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Found 14 results

  1. Just wondering if any JTV59 owner has actually replaced their entire bridge assembly with an alternative - and if so which one and how did they do it and did the replacement perform better than the original? Pictures too would be great. Thanks.
  2. The longer and deeper I get in, trying to do the perfect setup for my JTV-59 the harder I feel that the bridge is not placed well by the factory or specs. If I try to setup the intonation well, I have to place the string-adjustment-sliders on the bridge (don't no the proper term for ist in English) back, at the very end, both on low E and A. There is no way to screw them more backwards so I am very glad, that this is the point, where intonation is okay but not perfect. I am in contact with some other players of the JTV59 and they can confirm my guesses. Besides there are some images of the 59er bridge in the web, witch indicates the same problem. Of cause there are other images where the adjustment-sliders are shown the right way but I am pretty sure not everyone is even testing the intonation. But here is also an older thread on this topic without any statement of L6 String gauges I tried... 9-46 10-46 10-52 I even tried to proof the intonation using a capo and measuring the 13. fret. Also the tiny screws at the bridge are adjusted as long as possible, without loosing the possibility to adjust the height of the bridge by covering this screws. I would like to ask psarkissian if this is a known "issue" (you don't have to call it an issue as I am sure you are not allowed) so I can stop my search for the holy grail of intonation. Otherwise I like to ask for further advices getting the bridge adjusted the right way.
  3. Q: What is 'radius' on a neck? A: Radius refers to the amount of curve on the fretboard. A smaller number (i.e. 9.5") has a more pronounced curve than a larger number (i.e. 12"). Players who emphasize chording may prefer more round necks, while players who do a lot of bending may prefer flatter necks. Q: What is the nut width on the Variax electric guitars? Variax 300: 1 11/16" Variax 500: 1 5/8" Variax 600: 1 5/8" Q: What is the difference between maple (i.e. Variax 600) and rosewood (i.e. Variax 300) fretboards? A: Maple tends to be a bit brighter in tone, while rosewood tends to have a bit more sustain. Maple fretboards have some type of lacquer finish, as rosewood is traditionally unfinished. Q: What is "neck scale"? A: Neck scale is the distance from the bridge to the nut. All Variax electric guitars have a scale of 25.5" Q: What fretwire is used on the Variax Electric guitars? A: The closest fretwire in common use is the Dunlop 6130 wire, but it is not exactly the same wire. Q: What size allen wrenches are used on the Variax electric guitars? Tremolo arm and saddle height adjustment: 1.5mm Bridge height: 2.5 mm Truss Rod: 4mm Q: What kind of finish is used on the Variax? A: All Variax instruments use a polyester (yes, polyester) finish. Q: What type of glue is used in the hardware? A: Hide (i.e. horse) glue Q: What gauge D'Addario strings are on the Variax electric guitars? E: 10 (High) B: 13 G: 17 D: 26 A: 36 E: 46 (low) Variax Bass 700/705 B .130 (five-string model only) E .100 A .080 D .065 G .045 Q: What is the hole diameter for the tuning gears? A: The Variax guitars accept the standard 10mm (13/32nd") tuning gear. Q: What happens if I use different brand or gauge strings on my Variax bass or guitar? A: The results will be the same as changing string type or gauge on an analog bass or guitar. The Variax guitars are no different than most other guitars regarding setup and maintenance; the may need to be set up for different gauges play correctly, or seasonally to counteract climate changes. The Variax will accept any common string gauge for that instrument type. Q: Do the Variax guitars have a low or high output impedance? A: All Variax guitars are low impedance, and should be treated like they are active instruments. Q: What are the default custom positions? Contents of Custom 1 Knob Positions: Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Original Model Location Custom 1/1 Acoustic/5 Custom 1/2 Reso/4 Custom 1/3 Acoustic/4 Custom 1/4 Reso/2 Custom 1/5 Reso/1 Custom 2 Positions feature hybrid models and alternate tunings created from Variax Workbench,Knob Position / Pickup Selector Position & Custom Tuning Custom 2/1 Spank with R-BillyTron Bridge Drop D Custom 2/2 R-Billy Sparkletop with R-billy D'almond Bridge & Middle Open A Custom 2/3 T-Modle F-Hole with Lester/Bridge Open D Custom 2/4 Special Bird with Chime Toaster/Middle Open C Custom 2/5 Tricone Reso Open G
  4. The pickup height on the bridge pickup is so high, and the hex wrench is too long. So how are we to set intonation on the guitar without removing the humbucker??? Also, this is yet another bad example of Sweetwater's so-called "55 point inspection" process.
  5. Hi All, I've a nice black JTV69, I bought it in 2011. Since then I use it almost every day. However I noticed that after some tremolo usage the guitar goes out of tune all the time. During the last string change I checked the tremolo bridge and I noticed that the knife edges seems to be really used. I took some pictures, please check them: The problem is that, I really don't know what should I do now, because this type of bridge is very special and I cannot buy a new one in the local music stores. I found one on fullcompass but its quite expensive and I really don't need new saddles and tremolo block etc. Only the bridge plate with the kinfe edges. Have you got any idea how should I repair it? Have you got any experience about bad/used kinfe edges on JTV69 guitars? Thank you in advance! Norbert
  6. I have a 2014 JTV 89, purchased last year. After playing (and maintaining) the instrument for 9+months - I have noticed a spot on the gray nickel oxide patina on the bridge has worn to a ni-chrome shine. I'm not really worried about this - the spot is where I anchor the heal of my hand, so the wear is natural (I assume). Its behind the 5 and 6 string piezo pickups. any advice on restoring the natural surface patina (slight gray)? Cant scrub away what is already scrubbed.... Thanks.
  7. My variax standard came with the Strat type bridge flat against the body. Is it ok to set it up for floating, as I'm using Floyd Rose on my other guitars, with my playing style I use a lot of pull ups on my trem?
  8. Hi. Does anyone know if you can purchase a replacement for the JTV-59 bridge post? Or if maby a generic part will fit? My hex hole is has stripped on one of the two. I have to loosen my string tension and use my fingers to adjust my bridge height. Perhaps something like this? Thank you
  9. Hi. On my Variax 600 the tone of the G-String temporary fades away to 10% and crackles. If I hit the bridge with my palm several times and/or let the string slap hard everything can be fixed and the tone reanimates. I know there are problems described with sweat and dirt, polluting the piezo. Also there are issues with grounding or loose cable-connections. Can somebody please give me a hint or provide some links so I can figure out some solutions?
  10. I've only had two Variax guitars to work with, but so far I've run into the same situation with both, and wondered if anyone else had encountered it. The nut is too close to the 1st fret, and the bridge is too close to the 12th fret. Now, I'm setting these up with light gauge strings (starting with a .008), and I'm setting the action at about 3/32 for the low string, and 2/32 for the high end (at the 12th fret). The height of the string over the first fret is okay (though that was kinda sporadic), and I can get strings 1 to 4 to intonate, but the saddles string 5 and 6 both bottom out, and that's with the set screws for the bridge posts at full extension. So about the nut...even on properly intuned strings, the pitch of the fretted first fret is sharp (and I'm being very careful to only just lightly fret them when checking, so as to not stretch the string over the fret). What I've done to rectify the issue is that I've carefully filed the nut on the neck side with a combination of flat filing, and filing with a slight angle, so as to bring the contact back as much as 1/16" or abouts (I also filed the top down quite a bit, as the strings were set pretty deeply into the nut, and there was a lot of extra nut above them)...and for the bridge, rather than pulling the posts, and plugging and resetting them, I have temporarily used some longer set screws and pushed the posts out to just short of losing their widest contact. It works, and it sounds much better now. So has anyone else encountered this? Maybe Line 6 needs to check their jigs? Ken
  11. Writing here to vent a bit. I purchased a new JTV-69 in November 2013 from American Musical Supply. The guitar has had issues from the beginning: first, the instrument select control knob would not easily engage. When I asked Customer Support about it that indicated that they were aware that sometimes the knob is seated too deeply and for me to place a spacer under the knob to allow additional clearance. The biggest issue remains with the saddle. I have had two different luthiers attempt to set-up this guitar (factory set-up was rough), both luthiers indicated there was a serious issue with the saddle. I drove the two hours to an Authorized Warranty Repair Center (Wizard Electronics) in Atlanta and dropped off the guitar about 6-weeks ago. According to Wizard, Line 6 is not authorizing a replacement saddle and instructed Wizard to contact "the guitar guy" at Line 6 to asset them in "tweaking" the problem. They have been waiting for this bozo to contact them - and have tried repeatedly (with me on a conference call with them) with no success. I basically have a $1200.00 brick that I cannot gig with, record with, or use for anything but firewood. I gig over 100 times a year and come in contact with a ton of musicians who have asked about the JTV-69. Up until this point I have held my tongue about the Customer Service issues - no longer. I am going to make it my mission in life to let them know to buy ANYTHING other than this guitar. The technology is great, how they take care of the customer is not. Scott
  12. Hi! Did anyone else ever get problems with stings breaking on the saddles of a JTV 59? Mine use to, what is really annoying. I already tried pulling an old bass string over the saddles to get rid of burrs. Is it normal that the strings dig a visible sluice into the saddles? Would you dare to carefully grind on the saddles with the piezos underneath? Thank you and best regards
  13. Hi guys, I'm a little confused about the bridge color of the JTV. I found several pictures with 'chrome' or 'black' bridges, but I can't find the difference in the models. Even on the model description page there are different colors: I prefer the black bridge. If it's a model update, that would be perfect :-) Thank you for your help.
  14. Being new to Floyd Rose-style string locking systems and lacking any documentation about such from Line 6, i found this Graph Tech link useful:‎ It covers changing strings, tuning and intonation. Happy Allen wrenching :)
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