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  1. Hello, I want to send the MIDI Clock from my selected song in OnSong to my Helix - wirelessly. After days of experimenting I finally found this page OnSong's website that says OnSong' s MIDI Clock should never be used wirelessly due to latency problems. Since I'm a bit stubborn I thought there might be a way around this, where I can somehow use OnSong to send a MIDI message to the Helix to just set the BPM of the selected Helix Preset without using MIDI Clock. Any ideas if this is possible? Many thanks in advance! Peter
  2. I upgraded my Pod go wireless to the latest firmware (1.40), but I was still sufferring occasional dropouts with the wireless, I went into Line 6 Updater and connected the Relay to the Guitar Input on the Pod, and the update to firmware 2.05 was displayed for the Relay. I followed through the update without an Issue, but now I am left with a permanent red light on the Relay (when connected to Pod or Guitar) and no wireless connection between the two. I have tried downgrading the Pod firmware, but this did not help. The Relay is not recognised in Line 6 Updater anymore. Pod Edit does not recognise it either, so I am seemingly unable to dorngrade the firmware. When the Relay is connected to the Pod it appears to charge (according to the display on the Pod) but the light on the Relay remains static red. I have opened a support ticket, and I'm waiting for a response. Is anyone else having this Issue?
  3. In some cases when docking G10TII in a receiver for firmware update, the transmitter LED may briefly indicate green before changing to flashing red. This is normal. If the transmitter is docked in the receiver device, and the receiver is powered off or power is disconnected (e.g., connected power strip is turned off), the transmitter will enter sleep mode after 4 minutes. When the receiver is powered on again, the transmitter must be un-docked and re-docked before charging will resume. Powering a G10 receiver or G10S receiver from the USB port of a Mac or PC is not supported (this may or may not work, but cannot be guaranteed as it depends on the amount of current available from the computer). If POD Go Wireless is connected to a Mac or PC with the Line 6 Updater app open, and a G10T or G10TII transmitter is docked in the POD Go Wireless, it may take several seconds before the transmitter appears within the Line 6 Updater window. For users of the original G10T transmitter only, the G10S receiver’s battery LED segment will now indicate a solid red LED for the low battery state, without flashing. Each time the G10TII transmitter on the 2.05.0 firmware is docked in a receiver device, the G10TII LED will flash red for 3 minutes while the device’s battery data is read. This will occur even if the G10TII is already at or near a full charge (after that 3 minutes, a transmitter that is at or near a full charge would change to flashing green and eventually to solid green, depending on its charge level).
  4. I play bass guitar through a Helix Stomp and recently added a Sennheiser Evolution Wireless Digital instrument set to my live setup (LINK to what that is: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Sennheiser/EW-D-Evolution-Wireless-Digital-System-with-CI1-Instrument-Cable-Q1-6-1500000339492.gc?storeCode=&source=4WWMWXGL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlK-WBhDjARIsAO2sErR4iue2DwqVQKA5DhR-8bNieH1Kb-4tiLocBO63nI5-QMQ1MVM4N4YaApluEALw_wcB). The Sennheiser plugs into the mono input of the Stomp, and the Stomp has an output that goes into our power amp. When we rehearsed and played a show with our own setup, everything worked perfectly. But when we played a venue that had their own setup, I had an issue where sound was coming through when I was tuning even though I have it on mute. This didn't happen with our own setup so I was wondering why at the venue the mute was being bypassed. Does anyone have any ideas on what would be causing this and how I can fix it?
  5. I'm on my 3rd Pod Go Wireless in as many weeks (no, really - 3 in 3 weeks). The first one had issues with the wireless connection - I could be directly in front of the main unit and it would lose connection (I could see the signal go from 3 bars to disappearing completely as I sat there not moving) and would cause severely choppy audio. The 2nd (replacement) was clearly a customer return - it had already been opened and failed to even boot up (thanks Guitar Center). The 3rd (re-re-replacement) has the exact same issues as the first. Can anyone help? I've updated the firmware to 1.30. I literally have to be sitting next to it and facing slightly to the side and even then it is pretty unreliable. I have the Yamaha THR amp which uses the same G10TII wireless relays and have no issues whatsoever with it - even if I leave the room and go down the stairs! At this point I regret paying the extra for wireless support when it seems pretty broken in this device. Can anyone help? I already raised a support ticket with Line 6 (for the first one) and they just told me to return it ... which I did, and that hasn't helped.
  6. Relay G10TII Information Important Information About the G10TII Transmitter · The recommended charging temperature range of the G10TII transmitter is specified as 50° F to 86° F (10° C to 30° C). · The recommended operating temperature range of the G10TII transmitter is specified as 32° F to 122° F (0° C to 50° C). · Line 6 recommends charging the G10TII transmitter at least every 6 months, based on best practices for lithium-ion batteries. · G10TII LED behavior is as follows: G10TII Transmitter (Docked in G10/G10S Receiver, POD Go Wireless, Spider V amp or THR10II/THR30II/THR30IIA Wireless amp)* LED State Condition Red (slow flash) Charging, less than 30 minutes battery time remaining † Green (slow flash) Charging, more than 30 minutes battery time remaining Green (solid) Fully charged ‡ Dim Red/Pink, may turn off G10TII is not docked properly – Try un-docking and re-docking 5-10 times Red (three quick flashes, repeating) G10T charging has stopped due to exceeding supported temperature. Charging will resume after 5 minutes at 50° F to 86° F (10° C to 30° C) § Orange (solid) Docked and connected to Mac or PC, firmware update in progress Off Receiver not powered (transmitter enters sleep mode after 4 minutes if receiver power is disconnected) G10TII Transmitter (Connected to Instrument) LED State Condition Green (solid) Transmitting, more than 30 minutes battery time remaining Red (slow flash) Transmitting, less than 30 minutes battery time remaining Off Connected to an instrument but not enough battery to transmit ‖ or Removed from instrument *When the G10TII is docked in a receiver or Relay-Ready device, the G10TII LED initially indicates amber, red, or green, depending on its current battery state. This is followed by four flashes (red) as the device initializes. Once this completes, the G10TII LED proceeds to indicate its remaining battery time. † All values stated for amount of battery time remaining are approximate, and the exact amount of battery time remaining when an LED state is indicated may vary slightly between charges. When the G10TII flashes red, it may have up to 60 minutes of battery time remaining. ‡ If the G10TII reaches a full charge (solid green) and remains docked, the G10TII LED may eventually flash green again. This is expected behavior as the G10TII may discharge slightly after reaching a full charge, and its LED may then flash green until it again reaches a full charge. § If the charging lockout indication continues for over 10 minutes, please stop charging and try again in a cooler environment condition. ‖ When the G10TII has insufficient power to transmit, its LED may indicate a pattern of five quick red flashes when connected to an instrument and audio is detected. This is the expected behavior. G10 Receiver (G10TII Transmitter docked) LED State Condition White (solid) G10TII charging or fully charged White (flicker) System has auto-scanned and is changing its channel Red (flash) G10TII not docked properly – Try undocking and redocking Pink (pulse) Connected to Mac or PC, Line 6 Updater open Pink (solid) Connected to Mac or PC, firmware update in progress Off No power to receiver G10 Receiver (G10TII Transmitter un-docked) LED State Condition White (solid) G10TII transmission received, more than 30 minutes of runtime Red (slow flash) G10TII transmission received, less than 30 minutes of runtime White (pulse) Receiver on but no G10TII transmission received White (flicker) G10TII transmission dropout (RF mute) Off No power to receiver G10S Receiver (G10TII Transmitter docked) LED State Condition Battery LEDs Green (cycle 1-2-3) G10TII charging 3 Green LEDs (solid) G10TII fully charged RF LEDs 3 Red LEDs (solid) More than 75% interference (not usable) 2 Red LEDs (solid) 50% interference (usable, but only for short range) 1 Red LED (solid) 25% interference (usable, also indicates G10S power on) Battery LEDs Off RF LEDs On Battery LEDs – Off RF LEDs – Red (cycle 3-2-1) G10TII not docked properly – Try undocking and redocking Battery LEDs – Off RF LEDs – 3 Red LEDs (solid) Connected to Mac or PC, Line 6 Updater open All LEDs Off No power to receiver G10S Receiver (G10TII Transmitter un-docked) LED State Condition Battery LEDs 3 Green LEDs (solid) G10TII transmission received, more than 4.5 hours of runtime* 2 Green LEDs (solid) G10TII transmission received, more than 3 hours of runtime 1 Green LED (solid) G10TII transmission received, more than 1.5 hours of runtime 1 Red LED (solid) G10TII transmission received, more than 30 minutes of runtime 1 Red LED (flash) G10TII transmission received, less than 30 minutes of runtime RF LEDs 3 Green LEDs (solid) G10TII transmission received, good signal strength 2 Green LEDs (solid) G10TII transmission received, average signal strength 1 Green LED (solid) G10TII transmission received, poor signal strength 3 Red LEDs (solid) No G10TII transmission received, more than 75% interference (not usable) 2 Red LEDs (solid) No G10TII transmission received, 50% interference (usable, but only for short range) 1 Red LED (solid) No G10TII transmission received, 25% interference (usable, also indicates G10S power on) Red (cycle 3-2-1) G10S channel knob has been changed from its setting since G10TII was last docked All LEDs off No power to receiver * All values stated for amount of battery time remaining are approximate, and the exact amount of battery time remaining when a LED state is indicated on the G10S receiver may vary slightly between charges of the G10TII Transmitter.
  7. Click here to see the original POD Go FAQ. This FAQ will only focus on the wireless aspects of POD Go Wireless. Q: POD Go? POD Go Wireless? What’s the difference? A: POD Go Wireless has a built-in Relay® wireless receiver, ships with a Line 6 Relay G10TII wireless transmitter, charges the transmitter from its GUITAR IN jack, and includes a convenient storage well in the back panel for transport.* Other than that, they’re pretty much identical. So when you see “POD Go” in our materials, assume we also mean POD Go Wireless. In the manual, any POD Go Wireless-specific content will appear in blue text with a wireless icon. *NOTE: POD Go Wireless also supports the earlier Line 6 Relay G10T transmitter. A G10T transmitter should be updated to the latest firmware. Q: Where are the antennas? A: The diversity antennas positioned internally above the toe portion of the pedal receive the RF signal from the G10T transmitter. Avoid covering the antenna with cables, stickers, or other pedals. Q: Where should I store the transmitter when not in use? A: When not using or charging the included G10TII wireless transmitter, insert it into the storage well on the back of the unit below the toe portion of the pedal. Q: How do I charge the transmitter? A: Connect the included G10TII wireless transmitter to the GUITAR IN jack to charge its battery. IMPORTANT! If you turn off POD Go Wireless while a G10T or G10TII is in the Guitar/Charge port, it will remain in sleep mode and slowly lose charge over a week or so. Not a problem if you play POD Go every day, but a huge bummer when you come back from vacation. While in the storage well, the G10T/G10TII may retain its charge for a month or more, so it’s ready to go when you are. Q: How do I set up the wireless connection? A: POD Go Wireless has a built-in Relay® wireless receiver and includes a Relay G10TII wireless transmitter, so you can play untethered. 1. Anytime you bring POD Go Wireless into a new room or building, always connect the G10T transmitter to POD Go’s GUITAR IN jack. POD Go Wireless scans the environment to choose the optimal wireless channel and frequency. 2. Wait 10 to 15 seconds. 3. Remove the transmitter from POD Go Wireless and connect it to your guitar’s output. The G10TII’s battery lasts for 7 hours of playing time or about a month when inserted into the rear panel storage well. 4. Select the Input block on your POD Go Wireless device, press the lower knob, and choose either the “Guitar+Wireless” or “Wireless” as your input source. TIPS For best wireless performance, try to maintain line-of-sight between the G10T wireless transmitter and the antenna above the expression pedal. POD Go wireless has a line-of-sight range of up to 100 feet (30 meters). Facing away from POD Go Wireless can sometimes affect wireless performance, as your body can interfere with wireless signals. Also avoid covering the antenna with cables, other pedals, or small woodland creatures. Maintain a safe distance (at least 10 feet/3 meters, but preferably more) from 2.4GHz WiFi routers. If a WiFi router must be in your performance environment, switch it to operate at 5GHz, if possible. Q: How do I read the Transmitter Battery and Signal Indicators? A: At the top left of the LCD screen, POD Go Wireless always displays two icons: the Battery Life indicator and either the RF Quality indicator, or the Charging or Syncing icon, as pictured and described below. The first time POD Go Wireless is powered on, the battery outline is empty and the RF bars display as dimmed, indicating no transmitter can be found (see No Tx Found below). 1. Connect G10T to POD Go Wireless’ GUITAR IN jack. While the transmitter is syncing, a sync icon (circular arrows) is displayed. Once syncing is complete, while the transmitter is connected to the GUITAR IN jack, a blue charging icon (lightning bolt) is displayed. When fully charged, the battery icon is displayed with all three battery bars bright green. NOTE: Any time you move POD Go Wireless into a new environment, connect the G10T to its GUITAR IN jack to perform a sync. Sync scans the frequency spectrum and automatically chooses the optimal wireless channel. You may also manually select the wireless channel from the Global Settings > Wireless menu. 2. Once sufficiently charged, remove the transmitter from the GUITAR IN jack and connect to your guitar’s output. POD Go Wireless continues to show the transmitter battery life indicator as well as a 3-bar RF signal strength indicator to its right. When no active transmitter is detected, an “empty” battery and dim RF bars are shown (see No Tx Found below). The remaining battery time and RF signal strength values are indicated as described below: Battery Life Indicator > 4.5 hours - Full green battery 3 hours-4.5 hours - 2/3 full green battery 1.5 hours-3 hours - 1/3 full green battery 30 mins-1.5 hours - 1/3 full red battery < 30 mins. - 1/3 full flashing red battery No Tx Found - Empty battery RF Indicator RF High - Three bars RF Medium - Two bars RF Low - One bar No Tx Found - Zero bars IMPORTANT! The G10T transmitter’s LED lights green when powered on and the battery has more than 30 minutes left. If the battery has less than 30 minutes left, the LED flashes red. To extend battery life, sleep mode is activated after a period of 4 minutes where no audio input is detected. The transmitter “wakes up” when the instrument is played. Q: How do I use multiple POD Go Wireless systems? A: Up to four POD Go Wireless and/or standalone Line 6 Relay wireless systems can be used on the same stage. However, care should be taken to ensure all systems are set up properly: 1. For the first system, connect the G10T transmitter to the POD Go Wireless GUITAR IN jack and wait 10 to 15 seconds. Make sure the transmitter’s LED lights green. 2. Connect the transmitter to your guitar’s output. 3. Before the first transmitter goes to sleep (after 4 minutes of no audio input), repeat the above steps 1 and 2 for any additional POD Go Wireless systems. Each system’s scanning procedure works around other active wireless channels to help ensure high quality performance for all systems. Q: How do I set up the Input and Output blocks? A: The Input and Output blocks appear at the far left and right of your signal flow. The Input and Output block settings are saved per preset. From Edit view, turn the Upper Knob to select the Input block and then turn the Lower Knob to change the input. Guitar+Wireless: POD Go Wireless users should choose Guitar+Wireless so both the GUITAR IN and G10T wireless transmitter are active Guitar: Choose this option to receive input only from the 1/4" GUITAR IN Wireless: (POD Go Wireless) Choose this Wireless option to receive input only from the G10T wireless transmitter USB 3/4: USB inputs 3/4 can be used for re-amping, or processing tracks from your Mac or Windows DAW software. NOTE: POD Go also receives input from USB 1/2, but it’s dedicated for monitoring audio from your computer (or iPad) and bypasses all processing blocks. As such, USB 1/2 is not available as an input block source. TIP: POD Go Wireless users can choose Guitar for some presets and Wireless for others, effectively turning the Input block into an input switcher. Q: How do I set the Wireless Global Settings? A: Knob 1 controls the "RF Channel" parameter. This sets the radio frequency channel for the POD Go Wireless RELAY system. Normally, this should be set to “Auto,” where POD Go Wireless automatically picks the RF channel for the most reliable performance. Knob 2 controls the "Cable Tone" parameter. Players who traditionally use long guitar cables may find the POD Go Wireless RELAY system to sound too pristine. Cable Tone lets you replicate the unique treble roll-off that guitar cables naturally create. Choose “Off” for the widest possible frequency response, 10 feet (3 meters), or 30 feet (9 meters). Knob 3 controls the "Wireless Gain" parameter. This sets the overall gain of the wireless guitar signal. Normally, this should be left at 0.0dB, but if your wireless signal appears notably louder or softer than your other guitars, adjust to taste. Q: Will POD Go Wireless work with other Relay transmitters? A: It was not designed to, and we do not condone doing so. Even if it does work, it may perform unreliably. Q: I have presets from the original POD Go. Will I have any issues with using them with POD Go Wireless? A: The files are compatible. One thing to note is that POD Go Wireless converts "Guitar" input blocks from presets saved on the original POD Go to "Guitar+Wireless" Input blocks automatically when they are imported to the wireless SKU. So that shouldn't be an issue.
  8. I have the P180 AND the P360 paddles for my XD-V75 systems. I ALREADY KNOW that I can use either set of paddles with the XD-V75 AND I can even use the XD-AD8 to use ONE set of paddles for up to 8 XD-V75 systems. What I am asking about is COMBINING both sets of paddles to 2 XD-V75 (rackmounted side-by-side in my rig). I KNOW (and already have configured) the 2 XD-V75s can share the antenna inputs. I am looking for a 2.4Ghz antenna combiner with BNC connectors, so I can use all 4 paddles together. The P180s for on stage and the P360s for audience coverage. Has anyone tried this? Issues with doing this? Thank you!
  9. Hi - I recently bought a Spider V60 mkii and am looking to get a wireless transmitter. I wondered if any other transmitters other than the GT10T will work with the internal transceiver built into the amp. I know that is the recommended one and supported one, but wondered whether others will also work
  10. I'd like to know if there's someway to connect my helix lt to my pc wirelessly? The usb cable is becoming a pain to deal with....I was wondering if there were any hardware solutions to extend usb wirelessly? Cheers
  11. Hi all, I was 99% settled on selling off my amp, cab and pedalboard in favour of a Helix, until I realised I would still want to use my G30 wireless system. I'm currently using a TC Electronic G System, which has four super convenient 9v power outputs for powering pedals in it's various loops. I was frankly amazed at what looks like a huge oversight in the design of the Helix, that while it is designed to be an "all-in-one" solution it does have the option to loop in other pedals yet has no solution to provide power to them. I'm really obsessive about cable management and having everything as neat and tidy as possible on my pedalboards, so the absolute last thing I am willing to do is have some ugly power strip on the back of a pedalboard not only wasting space but also cluttering it up just for the sake of 1 9v power adapter for my wireless. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced product which might offer a tidy and effective power solution to both the 240v Helix requirement, and a single 9v requirement?? Huge thanks in advance!!! Liam
  12. Icon G-board for HX STOMP (iPhone version) https://gum.co/ALVVU New Premium MIDI Layout for MIDI DESIGNER PRO 2 ( IOS App, sold separately) - Works as an enterely wireless MIDI controller (using the yamaha or the Quicco MIDI-BT wireless adapter) - Also works with USB cable (using an Apple CCK connected to the HX STOMP USB) - Provides full hardware support for the iCon G-Board (MIDI footcontroller), including the eight onboard LEDs. Requires the Apple CCK USB3 and the Wireless MIDI-BT device to work. Main Screen: - Covers almost all HX STOMP MIDI implementation. (the "Play Once" button was deliberately ommited in this version) - Adds memory for 8 banks (A-H) of 4 Presets. (no more running correlative presets Up and Down!) Performance Screen: - Once you have set your banks in the main screen, load this Performance view to have a real Head Up Display for your HX STOMP. Includes the most relevant performance controls and a funny icon for each Bank! Icon G-Board: - Upper row: FS 1-4 (selectable Presets on the iPhone Screen) X 8 Banks (A-H) 1/4 LED active - Lower row: Snapshots 1-3. Super FS momentary footswitch (selectable FS 1-5 function) 1/3 LED active + 1 momentary
  13. Alright, this is a bit of a stretch but I'm curious what the people here have to suggest. Here's my situation : I use a G55 right now. I managed to custom made fit it under my pedalboard with antennas hanging out. I got the G55 because I compared the system to the G50 and the G70. Both the 50 and 70 had less operating range than the 55 in the same building with the same conditions, etc. I play in different regions in the world (that's why I went with 2.4Ghz) mainly North America, Europe, Japan. The main act is somekind of circus performance, sometimes I need a good clean 100' of operating range for my performance. I'm often far from my pedalboard or suspended in the air. Other gigs are more standard but I still run in the crowd and around changing rooms away from my gear. Both the distance or bodies and walls contribute to a potential dropout I know that. The WiFi strength sometimes are through the roofs everywhere and the channels are almost all filled. But even if there is a lot of potential interference. When I perform under 15-20' range from the antennas, everything is 100% fine. My concern is if I add something like an BNC extension cable between the antenna and the G55 in troublesome venues and I temporarily tape the antenna as close as I can to my performance would it be a savior ? Just to reduce the distance and get away from other wifi stuff An extension like this : https://www.itfactory.ca/mmnox-ex03s-3-meter-antenna-extension-cable-black?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjOrtBRCcARIsAEq4rW6KmiEaao97SFHuFHkW0lyZHPL6Vm1fT4L-xmwLIVSyVHjYI5RcjacaAqmWEALw_wcB#fo_c=79&fo_k=c1421b29a422f7162abc66fe28cbd452&fo_s=gplaca Would it work ? I don't know the electrical voltages that goes in these antennas but adding a resistance (the cable) could affect the functionality ? Also, would I need to do this to both antennas ?
  14. I have a spider v 240hc. Looking at a Harley Benton 212 cabinet. Cab specs are 120w @ 8ohn mono and 60w @ 16ohm stereo. Can I safely plug in without damaging my amp? I am almost certain it ok but want to double check. Really don't want a 412 at this time. Also if it does hook up will or how much power/quality will I lose? side question. Is the wireless system ok with active pu?
  15. What goes wrong inside a G10S when it will work from a USB source but not the factory 9V supply... I checked the supply with a volt meter and it seems ok. Only had the unit a few months...
  16. Hey guys, I'm going to be playing live a bit in the near future, and I like to move around a good bit while playing. Naturally, a wireless system seems to make the most sense. What is the best wireless system for guitar -> Helix? My main guitar is a Jackson with passives, but I also have a guitar with actives, so that is probably worth a consideration (the guitar has a 1/4 inch out, not a Variax). What is the best wireless system for my needs? It looks like the Line 6 G10 is pretty decent, but I have read some not great reports about signal dropout inside the 75 foot range and some loss of the high-end frequencies. I am not a "huge" stickler for tone, but I really like a mean attack from the pick (play mostly hard rock/thrash) so losing attack is a big negative for me.
  17. Hi to whomever I am speaking with, I would REALLY appreciate any help on this... So I have used my Line 6 G75 Wireless Guitar System a few times over the last six months but then when I went to use it last month it lost signal between the transmitter and the receiver. I switched it off and on, auto scanned it and reset the scene for my bass which worked and then it played fine again for several times after that. But then this problem happened a few times until ultimately the system stopped recognising the transmitter saying 'NO Tx!' permanently. I gathered that it must be due a firmware update so I loaded version 1.05 to my RT516 unit and version 1.03 to my TB516 G which I believe are the most recent updates, still the same problem. I have gone through and tried auto scanning but it just comes up 'No Tx found', I have also tried manually setting the transmitter in accordance with the G75 manual to no avail. I have carried out a factory reset, loaded previous firmware's and shouted at it all to no avail. It is currently set back to versions 1.05 and 1.03 and as it was when I first opened it in regards to settings. I love the kit when its working but I need to have confidence in it, I am hoping someone here may have had something similar and can assist me?! Any help is hugely appreciated. Kind Regards, Ash
  18. Hey guys, I recently bought a G10 wireless. Now, i've used it live, worked perfectly and was actually very happy with it. But I got home and the damn thing will not work. The receiver is just flashing red (on the halo) about 1 flash a second, when I plug the transmitter in. The transmitter does not turn on, at all, I charged it for 4 hours, then tried it, nothing. I tried it overnight, then nothing... I'm at a loss i really am. Guitars tried: Ibanes RG8 Dingwall NG2 (this was what it worked with live) Fret King Corona Ibanez SR505 Ibanez S420 Legator Ghost 7 string with EMG 707s Any advice would be greatly welcomed right now! Thanks!
  19. Updating Your Handheld Microphone THH12 Updating Your Handheld Microphone THH06
  20. Hello all, A common problem with the Relay G70 unit that many Line 6'ers seem to be experiencing involves the belt clip and the fact that it snaps off so easily. As some have noted, when the clip snaps off it scuffs the transmitter. I'm looking to sell my unit but I'd like to paint the scratches the broken clip left before selling it off. I'm wondering how I should go about this. How does Line 6 paint their transmitters? What do they use? What might you used, or what have you done to remedy this problem? Thanks for your consideration, Luke
  21. Got this from GC: Line 6 Relay G75 Now: $299.99 Regular Price: $499.99 Save: $200.00
  22. Hey guys. I am using 7 xdv75 with headset mics in a musical. They're all great, but ONE of the packs has feedback...all the time. After full troubleshooting - I know that it is just the pack. Anyone ever have this issue? Love
  23. I have been testing the Kentli rechargeable batteries for use in our XD-v70 wireless microphones. We were throwing away batteries when they got down to 3 hours and it just seemed wasteful. I was wondering if anyone else has tried these batteries and what their results were. They are available from Amazon. These are Lithium-ion batteries that must have a voltage regulator in them to supply the normal 1.5 volts. I just recharge them when the microphone shows a drop in the amount of time left. Due to the voltage regulator, I believe that they would provide the full 1.5 volts until they are almost dead. Any thoughts?
  24. Just wondering if anyone has tried to use the headphone out connected to a bluetooth transmitter like this: Amazon.com: Bluetooth Tranismitter Then, simply pair it up to your Bluetooth headphones and you have a cheap on-stage/rehearsal in ear monitor for yourself? Would that work?!? **EDIT** I found a solution that works for me, see my detailed reply below
  25. Wanted to share pictures of my Helix Rack because I haven’t seen or been able to find pictures of people sharing their’s. SKB Roto Rack 6 space deep rack Shelf Shelf Shure ULXP wireless Helix Helix Helix On the back I have a patchbay with D Series connectors. I got the rack piece from Full Discount/FDW Corp. I wish I would have gotten a 2 space rack piece with the d series connectors vertical instead, but it’s alright. I’m also hoping to wire up a PowerCon port as well, but haven’t ordered one yet. Currently I have the Control, open, Left XLR, Right XLR, Left 1/4, Right 1/4, open, strap, Mic in, Aux in. I did all the soldering and such myself using scraps of wire and ends from deinstalled sound systems. The shelf on the top is a deep rack shelf that I got from work. We pulled it out of a rack that we were putting in a church. I put it in from the back as the back of the shelf (now the front) is slotted and then I had something to strap my control down to without cutting the shelf. The opposite piece of Velcro is looped around the rack piece for the d series connectors. The wireless was one that we pulled out of a church when they bought new wireless. Minuscule repair, I had a working wireless. Someday I’ll probably upgrade to a Shure ULXD, which I will purchase through work. We install those and they have been fantastic. It’s kind of heavy and bulky, but the rack has wheels and since it’s only ~14 inches tall, I can put it vertically into the back seat of a vehicle. It is lighter than most guitar amps and can be lifted with one hand, but I wish it was lighter. I now come to gigs with my rack rolling in one hand and a guitar case in the other. Then have to make a second trip for monitors (which I’m looking to upgrade to Bose S1’s because they are light and small compared to my Mackie SRM 450s). I will probably add an octave pedal in the rack on the shelf sometime, and maybe a drive as well, but for now this is what I’m using. If you have any questions, I’ll try to answer them!
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