Jump to content
Rocco_Crocco

Post pics of the pedalboard you use in addition to the Helix

Recommended Posts

I use this to supplement my Helix. Made it out of pine 1x8 and 1x2. Had green paint on hand, so figured... why not?

 

PGbF2rS.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool! I used a Pitch Black tuner forever, right up until I got Helix. Great unit, I still keep it for use as a bench tuner. I was running a standalone "satellite board" for a while, but it ultimately got to being kind of a hassle. So I consolidated onto a Pedaltrain Terra.

 

Photo%20Jul%2030%2C%2010%2020%2037%20AM.

 

(Helix is not hanging off the board, trick of perspective...) Guitar is straight into Trio+ with the rest of the board in its loop. FreqOut is in front of Helix. The two treadle pedals are home-brew expression pedals built in a RotoVibe and Wah enclosure. Bit Commander, Shoe Gazer (and the NS-2 Noise Supressor), and the Erupter are each in their own Helix FX Loop. The remaining loop is the last block in the chain and is used to send back to Trio+ FX Return and then bring the Trio's output back. Everything out via XLR to an Atomic CLR cab. 

 

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude, what did you do with the footswitches? Looks really cool!

And why did you exchange the Volume and Phones knobs?

  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude, what did you do with the footswitches? Looks really cool!

And why did you exchange the Volume and Phones knobs?

Those are "Barefoot Buttons", I actually learned about them in a different thread here on the forum. They are really cool and quite functional to boot; they are pretty proud of them though.

http://barefootbuttons.com

I used the short ones on the front row and the tall ones on the rear, excellent for clearance. They install with three set-screws, and touching the set screw lets you access the Helix capacitance features, which is really nice. And if you get the clear ones, they allow the LED rings on Helix to shine through in a very cool way. Night shot (apologies for the focus, it was, well, dark...):

 

Board%20-%20Dark.jpeg?raw=1

As for the main volume and headphone volume knobs, I often use the headphones to monitor with the main volume all the way down (baby nap time, for instance) and found that the main volume was always creeping up. Every sweep of the hand or catch of the headphone cord wanted to grab it. By swapping them, it makes for a smaller target as well as reducing how easily the knob is turned. No more inadvertant rafter-rattling, haha!

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude, what did you do with the footswitches? Looks really cool!

And why did you exchange the Volume and Phones knobs?

agreed! too cool. just ordered a full set of clear!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use this to supplement my Helix. Made it out of pine 1x8 and 1x2. Had green paint on hand, so figured... why not?

 

 

Rocco, I have a couple of questions about your G30, as I've been contemplating going wireless. If you don't mind, what is the footprint of the receiver? And does it require its own wall-wart or can it be powered by the 9v supply on a pedal board?

 

Thanks!

 

-VB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are "Barefoot Buttons", I actually learned about them in a different thread here on the forum. They are really cool and quite functional to boot; they are pretty proud of them though.

http://barefootbuttons.com

I used the short ones on the front row and the tall ones on the rear, excellent for clearance. They install with three set-screws, and touching the set screw lets you access the Helix capacitance features, which is really nice. And if you get the clear ones, they allow the LED rings on Helix to shine through in a very cool way. Night shot (apologies for the focus, it was, well, dark...):

 

 

As for the main volume and headphone volume knobs, I often use the headphones to monitor with the main volume all the way down (baby nap time, for instance) and found that the main volume was always creeping up. Every sweep of the hand or catch of the headphone cord wanted to grab it. By swapping them, it makes for a smaller target as well as reducing how easily the knob is turned. No more inadvertant rafter-rattling, haha!

 

Hey, those barefoot buttons look pretty cool, are they V1 or V2? Do the tallboy ones make a big difference to hitting the right buttons at the back?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My board is pretty sweet and simple with the Helix... Snapshots and the ability to tie MIDI CCs to controllers really does make it feel like the Strymon pedals are part of Helix in this setup.

 

VNRshJi.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, those barefoot buttons look pretty cool, are they V1 or V2? Do the tallboy ones make a big difference to hitting the right buttons at the back?

 

They are the V1. The "Tallboy" buttons in the back really do make a significant difference. Here is a picture taken from the side. The angle of the Helix's surface is exaggerated by its being on the Pedaltrain, but you get the idea:

Photo%20Aug%2001%2C%2011%2013%2017%20AM.

The other thing that has been great with them is that they prevent inadvertently activating the capacitive touch function. Maybe I'm the only one, but that was a significant enough nuisance for me that I actually turned it off. The Barefoot buttons prevent accidentally activating it, but still allow you to access the functions when desired by touching the set screws. That has been really nice for me.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My board is pretty sweet and simple with the Helix... Snapshots and the ability to tie MIDI CCs to controllers really does make it feel like the Strymon pedals are part of Helix in this setup.

That is a sweet, sweet setup you've got there!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rocco, I have a couple of questions about your G30, as I've been contemplating going wireless. If you don't mind, what is the footprint of the receiver? And does it require its own wall-wart or can it be powered by the 9v supply on a pedal board?

 

Thanks!

 

-VB

Hi Verne... It uses a regular 9volt supply. I use a One Spot to power all the pedals. The footprint measures 2 1/8" x 4 3/8". Hope this helps.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Verne... It uses a regular 9volt supply. I use a One Spot to power all the pedals. The footprint measures 2 1/8" x 4 3/8". Hope this helps.

 

It certainly does, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are the V1. The "Tallboy" buttons in the back really do make a significant difference. Here is a picture taken from the side. The angle of the Helix's surface is exaggerated by its being on the Pedaltrain, but you get the idea:

Photo%20Aug%2001%2C%2011%2013%2017%20AM.

The other thing that has been great with them is that they prevent inadvertently activating the capacitive touch function. Maybe I'm the only one, but that was a significant enough nuisance for me that I actually turned it off. The Barefoot buttons prevent accidentally activating it, but still allow you to access the functions when desired by touching the set screws. That has been really nice for me.

If honking of getting these. So with the 3 screws touching the metal switch it definitely works so I can still use Helix as normal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If honking of getting these. So with the 3 screws touching the metal switch it definitely works so I can still use Helix as normal?

 

It definitely does. You have to touch one of the set screws as opposed to just the surface of the button, but doing so you can do the block bypass assignment, switch between parameters controlled by the switch, swap assignments with other switches, all of the capacitive functions. I was pretty tickled to discover that. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello!

 

Here's my current board.

Helix is a fantastic beast by itself, but it has those loops so i wanted to add a few thing keeping the board compact and clean... 

 

183105hx1.jpg

 

My plan was to add the Hog2 (which is pretty unique, impossible to match with the Helix), A Strymon Mobius (for Rotary, Autowah, Destoyer,...) and of course the relay G10.

 

After hours of seach i discovered Temple Audio Design Board Duo 24, which has the perfect size for my needs. I had to find some very flat patch cables (not to mention Midi) and a special power cable because i wanted to start everything with a single button...

 

783347hx2.jpg

 

Also i included a few options like these jacks on the side to plug the Hog2 controller (not used on stage, just for maintenance) and an additional expression pedal (if needed).

 

618377hx3.jpg

 

I was really happy with the result (Helix controls everything perfectly), but a friend of mine proposed me a great great deal for an H9. Ok, i didn't needed it, but i thought a bit and decided i could install it below the board (it is controlled by the helix and set by my bluetooth PC, so i don't really need to see it!). I tried the installation and it works perfectly.  As you can (maybe) see everything is powered by a strymon Ojai with a special cable for the H9 and a 5 to 9v converter for the G10.

 

198836hx4.jpg

 

Special bonus : i use mainly this guitar with the Helix. It is a Skelter. Hand made by a french luthier. He makes guitars to your specs, with a mix of pallets and steel. The sound is awesome and the price is really cheap. Each guitar is unique due to the wood selection process. I advice you to take a look at this, because i feel Skelter might be famous in a few years...

 

179717hx5.jpg

 

Time to play!

  • Upvote 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Karis_shem You have style, Sir!!!

Can you please share where you got the power cable and midi cables from?  I'm trying to streamline my board as well. 

 

The hardest thing I am dealing with is actually the power supply.  I have at least four things to power (three are bricks) so I'm looking for a way to make that neat and clean.  Yours is under the board so that's easy.  Mine has to go on top.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was really happy with the result (Helix controls everything perfectly), but a friend of mine proposed me a great great deal for an H9. Ok, i didn't needed it, but i thought a bit and decided i could install it below the board (it is controlled by the helix and set by my bluetooth PC, so i don't really need to see it!). I tried the installation and it works perfectly.  

 

That is awesome, talk about a secret weapon! I was able to mount my Pedal Power underneath my board with a bracket, but those rails down below on yours are brilliant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Karis_shem You have style, Sir!!!

Can you please share where you got the power cable and midi cables from?  I'm trying to streamline my board as well. 

 

The hardest thing I am dealing with is actually the power supply.  I have at least four things to power (three are bricks) so I'm looking for a way to make that neat and clean.  Yours is under the board so that's easy.  Mine has to go on top.

 

 

Thank you ;)

 

Here are some links for the cables (in Europe but i guess you can find them in the USA too). There are different sizes of course.

 

https://www.thomann.de/fr/one_control_midi_hammer_cable_50.htm

 

https://www.thomann.de/fr/ebs_pg_58_flat_patch_cable_gold.htm

 

The Strymon Ojai is quite small and powerful (5*500mA), but of course there's a power adaptor too...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is awesome, talk about a secret weapon! I was able to mount my Pedal Power underneath my board with a bracket, but those rails down below on yours are brilliant.

 

That's the good thing with the temple audio boards. They are delivered with a rail (ar least the wider ones) and you can order some more. It also comes with a bag (maybe as an option but there was a bag where i bought it).

 

The only problem i had is that the holes on the board are a bit too small for the kind of midi plugs i used. So i had to remove a bit of plastic to go through (you can see it on the H9 picture). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you ;)

 

Here are some links for the cables (in Europe but i guess you can find them in the USA too). There are different sizes of course.

 

https://www.thomann.de/fr/one_control_midi_hammer_cable_50.htm

 

https://www.thomann.de/fr/ebs_pg_58_flat_patch_cable_gold.htm

 

The ojai is quite small, but of course there's a power adaptor.

What about the power cable for the Helix?  I like the right angle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a similar thing under mine, Helix and Trio+ are powered by the courtesy outlet on the Pedal Power via a Y-splitter and I used a switched IEC cord for the supply to the Pedal Power, so the whole board is on one cord and one switch. I do like that right angle IEC on your Helix, very clean, thanks for that link!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Karis_shem, outstanding configuration and install! Very nice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello!

 

Here's my current board.

Helix is a fantastic beast by itself, but it has those loops so i wanted to add a few thing keeping the board compact and clean... 

 

183105hx1.jpg

 

My plan was to add the Hog2 (which is pretty unique, impossible to match with the Helix), A Strymon Mobius (for Rotary, Autowah, Destoyer,...) and of course the relay G10.

 

After hours of seach i discovered Temple Audio Design Board Duo 24, which has the perfect size for my needs. I had to find some very flat patch cables (not to mention Midi) and a special power cable because i wanted to start everything with a single button...

 

783347hx2.jpg

 

Also i included a few options like these jacks on the side to plug the Hog2 controller (not used on stage, just for maintenance) and an additional expression pedal (if needed).

 

618377hx3.jpg

 

I was really happy with the result (Helix controls everything perfectly), but a friend of mine proposed me a great great deal for an H9. Ok, i didn't needed it, but i thought a bit and decided i could install it below the board (it is controlled by the helix and set by my bluetooth PC, so i don't really need to see it!). I tried the installation and it works perfectly.  As you can (maybe) see everything is powered by a strymon Ojai with a special cable for the H9 and a 5 to 9v converter for the G10.

 

198836hx4.jpg

 

Special bonus : i use mainly this guitar with the Helix. It is a Skelter. Hand made by a french luthier. He makes guitars to your specs, with a mix of pallets and steel. The sound is awesome and the price is really cheap. Each guitar is unique due to the wood selection process. I advice you to take a look at this, because i feel Skelter might be famous in a few years...

 

179717hx5.jpg

 

Time to play!

Awesome!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My regular gig this summer had exceedingly small stage space (a six piece band, mostly multi-instrumentalists, in a tiny alcove of an outdoor seating area at a bar), so I had to get inventive.  I crammed my satellite board into a trumpet case - I checked to make sure they weren't generating too much heat, and then closed the case so I could put my preamp on the case.  

Here it is at a rehearsal, with the case open and the preamp seperate - the Carvin preamp is in loop 1, Bogner red and the Alter Ego x4 are in loops 2 and 3 every gig.  The PH3 is in loop 4 and the hof mini is between the Helix and my amp for church gigs only.  (Spider is for rehearsal only, I use a Hod Rod Deluxe into the power amp in for church, and straight to FOH for other gigs)
 

Pic here

 

And here it is at a gig - which, is not the greatest picture, as I mentioned it is an outdoor gig.  What you can see is pretty much my space on the stage.  My feet are literally just off the picture to the bottom, and my heels are up against the back wall!  

 

Other pic here and here

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool! I used a Pitch Black tuner forever, right up until I got Helix. Great unit, I still keep it for use as a bench tuner. I was running a standalone "satellite board" for a while, but it ultimately got to being kind of a hassle. So I consolidated onto a Pedaltrain Terra.

 

Photo%20Jul%2030%2C%2010%2020%2037%20AM.

 

(Helix is not hanging off the board, trick of perspective...) Guitar is straight into Trio+ with the rest of the board in its loop. FreqOut is in front of Helix. The two treadle pedals are home-brew expression pedals built in a RotoVibe and Wah enclosure. Bit Commander, Shoe Gazer (and the NS-2 Noise Supressor), and the Erupter are each in their own Helix FX Loop. The remaining loop is the last block in the chain and is used to send back to Trio+ FX Return and then bring the Trio's output back. Everything out via XLR to an Atomic CLR cab. 

 

Very cool.  This has given me some ideas about changing how I currently integrate the Trio+ into my rig.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20229722_1614644688560107_82197165431561

 

LR Baggs Gigpro is my violin input, which goes into Guitar input. FX1 goes into Whammy 5, controlled by instant MIDI.  Hot Hand3 handles Exp2, and DVP4 handles volume on Exp3.  The black box is a 3d printed permanent enclosure for the cell phone car charger circuit, which I hacked to give the Hot Hand its 5vdc supply.  Gigpro/Hot Hand mount is also 3d printed.  With this setup, both pedals and the Hot Hand are powered from the Sanyo Pedaljuice.  I only need to power the Helix and my monitor from house power.  I'm working on replacing the Whammy with a Sub 'n Up Mini, which will free up a lot of space and weight in the backpack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/1/2017 at 1:22 PM, phil_m said:

My board is pretty sweet and simple with the Helix... Snapshots and the ability to tie MIDI CCs to controllers really does make it feel like the Strymon pedals are part of Helix in this setup.

 

VNRshJi.jpg

 

Hey Phil_M, this is close to what I am trying to achieve with my Helix, two Mission Engineering expression pedals, and a Relay G70.  Did you remove the rubber feet?  I want to put the expression pedals on the Pedaltrain as well, so I guess I will have to remove the feet and re-insert the screws.  Thanks, man.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just finished installing my LT alongside a couple of old favourites on a Diago Showman (medium) - pretty good fit.

pedalboardwithHelix.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not very many pictures for a thread with "post pics" in the header. So...

Assessment, reconfiguration, assimilation, and integration are currently in process...

 

The HX Effects is a keeper...

 

That of course has necessitated some changes; some culling, and, as is usually the case, a couple of additional additions beyond the HX Effects. My EBS SC pedal is now where it belonged in the first place, on my bass pedalboard, a Black Cat Tremelo was made redundant a while ago when I got the Adrenalinn III and doubly redundant now that I have the HX. The BC may end up on the bass pedalboard as well, though. The additions are both from EHX; a "Flanger Hoax" which is almost as bloody big as the HX Effects, and a "Blurst" with an expression pedal. The Blurst, a well proper filter full of wacky and then some, replaces the more traditional EBS. The HX takes two expression pedals so two more are in the mail but I may just pony up for a dually from EHX or Boss.

 

The M5, Bad Stone, and MXRs might be on the chopping block after a few performances to make room for a few more boxes brimming with weirdness.

 

It's pretty much a complete reconfiguration so I'm taking the opportunity to make custom patch cables using Canare cable (same brand I use at work) and Switchcraft pancake connectors. I added another power strip to the front of the pedalboard and I still need to add another power distro to the underside but the pedal layout is pretty much locked in. A full day of measuring and soldering is in my future after Thanksgiving.
 

 

 

 

Pedalboard Progress 2 resize.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here’s mine. The Morley is used as 2nd expression pedal. In the corner you see a Behringer wired in ear beltpack which I have strapped to the board. I use a combined guitar and headphones extension cable with it.

The case is a Stonecastle one, biggest they had. It’s a shame that they have stopped with their business. Great cases made from plastic so relatively light but yet sturdy enough (I had and have no need for a real flightcase).

 

3C7C59F7-1A4D-4083-B55F-89280873C382.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another thing I am doing, because it is a USB Interface, is that I am connecting it to my IPAD on my Mic Stand and I am successfully integrating the tone stack app into the guitar chain.  So I am finding success with using the amp modelers on the STOMP with vol. control and triggering many of the Tonestack modulating effects which are very very good. For my one man band shows this is a great set up and I even integrate the HX STOMP signal into an IPAD looper app I have named Quantiloop.  In my one man band setup I use a foot pedal named beat buddy that delivers bass and drums for many of my songs and my app Onsong changes all of the songs via midi on my beatbuddy pedal.  My beat buddy is also midi chained into my HX stomp and my IPAD so it sends the tempo to my HX stomp and auto sets my BPM for all my modulation effects on the stomp HX and sends the BPM  to my Tonestack app effects on my IPAD and the BPM also syncs with my looper on my IPAD so everything is tightly integrated with BPM.  So a typical thing I do is start my beat buddy song then I loop a basic clean chord progression that repeats later early in the song.  I then stop the intro loop and play and sing live, then when it comes for a lead, I start the looper again and step on my lead channel on HX STOMP for soling over the chord progression.

 

Of course when i am playing with a band I only need my HX stomp with an expression pedal and tap tempo but my main goal was to merge the new IPAD apps with the hardware HXSTOMP and so far I am having success with it being a very flexible piece of equipment.stomp1.thumb.jpg.56a355c1653f7ca624089fb28e62eb6c.jpgstomp2.thumb.jpg.812ad0773cc8560b4ac4008932ba065c.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×