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JTV-59 arrived, unexpected observations & questions


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Hi all, I found a good deal on a used JTV-59 in practically new condition, bought it and finally arrived.

 

First thing I noticed is the super large frets. Looks like 6100. Not usually the size of choice for me but actually very nice to play on, and the fret ends are finished super nice. Just found a couple of high frets that I can spot mill, recrown and polish myself if I'm needing to make closer to perfect. One great thing about super jumbo frets like this is the long wear you get out of them.

 

Neck back shape: from what I read I was expecting a Gibson 1959 similarity. This is like a 59 back shape profile but with the shoulders sanded down. Not what I expected but really comfortable to play on. I'm really enjoying playing on this back shape.

 

The neck carve where it meets the body feels even better than it looked in the pictures. Makes access to the upper frets so much easier than my Gibson Les Paul.

 

Volume and tone knobs: The knobs are bonnet style knobs. For me these knobs are hard to grip, and being countersunk because of the electronics inside I suspect, makes gripping even more difficult. I need to change these knobs so does anyone know if they have the standard knurl post most potentiometers do?

 

Bridge: So the string ball anchors in the back of the bridge and the string wrap holding the ball is exposed and laying on top of the bridge including the string's wrap end. So while palm muting your hand can easily rest on these sharp string edges poking up. Pretty odd. Seems fraught with peril. Thoughts?

 

Last question: This is my second variax. Does workbench remember which variax you are on when you make changes, like the individual string volume and such? Is that information actually stored in the variax guitar?

 

Thanks for your help in advance folks!

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Only solution to the sharp ends on the string tails poking into your hand is to wrap them in masking tape or electrical tape - you can also attempt to always have the sharp bit facing down when changing the strings but that is much easier said than done.

 

Workbench  settings are specific to the variax and not generic to any variax you attach to Workbench.

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Yeah, I can work on the string tail before I install it to help minimize the issue. Never seen a remark here on the forum about it so must be no big deal to people I guess.

 

Cool, glad Workbench remembers each different Variax. Thanks edstar1960.

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.....

 

Cool, glad Workbench remembers each different Variax. ....

 

I doubt that Workbench 'remembers' each different Variax. I think it's more that all the configuration settings are stored in the Variax and are loaded into Workbench at startup. I think it operates the same as, say, the POD HD Edit or Helix editor programs. The first thing the editor program does is read all relevant information from the connected device. It has no memory of previous device connections - it just starts fresh with the connected device for each edit session.

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Anyone have a good trick to pull the volume and tone knobs off the JTV-59? Slippery little buggers. Worried I am going to damage the high tech potentiometer underneath with how hard I am having to pull.

 

Does anyone know if the pot shafts are coarse knurled or fine knurled? Thanks.

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Anyone have a good trick to pull the volume and tone knobs off the JTV-59? Slippery little buggers. Worried I am going to damage the high tech potentiometer underneath with how hard I am having to pull.

 

Does anyone know if the pot shafts are coarse knurled or fine knurled? Thanks.

 

I have not removed the volume and tone knobs myself but I think the best way to remove them is to slide something like a duster or piece of cloth or string underneath them and then grab the ends and pull gently upwards to ease off the knobs.  That way you only apply pressure to the underside of the knobs and you don't damage the surface of the guitar.

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Edstar1960, PERFECT suggestion sliding a peice of cotton twine, rocking back and forth under the knob and they came right off! Thanks!

 

And, the verdict on the volume and tone potentiometer shafts is that they are a course knurling 18-spine style.

 

I have these amber speed knobs now on their way. Should look good with the Tobacco Burst, http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=guitar+rubber+speed+knob&view=detailv2&&id=93E68BAE8EEDF667C397038CC4F6A304AB2640FD&selectedIndex=0&ccid=qHsTbefD&simid=608036013075465429&thid=OIP.Ma87b136de7c3c505149eb42003615fcao0&ajaxhist=0

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Here's the best trick I've heard of and used. You need two spoons and some soft cloth to put under them. You want to put the tip of each spoon under the knob on opposite sides of each other with the cloth underneath to protect the finish. Then press both handles of the spoons down and the tips of the spoons will lift it off. The best part of this is it provides equal pressure on each side of the knob. I'll try and find a pic of what I'm talking about.

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On the JTV-59, they have countersunk the knob holes so the knobs sit down into the carved top. That prevents spoons from being able to slip under the knob rim without damaging the corners of the countersink. For a flat surface though, that is an excellent idea!

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I was just looking at the Tobacco and the Cherry sunburst and love the tobacco. That's the best picture I've seen and wanted to know if they all are that well finished.  It's gorgeous. 

 

Thanks.

 

I have the JTV59 in Tobacco and mine has an almost identical finish to the one in the picture.  I think it is an excellent finish.  I think the vast majority of them are finished to a similar standard but as with all production runs, there must be some that are not quite as good, so you cannot guarantee every single one will be as good - but I think you would probably be very unlucky to get a new one with not such a good finish - and if that is the case - if it is new - then you can always ask to swap it for another one if it is not up to standard.

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Thanks for answering. Since it is a production model I'm going to assume that they are like that.  I've just never seen a real picture as the ones on websites don't seem to show how beautiful they are.  The pictures are flat.

 

Have you seen a Cherry sunburst one? Or maybe someone can post of a few pictures of a cherry sunburst jtv-59. 

 

I'm an old (58) beginner. I played 35 years ago and am starting over. I have a 1989 Fender Strat Plus deluxe which I love but this looks like it would be a lot of fun also. I use the Line 6 Spider jam which is a great practice amp. 

 

Thanks again.

George

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Thanks for answering. Since it is a production model I'm going to assume that they are like that.  I've just never seen a real picture as the ones on websites don't seem to show how beautiful they are.  The pictures are flat.

 

Have you seen a Cherry sunburst one? Or maybe someone can post of a few pictures of a cherry sunburst jtv-59. 

 

I'm an old (58) beginner. I played 35 years ago and am starting over. I have a 1989 Fender Strat Plus deluxe which I love but this looks like it would be a lot of fun also. I use the Line 6 Spider jam which is a great practice amp. 

 

Thanks again.

George

 

I have not seen the cherry burst other than in pictures - but I guess it will have the same flamed maple pattern but with a burst that is red rather than brown.

 

Interestingly, I originally ordered a cherry but they could not get hold of one so they offered me the tobacco instead and I accepted - and I was thrilled when I got it - it looked so much nicer in the flesh - so I am not at all disappointed that I didn't get the cherry.

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I agree, I'm going with tobacco also. The color and finish in my opinion just make this model pop. Cherry sunburst to be is always trying to look like an LP. That's just my opinion. I did have to explain to my wife why as a beginner I needed another guitar.

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