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Variax And Helix


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I own a Helix rack and am now thinking of purchasing a Variax guitar. How is the Variax connected to the Helix Rack? I see the Variax input on the back of my Helix Rack. Is there a dedicated Variax cable? Is there an additional interface and / or additional software needed for the Variax?

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http://www.amazon.com/Line-Variax-Digital-Interface-Cable/dp/B000JLMXSC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

That's the cable for it. I also bought a JTV because I bought the Helix. The fact that it can save the Variax settings in a patch is huge. One thing I wasn't counting on was the total silence in the high gain patches. If I go the the magnetic pickups it's a reminder of one of the great benefits the Variax offers. All of the models are completely silent. No turning down the volume on your axe or trying to figure out which way to rotate and stand, just beautiful silence. That alone is worth the price of admission to me.

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I own a Helix rack and am now thinking of purchasing a Variax guitar. How is the Variax connected to the Helix Rack? I see the Variax input on the back of my Helix Rack. Is there a dedicated Variax cable? Is there an additional interface and / or additional software needed for the Variax?

No additional software or interface required, all you need is a Variax (Ethercon) cable to connect the Variax to the Helix and you are off to the races. The Helix powers the Variax. More fun than a barrel full of mermaids. If you purchase a new Variax it will include a gig-bag, battery and charger as well as an Ethernet to USB connector so that you can hook it up to your computer for firmware updates and to use the Workbench app for custom designing guitars. The Workbench app requires you to register the Variax with Line6. You will need to purchase a Variax or Ethercon cable separately.

 

I got a Variax recently and highly recommend it, among many other compelling features contained in the fashion the Variax communicates with the Helix is the simple ability to have it force the model as well as an alternate tuning on the Variax from a preset. So for instance, I have presets named Rickenbacker, Banjo, Dobro, Sitar, Martin D-28, etc., that immediately bring up instruments I would not ordinarily have on tap. You can have a Strat or other model come up with an Open D or other alternate tuning. The corresponding model and tuning on the Variax is automatically selected when I click the Helix preset. You can also control pretty much any parameter, e.g. the distortion drive level or delay tempo from the volume and tone controls. All these features are old hat for Variax owners and you can find a ton of information on the Line6 Variax forums.

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Fantastic info and thanks to all. Have been researching the newer Variax models and have decided to go with the Strat design because it has a tremolo. Looks like the Paul designs have a standard wraparound. No local music store has one in stock so I will order. The Youtubes I have heard are pretty astounding.

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IF you are serious about having a tremolo then I would look at the JTV89F which has a dedicated Floyd Rose system with locking system.  This is by far a much more stable system tuning wise.

Thx, I saw that one. It is certainly on the list. It is my understanding that regardless of body style for the post 700 guitars, I would have access to all of the all of the available modeling offered by Line 6. Meaning all of the newer models offer all of the same technology. So the least expensive Standard has the same guts as the high end USA made guitar?

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Thx, I saw that one. It is certainly on the list. It is my understanding that regardless of body style for the post 700 guitars, I would have access to all of the all of the available modeling offered by Line 6. Meaning all of the newer models offer all of the same technology. So the least expensive Standard has the same guts as the high end USA made guitar?

Yes that is right. I went through the same process as you and only discovered the Variax after looking at the Helix.

I went for the JTV89F as I also wanted a tremolo (showing our age a bit there lol). A couple of differences from the Strat model, the JTV has 24 frets and the tunings supplied already loaded on the guitar are different on both models. The JTV89F is set up more for shredding tunings and the 69 more for classic rock. But since you can preprogram the tunings into the patch as HonestOpinion mentioned the tunings on the guitar are immaterial. They can all be overwritten on the guitar anyway. What I would say is my 89F plays beautifully and with the Helix I can get pretty much any sound I want. I am really happy I took the plunge. Like you I couldn't find one in store to try so I just went ahead and ordered it. It's pretty much the only guitar I play now. Having the different sounds and the immediate retuning after a patch change (with no change of tension in the strings) means I can play a 12 string acoustic guitar sound with the ease of a well set up electric guitar. Awesome :)

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Thx, I saw that one. It is certainly on the list. It is my understanding that regardless of body style for the post 700 guitars, I would have access to all of the all of the available modeling offered by Line 6. Meaning all of the newer models offer all of the same technology. So the least expensive Standard has the same guts as the high end USA made guitar?

Yes they do, and I always forget about the new Standard that has been released since Yamaha took over.  Certainly  a good way to get into the Variax way of life.  Just not a big fan of that type of tremelo system.

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I have a Variax Standard that I use with Helix. My intended use was as a backup guitar and for quick changes between songs to different guitar tones, including acoustic, and some open tunings. It does that. But it doesn't replace my Strat or Les Paul. My overall issues are:

  1. The nut is cut too narrow putting the strings too close together. This can be changed and its on my TODO list.
  2. I don't know if its my instrument or a problem with all Variax guitars, but the three plain strings (G, B, E) don't sound right to me in any of the models. They don't respond properly to pick attack, have a sort of "banjo" or overly resonate tone, and don't sustain properly. I have adjusted the pickup volumes using Workbench HD, they were all over the place. I can balance the strings, but they still don't sound right to me.
  3. The models are ok, but not great. I suspect the audience wouldn't notice the difference, but I do. So it effects how I'm inspired to play - both the tone and feel of the models, and the physical feel of the instrument are OK, but not inspiring. My Strat and Les Paul are both very different and almost play themselves they are so nice.
  4. In particular the acoustic models aren't that good at all. My old Variax 700 acoustic has much better models of the same instrument.
  5. The tremolo isn't great, but OK. I had to wrap the bar threads in plumber's tape to address a lot of play in the bar, but that seems to have fixed it ok. A Hipshot Tremsetter might be a good option to install to improve the tremolo. I have one on my Strat and it really works as advertised.
  6. It seems like the "POD XT" version of guitar models - I want the "Helix" version. To that end I hope Line 6 will provide a Workbench HD option to get the raw piezo outputs so we can use guitar body models in Helix for more modeling flexibility. This could open a whole new set of features for Variax and Helix.

Overall the Variax Standard does what I expected it to do, but not more. I'm still struggling with whether to bring my Les Paul to gigs, or just the Strat and Variax. 

 

What I like about the Standard:

  1. Its much lighter than my Strat, so that's helpful for an old guy on a 4 hour gig.
  2. The magnetic pickups sound pretty good to me
  3. The open tunings work great but I wish:
    1. The tuning light would stay on like the model knob does so I can see what tuning its in and remember to reset it
    2. That a quick push of the tuning knob would toggle to/from standard tuning like a push of the model knob toggles between the magnetic pickups and the guitar models. I use open-G a lot and that would provide a quick way to turn it on and off
  4. Its an all in one solution for the gigging musician for different tones that are likely good enough for most audiences
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...

2. I don't know if its my instrument or a problem with all Variax guitars, but the three plain strings (G, B, E) don't sound right to me in any of the models. They don't respond properly to pick attack, have a sort of "banjo" or overly resonate tone, and don't sustain properly....

 

Hmm, funny you should mention this, I was just noticing the same thing on my JTV-69s today but I figured it was a setup problem or just the preset I was on. I hope this is not a problem with the piezos or the software. I will optimize the setup first, do some comparisons between the mags and models, and then take stock again. The lack of sustain was what I was finding particularly troubling. The notes were dying unnaturally quickly, almost like a palm mute had been applied.

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Hmm, funny you should mention this, I was just noticing the same thing on my JTV-69s today but I figured it was a setup problem or just the preset I was on. I hope this is not a problem with the piezos or the software. I will optimize the setup first, do some comparisons between the mags and models, and then take stock again. The lack of sustain was what I was finding particularly troubling. The notes were dying unnaturally quickly, almost like a palm mute had been applied.

I'd say it was setup if it also occurred with the modeling off, but it doesn't on my guitar. It could still be setup if its a problem with the angle or string pressure on the piezo, but that would seem like a design problem since there's not that much choice on a Strat style bridge.

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Hmm, funny you should mention this, I was just noticing the same thing on my JTV-69s today but I figured it was a setup problem or just the preset I was on. I hope this is not a problem with the piezos or the software. I will optimize the setup first, do some comparisons between the mags and models, and then take stock again. The lack of sustain was what I was finding particularly troubling. The notes were dying unnaturally quickly, almost like a palm mute had been applied.

I would be really interested to know what others think about this phenomena. Meaning the G,B and E strings having issues with sound quality - or is this a guitar by guitar issue and not an across the board thing.
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I would be really interested to know what others think about this phenomena. Meaning the G,B and E strings having issues with sound quality - or is this a guitar by guitar issue and not an across the board thing.

 

I don't want to jump to any conclusions yet. I did a setup on my Variax last night and I will be retesting.

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My Vax Std had a slight warble on the G and B strings, but much more so on G. This happened both models and mag pups. It turned out that one of the 6 screwa that hold the bridge plate down was over tightened (came that way from factory) and because of the extra tension near that edge of the plate, it kept one corner of the plate up away form the body at all times. Once I slightly loosened the screw so that the corner rested against the guitar body, the warble went away. Not sure what was the mechanics of the warble, but maybe the corner that was lifted up moved slightly sympathetically when certain strings were played, but in my case  at least, it seems to have been a setup issue.

 

Also, like Amsdenj, I would prefer that the tuning light stayed on like the model knob light, though I understand that this might not be the best for battery life. Maybe on a future Vax FW upgrade there could be an option to have the light on in sync with the model knob light? Some of us who use a L6 device that has a Vax input do not care as much about battery life and it would be a nice thing to have.

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Well, after attempting to do a setup on my practically new Variax I discovered that the nut had been either cut too low or notched too deeply(from the factory), actually seemed like a bit of both, and that no matter how much I raised the saddles it was still buzzing on open strings; even after checking neck relief and the whammy angle and height. The buzz impacted the E, B, & G strings and appears to be at least the most obvious cause of the lack of sustain and tonal weirdness. So an exchange is happening.  Will try and report back after I get the new one. I would say string buzz was accounting for my issues now. We will see if a properly setup Variax is free of issues.

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I don't know if its my instrument or a problem with all Variax guitars, but the three plain strings (G, B, E) don't sound right to me in any of the models. They don't respond properly to pick attack, have a sort of "banjo" or overly resonate tone, and don't sustain properly. I have adjusted the pickup volumes using Workbench HD, they were all over the place. I can balance the strings, but they still don't sound right to me.

 

With my JTV-69 I've noticed when playing models with the high strings at the high frets the volume level is much too low as compared to doing the same thing with the magnetic pickups. This would not be an issue with the nut (see below) and I'm sure the string heights are good.

 

Well, after attempting to do a setup on my practically new Variax I discovered that the nut had been either cut too low or notched too deeply(from the factory), actually seemed like a bit of both, and that no matter how much I raised the saddles it was still buzzing on open strings; even after checking neck relief and the whammy angle and height.

 

My JTV-69 nut must have been cut too low as well. After five years of playing it for a couple of hours per week, I'm not sure that the first few frets should be a worn as they are. It needs re-crowning bad or maybe even new frets.

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Here's a quick way to check neck nut height: one at a time, press each string down between the 3rd and 4th fret. Then tap your finger on the string over the 2nd fret. There should be just enough gap between the fret and the string that you can see it, and you get a nice ping when the string hits the fret. 

 

Note that nut height is only part of the story, how it's cut can make a big difference too. The angle should be cut so that there is a smooth flow from the nut to the string winding pegs.

 

Some people prefer to set string height with a capo on the 1st fret to eliminate any issues with the nut height. Perhaps a good practice is to do the neck relief and nut height first, then set string height. Doing them in that order ensures they are all correct.

 

However, nut height does not address the issue I'm having with the G, B and E strings on my Variax Standard because this happens on fretted notes too. And I have the action adjusted properly so that there is minimal fret buzz. It seems more like pickup variability to me.

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  • 1 month later...

I purchased an Ethercon cable here: http://btpa.com/Line-6-Variax/

 

I had mine made very long.... 35 feet and cost less than 50 bucks.

 

One thing I was concerned with was how stiff the cable was. I was happy toning that the cable "hangs" just line a guitar cable, and the connectors are solid.

 

Although you could use a simple cat 5 cable, I would only suggest that in a pinch, and not at all for a gig.

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