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Helix Tuner DOES Work Well!!! I'm The First To Admit It! PLEASE READ!


robbieb61
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klangmaler made a reply in one of the "tuner" threads, I thought his idea was B.S.

But today I had some time with my Helix at home, and I turned the tuner on...still sucked.  

Then I turned the tuner input from "Multi" (default) to "Guitar"

Holy crap! I don't know why or how...but the jumpiness was GONE. The tuner worked just like a "real" tuner should! No need for turning down the tone knob or hitting the string over and over real quickly. It just WORKS now.

Give it a try guys! And klangmaler, thank you for that post :
 

Again my hint concerning the tuner settings:

Double check what you really want to tune - "Multi" is not the proper option in many cases -

and what / how many cable(s) you put in  ;).

 

'Determines which input the tuner will listen to. Normally, you should choose "Multi," which listens to the Guitar, Aux, and Variax inputs simultaneously.' (manual, p. 33)

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If you do use the multi-input for the tuner, make sure the volume controls are turned all the way down on instruments you aren't using.

 

Note also that if you're using a Variax, be aware that if the modeling switch is engaged, switching to a patch may turn the guitar volume all the way up. This can cause feedback if the guitar is on a stand and not being played. This has happened to me twice. Make sure all guitars sitting on stands are turned all the way down and will stay that way when you change patches.

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I saw this topic in the morning and when I went to church today I tried your advice.

 

I use a snark tuner, the SN-8 I think, "super tight" tuner. It was at the last moment before I had to start leading so I could compare, but it did seemed less jumpy. I'll have to wait again until Tuesday, it's at church.

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I never had the extreme difficulty that others have encountered with the tuner, but even so I changed the input parameter on mine from "Multi" to "Guitar" and dang if it wasn't noticeably better. Many thanks to you (and klangmaler!) for the tip!

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Tried it at my gig last night. It was a little less jumpy, but nowhere near "problem solved." Sometimes I wonder if no two Helix tuners are the same.

Well, it's still not as "stable" as my BOSS tuner by any stretch of the imagination...but at least it is now "usable"

 

I couldn't use it at all onstage before. :)

I was able to use it at my gig last night with a Floyd equipped guitar...couldn't do that before. 

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I've never really noticed the jumpiness, but I will try this to maybe improve what I do have. 

 

One thing that I learned when I had my Fractal, was a tip to use the middle pick-up position and slightly roll off the tone knob, seems to give me a more solid tone as well to tune.  Not sure what it exactly does, maybe help eliminate some weird harmonics/frequencies generated by the bridge?

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One thing that I learned when I had my Fractal, was a tip to use the middle pick-up position and slightly roll off the tone knob, seems to give me a more solid tone as well to tune.  Not sure what it exactly does, maybe help eliminate some weird harmonics/frequencies generated by the bridge?

Every guitar seems to be different in this aspect. I notice this even between strats and teles. 

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I never had the extreme difficulty that others have encountered with the tuner, but even so I changed the input parameter on mine from "Multi" to "Guitar" and dang if it wasn't noticeably better. Many thanks to you (and klangmaler!) for the tip!

 

I use a JTV69. I changed tuner input to Variax and found great improvement. Also noted great improvement with Variax Mag. setting. Conclusion... tuning while using multi input is no good.

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I've noiced a slight jumpiness but it never bothered me that much.

 

I post only because I notice that using a 1/4" out of the Variax was less jumpy than the VDI which I usually use. I didnt check, but I'm probably set to Multi since I never changed it.

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Hmm, since I always use guitar in as well as tones at 8 or so and vol at 7 or so with middle select on my LPs and neck for Start I took it for granted the tuner worked well for me. 

 

Thanks to all for the 411 in this thread.  Now I'll have to test various settings and see the "why" of the on going tuner challenge.

 

Thanks all

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klangmaler made a reply in one of the "tuner" threads, I thought his idea was B.S.

 

But today I had some time with my Helix at home, and I turned the tuner on...still sucked.  

 

Then I turned the tuner input from "Multi" (default) to "Guitar"

 

Holy crap! I don't know why or how...but the jumpiness was GONE. The tuner worked just like a "real" tuner should! No need for turning down the tone knob or hitting the string over and over real quickly. It just WORKS now.

 

Give it a try guys! And klangmaler, thank you for that post :

 

You're welcome.

Did I have to mention, that I tried it with all my instruments (JTV, electric guitars, basses, ukuleles...)

before I posted my hint (again) :P ? No offense - none taken.

 

Anyway, keep in mind, that if you use a specific input, it could be of some advantage to change the tuner input, too.

Based on emperical evidence ;).

And, maybe for the next (big) Helix firmware (manual) (v.3?) my L6 suggestion, to change / work on  the (default multi) input option in tuner settings...

P.S.: If you want to use one of the best tuning devices in the world, give your trained ears a chance, folks...

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Things that helped me to use every highly sensitive tuner better:

 

- As Klangmaler said - using a single input on Helix

- carefuly dampening all strings except the tunded one (i use foam rubber when it comes to intonation adjustments)

- dampening long string overhangs as the e string on a Strat-type.

- Using the neck pickup

- not at all bending the neck during tuning, as this can cause extreme variations (try it!, i coluld'nt believe it the first time i tried. Even a bit pressure on the gear while adjusting causes floating the frequency away)

 

It seems to me that the Helix tuner is extremely sensitive wich is generally a good thing but causes logically jumpyness when the conditions are not perfect, as the tuner reports each small change imediately. When it comes to adjust the bridge or compensate the saddle, a really stable environment is a must. Therefore, the results seem to be pretty precise.

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