportunity for piezo pickups - to play with clean piezo sound without modelling You can vote here: http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Clean-piezo-signal-from-JTV/515946-23508

Hey stupid question probably but I am away from all of my Variax's and I would like to know if both the VDI and quarter inch outputs can produce output at the same time. I am asking because I use the VDI to control my patches and and use the output to my Helix but would like to send the dry signal (1/4) output to a TC Helicon voice harmonizer. I know I could use the helix to send an out but just curious as to whether the Variax could do it also. Thanks in advance! Lefty

So I finally got sick of my battery always being dead on my JTV59 and purchased the Variax Power Cable Kit, which is AWESOME!...with one semi-major flaw for me...I can't seem to find a good long-length TRS cable to use with it! I didn't realize initially that it needed a TRS until I received the included 15' cable. I have become a HUGE fan of braided cables and can't seem to find a good braided cable to use with the power kit. Anyone else have this problem and have you found a great braided cable to use? I'll post if I track something down for future forum members. -sd

I love my Variax standard and it's only being used for home use, I plug it into my spider amp ,and also use an old r.m.s acoustic amp for the acoustic side of things, my question is has anybody used one of the Yamaha thr amps with good results ? Also could I run my hd500x into the front of an thr ? . Thank you .

Hi all, New member to the forum here. I am the proud owner of a AMPLIFi 75 as well as M5 stompbox modeller (in addition to an obscene number of other guitars, amps and pedals! :-)). I presently have the opportunity to buy a Variax 500 guitar at a reasonable price and am wondering if there is any benefit to using such a guitar over just a regular electric guitar with the AMPLIFi 75? In other words, please give me a good excuse to add the Variax500 to my growing staple of guitars :-) Advance thanks for your thoughts and/or suggestions, Cheers, v281

Hopefully this will help those seeking solution to this same problem, I searched the forum and found nothing.......so hear it is; Two of the slits on the graphite nut had horrible slippage from day 1, UNbeliveable!!!! Mostly the high E string, just from picking the string it would POP right off the frigin nut!! and same for the D string only on bends around 2/3rd fret. Impatiently I started to hack away on it with a utility razor and still, finally I got the strings to stay put BUT now I have bad string buzz and neck and action/springs everything has been adjusted to various positions but....yes, I messed up and cut too deep. I have all the setup the way I like it but the high E buzz persist. Any one have the correct size info. for replacement NUT, so I can just replace it with a better one? I rather buy it my self then have to go through the warranty process and wait. Please HELP, thanx it advance.

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forums and - after much lurking - finally ready to build my dream guitar. Over the years, Line 6 has received quite a bit of my money. ;) So far, I have/had in my house the following products: - Variax 300 Acoustic - Variax 4-string bass - POD 2 with all the X3 updates - Pocket POD (will purchase on Friday) - POD UX 2 (will purchase this weekend) - Varix 300 Electric ... and if I had any more money, I'd probably spend it on some of the newer Line 6 products. :D Instead, like so many of you, I am looking forward to creating my own dream guitar with the electronics that I have in the Variax 300 (Electric). In the last 20+ years, I have used Ibanez guitars exclusively. Because my JS1000 is too thin for a transplant, I have decided to use a painted RG-type "semi"-blank (no Floyd, only humbucker and jack cavities so far) and an old GIO 25 1/2", 22-fret neck (square pocket) to build the guitar that I really want. Since wizard-luthiers Jeff Miller and Roosevelt Walker (midirose) have all but disappeared from the internet (and I don't have facebook :(), I only have you guys/gals to whom I can address my questions. I would appreciate it if some of my final questions could be answered; and that this list - given how comprehensive it - can help other future builders find their answers, too. --- Ok, here goes: Preparing the Body: 1.) Can I switch between magnetic pickups and the Variax 300 piezos by drilling an additional hole for a killswitch (thus not using them at the same time, of course)? 2.) If I can keep both the magnetic pickups and the Variax piezos, is this body thick enough to route the Variax 300 electronics from the back of the guitar? 3.) As you all know, the electronics of the Variax 300 come in a HUGE triangular shaped box (like a tin coffin). Can I pull the electronics from the coffin, so they fit better into the back cavity? 4.) Can I cut through the knob plate in order to facilitate the positioning of the knobs and the routing? 5.) I have seen a few back cavities in transplants that look like the letter "L" sideways. Any ideas where I can buy that type of template online? 6.) What's the best way to cover that type of "L" cavity? A ply of wood, or simply the material luthiers use for customized pickguards? I think the latter is less work... :P 7.) Do I have to drill 6 holes to hold the string ends, as it is the case for the Variax 300, or can I use a hardtail bridge with piezos (e.g. Graphtech Ghost)? 8.) If I can't figure out how to transplant the piezos from the saddle into a hardtail, how do I measure the Variax 300 "neck pocket - saddle - string hole" distance on a RG body? Does the distance matter? Electronics: 9.) If I cut the electronics into more sizeable pieces, do I need to isolate the cavities/parts with copper/conducive foil, to minimize noise and distortion? 10.) Can I connect my magnetic pickups directly to the Variax tone and volume knobs? (total: 1 tone + 1 volume + 1 model selector), or do I need separate knobs (total: 2 tone + 2 volume + 1 model selector)? 11.) Apart from a killswitch, is there another way to switch between the pickups on stage? 12.) One of my family members is a retired technician. He knows a lot about building TVs, radios and telephones. Will he be able to route the wires correctly? 13.) Are there any wiring templates for the "Variax 300 + two humbuckers" online? 14.) If everything above gets a green light, I'd then need to route/drill Back: - one "L" shaped cavity to hold the Variax 300 electronics - one rectangular cavity for the battery pack Side: - one bigger cavity for the dual Variax 300 jack Front: - two holes to hold the saddle with the piezos - six holes to hold the string ends - three holes for the Volume, Tone and Selector knobs, respectively - one hole for the humbucker selector switch (neck, n/b,bridge) - one hole for the piezo/humbucker killswitch - one small hole for the piezo ribbon that leads to the mainboard unit - two small holes for all the humbucker wires Is my math correct? --- Thanks again for all the help you are providing and for keeping their legacy products alive... one way, or the other. :) I'm looking forward to your answers. VX

Hi. When I record my Variax 600 in Cubase 8 AI, it leads to a gap at the beginning (like an enormous latency). I am using the POD HD500x which is USB-connected to an iMac. If I use a regular guitar everything is correct. The recording starts right at the beginning and listening to the live-tone and tempo-click everything sounds okay. But when the recording ends there is a gap of nearly 1 second since the tone starts and it ends with the same (here as an overlap). Any ideas? I will try to reproduce this behavior in Audacity later… EDIT: Don't know how to get rid of latency using Audacity. So, no way to reproduce the problem :(

If I get a nice, braided ethernet cable and connected some Neutrik ethercon ends, it seems like I could have a better VDI cable than is currently available in the market. But how can one activate the locking tab on the RJ-45 connectors with the Neutrik sleeve covering it? I know a few of you have made these already - do you have to break the tab off? Is it locked in the "open" position? Something else? Appreciate any insights y'all can provide. Cheers - Dan