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Good morning, I hope you are well. I wanted to comment on what happened to my UX2, it was working and the lights went out and it stopped working. There was no surge, nothing abnormal happened. Any ideas? It's not detected by the operating system. Is there a way to revive it via USB or something similar or it definitely died. If the same thing happened to anyone, it would be helpful. Thank you very much.

The solution to all helix tone issues or any issues really is to get an Ampegg Bass amp. FRFR speakers and tube amps are inferior to this method. Simply go direct to ampegg bass amp with ultra hi and ultra low button options or try some other bass amps and prepare for the wow factor. Only use one impulse response or one cab sim when doing this and you will be blown away. I use this for guitar and had been struggling to get a tone I completely happy with that felt full, ect. Now I can officially say my tone quest is over and amp modeling has finally surpassed tube amps in my opinion. Plus bass amps are lighter, cleaner and tighter sounding with a well rounded sound and a lot of thump. It's amazing that no one else on the internet has figured this out yet. I tried everything too, multiple IR's tube amps, 4cm, 200 presets lol nothing satisfied but the bass amp I got really brought my helix to the next level. I compared to my friends Krank 4x12 tube amp and I blew him out of the water. Plus I have a bunch of IR's I like so I can switch to emulate any speaker cabinent now with superior sound quality. No more messing with tubes and multiple cords, no more noise either. 100% consistency in the tone I have been searching for. I now use a strandberg boden 8 direct into the helix direct into the bass amp. I hit the pad button on my ampegg because I have active pickups and it really is everything now. I feel like I'm playing through a 5000$ system now. I am so glad I didn't spend 1000$+ on a FRFR speaker for Stack. If you don't believe me or are in disagreement, I highly urge you to go to guitar center and try some bass amps that have aux in for playback options (meaning that odds are it has a large frequency range) I can officially say now digital modeling has surpassed the need for bulky tube amps, ect. This is the one thing that truly worked. Make sure the bass amp has a dynamic EQ section so you can fine tune your presets (which you won't have to do much to accomplish that). I don't use any distortion blocks in my chain cause the amps sims I use like the texas II or the Badonk have really high gain. I set my noise gate at around -55db or-65db so it doesn't eat at the tone of the guitar.

Hello friends! I read through the photo and I suppose I mentioned the subject several times, but I could not find a definitive solution, but only alternatives, for the bad volume increase when we use the chorus and modulations of m9. For me and the other people is a very annoying subject because with the simple fact of activating the chorus (I use the analogue chorus) the volume increases. If I decide to lower the mix to 0, the volume increase remains. The alternative that I have thought is to create that effect bank with the slightly less volume, for which I have to use the pedal volume. This solution seems the most reasonable but not the simplest. I would appreciate if you could give me another alternative solution or the people of Line 6 who can give an official answer on this problem and can give us an update that I think would be the only alternative. I am waiting for your answers and help Thank you very much! regards!

Hallo, I hope I can help you with this informations for using the Helix with the Bogner ATMA. You just have to connect the ATMA to the Helix with a 6,3 mm Stereo Jack: NO SIGNAL = ATMA KANAL 2 (CRUNCH) 2 (RING) = ATMA KANAL 3 (LEAD) 1 (TIP) = ATMA KANAL 1 (CLEAN) Ulrich

Hi, I have had my UX2 for about 2 weeks now, I am having an issue were It will just freeze (Including the dials). My microphone that is plugged into the UX2 stops working and I can hear nothing from my headphones (Except a buzzing sound every 1-2 secs) that are are plugged into the UX2. The way I am currently fixing this problem is by unplugging and re-plugging in my UX2 and relaunching pod farm and after a minute it is fixed, well for a little bit. This issue happens to me about 5 or so times a day and is very annoying. Could you please comment any questions you have that may help you solve this issue. Thanks, Michael

Ok, I'm here just to share my experience with my jtv 59, I thought it could help the community as it adresses common problems (ping, volume drops in certain strings etc.) I'm not a native speaker, I hope this is understandable to all ;) First of all, by doing this I voided my warranty, think about it before doing anything. I read about this mods on this forum, so the credit isn't mine. I hope this post does not break any forum's rule, in that case let me know and I'll erase/modify it. Volume inconsistency between strings: Probably you already know the cause for this, the negative connection from the piezo is provided by contact on the bridge, but sweat from the hands will form oxide that raise resistance to ground, lowering that saddle volume. The lower E string is more prone to this. Two solutions for this: a. going for a graphtech ghost bridge, but it's not cheap at all, and the variax it's not designed for it, so i went for option b.: give the saddles a proper grounding. I'll explain step by step what I did: 1. disconnected bridge connector https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!390&authkey=!APLs3dI-ytbcNAU&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg 2. raised the bridge by using an hex key. As you can see from this pic: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!391&authkey=!AGV4Ggk2-NnMGhE&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg the pcb under the bridge already has soldering pads for each saddle ground, the lr baggs saddle does not provide a second wire for ground, we'll get there. I removed the hot glue globs with an exacto knife, they come off pretty easely, and I desoldered the + wires from their pads. Now the saddles are free, just remove the screws and the pcb will be gone. 3. At this point you'll have something like this: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!382&authkey=!AMlTDXNemHaZ2-A&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg notice the holes for the wires in the bridge, I had to use tiny ones I salvaged from an usb cable. I put some masking tape on the guitar to avoid scratches. 4. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!384&authkey=!AGviVZ1R68CkB1s&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg this is the saddle kept by a needle nose plier, with a rubber band to keep it close, I didn't have a vise at hand :D This provides heat sink, piezos don't like high temperatures, so be quick while soldering. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!381&authkey=!ANLdF7VbuPA6yQI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg see that pad? the wire goes there. remove enough epoxy to have a clean solder, i used an exacto knife. 5. pre-tin the pad and the wire: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!392&authkey=!AEP5OkV6mnkZybc&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg and solder quick and fearless with a small soldering iron: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!383&authkey=!AGvyap6hMU05XCk&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg 6. After repeating point 5. for six times put the saddle back in place, and solder every wire to each pad on the pcb: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!389&authkey=!ADJExiPhxu9o7rg&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg focus on avoiding solder bridges (as you can see on the D string, I cut that after shooting the photo) and on having shiny solder. Apply some hot glue back to keep the wires in place. 7. remove masking tape, put the bridge in its place and reconnect the wires to the big pcb on the rear. Pinging noise: I found that this noise is in reality the pick scraping on the string, witch is common with piezo bridges, when you palm mute, you're dampening the fundamental, and the noise seems louder. line 6 did a great job in removing this noise in the overall signal, but for unknow reasons sometimes on certain guitars the magic stop working. unfortunately there's nothing you can do about it, so i went to the root of the problem: strings windings I restrung my guitar with D'addario Half Rounds 10-52 that are between full rounds and flatwounds, and reduced pinging noise to a point that i don't care anymore. If you find this too dull sounding for you, mess with volume pot values on workbench to dial back in the lost brightness, I didn't find this necessary anyway. Crosstalk / warbling sound I dampen the strings after the nut and after the saddles on every guitar I own, I hate the ringing sound when playing in staccato. On the jtv this can also improve stability on alternative tunings. pretty easy to do, a piece of heatshrink tubing on the bridge to avoid rattling noise: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!388&authkey=!AAZJdOig1VBLWj0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg and a piece of foam between the strings and the headstock: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BBA44F05F3B256B0!387&authkey=!ADWIOE4g37H-xtM&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg Peace!

Hello everyone! I have this problem: I want to use the effects of my POD HD 500 and the distortion of my Fender Roc Pro 100 Head (with 1/4 footswitch). Whats the best solution to trigger and change the channels (clean, drive, boost, reverb) of my Fender amp through my POD and also activate POD FX? I saw some options, like MIDI RESOLUTION RELAY CONTROLLER or AMP GIZMO. Which is the best option? Someone has experience with this? How do you set up to configure POD + MIDI + AMP HEAD? Thanks a lot! Emi