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Found 16 results

  1. Hello all, I'm looking for help with my setup. I'm not sure if this is a wiring issue or perhaps a hx stomp block chain issue. I just bought a BOSS SY1 synth pedal. I want to isolate the GUITAR (dry) signal from the SYNTH signal. I think I have most of this figured out but there's some things that are baffling me. I'm using 4 things * Guitar * Boss SY1 * L6 HX Stomp v2.92 * FRFR Speaker How its hooked up (all of 4 cables) Guitar output > Boss SY1 input (I want this pedal in the front as it tracks better) Boss SY1 "SEND" > HX Stomp main input L - this is the 100% DRY signal (works regardless if the SY1 is on or off) Boss SY1 "OUTPUT" > HX Stomp Aux In L - this is the 100% SYNTH signal as set by the SY1 direct and effect volume settings HX Stomp block chain - Main Input L > Overdrive block > Amp & CAB block > RETURN L block (from SY1 OUTPUT jack) > Delay block > Reverb block > Main Output (to FRFR speaker) My thinking in this was I can have my normal guitar amp and cab sounds and then to insert the synth sound just before the delay and reverb blocks so everything can use those, using the RETURN blocks mix to adjust how much of dry/synth signal I want. Sometimes 50/50 dry/synth and then sometimes 100% synth. The issue I'm having is this setup works fine but the RETURN L will not use the delay and reverb blocks, despite it being in front of both of them. The amp and cab blocks which are before the RETURN L use the delay and reverb which is baffling me. I can not tell what I'm doing wrong here. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I feel I'm close but obviously missing something here... Much thanks in advance!
  2. I have a Flextone 212s speaker cabinet loaded with two 8ohm speakers. When plugged into the left jack and using my multimeter it is showing an 8ohm load and both speakers are working. How is this possible? To my knowledge wiring two 8ohm speakers can get you either 4 or 16ohms. What kind of sorcery is this???
  3. So, I recently got an Ibanez ARZ200FM in Grey Burst. Beautiful guitar and lovely to play but when my fingers accidentally touched either pickup, it would buzz. Hmmm... So I opened her up and sure enough, the pickups were wired in backwards. Since I was planning on replacing the neck pickup anyway - Love the way Ibanez guitars play but hate their neck pickups. Too muddy and no character. The bridge pickup was fine. Nothing special but I could work with it so I decided to live with it for a while before replacing it. It sounded like a typical bridge humbucker. So when the SD Antiquity Neck arrived I did that installation and corrected the wiring on the bridge pickup. Here's where the total surprise came in. The bridge now sounded bright, jangly, it lost some of its low end but not too much. It was now a very lively yet not ice picky bridge pickup. Sounds almost like a really FAT tele pickup. What I don't understand is how a mere change in its wiring polarity could so dramatically change the tone of this pickup. I changed and experimented with lots of pickups before and had reversed wires intentionally lots of times and have never had a tonal change such as this ever. How is this happenning? Anyone have any ideas?
  4. Hello from Germany! I just get my JTV-69 out of my bunch of various guitars and wonna have fun... As already mentioned in the title - when I turn off the electric way (playing with normal PUs) the tone poti has no effect, everything sounds "dull/dark" - no brightness. If I turn on the modelling the tone poti works fine. I really am not sure if this was the normal function when I recently used the Variax but... certainly I would heard it. Does anybody have an idea or even better a solution? I cannot imagine, that this little passive component can be broken because it works fine with different switch settings. Do I have a chance to fix it by myself when I open the guitar? Thanks so much and best regards, Wilfrid
  5. Dear all, I recently got my hands on a Flextone 212s cabinet. However just one of the two speakers was operational. I found out that the wiring for one of the speakers was loose when unscrewing the small back plate for the speaker cable inputs and looking through the opening. I managed to get my hand (I have fairly small hands) into the opening and plugged the wiring back on the speaker. The speaker is working fine now, still since the cables are just plugged into the speakers and not soldered, I am afraid that this could happen again. Therefore I would like to open the front of the cabinet to unbuild the speakers and solder the cable connection properly. How do I open the front however? I found no screws or any indication on where to open the front grill/cloth of the cabinet. I do not want to destroy the cabinet, so I am curious how to do this? Thanks for any advice! Cheers, Alex
  6. I want to fit a dummy coil to my JTV 59p. Love the sound of the pickups but want to get rid of 60hz and RF hum. Have read a lot about dummy coils and would like to mount one. The battery compartment is the perfect place as I only ever use a VDI cable to my board which negates the need for a battery.I have the dummy coil and it fits perfectly. My question is where do I solder the ghost coil terminals as the only info l have seen pertains to Strat wiring. The principle should be the same but as the pickups are terminated on to the mini PCB in the switch cavity it doesn't appear obvious to a novice like me. Any advice appreciated. P.S. Don't want to replace pickup with humbucker or modify pickups to rwrp as this only cancels hum in the mid position. Hopefully someone out there has thought about this mod too.
  7. I want to fit a dummy coil to my JTV 59p. Love the sound of the pickups but want to get rid of 60hz and RF hum. Have read a lot about dummy coils and would like to mount one. The battery compartment is the perfect place as I only ever use a VDI cable to my board which negates the need for a battery.I have the dummy coil and it fits perfectly. My question is where do I solder the ghost coil terminals as the only info l have seen pertains to Strat wiring. The principle should be the same but as the pickups are terminated on to the mini PCB in the switch cavity it doesn't appear obvious to a novice like me. Any advice appreciated. P.S. Don't want to replace pickup with humbucker or modify pickups to rwrp as this only cancels hum in the mid position. Hopefully someone out there has thought about this mod too.
  8. I've never bought or tried any line6 products but I'm looking for a new rack FX unit. If I used a POD HD Pro I would intend on having it connected via the 4CM to my amp head (traditional valve head and 4x12) and also to a PA system. I wondered if any of you could answer some questions for me. 1) Assuming that the guitar, microphone and line inputs being used at the same time, can you route the following simultaneously... Guitar signal with fx but without cab modelling to the unbalanced outputs (going to a valve amp and a 4x12) Guitar signal with fx / cab modelling, microphone and line inputs to the balanced outputs (going to a PA system) 2) It is my understanding that the POD HD Pro can also be used as a USB audio interface for DAW. Can it provide separate audio interface signals for guitar, microphone and line inputs at the same time (i.e. can i record a guitar track, a vocal track and a line input track on my DAW simultaneously using the POD HD Pro as my audio interface)? Cheers! Paul
  9. Can anyone tell me the expected multimeter readings from the wires to the two speakers? I just bought a Flextone II at a pawnshop for very little money due to a dramatic noise problem. You plug it in, push the power button and it goes POP! POPPOPPOPPOPWHIIINE very, very loudly. The volume knob setting doesn't matter. It can be all the way down to zero and it still happens. I took it home and took it apart. No bulging caps or anything else obvious. I reassembled it and tried it with different speaker wire combinations. Here's what I found. No speakers connected, listening through headphones = No problems. Everything works. Either speaker, either black wire and the red wire = that speaker works fine. Either speaker, either black wire and the white wire = that speaker works fine. Both speakers, each with a black wire and either the red or the white wire = Problem's back. Am I right in assuming it's likely some sort of short between two of the wires? Can anyone tell me what readings I should expect from a multimeter on the various wire combinations? I'd like to test things before I just start replacing wires. And of course, if anyone has any ideas about what else might be causing this, I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi I just bought a dpa 4066 used from Ebay. My plans are to use it with my V-30 transmitter. There are no adapters available for this purpose. As far as I can se the microdot Senneheiser mini jack adapter has no passive components attached, but simply shortcut the sleeve and ring, and sends signal to the tip. My question is: If I buy the Sennheiser adapter how can I connect this to the 6.3 mm Jack for the V-30/35 receiver?
  11. So while I had my 500 apart to fix some solder points, I modded it to have regular pickups as well. I routed out space for an HSS configuration, customized a strat pickguard and installed a balance/blend pot to go between the two. Took me a while but it works great.
  12. I've been scratching my head for some time now trying to work out how the pickup switching works in my JTV-89, mainly because, although I like the pickups, I wanted to have more options on the magnetic side. I wanted something like what I would want on a HSH strat. That is: two 4conductor humbuckers with duncan triple shots and a single coil sized humbucker in the middle. The switch, as it is, doesn't give any option to add another pickup, because all four (well, five) conductors are soldered on a small PCB that's attached to the selector and it's impossible to see inside the selector to find some way to add anything or change any of the pickup/coil settings, so... I went and opened it. Well, I didn't exactly open the one inside my guitar, but a spare I got from the spanish distributor. The switch was failing and I didn't want to send the JTV to tech service because they are sluggish, so I asked them for a replacement switch and they sent it, on the condition that the guitar would be serviced at the store where I bought it. In fact, they did send the wrong switch the first time, so I ended up with two, one that seems to belong to a JTV-69 and the one I needed. I've been a customer for a long time, so the people at the store agreed to let me change it myself, which I never did, because once I bought a hardcase for the guitar, the switch stopped failing so often (It almost never fails now and I've worked out a way to quickly get it back to normal). So I opened the selector and found out how it works. It works in the same way a superswitch would, only this one is preset. There are fixed contacts and mobile ones. The fixed ones are printed in a way that does the coil splitting in positions 2 and 4 and does, well... you know... what a JTV-89 does with its mags :-) The switch is some kind of 2P5T, where on one pole you select the magnetic pickup setting and on the other you select modeling pickup setting. On the modeling side, the contacts are arranged in a standard fashion. Bad news first: The modeling side of the switch has three resistors (18,65k, 75,1k and 37,2k are the exact values, though they most likely correspond to standard values of 18k, 75k and 36k) and I'm guessing the variax brain detects which position the selector is on based on the resistance measured between the two contacts that go out the PCB. Good news: The values of those resistors are standard and they are possible to replicate, so you can use a standard two pole five throw blade selector and add another pickup (or whatever you want to do with your five) Better news: The lower PCB can be desoldered from the selector and soldered to a different one, so you don't have to mess around with resistor values and provide some new small board to solder them onto. PICTURES: YES!! I know I should include pictures in this very post, and at this very moment, but my camera is out of battery and my phone isn't good enough, so you'll have to wait, but the pics will come. I won't actually modify the guitar until the triple shots and the duckbucker are here, then I will have a friend route the guitar for me and then I will do the electronics so, for now, the only pics I'll post are the ones of the selectors. In a month or two (when I can buy the stuff) I'll start doing the mods
  13. I use POD hd Pro and i'm about to buy some new gear so i will be running > line 6 shortboard 2 > hd pro > rocktron velocity 300 > cab forgive my dumbness but what kind of cables are best for this and where would they go i.e. instrument and speaker cables also if i was to add a power conditioner how would i hook that up and again what type of cable. and last but not least if you use the live method above is it still better to keep hd pro on studio setting? cheers guys
  14. hello everybody. could anybody help me with pod xt headphones' out? i'd need to know 3 or more between the following: the tension/voltage (V), the current (A), the impedance (Ohm), the gain (dB) and the power (W) which the headphone signal comes out. i have to improve the headphones audio quality so must decide if to buy a little amplifier (Behringer Micromon MA400) or build a simple passive custom impedance adapter. thanx.
  15. *NOTE: Any customization/modification performed will void the warranty if it results in damage to the guitar. JTV-59 JTV-69 JTV-89
  16. Deutsch Français Q: What are the common ohm ratings for guitar speaker cabinets? A: The common ohm ratings are 16, 8, and 4 ohms. It is important to look at the cabinet inputs to correctly match the rating for your setup to ensure the optimal output and performance of your amplifier. While some ohm mismatches are acceptable, other ohm mismatches can cause failure in your amplifier's power amp section. REMEMBER: Impedance is measured in (Ω) ohms. Impedance determines how much current will flow through a component. A very high impedance allows a small amount of current to flow (i.e. a 16 ohm speaker load draws less current than an 8 ohm amp is ready to supply, but it will work safely). A very low impedance allows a large amount of current to flow (i.e. a 4 ohm speaker load draws too much current from an 8 ohm amp, ultimately overheating the amp). Unacceptable Ohm Mismatches: When connecting any amplifier to an external cabinet it is important to keep in mind that the ohm load of your cabinet should not be lower in number than the ohm rating of your amplifier (which can cause the amplifier to fail). I.e. - If the amp output has an overall rating of 8 ohms DO NOT run with an external cab that has an overall rating of 4 ohms. Acceptable Ohm Mismatches: It is acceptable to run the overall ohm load output of an amplifier to a cabinet that is higher in number. I.e. If your amp output has an overall output rating of 8 ohms you can run into an external cabinet that has an overall rating of 16 ohms. Be aware that you will lose ~15-20 percent of perceived volume with solid state power amplifiers when running this type of ohm mismatch, but you will suffer no failures. Q: Can I run two cabinets with different ohm ratings? A: We do not recommend running cabinets with different ohm ratings, as it may create an ohm load that your amplifier will not recognize and can possibly damage the power amp output section. Q: How do I connect my Line 6 amplifier to the external speaker cabinet? A: Your manual should explain most situations you would run into. Feel free to contact us and ask questions re: specific setups not covered in the manual and we will add them to this document. For example: Q: Can I run my Line 6 amplifier without a speaker load (i.e. not connected to a speaker) A: All Line 6 amplifiers (with the exception of the Spider valve series) are safe to run without any speaker load connected. The DT series and Spider Valve series amps **must have a speaker load connected to avoid damage to the output transformer.** Spider II, III, IV Cabinet Wiring - The Spider II & III HD150s are set up with 8 ohm stereo outputs to match the Spider cabs. You will want to use two speaker cables to connect to both jacks of the cabinet. If you do not connect both speaker outputs to an 8 ohm load (or higher) you can suffer a power amp failure. - Spider II & III HD75s runs 4 ohms mono. You will want to use two speaker cables to run the 8 ohms stereo cabinet from the head to the cab (creating a 4 ohm load) If you only use one cable, you may only get two of the four speakers to function. - Please consult the labeling on the cabinet or use a multi-meter to measure the ohm rating to ensure you will not induce failure with an incorrect connection. Q: Is there a video tutorial where I can see different cabinet connection options? A: Line 6 Head and Cabinet Connections Q: I am running my Spider HD with a cabinet from a different manufacturer which has a different ohm configuration that what the Spider HD needs. What can I do? A: Please see the previous information on acceptable ohm mismatches. If the ohm mismatch is not acceptable you may need to have your cabinet modified to conform to the needs of the Spider HD series. Please have this modification performed at your nearest Line 6 Service Center. Q: What are the wattage outputs and ohm loads on the Line 6 amplifiers not already discussed? Vetta/Vetta II HD 300W:4/8/16 ohms HD147 300W:4/8/16 ohms Flextone II HD 200W 2X12:4/8/16 ohms Flextone HD 300W:4/8/16 ohm Duoverb HD 100W:4/8 ohm F.A.Q.: Boxenverbindungen und Ohm Welche sind die üblichen Impedanzen für Gitarren Lautsprecherboxen? Die üblichen Impedanzen sind 16, 8 und 4 Ω. Es ist wichtig, sich die Eingänge der Box genau anzusehen um die Impedanz optimal auf Ihr Setup anzupassen und so eine optimale Ausgangsleistung des Verstärkers zu erhalten. Während manche Ohm-Diskrepanzen akzeptabel sind, können wiederum andere zum Versagen der Endstufe führen. Impedanz wird in Ohm gemessen. Die Impedanz legt fest, wieviel Strom durch eine Komponente fließt. Eine sehr hohe Impedanz sorgt dafür, dass nur eine geringe Menge Strom fließt (z.B.: ein 16 Ω Lautsprecher braucht weniger Strom als ein 8 Verstärker leisten kann, funktioniert jedoch gefahrlos.). Eine sehr niederige Impedanz hingegen lässt eine große Menge Strom fließen (z.B.: ein 4 Ω Lautsprecher zieht zu viel Strom für einen 8 Ω Verstärker und führt zur Ãœberhitzung des Verstärkers.). Inakzeptable Ohm-Diskrepanzen: Wenn Sie einen Verstärker an eine externe Box anschließen ist es wichtig, dass die Impedanz der Box nicht tiefer ist als die des Verstärkers (was dazu führen kann, dass der Verstärker ausfällt.). Z.B.: Wenn die Ausgabe des Verstärkers eine Impedanz von 8 Ω hat, dürfen Sie AUF KEINEN FALL eine Lautsprecherbox benutzen, die nur 4 Ω Impedanz hat. Akzeptable Ohm-Diskrepanzen: Eine Ohm-Diskrepanz ist akzeptabel, wenn die Impedanz eines Verstärkers, den Sie an eine Box anschließen niedriger ist als die der Box. Z.B.: Wenn die Ausgabe des Verstärkers eine Impedanz von 8 Ω hat, können Sie eine externe Box benutzen, mit 16 Ω Impedanz. Aber Achtung, Sie werden ca. 15-20% Lautstärke mit einer Transistorendstufe verlieren wenn Sie diese Art Setup benutzen, aber es wird ohne Ausfall funktionieren. Kann ich zwei verschiedene Boxen benutzen, die verschiedene Impedanzen haben? Wir empfehlen die Nutzung von Boxen mit verschiedenen Impedanzen NICHT, da dies eine Impedanz erzeugen kann, die der Verstärker nicht erkennt und kann so auch die Endstufe beschädigen. Wie schließe ich meinen Line 6 Verstärker an eine externe Box an? In Ihrem Benutzerhandbuch sollte dies für die meisten Situationen ausführlch beschrieben sein. Bitte kontaktieren Sie uns und stellen Sie jegliche Fragen über Setups die nicht im Benutzerhandbuch aufgeführt sind und wir werden diese an dieses Dokument anhängen. Z.B.: Kann ich meinen Line 6 Verstärker ohne Box benutzen? Alle Line 6 Geräte können auch betrieben werden ohne, dass eine Box an diesen angeschlossen ist (mit Ausnahme der Spider Valve Serie). **ACHTUNG, die DT und Spider Valve Serien müssen eine Box angeschlossen haben um jeglichen Schaden zu vermeiden.** Verkabelung der Spider II, II, IV Boxen Die Spider II & III HD 150 Boxen haben 8 Ω Ausgänge um den Spider Boxen zu entsprechen. Sie brauchen 2 Lautsprecherkabel, um diese an beide Klickenbuchsen der Box anzuschließen. Sollten Sie nicht beide Lautsprecherausgänge an eine 8 Ω Impedanz anschließen, kann Ihre Endstufe versagen. Spider II & III HD 75 Boxen haben 4 Ω Mono Ausgänge. Sie brauchen 2 Lautsprecherkabel, um die 8 Ω Stereo Box zu benutzen (was einee 4 Ω Impedanz erzeugt). Sollten Sie hier nur ein Kabel benutzen funktionieren nur 2 der 4 Lautsprecher. Benutzen Sie bitte die Beschriftung auf der Box oder ein Multimeter um die Impedanz zu messen. So können Sie einen Ausfall aufgrund falscher Impedanz ausschließen. Gibt es ein Videotutorial über die verschiedenen Boxen Anschlüsse? Line 6 Head and Cabinet Connections (Englisch) Ich benutze mein Spider HD mit einer Box eines anderen Herstellers, welche eine unterschiedliche Impedanz hat als die, die mein Spider HD braucht. Was kann ich tun? Bitte schauen Sie sich dazu die vorherigen Informationen über akzeptable und inakzeptable Ohm-Diskrepazen an, wenn diese inakzeptabel ist kann es sein, dass Sie Ihre Box modifizieren müssen, damit Sie dem Spider HD entspricht. Bitte lassen Sie diese Modifikation im nächstgelegenen Line 6 Service Center durchführen. Welche ist die Wattleistung und Impedanz anderer, noch nicht beschriebener, Line 6 Verstärker? Vetta/Vetta II HD 300W; 4/8/16 Ω HD147 300W; 4/8/16 Ω Flextone II HD 200W 2X12; 4/8/16 Ω Flextone HD 300W; 4/8/16 Ω Duoverb HD 100W; 4/8 Ω F.A.Q.: Haut-parleur et ohm: Quels sont les impédances communes pour les baffles guitare? Les impédances communes sont 16, 8 et 4 Ω. C'est important de vérifier l'impédance de l'entrée du baffle guitare pour égaler cette impédance à votre système afin de recevoir une sortie et performance optimale de l'ampli. Pendant que quelques discordances sont acceptables, autres peuvent causer un échec dans la section ampli de puissance. L'impédance est mesurée en ohms Ω. L'impédance mesure la circulation du courant dans un composant. Une impédance très haute permet à une petite quantité de courant de circuler. (Par exemple, un haut-parleur de 16 Ω consommé moins de courant qu'un 8 Ω ampli peut fournir. Mais ce setup fonctionne en toute sécurité.) Une impédance très basse permet à une grande quantité de courant de circuler. (Par exemple, un haut-parleur de 4 Ω consommé trop de courant pour un ampli de 8 Ω. Ce setup surchauffe l'ampli.) Discordances ohms inacceptables: Si vous connectez un amplificateur à un haut-parleur externe, c'est important de savoir que l'impédance du haut-parleur ne peut pas être plus basse que l'impédance de l'amplificateur. (Échec de l'ampli) Par exemple, si l'amplificateur a une impédance de sortie de 8 Ω, vous ne pouvez pas utiliser un haut-parleur externe de 4 Ω. Discordances ohms acceptables: C'est acceptable d'avoir un haut-parleur avec une impédance d'entrée plus haut que la sortie de l'amplificateur. Par exemple: Si la sortie de l'ampli a une impédance de 8 Ω, vous pouvez utiliser un haut-parleur avec une impédance de 16 Ω. Attention, vous perdez 15-20% de volume avec un amplificateur de puissance à semi-conducteur si vous exécutez cette configuration mais vous ne souffrez aucun échec. Est-ce que je peux utiliser deux haut-parleurs avec des impédances différents? Nous ne recommandons pas l'utilisation de deux haut-parleurs avec des impédances différents. Ce peut causer une impédance, l'ampli ne sait pas reconnaitre et peut endommager la sortie de l'ampli de puissance. Comment est-ce que je peux connecter mon ampli Line 6 à l'haut-parleur externe? Le manuel d'utilisation devrait expliquer la plupart des situations. N'hésitez pas à nous contacter et poser des questions sur les configurations spécifiques et nous les ajoutons à ce document. Par exemple: Est-ce que je peux utiliser mon ampli Line 6 sans impédance? Tous les amplis Line 6 (série Spider Valce exceptée) peuvent-être utilisés sans impédance haut-parleur connecté. ** Les séries DT et Spider Valve doivent avoir connecté une impédance haut-parleur pour éviter les dommages au transformateur de sortie. ** Spider II, III et IV: câblage du haut-parleur Les Spider II et II HD150s sont configurés avec des sorites 8 Ω stéréo pour correspondre aux haut-parleurs Spider. Vous avez besoin de deux câbles haut-parleurs pour connecter les deux jacks du haut-parleur. Si vous ne connectez pas les deux sorties à une impédance de 8 Ω, vous pouvez souffrir d'une insuffisance ampli de puissance. Spider II et III HD75s sont configurés avec des sorties 4 Ω mono. Vous avez besoin de deux câbles haut-parleurs pour utiliser l'haut-parleur 8 Ω stéréo. (créant une impédance 4 Ω) Si vous utilisez un seul câble, seulement deux des quatre haut-parleurs fonctionnent. Utilisez l'étiquetage sur l'haut-parleur ou un multimètre pour mesurer l'impédance pour vous assurer que vous ne provoquez aucun échec avec une connexion incorrecte. Est-ce qu'il y en a un vidéo tutoriel concernant les options de connexion du haut-parleur? Line 6 Head and Cabinet Connections (anglais) J'utilise le Spider HD avec un haut-parleur d'un fabricant différent, ce haut-parleur a une configuration d'impédance différente que mon Spider HD a besoin. Qu'est-ce que je peux faire? Veuillez consulter les informations précédentes sur les discordances ohms acceptables. Si la discordance ohm est inacceptable, c'est possible que vous avez besoin de modifier l'haut-parleur afin de le conformer au Spider HD. Veuillez faire effectuer cette modification au centre de service Line 6 le plus proche. Quels sont les puissances en watts des sorties des amplis Line 6 pas encore discuté? Vetta/Vetta II HD 300W; 4/8/16 Ω HD147 300W; 4/8/16 Ω Flextone II HD 200W; 2x12: 4/8/16 Ω Flextone HD 300W; 4/8/16 Ω Duoverb HD 100W; 4/8 Ω
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