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Show your boards! Stereo setup


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Here is my board I made for the hd500x. I've replaced the ditto with a 720 but nothing else has changed. I built the board out of pine that I had sawed and kilned for shop lumber. I didn't use any joinery and it was very simple to make. Although I did get to this point from a log, a nice woodshop will have better options. I made this before I seen the ikea hack but it is very much the same.

As for routing, there are many options and I'd like to know how you guys are incorporating your stereo rigs with fx loops and this pedal. I'm currently running the pedal itself in mono because the octave and modulation are really nice on the front end, then both amps have a different od from the aby, a single eq, stereo reverb, and stereo/pan volume. In the effects loop is a timefactor, trinity reverb, and looper (currently). I find myself moving these around a lot. Anyone have any better routing options or suggestions?


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Mine isn't in stereo, but...


So I had a pic of my "dry fit" in another thread.

Here's the whole thing.
1st Dry Fit:
I decided to repurpose some cable that I had not used for many years, was just sitting in one of my storage bins of all my gear not currently in use.  To replace the plugs, rather than spending upwards of $60 on a solder-less kit ala and I then purchased a 10-pack of 1/4" Right Angle Plugs that I found on Ebay 
As I mentioned in the other thread, I re-puposed some sheets of 3/8" plywood to make this new board.  I measured and cut it to fit inside of my Rondo Pedal Case made the board 3 sheets thick.  The center piece is a "spacer" to allow passage of the power cables and the audio cables concealed between the outer two sheets.  The spacer runs the perimeter of the board, as well as strategically placed spacers in the center of the board, most notably where I would step on the expression pedal, the Boss pedal, etc...  This is mainly because these areas have to bear more weight due to the heavier switches, so I didn't want the board to sway or dip when I use these switches.  I also decided that in order to clean up the edges from splintering around the perimeter, as well as the passage holes routed in the top, that a 3/8" round-over bit should do a nice job of cleaning that up.  After that, since the top was nearly perfectly cut, and the center and bottom pieces were roughly cut to match, my flush cut router bit that I use for routing pickup/control cavities should clean that up nicely, and I think it did a reasonable job of doing so.
These pics give you a sense for how rigid this board is, plugs won't accidentally unplug so easily, nor will the power cables do so.
These brackets that I used to mount them are easily found at most hardware stores.  I found these at Home Depot, for about $3.00 a 4-pak.  I got the idea from decided that I could likely find a more cost effective solution.  In the same fashion as the "pedal links", these are non-invasive and totally reversible.  They basically act as an oversized washer with an extended tab.  I'm going to go back and remove them temporarily so that I can paint them black, then re-apply them so that they'll blend in for a cleaner appearance. Since the G30 Relay Receiver uses very small headed screws that recess into the chassis, I was not able to use the same bracketing system, so I'll have to use some hook&loop fasteners (Velcro), but, the nice thing is that I can just staple the one piece to the board and it'll be easier to remove later if I need to.
In discussions with True Tone (formerly Visual Sound) regarding their ONE SPOT ac power supply and adapter kits, we had ascertained that using the ONE SPOT power supply would not be enough to power the HD500X, but it would power all of the other components.  Even then, using the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, even the ends on those would not fit the HD500X anyway.  We later determined that I could use the HD500X's factory power supply to power the entire rig with no risk of hurting any of the other components, so they advised doing so, but first adding their L6 adapter, to get it into the HD500X, then their reverse polarity connecter plugged into the L6, then the end of the 5 Cable Plug Daisy Chain, powered by the HD500X factory power supply.  Now I have accomplished my goal of powering the entire rig from one single "wall wart".  I still have room to add another pedal between the Boss & the Morley pedal, i.e. Dunlop John Petrucci Wah pedal or another Boss pedal, but honestly, I have most of what I like and would find useful already in the HD500X.  I can now switch between Wireless A, Wireless B, and a cable as a backup on the fly.  With all of the Morley switches de-selected, I have another mute function.  With the extra power outlets on my power strip, I can power perhaps an iPad, Laptop, my synth rig, or anything else needed.  I played this at work the other day and FOH loved being able to just lay out an XLR cable for me to plug into, then I powered it up, they gave me some back in my monitor, and since I'm very meticulous about the way I set up my presets, they were able to switch the eq "out" on the channel strip on the mixing console.
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Very cool ideas! That's a board that your great grandkids could use lol! Attaching the pedals directly will definitely keep people from running off with stuff. I'm currently looking for a patch bay to keep the board tidy.

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