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dt50 212 stop working


TiagoRamos
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Hi there. I was in a rehersal today and everything seems to be Just fine. Until i put my guitar back to put the amp at standby and noticed that the red light of my line 6 dt50 212 was off. I try to connect againg but nothing happens. It looks dead. I try another cable to power him, but nothing...

 

Need some help here... please.

 

What went wrong?

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Hi there. I was in a rehersal today and everything seems to be Just fine. Until i put my guitar back to put the amp at standby and noticed that the red light of my line 6 dt50 212 was off. I try to connect againg but nothing happens. It looks dead. I try another cable to power him, but nothing...

 

Need some help here... please.

 

What went wrong?

 

The amp may have blown a fuse and may need power tubes. Is your amp new? I would do a support ticket with Line 6.

Edited by Brazzy
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No. No warranty... and my knowlege of this things is zero...

 

I hear ya and your not alone. This amp is complicated inside. I just send it to Line 6 when work is needed.

 

You should do a support ticket anyway. I would call Line 6 about your amp and see if it's one of those that may still be under warranty. Get the serial number of the amp and call them with it. Ask them if it may still be under warranty. Some of these amps had obvious issues and the serial number will help them help you.

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A couple of simple things you can check...There is a fuse in the IEC power jack. This is the jack where the power cable connects...The fuse is in a little black plastic rectangle box that comes out of the connector itself...If this fuse is blown, probably a good idea to follow Brazzy's recommendation and open a ticket....The power fuse on the back is the only thing I can think out that would cause it not to power up at all....And that "could" be a good clue on getting the serial number checked I think.

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Valves/tubes and/or fuses are not that expensive (if that's the only thing broke).

Fuse can also go when valve breaks to protect the amp.

You did just mention the red light. Are any tubes lighting up by chance.

Given that you have the amp 2+ years there is a good chance that you just need new tubes.

Mine went after 1.5 years and the failure was just as you described ... working, StandBy on, a cuouple minutes later, StandBy off, ... quiet :-(.

My broken tubes were glowing, fuses where fine, but no sound.

Check tube glow first. If any light you may just need new tubes.

Good luck!

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The amp have more than 2 years. I think the wsrranty already expired.

 

Replacing fuse is very expensive? The valves should be replaced? The main power source could be broken?

 

Fuses are cheap...But they generally blow because of a failure the prevent damage...It's really hard to say what the problem might be without actually seeing the situation...Because you amp is not powering up at all, I am not sure that it's a tube issue...You could have failed tubes, but that's usually the tube protection fuse and not the main power fuse...But tubes can fail in a lot of ways...The tube protection fuse is marked on the back of the amp...checking that would yield more information...Blown power tubes sometimes have a white fog on the glass...but not always... 

 

The normal warranty "might" not matter. I urge you to contact Line 6 and open a ticket so that they know your serial number. At that point, you will know what your options are...

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  • 1 year later...

Had a similar thing happen to my DT50 last week. Was using my HD500X with it and after a few hours of playing, the power went dead on the amp. The power cord receptacle fuse had blown. It had a 5A fuse in it but I saw it could take a 10A max so I went out looking for fuses figuring with the length of use, the tubes got hot enough to draw more than 5 amps. Only could find 6.3A/250V fuses so I tried one. It blew immediately when turning the amp on. Made a service ticket with Line 6 to try to get some answers. Waiting for them to get back to me. The Guitar Center Pro Coverage I got when buying this used amp doesn't kick in for another couple months. Using my Flextone III in the meantime.

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  • 1 month later...

Replacing a fuse with a higher rated one is a very bad idea, by all means replace it with a fuse of the same rating but if it blows again the amp needs to go to somebody that knows what they're doing.

 

I'm glad you got it working again but a blown transformer and an incorrect fuse could have easily resulted in a fire.

 

Craig 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am an electrician and I understand fuses. The fuse holder was labeled "10A max". That's why I was under the impression that the 5A fuse was undersized and possibly the cause of my problem. The 8A fuse was fine to use but when it blew immediately, I knew there was more to the problem.

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On the subject of fuses ....

 

in 2015 my DT25 went out. Turned out to be the line fuse (whew). In the process I decided to buy spare fuses. The tube protection fuse inside was tough to find. Here is my thread below of the fuse deal ... fyi ...

 

Having gone through all this ..... and From My thread below ....

 

http://line6.com/sup...dt25-head-dead/

 

The tube protection fuse is the tough one to find ... the line fuse is pretty much available at any guitar shop.

 

 

The actual Tube Protection fuse I have in my DT25 (375mA/250V Slo Blo) is a LittelFuse 0313.375 

Mouser Part # 576-0313.375MXP

Manufacturer: LittelFuse

Manufacturer Part Number: 0313.375MXP

 

http://ca.mouser.com...4H0c833ETykqA==

 

The Bussmann MDL 3/8 is an equivalent.

Mouser Part Number: 504-MDL-3/8

Manufacturer: Eaton

Manufacturer Part Number: BK/MDL-3/8

 

http://ca.mouser.com...Tq0cGO5NIGsxA==

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Current and time lag specs have to be considered. Whatever the Littelfuse number is,

use that exact same number. Or whatever the other company's equal is, but preferably

the Littelfuse number,... especially with a hybrid (analog/digital) valve amp like this.

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Got my DT50 repaired. The main power transformer is what died. Back up and running again now.

Same transformer issue with mine.

I asked Line6 for help, but they did not feel any need to support a customer with a amp from 2012 (thats when i bought this nice guy).

So 270 bugs for repair... I just told them, how satisfied i am with their service, as the transformer is obviously the component, that goes bad in a lot of dt50.

I guess my next amp will come from another company.

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CraigGT, the manufacturer stamps information such as max fuse ratings for a reason. That's what nameplates on all electrical products are for. They give you the electrical specs for that equipment. The fuse that was in my amplifier was well under that maximum nameplate rating. I've been an electrician for almost 30 years and I can tell you with certainty that it's fine to use a fuse up to, but not exceeding, the fuse rating on the equipment you're using.

 

Upon researching and seeing how this transformer failure was a commonnly known problem, and even had a service bulletin put out on these transformers, I opened a ticket with line 6 to see if my amplifier was, indeed, one that was under said bulletin and if I was due a reimbursement of the money I had spent out of pocket to replace it. I was asked to provide the serial number and date of manufacture and was later told that it was not under that bulletin. I didn't think they'd own up to this being a defective part and reimburse my expense, but I figured I give it a shot. I am disappointed that they didn't attempt to make my issue right but I also understand that it was well past the warranty and they really didn't have to. I love Line 6 products and still have a Flextone III, Spider III, and an AMPLIFi but like anything else, it's always about the money.

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"Upon researching and seeing how this transformer failure was a commonly known problem, and even had a service bulletin put out on these transformers"---

It was actually for a fuse not a transformer. A transformer could be affected,... but not always.

 

"I opened a ticket with line 6 to see if my amplifier was, indeed, one that was under said bulletin"---

The amp presently on your list is not within the serial number range of any service bulletin. A worn tube can pull down a supply rail and

damage a transformer, especially if a tube is oscillating on its own or drawing too much current on its plate aka- "red plating". There are

a number of ways to kill a transformer.

 

Best thing is to have it checked out by a Line 6 authorized tech who knows the insides of these products.

Don't try to fix these yourself, these are vacuum tube amps with high voltage lines, and should only be worked

on by techs who know the product. It really hurts when you get zapped by a high volt rail on one of these.

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My DT25 says T2.0 AL for 110-120V or T1.0 AL for 220-240V

I seriously doubt that the DT50 requires a 10A fuse.

Fuse carriers themselves often have ratings on them but that is their maximum rating not that required by the device it is protecting.

 

Maybe I've misunderstood something

 

Craig

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"I seriously doubt that the DT50 requires a 10A fuse"---

What it says on the inside is what's required. But more than that, it's not just the amperage,

there are other specs to be considered, so specific Littel Fuse numbers are specified and required.

Stick to the specified parts.

 

These are not the same kinds of all analog valve (tube) amps of old, and so are not as forgiving.

 

I work on these, I write the service bulletins, I'm here to help you to keep your gear from ending

up on my repair bench. And to keep you rockin'.

 

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Thank you. Good eye.

Always a good idea to not go past the rated value specified.

 

The outer fuses are rather straight forward, it's the inner fuses that get people in trouble

when they try to do it themselves and use a substitute.

 

I see too many come across my bench for the wrong reasons.

 

Keep a sharp eye. Good job.

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Just to clarify:

The DT50 fuse rating for the power fuse is 10A. SLO-blow type

 

Secondly, I did have it repaired at a Line6 authorized service dealer and they mentioned nothing about the cause of the transformer failure, which I believe they should've checked for before just installing a $180 part and giving it back to the customer. That led me to believe it was just a case of a transformer dying out, which I see at my job all the time with 5KV airfield lighting. From what I have read on this forum in several threads, was that this was a common failure that had a service bulletin written up on it, and had several defective transformers replaced under it. That may not be the case, but I just posted what I have read on the subject

 

As I said, it's fixed, and I didn't expect Line 6 to cover the expense either way. The very least they could've done was give me an explanation of the bulletin I questioned, and given me specific reasons why mine did not fall under it (btw they never mentioned the bulletin to be about the fuse only). A possible reason of failure, as was given above, would also have satisfied my inquiry about what may have caused this problem so I could do some preventive checks and maintenance to ensure I don't have the same problem in the future. Had they told me a bad tube could cause this (which I asked about when I dropped it off) they would've gotten the extra money for replacing all of them for me while they had it in their shop being these tubes are hard to get if you're not a service dealer...

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"From what I have read on this forum in several threads, was that this was a common failure that had a

service bulletin written up on it, and had several defective transformers replaced under it"---

 

I can see how that would be the perception. To clarify,...  service bulletin had nothing to do with the transformer,

beyond being that other components could sometimes be collateral damage as a result. Transformer failure was

not the cause, it was something else, and on occasion it took the transformer down with it.

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