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Mgregory623

Line 6 firehawk 1500

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Ok, ok... This is craziness! Let me get this right. You buy a $1500 floor processor to help get rid of your excess load to a gig then you want to add the fh1500 63lbs of mass. Why in the heck don't you just bring a real tube amp then. Also this is one of the many reasons I dumped my helix. it was costing to much to find what you think you need to make your helix sound good. Or am I missing something here? Or maybe 99.9% of everyone on this forum just plays at home and can have there helix tied to there l2t to there Firehawk 1500 to then whatever, because they don't schlep gear. And spend, spend, spend for trying to justify making there helix sound good. Why not just buy something that's sounds right to begin with.

I use it direct only. I don't even bring my expression pedal with me (though I might start doing so). It sounds fantastic live. It blows away the hd series stuff we had been forced to use. I would not have bought it for bedroom only. I am with you on some points. It seems like some are buying it as an effects processor only. This surprises me but it would s cheaper than a lot of pedal setups I see. While I do not get these huge elaborate setups either to each his own.

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I think the way you have approached this is a huge mistake

You have shot yourself in the foot with this post

I'm not going to explain why

Perhaps you should choose a better medium for communicating with your vendors if you don't like it when they answer your unspecified slagging

I've saved this conversation as a passive aggressive thinly vieled threat ... Sorry for 'future reference'

Nah, he has a right to be miffed. Sometimes I take for granted that many of you already know the whole snarky exchange this place (and TGP) has. I can imagine it's a bit odd at first discussing the hows and whys directly with the people who design the gear you use. I would've provided more context had I not been typing from my phone at my fiancée's über-religious grandfather's 90th birthday. So apologies, totgate.

 

The thing with L6 LINK is that it's an open-ended one-directional audio and bi-directional MIDI platform with zero inherent features. Depending on the product—or rather, groups of products specifically designed to work together, like StageScape and StageSource, or POD HD500X and DT50—it can be extremely powerful... or do nothing. In the case of Firehawk 1500, adding L6 LINK would literally do nothing but replace a single analog cable with a single digital cable. There'd be no consolidation of cabling, there'd be no extra features, and you'd pay more than $999, because L6 LINK ain't cheap. StageSource maintains L6 LINK because it was designed to be networked with and remotely controlled by a StageSource M20d mixer. If there was no M20d, L2 and L3 probably wouldn't have L6 LINK either, because again, replacing one analog cable with one digital cable isn't worth the effort or MAP pricing increase.

 

So if there's a specific feature or set of features one would want L6 LINK to accomplish, they'd have to let us know what they are. That's all.

 

Ok, ok... This is craziness! Let me get this right. You buy a $1500 floor processor to help get rid of your excess load to a gig then you want to add the fh1500 63lbs of mass. Why in the heck don't you just bring a real tube amp then. Also this is one of the many reasons I dumped my helix. it was costing to much to find what you think you need to make your helix sound good. Or am I missing something here? Or maybe 99.9% of everyone on this forum just plays at home and can have there helix tied to there l2t to there Firehawk 1500 to then whatever, because they don't schlep gear. And spend, spend, spend for trying to justify making there helix sound good. Why not just buy something that's sounds right to begin with.

If one's used to a particular tube amp, they should absolutely, positively use their tube amp; in fact, we designed Helix to work great with tube amps, both with 2CM and 4CM. FRFR is a completely different kind of experience, and if you're accustomed to the feel of a tube amp flapping the back of your pants, yeah, it's not the same. It was never meant to be the same.

 

Luckily, I'm a studio rat, so when I experience tube amps, it's from the control room while amps are mic'ed up in another room. Modeling sounds 100% natural to me.

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Going to give the Helix+FH1500 another spin at Friday's jam; went really well last week as a three piece, second guitarist and possibly second drummer coming this time, so it will be a proper SPL test of the gear! From cranking it up on Friday, I don't think it's gonna be a problem. I have the L2t's over there too, might do something crazy like L6Link out to the L2t's, then XLR out from there to the FH1500. Dunno if I need *that* much volume :)

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If you get enough FRFR wattage and drivers, you can make the back of the pants legs still move...

hehehe.   Kinda defeats the idea behind no longer needing insane stage volume to get great tone, though.

 

I do, however, run my FRFR monitors fairly hot, though.  Still having to compete with a traditional tube

amp guitarist on the other side of the stage.  Bass player is also using a bass rig on that side as well.

 

It's still a heck of a lot quieter, though.  I have mine on a pole.  Up near the ear level back behind me.

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If you get enough FRFR wattage and drivers, you can make the back of the pants legs still move...

hehehe.   Kinda defeats the idea behind no longer needing insane stage volume to get great tone, though.

 

I do, however, run my FRFR monitors fairly hot, though.  Still having to compete with a traditional tube

amp guitarist on the other side of the stage.  Bass player is also using a bass rig on that side as well.

 

It's still a heck of a lot quieter, though.  I have mine on a pole.  Up near the ear level back behind me.

 

This is my situation, almost exactly, except I put my speaker on a pole stand to my side. Other guitarist and bass player with amps on the other side of the stage. I used to put my speaker on the floor in front of me (wedge), but being 6'6", would need to crank it to hear very well. At shoulder height, I can get volume levels lower, keeping overall stage volume lower. I use a Quilter Tone Block 200 and a Yorkville Neo-equipped PA/monitor speaker.

 

Dave

 

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How does the overall output level compare to a pair of say Alto TS112s, or Mackie Thump 12s. I really like the idea of an AIO FRFR amplifier, but in trying my HD500X through the bigger AmplifI I couldn't get any sort of usable stage volume. 132dB SEEMS loud, but how much of that is going to be unnecessary low end from the center speaker? Will this box be able to compete in "in-room" volume with a loud 4x12? Basically, I need my rig to be able to push enough volume to be usable in scenarios where the guitar isn't getting PA support and there is a loud drummer. I can do that now with $600 worth of powered speakers, but I have to carry two boxes (admittedly, those two boxes together don't weight as much as this amp). 

Hello

 

I have just purchased a Helix and i was looking at a Good AMP, i looked at the FireHawk1500 but it looks like it has all effect from the Helix. will that be a waste of money?

or would you have a better arrangement ( AMp etc) to recommend?

 

Any Advise will be highly  appreciated

 

 Ben

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Hello

 

I have just purchased a Helix and i was looking at a Good AMP, i looked at the FireHawk1500 but it looks like it has all effect from the Helix. will that be a waste of money?

or would you have a better arrangement ( AMp etc) to recommend?

 

Any Advise will be highly  appreciated

 

 Ben

 

The effects on the Helix and the Firehawk are different even if some of the have the same name. All the amps and effects on the Firehawk are taken from the POD HD and X3/POD Farm generation of Line 6 processors. Those on the Helix are all new - called the HX generation. The one sort of exception are the reverbs on the Helix. The Helix does use HD reverbs, but they were re-worked, re-sampled to take advantage of the Helix's extra DSP.

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The effects on the Helix and the Firehawk are different even if some of the have the same name. All the amps and effects on the Firehawk are taken from the POD HD and X3/POD Farm generation of Line 6 processors. Those on the Helix are all new - called the HX generation. The one sort of exception are the reverbs on the Helix. The Helix does use HD reverbs, but they were re-worked, re-sampled to take advantage of the Helix's extra DSP.

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The effects on the Helix and the Firehawk are different even if some of the have the same name. All the amps and effects on the Firehawk are taken from the POD HD and X3/POD Farm generation of Line 6 processors. Those on the Helix are all new - called the HX generation. The one sort of exception are the reverbs on the Helix. The Helix does use HD reverbs, but they were re-worked, re-sampled to take advantage of the Helix's extra DSP.

 

Thank you for the precision answer, i will abuse by asking one extra question, is it necessary to also purchase the Controller? i am also planning to purchase a JVT-89F  and the Wireless transmitter receiver to replace my Sony one how would i connect my JVT-89F guitar if using a standard Jack? i assumed i need to connect the Variax guitar to Varian input on the Helix?

 

 

Kind regards

Ben

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Let's talk real power not peak.

It has a 80 watt center channel amp.

2x80 amp and a 440 watt amp.

 

Looks like a total of 680 watts rms with high 1% thd.

 

Not sure how loud one 12 and what looks like two 6.5's are going to be compared to a regular 2-12 cab and would fail up against a 4-12 cab.

 

1% thd can be picked up by the human ear.

I miss old specs back from 1997-2000 like on a ppi power class amp signal to noise ratio 115 decibel , thd .006, dampening at 500.

 

Guess I'm still old school and I hate seeing peak power ratings. To get the full peak power you would have to blast a the perfect hrz for an instant with some really high total harmonic distortion level.

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Let's talk real power not peak.

It has a 80 watt center channel amp.

2x80 amp and a 440 watt amp.

 

Looks like a total of 680 watts rms with high 1% thd.

 

Not sure how loud one 12 and what looks like two 6.5's are going to be compared to a regular 2-12 cab and would fail up against a 4-12 cab.

 

1% thd can be picked up by the human ear.

I miss old specs back from 1997-2000 like on a ppi power class amp signal to noise ratio 115 decibel , thd .006, dampening at 500.

 

Guess I'm still old school and I hate seeing peak power ratings. To get the full peak power you would have to blast a the perfect hrz for an instant with some really high total harmonic distortion level.

 

Totally agree, specs these days can be really deceptive or practically non-existent, particularly since the advent of "D-Class" amplifiers which almost always list peak power instead of continuous. The lack of consistent apples to apples numbers on power can make it difficult to accurately compare products. At the very least I like to see a piece of equipment I am considering list frequency response, continuous or "RMS" power, THD, and the item's total weight.

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Totally agree, specs these days can be really deceptive or practically non-existent...

Yep, same everywhere though. Buy a new car...the only way you'll ever get the milage #'s they advertise is if you only drive downhill, with a constant 50 mph tailwind. ;)

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Yep, same everywhere though. Buy a new car...the only way you'll ever get the milage #'s they advertise is if you only drive downhill, with a constant 50 mph tailwind. ;)

 

No kidding! And that is downhill in both directions with no passengers or cargo and no one heavier than an anorexic jockey at the wheel, also no accessories whatsoever on, even if that means no windshield wipers, heat, or headlights at 2am in a driving rain/snowstorm in the middle of January.

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Ok, ok... This is craziness! Let me get this right. You buy a $1500 floor processor to help get rid of your excess load to a gig then you want to add the fh1500 63lbs of mass. Why in the heck don't you just bring a real tube amp then. Also this is one of the many reasons I dumped my helix. it was costing to much to find what you think you need to make your helix sound good. Or am I missing something here? Or maybe 99.9% of everyone on this forum just plays at home and can have there helix tied to there l2t to there Firehawk 1500 to then whatever, because they don't schlep gear. And spend, spend, spend for trying to justify making there helix sound good. Why not just buy something that's sounds right to begin with.

Some of us already have a good system to use with a Helix that we have been using for the HD500 units with great success. My system is one L2 speaker on a tripod speaker stand behind me with the the XLR out to the mixer. I have done many gigs now with that system and I am now upgrading to the Helix. For all gigs I bring L2, speaker , speaker stand, HD500 (soon to be Helix) and a couple of guitars and some cables. This is the smallest lightest rig I have ever gigged with and it outperforms everything I have used since the late 70s also.

 

-Max

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Thank you for the precision answer, i will abuse by asking one extra question, is it necessary to also purchase the Controller? i am also planning to purchase a JVT-89F  and the Wireless transmitter receiver to replace my Sony one how would i connect my JVT-89F guitar if using a standard Jack? i assumed i need to connect the Variax guitar to Varian input on the Helix?

 

 

Kind regards

Ben

You can't use the Variax VDI connection with a wireless unit only the 1/4 output from the guitar. The downside is that with the 1/4 output on the Variax you can't use the Helix to change guitar models or tuning or interact with the Variax guitar at all.

 

-Max

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Let's talk real power not peak.

It has a 80 watt center channel amp.

2x80 amp and a 440 watt amp.

 

Looks like a total of 680 watts rms with high 1% thd.

 

Not sure how loud one 12 and what looks like two 6.5's are going to be compared to a regular 2-12 cab and would fail up against a 4-12 cab.

 

1% thd can be picked up by the human ear.

I miss old specs back from 1997-2000 like on a ppi power class amp signal to noise ratio 115 decibel , thd .006, dampening at 500.

 

Guess I'm still old school and I hate seeing peak power ratings. To get the full peak power you would have to blast a the perfect hrz for an instant with some really high total harmonic distortion level.

Watts are actually not a good way to measure how loud a system gets in general. The same amp (watts) to a highly efficient speaker can be twice as loud as to another, less efficient speaker.

That is why we have used the dBSPL @ 1m spec. That says "how loud (sound pressure, unweighted) can the system get at 1m distance". We have still published the peak power just because it is what everyone else does and we also published the RMS watts (sine, continuous, all at 1% THD).

There is no simple solution since most people are not familiar with dBSPL and "Watts" does not actually say anything about how loud a system gets.

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Watts are actually not a good way to measure how loud a system gets in general. The same amp (watts) to a highly efficient speaker can be twice as loud as to another, less efficient speaker.

That is why we have used the dBSPL @ 1m spec. That says "how loud (sound pressure, unweighted) can the system get at 1m distance". We have still published the peak power just because it is what everyone else does and we also published the RMS watts (sine, continuous, all at 1% THD).

There is no simple solution since most people are not familiar with dBSPL and "Watts" does not actually say anything about how loud a system gets.

 

Thanks for the note on dBSPL, good to know.  Just wanted to add that although "watts" may not necessarily say anything about loudness, there is often a correlation. Extra watts can give you more "usable" loudness. One thing extra watts does often buy you is extra headroom before things start to distort.

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Thank you very much.

If I understand correctly, I better use the variax connection only, connect guitar directly to the helix via vdi to have full control of both guitar and helix.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Kind. Regards

Ben

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Watts are actually not a good way to measure how loud a system gets in general. The same amp (watts) to a highly efficient speaker can be twice as loud as to another, less efficient speaker.

That is why we have used the dBSPL @ 1m spec. That says "how loud (sound pressure, unweighted) can the system get at 1m distance". We have still published the peak power just because it is what everyone else does and we also published the RMS watts (sine, continuous, all at 1% THD).

There is no simple solution since most people are not familiar with dBSPL and "Watts" does not actually say anything about how loud a system gets.

I understand the 1 watt 1 meter. Higher db = more efficient speaker. Lower db - stronger speaker most times.

And if speaker is not X maxing or amp /signal is not clipping on full out....... Like you say all is good in the world.

 

Not knocking the product. It's just that I wish companies could go back to rms power ratings..

 

If you have one 12 doing 125 decibel on say 200 watts. How do you get more?

To get 3 decibels more in theory you can 1 double the power (Watts) or 2 double the speaker surface.

I guess with bass you have a 3rd option of porting, a port done right can give you up to 3 extra decibels over a bumped range of the hertz you picked for port. But wattage with matching speakers is how you get decibels

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I do have something I have no clue on. Maybe you can help.

 

I understand mosfet A,B,C class and D class.and the combos of say AB or BD.

 

But I have no clue why a 15 watt blues Jr. Or any 15 watt tube amp can be stupidly louder than a solid state 50 watt or sometimes even 100 watt guitar amps.

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So, I've put on the Firehawk 1500 forum reviews of the amp as stand alone. I've grown up with the red pods etc. thru hd500x, helix's yes I had two. Now fw1500. If your struggling with your helix and the unending array of possible frfr monitors to make it sound good. Take a look at the fh1500 forums stuff.

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I do have something I have no clue on. Maybe you can help.

 

I understand mosfet A,B,C class and D class.and the combos of say AB or BD.

 

But I have no clue why a 15 watt blues Jr. Or any 15 watt tube amp can be stupidly louder than a solid state 50 watt or sometimes even 100 watt guitar amps.

 

There is a pretty good answer from an amp designer here:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?88098-So-why-ARE-tube-amps-louder-than-solid-state

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If you had a tube amp and a solid state amp with the same RMS power rating for the same load, going into the same speaker, with both amps running clean, you would have exactly the same power and loudness.

 

If you completely distort both amplifiers at 100% distortion, the amps would also have exactly the same loudness and it would be twice the power and 3dB louder than what the amps were putting out at maximum clean output.

 

Power is area under the curve, and a sine wave has exactly 1/2 the area under the curve as a square wave at the same amplitude, which is what you get then the clip an amp at 100%. RMS is clean power, and an amp clipping at 100% is putting out twice as much power and 3dB more loudness.

 

The perception of loudness difference occurs between these two extremes since the amps behave differently when they distort. When an amp distorts, the top and/or bottom of the sine wave is clipped off since the amp has no more headroom in which to amplify the larger input signal. The corners of that clipped wave form add harmonics to the sound that are whole number multiples of the frequency and any overtones generated by the guitar string. That's what we hear as distortion.

 

Tube amps tend to distort musically, that is, the overtones they generate when they clip are generally pleasant to our ears. Solid state amps generally don't distort musically. So a tube amp can sound "clean" and nice, ever though it might be distorting quit a bit, and therefore have more area under the curve and deliver more power and loudness.

 

Plus the overtones generated by distortion give a different, more exciting tone - that's why we love it. It sounds more powerful (because it is) and gives more sustain since the distorted amp is actually a big non-linear compressor.  The overtones from solid state amps that are just beginning to clip don't sound as nice, possibly because of more odd order harmonics created by sharper clipping. So we don't tend to turn those amps up as much. 

 

To apply this to modeling - if you are using Helix with amp and cab/IR models into a FRFR, Helix should be doing all the distorting, not the FRFR. Solid state is fine here, but you want to make sure you have enough power that the FRFR never even gets close to clipping. This is especially true of Class D amplifiers which don't clip musically either.  I use a Hafler Transnova P3000 300W RMS (150/channel) power amp into my home-made FRFR cabinet (Tremolux style) that has two 10†Eminence Beta-10CX 10†coaxial speakers, with ASD:1001 compression drivers for the high end. If I were using to 10" guitar speakers in the same cabinet, 60 W RMS would probably be more then enough.

 

If you're using Helix as a pedal board into the front of a guitar amp, then you probably don't have any amp or cabinet models in Helix, but will be using distortion blocks to create controllable distortion into the guitar amp which should be run mostly clean. Again, a solid state amp will need to be much higher power than a tube amp in this situation since the tube amp can distort musically while the solid state amp should probably never clip.

 

If you're using 4CM, then you might be getting some distortion from the preamp in your guitar amp, but the power amp (effects loop input) will likely be running clean.

 

​Another approach that can work well is to use an amp model in Helix, but no cab or IR, and just run that into the effects loop input of your guitar amplifier. You can use its power amp and speakers to get the advantages of a real guitar amp, but have the choice and flexibility of Helix for everything before the power amp. Again, the amp should be running pretty clean for this setup, get the distortion from Helix.

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The perception of loudness difference occurs between these two extremes since the amps behave differently when they distort. 

 

+1

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amsdenj.

 

Nice write up.

My background is car audio, while the rules are the same pro audio and car audio are applied differently.

 

Only time I ever maxed out a car amp I used an O-scope to read the sine wave then pushed it to the limit of the sine curve with least amount of clipping.

 

In guitar audio it seems clipping is a good thing? Naw I already guessed in a guitar amp the power amp is not being clipped, the pre amp stage is being clipped.

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In a traditional guitar amp, everything clips, preamps and power amps. Which one contributes to most of the clipping has a big impact on the tone. Sag is mostly a result of power amp cliping, but it can effect the preamps too as their plate voltages drop and recover.

 

Some guitar amps use diodes, possibly offset with a bias voltage to do preamp clipping. Preamp tubes run class A thend to have very asymetric clipping due to the difference between cutoff and saturation, one being much more abrupt than the other.

 

Tone voicing after the diodes can help warm up the distortion tone to make it more tube like.

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Can the Firehawk 1500 play at low volumes in an apartment, and would it use a lot of electricity if used at low "apartment" volumes? I don't plant to use the amp outside the apartment (not in the near future anyway) so I would purchase the amplifii 150 but it does not have more than 4 presets on it (neither the ability too connect it to a mixer etc.). Thank you.

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Can the Firehawk 1500 play at low volumes in an apartment, and would it use a lot of electricity if used at low "apartment" volumes? I don't plant to use the amp outside the apartment (not in the near future anyway) so I would purchase the amplifii 150 but it does not have more than 4 presets on it (neither the ability too connect it to a mixer etc.). Thank you.

 

The Firehawk 1500 seems a bit like overkill for an apartment with no intentions to use it live. Although the Amplifi has "four" presets it has unlimited tones that can be downloaded with the app. The HD500X or the Helix if you want to spring for it through a couple of small powered speakers, your favorite amp, or even headphones seems like a better choice.

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The Firehawk 1500 seems a bit like overkill for an apartment with no intentions to use it live. Although the Amplifi has "four" presets it has unlimited tones that can be downloaded with the app. The HD500X or the Helix if you want to spring for it through a couple of small powered speakers, your favorite amp, or even headphones seems like a better choice.

 

Line 6 and thousands of other companies exist because of overkill. "What if" is an extremely strong motivator.  ;)

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Line 6 and thousands of other companies exist because of overkill. "What if" is an extremely strong motivator.  ;)

 

Ain't it the truth!  B)

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Hello,

 

I have also thouhgt buying some "true stereo" rig for the Helix. Is Firehawk like a "own product" or could it be used well with the Helix unit?!? I have researched also DT25 (pair) or just the DT50 2x12" but I guess it is off market now? At the moment I have a pair of normal amps, the other is true valve amp (H&K Statesman Quad 40w and the other is just basic solid state Peavey Studio pro 1x12" Transtube) and a solid state and I think the sound is quite good for stereo or "doubled mono". So my question here is :

 

* what could be the suitable amp for Helix thinking of the stereo usage? (beside the Firehawk)

* would the use of Firehawk or similar be the same when using 2 separate basic amps? (thinking of the final signal or the sound qualities etc 1 vs. 2)

* is the signal from Helix´s both 1/4 outputs to 2 mono amps same than Firehawk alone or some other stereo capable amp?

 

To my mind 2 separate basic amps with good speakers could be enough because you still can control both of them and maybe add something you would like to the final output sound and on stage you could benefit little more when placing each amp as you like in the area where you play. Or is Firehawk´s other separate cabinet sizes etc suitable enough just for this approach... Interesting product and the price is very reasonable for all that amp could be good for (acoustic, keyboard etc). What happened to the DT-series? The DT50 is not for sale anymore?!? It was "the best" with POD HD (500) and now there is only head and combo 25 W?!?

Please tell how the Firehawk works with the Helix and if you have other else suggestions for amps to choose let me know, thanks!

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I'm still struggling a bit to understand the value of the FH 1500 in that setup. You have Helix doing the guitar processing, so the FH1500 isn't necessary for that. Helix is also feeding FOH. You have the L2t (2 of them) as floor monitors, also fed by Helix, so no need for the FH 1500 there. Why is the FH 1500 on the stage?

 

Thats the same thing Im fighting here, by owning a pair of 500 watt Atomic CLR's already.

 

I really want to try the Firehawk 1500, but why?.....

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The whole point of L6 LINK is to build a network of multiple speakers for stereo or wet-dry-wet setups. Firehawk 1500 is wet-dry-wet stereo by itself and it's stupid loud; there's not really any need to run more than one—certainly not enough to warrant developing L6 LINK for it. The protocol is expensive and can be insanely complex; we don't add it unless it's really necessary.

 

As far as digital connections go, modern A/D/As and clocking are so good, an extra pair of conversions isn't going to suck any tone.

How loud is Stupid loud? (anyway I see a db value). I'm playing a song via blue tooth in my living room. I have the volume at about 95% I though it would be a little louder. I have to play around with it, I think the drummer I play with is going to drown me out. I was hoping to make his ears ring for a change ;). I had a DT25 combo,DT25 head+cab and a PodHD500X, I was never totally satisfied with it. The Firehawk 1500 has a few more features that are more important to me. I've done a factory reset.  So far it seems pretty good. I have to put on my back brace and lug it down to the garage.

 

 

update... How loud is stupid loud? that would be Very Loud indeed. looks like this may get it done. The weight is a drag but the FB1500, a fbv and guitar and I'm set.

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Thats the same thing Im fighting here, by owning a pair of 500 watt Atomic CLR's already.

 

I really want to try the Firehawk 1500, but why?.....

 

Let me answer that.... Because I can....  :D  :D  :D

 

And Im glad I did. The Firehawk by itself is one hellova nice sounding amp and FRFR powered system tone wise. The cloud has a gazillion patches for it too. And for Helix, there just couldn't be a better stage amp in my opinion. As always YMMV...  ;)

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Very[/u] Loud indeed. looks like this may get it done. The weight is a drag but the FB1500, a fbv and guitar and I'm set.

Make sure that the Firehawk 1500 is updated to the latest firmware. There a a few DB's more in that :-)

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I am not educated at all in the terminology used a lot in these forums, but I know what wet/dry/wet is and I want to know exactly how to integrate the Helix with Firehawk 1500 properly to utilize all of the speakers in the amp and get a true wet/dry/wet sound. Please, Barney language required here. Thank you very much. 

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Simple Nick. Heres one way... XLR Main outs from Helix into Monitor XLR in's on the FH 1500. Then a send from the back side of the Helix amp/cab into the guitar in on the Firehawk 1500. wet/dry/wet

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