Ordering/purchasing An Us Custom Jtv69 Variax

[merlinlake78 0]

Hello.

 

Not sure if this the right place for my question. But I want to know if the Us custom variax
is still made, and how do you order/purchase these guitars? Is there some kind of form I

have to fill in? And how does it take 'till its ready and shipped to europe?

 

Thanks.

 

[TheRealZap 7,366]

Still available... although they aren't really "custom" in the manner that you can pick and choose...

the custom ones are handmade, with better appointments and more finish/neck choices.

you can find a few of them ready to ship at sweetwater:http://www.sweetwater.com/store/search.php?s=james+tyler+variax

sweetwater can likely help you get whatever you want as well.

you can get more details or make an inquiry here:

http://www.tylervariax.co.uk/variax_usa.html (for the UK)

this site appears to claim that you CAN custom order it...

so perhaps i have old information... you can always ask.

 Talk to a JTV expert: 1-818-575-3730 M-F 9am-5pm Pacific Time

[merlinlake78 0]

Hi.

 

I got another question. Is it also possible to have a locking trem. installed on the jtv-69 model, or is that a jtv-89 exclusive?

Thanks.

[kmulvihill 0]

merlin, they don't do custom like that. trem is jtv-89 exclusive...

 

Kevin

[merlinlake78 0]

Oh that's a pitty. It doesn't matter. The jtv-69 comes with locking tuners..right? So that is basicly the same idea?

[davidb7170 219]

The tuners are locking on the 69, but typical Floyd Rose equipped guitars use a locking nut as well. The 69 has a trem setup like a strat. You usually can't dive-bomb with a strat type of trem and have the guitar stay in tune, like a FR trem. I'm not a trem user myself. I have a 59 (not trem) and a 69S -- that I don't use the trem on, so I tightened the springs so the bridge basically rests on the guitar surface. I do the same with my strat. It improves my sustain.

 

The other guitar player in my band has FR's on all of his guitars, and uses them to good effect -- I just never went that direction in my playing style. I see how much of a hassle changing strings and tuning is for him, and I shudder.... They're such a delicate balancing act. I tried to help him out on getting the intonation adjusted once, but even that's different on the FR's -- uses hex wrenches under the front of the bridge pieces -- loosen strings, adjust, tighten - repeat (over & over)... Once I saw what was involved, I didn't touch it. FR's are not for me.

 

I think the locking tuners do improve tuning stability on the 69's of those who do use their tremolo's. I like the locking tuners even though I don't use the trem -- it makes string changing a bit easier & faster, too. Not enough for me to replace my 59's tuners, though. Some in the forums here have changed their 59's to locking tuners and like them quite a bit.

 

Dave

[Dark-Star 2]

On a JTV-69, yes, right, the tuners are locking. So is the Trem Bar, it is internally threaded so it screws into the bottom of the bridge, and the set screw to make the Trem Bar Bushing Collar snug a the top of the Collar Bushing. It is firm at both top and bottom of the Trem Bar. The locking Trem Bar has been on these JTV-69's for quite sometime now. 

 

I don't "dive bomb" much, but when I do, it works pretty good on the 69's I play.

 

I understand Dave's trepidation regarding Floyd Rose locking systems, more finer adjustment points, don't worry about it, like everything else about guitars and guitar playing, it takes practice. You get used to it. The Graphtech Floyd Rose bridges I've experienced on the JTV-89's are pretty solid.

 

And I have a 69 and two 59's myself. The locking Trem Bar on the 69 works good for me. Two different locking systems (on the 69 and 89), both pretty solid. Works for me, I like them.

 

 

[davidb7170 219]

Dark-Star --

One thing I've noticed on my 69S and it's tremolo is that when I change strings -- if I take all strings off at once so I can dress the frets and oil the rosewood fingerboard, the trem block springs pull the bridge down on the guitar body and dis-engages from the 2 pivot posts. If I unhook the tremolo springs, the whole thing just come dis-engaged and flops around in the cavity. Is this common on the 69 guitars? If so, I'd think more people would be remarking on it in the forums. You need about 3 hands to get it back in place and the strings not popping out of the bridge slots...

 

The first time I did it, it was quite a POP -- was afraid it would damage the gold finish of the guitar.  I've gone to leaving the 2 outside E strings in place when changing strings, but it makes I a pain to oil the fingerboard, etc. If the 2 stud posts had more of a cap that wouldn't let the bridge pop off, I think it would not be a problem... From what you've said in some other posts, it sounds like you're a Line 6 tech -- any thoughts on this?? My late 70's Strat is the kind with the 6 screws on the front edge of the tremolo block, so this was a new twist to me -- was not aware that this would be a problem...

 

When you say locking system on the tremolo bridges, you talking about the arm, not the bridge itself, right?

 

Off topic I know -- Sorry...

Dave

[merlinlake78 0]

Just a few days..4 to be exact, and then im finally be able to order the Us custom JTV-69 guitar. Its soo awesome man.

[merlinlake78 0]

Yeps. It's done. I just ordered a Line 6 JTV-69 US custom in lake placid blue, alder bordy w/ maple neck and H-S-S config. Its soo awesome man.( I had to share this..) 

[merlinlake78 0]

Hello. I have encountered a little problem here. I re-charged my battery and put it back into the guitar. And pushed the models button. But the button doesn't light up and I hear nothing. Or the LED just flashes for a very brief moment and again nothing happens. Did I place the battery the wrong way or wasn't it fully charged at all? What the propper way to place the battery.?

[chiumc 0]

I am a proud owner of a JTV-59US and JTV-69US. They are excellent and on par with other custom shop guitars in my collection. I intend to buy one more for my 69US is of maple fret board and ash body. I can easily fit in my collection a rosewood fret board and alder body. However, I like the les paul style more. I want to know what is the visual different of a single-A and Five A maple top. Both of them are similar on my inspection. Does Five-A is sonically higher grade or visually more beautiful. Is it more expensive to opt for the five-A? If yes, how much? There is no such information provided in line6 web site or in the Sweetwater web site. 

[chays 1]

Dark-Star --

One thing I've noticed on my 69S and it's tremolo is that when I change strings -- if I take all strings off at once so I can dress the frets and oil the rosewood fingerboard, the trem block springs pull the bridge down on the guitar body and dis-engages from the 2 pivot posts. If I unhook the tremolo springs, the whole thing just come dis-engaged and flops around in the cavity. Is this common on the 69 guitars? If so, I'd think more people would be remarking on it in the forums. You need about 3 hands to get it back in place and the strings not popping out of the bridge slots...

 

The first time I did it, it was quite a POP -- was afraid it would damage the gold finish of the guitar.  I've gone to leaving the 2 outside E strings in place when changing strings, but it makes I a pain to oil the fingerboard, etc. If the 2 stud posts had more of a cap that wouldn't let the bridge pop off, I think it would not be a problem... From what you've said in some other posts, it sounds like you're a Line 6 tech -- any thoughts on this?? My late 70's Strat is the kind with the 6 screws on the front edge of the tremolo block, so this was a new twist to me -- was not aware that this would be a problem...

 

When you say locking system on the tremolo bridges, you talking about the arm, not the bridge itself, right?

 

Off topic I know -- Sorry...

Dave

 

I know this is a really old topic and the quoted post is kind of off-topic, but my '69 does the same thing.  I thought it was just mine.  Has anyone found a solution for this?  I guess I could block the trem or use a tremel-no device...  

[cruisinon2 2,534]

I know this is a really old topic and the quoted post is kind of off-topic, but my '69 does the same thing. I thought it was just mine. Has anyone found a solution for this? I guess I could block the trem or use a tremel-no device...

There really is no solution. Every Strat-style 2 point floating bridge in the universe is gonna do that. Either change strings one at a time, or find some means of keeping the bridge in its "neutral" position if you need to remove all the strings at once.

[snhirsch 91]

Yes, all two-point bridges are prone to this.  However, I haven't seen many where the torque starts pulling the pivot inserts out of the body!  That happened to me the other week when I had to remove the bridge outright to work on the transducers.  This was with a sheet of plastic under the back of the plate, BTW.  It was quite a dance getting it back together and strung up to pitch.  If the net force vector isn't at or very near a right-angle to the pivots the inserts start climbing out.

[cruisinon2 2,534]

Yes, all two-point bridges are prone to this. However, I haven't seen many where the torque starts pulling the pivot inserts out of the body! That happened to me the other week when I had to remove the bridge outright to work on the transducers. This was with a sheet of plastic under the back of the plate, BTW. It was quite a dance getting it back together and strung up to pitch. If the net force vector isn't at or very near a right-angle to the pivots the inserts start climbing out.

Well that is odd...can't say I've seen that happen on mine, and I have popped the bridge off the posts once or twice. Food for thought tho...