Jump to content
Smashcraaft

JTV-59 intonation problem - Bad Bridge placement.

Recommended Posts

The longer and deeper I get in, trying to do the perfect setup for my JTV-59 the harder I feel that the bridge is not placed well by the factory or specs.

 

If I try to setup the intonation well, I have to place the string-adjustment-sliders on the bridge (don't no the proper term for ist in English) back, at the very end, both on low E and A. There is no way to screw them more backwards so I am very glad, that this is the point, where intonation is okay but not perfect.

 

I am in contact with some other players of the JTV59 and they can confirm my guesses.

Besides there are some images of the 59er bridge in the web, witch indicates the same problem.

Of cause there are other images where the adjustment-sliders are shown the right way but I am pretty sure not everyone is even testing the intonation.

 

But here is also an older thread on this topic without any statement of L6

http://line6.com/support/topic/3630-jtv-59-intonation-problem-with-9s/?hl=jtv-59+intonation

 

String gauges I tried...

9-46

10-46

10-52

 

I even tried to proof the intonation using a capo and measuring the 13. fret.

Also the tiny screws at the bridge are adjusted as long as possible, without loosing the possibility to adjust the height of the bridge by covering this screws.

 

I would like to ask psarkissian if this is a known "issue" (you don't have to call it an issue as I am sure you are not allowed) so I can stop my search for the holy grail of intonation. Otherwise I like to ask for further advices getting the bridge adjusted the right way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a JTV59 and when I set the intonation on mine, I found I was quickly at the end of the extent of movement for the low E saddle.  So I had to move the entire bridge backwards using the tiny screws that allow it to slide backwards on the mounts, and I found that it soon started covering the large screws used for height adjustment. In other words, the slot through which you access the height adjustment screws was moving backwards and the screws started to get obscured by the bridge.

 

I think the easiest solution in these cases is to set the string height (action) first - then once happy with that you set the intonation - if you can't move the saddles back far enough to get the correct intonation then you have no choice but to move the entrie bridge back so it starts to cover the height adjustment screws.  This should not be a problem because you have set your desired string height already.

 

Obviously, if you wish to change string height after setting intonation, then you will have to slide bridge forward again to access the height adjustment screws.

 

Hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a JTV59 and when I set the intonation on mine, I found I was quickly at the end of the extent of movement for the low E saddle.  So I had to move the entire bridge backwards using the tiny screws that allow it to slide backwards on the mounts, and I found that it soon started covering the large screws used for height adjustment. In other words, the slot through which you access the height adjustment screws was moving backwards and the screws started to get obscured by the bridge.

Thank you. That does help me to understand that my Axe ist not manufactured inproper and you are another user on my list.

Would you agree with me, that the bridge should be reset to 5-8 mm, as specifiction for the factory?

 

I wonder, why Line 6 have released a bridge with such a inflexible position? Positioning a bridge shouldn't be wizardry or toss for it  :blink:  :ph34r:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you. That does help me to understand that my Axe ist not manufactured inproper and you are another user on my list.

Would you agree with me, that the bridge should be reset to 5-8 mm, as specifiction for the factory?

 

I wonder, why Line 6 have released a bridge with such a inflexible position? Positioning a bridge shouldn't be wizardry or toss for it  :blink:  :ph34r:

 

I can't speak for every JTV59.  But for my JTV59, I think if the bridge height screws were both 5mm further back, then the slots in the bridge to access the height screws would be more centrally aligned allowing more backwards and forwards movement for the whole bridge. That in turn would allow the string saddles to be moved further back if necessary - although it may prevent them from being moved as far forward as required if somebody prefers to set higher action.

 

The fact that the entire bridge can be moved forward or backward should provide the necessary flexibility to get the string saddles in the perfect positions for intonation even if it does mean that the bridge itself will obscure and possibly prevent access to the bridge height screws.  But as I mentioned above - if you set the height first and then move the bridge backwards/forwards and adjust saddles then you should be ok.  I know that is not perfect but it should be a workable solution. 

 

Obviously, if the entire bridge is moved to the furthest extend backwards, and the string saddle still hits the back of the bridge and the intonation is still not correct because it requires the saddle to be moved further back then I would say that there is a manufacturing fault and the guitar should be returned as faulty.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes it is answer enough to see psarkissian not jump into a JTV discussion ;)

It seems very clear to me that the bridge position is not optimal.

 

But anyway... intonation is nearby okay withe the E, A, D saddles pushed hard against the very back of the bridge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried moving the bridge further back so that it covers the bridge height screws? In other words, the access slots are further back so you can't adjust the height screws with the allen key?  With the bridge further back like this, you can then hopefully adjust the saddles of the E, A and D to optimal positions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi edstar. I am aware of this possibility but at the moment I am still trying to setup the neck perfectly and so I am using the screws for the bridge-height from time to time. After that I will give it a try (ignoring my sad feelings about pushing the bridge as far backwards by such tiny little screws).

 

But I like to thank you for your patience with me :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a new thread where I try to find out about differences in specs and production over the years. 

I am really sure there are differences in fret-size and neck-scale but the problems with the room to move the bridge-saddles seems to occur all over.

 

F.e. a friend of mine with a W1108 tries to compensate the observed fault in 1. fret placement by milling the nut, now.

 

It is very interesting, that frets are not placed as they mathematicaly should be and the bridge placement is bordered, too.

I would love to find out if other JTV-59s do have the same or deviating fret and scale values.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any luthier worth his salt should be able to help you measure the frets on the neck and calculate the correct bridge placement.  It's all just math.

(Not being a luthier, I don't know the math myself, but I'm sure it's easily searchable)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any luthier worth his salt should be able to help you measure the frets on the neck and calculate the correct bridge placement.  It's all just math.

(Not being a luthier, I don't know the math myself, but I'm sure it's easily searchable)

Maybe I did not express myself right: I know the right values because of a calculation sheet but it seems, that the korean factory of Line 6 do not know their stuff (or L6 their specs).

It's my intention to compare the values to find about if it differs from guitar to guitar or just bulk to bulk. More on this in this thread… 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×