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POD HD 300 problem


jefflisboa
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Hi, always i use my pod it sounds like there was a signal loss, i already tested many cables, different guitars,, another power supply, i did factory reset and reinstalled all the updates but the problem remains.
have you ever experienced this? if yes, what was the problem and how to fix??

intro.3gp

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53 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

Check pedal calibrations in the owner's manual.

 

i already did!
this problem is happening as soon as i plug the power supply and remains for like 15 mins some times a bit more, after this time it souds normal

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51 minutes ago, spaceatl said:

That really sounds strange...sorta like an active guitar with a battery going dead...Does this happen in the headphones also?

yes, headphnes, output, balanced output, usb...
this problem lasts for like 15 mins, after this time my pod sounds normal but on stage i cant wait 15 mins or more till pod works properly  =/

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On 5/10/2018 at 12:42 PM, psarkissian said:

15 minutes,... sounds like an internal hardware problem. Not something to

do yourself. Log a support ticket, it will need servicing.

 

 

^^^ This ^^^

 

Either a failing filter capacitor that is taking a long time to stabilize from a cold start, or solder joints responding to the cold (off) / hot (on) state. Either way, it needs to be serviced. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 4 weeks later...

Same problem here... I have a 4 years old HD 300 which started to show similar problem mention by you.. It's a disaster... Try searching POD HD 500 SOUND CUTTING PROBLEM  on YouTube.. That guy had the same problem with his unit... There is no service near by me to fix the problem.. It's a total disaster.. Will have to think a million times before  buying a line 6 product next time. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a POD HD400 that has been exhibiting the same problem for over a year now.

For the first 10-15 minutes after power on from cold it goes through the following:

1) Silence apart from a crackle when you hit the strings really hard
2) Sound sounds like it has a really awful heavily gated fuzz or the world's worst noise gate attached it it

3) Settles down and works properly.
 

I suspect that a truly awful batch of capacitors was used at some point that break down and quit after 6 years or so...

Dear Line 6 - I know we're out of warranty, but a technical advisory highlighting a fix would be nice.

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Failed amp chip, old solder points,... hardware related. Needs to be serviced by an authorized tech who knows the insides. 

 

10 hours ago, omikl said:

I suspect that a truly awful batch of capacitors was used at some point that break down

Caps? More than likely not. Not if it's gating. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I bit the bullet and took my HD400 in to the Yamaha service centre. To cut a long story short: They can't fix it. "Spare part is not available". They were going to quote to replace the main PCB.

So, I have an HD400 that seems to be en route to the landfill as there is no way to get it fixed by Yamaha/Line 6.

Is there a service manual available that has circuit diagrams and diagnostic info? The technician said over the phone that the voltages on the main board were unstable.

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2 hours ago, psarkissian said:

Sorry to say then, if it's what I think it is, then it's a lost cause. 

Schematics not available and it won't help. 

 

That's some bedside manner you have there :)

Really disappointing with with the credentials listed with your avatar. 

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35 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

Even Superman couldn't save everyone. 

 

I fail to see the humor when a representative for the business basically gives the person having issues ZERO reason to ever have trust in purchasing a Line 6 product moving forward. Normally a business will engage a customer with a problem, not tell them they are S#!^ out of luck :) 

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Not meant to be humor, just an analogy. 

Didn't want him wasting time and energy on search. 

 

Having worked on a number of those, I know at what point, when it's time to let it go. 

And I'm not a tech that gives in, yet I know when it's time to fish or cut bait, as the saying goes. 

 

If there's a unit on eBay to use, or take parts from, then that's an option. Hope that works. 

 

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Yeah, I'm the shmuck one who laughed in this case, and to me the original poster's plight was NOT funny, but the Superman riff was funny. I don't know . . . I tend to enjoy life and laugh a lot though (I rarely get invited to funerals. :-(  ), and the whole Zack Snyder version of Superman that basically leveled all of Metropolis to try and save it is still, to me, such a painfully funny bad moment in cinematic history that psarkissian's comment reminded me of it and made me laugh.

 

I really feel for jefflisboa and hope he can find a workable solution. That's my honest to God opinion there. I'll admit, that when you compare the old school way of doing guitar (tube amps, Stratocasters, analog pedals) a nine year old device just doesn't seem that ancient, and for a guitar world used to tinkering and keeping guitars and amps around for decades a device that dies before it hits ten years old is jarring. So there is merit in that perspective.

 

However, multi effects boards share A LOT more in common with their tech cousins than they do the simplistic circuits and tube amps of yesteryear. Asking for Line 6 to service a discontinued almost ten years old tech product is a lot like if I asked Sony to service a PlayStation portable, or HTC to service my HTC Dream. You MIGHT be able to get Apple to do a few things with the debut Iphone or Ipad . . .  but certainly not much beyond a battery replacement. Asking Samsung to service an old plasma TV is going to be a straight up no.

 

I'm not even saying that in a fair world it should be this way. I'm only saying as a consumer I recognize that there are a lot of reasons why it is that way and I have to navigate that reality in the best way possible.  The best I can always hope to do is to support the companies that create the most reliable long lasting products and that give me the best consumer support when compared to their peers during any time period of that product.

 

All of you have to decide which company that is. Personally, I've been happy with my Line 6 experience. Now, If my HX Stomp broke today and I was up a creek I'd be pissed. FURIOUS even. Will I see it the same way if it breaks eight years from now?  Personally, I don't think I will. Each of you has to make that call though.

 

Good luck again jefflisboa. It looks like they go for about $180 to $250 used on eBay, and you can nab used HD500x's at that price, or new for maybe as low as $350, so I'd kind of recommend that route if money is the primary concern. Not that those costs aren't painful because, at least if you're comparable to me, that's a painful amount to particularly for something you already had.

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7 hours ago, Kilrahi said:

 Good luck again jefflisboa. It looks like they go for about $180 to $250 used on eBay, and you can nab used HD500x's at that price, or new for maybe as low as $350, so I'd kind of recommend that route if money is the primary concern. Not that those costs aren't painful because, at least if you're comparable to me, that's a painful amount to particularly for something you already had.

 

I bought HD500 for 180€ used and I think it was totally worth the money. I would recommend upgrading to (used or new) 500 or 500x too. 

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  • 3 months later...

I have a Pod HD 400 doing the same thing. First no sound, then crackly broken up sound then mysteriously will begin working. Never will I buy Line 6 again. I am 0 for 2 with their stuff. Had a Floor Pod + that began smoking and french fried the IC chip and circuit board

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  • 4 months later...

Volume failure or if you need to wait for 10, 20 minutes to your HD300 show some sound or effect, the problem is in the pre-amplifier of the guitar input. First thing to do is remove the metallic shield that cover the connector and the circuit of the preamplifier. So, you must remove the four electrolitic capacitors (pictures atached), and replace-it by new ones. Chean the place with alchool. You probably will see some leaking or rust signals there. Dry the place before replace the capacitors. As old this device is, more corrosion you will see.

line6_1.jpg

line6_2.jpg

line6_3.jpg

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On 10/15/2019 at 4:25 PM, vanroboli said:

Volume failure or if you need to wait for 10, 20 minutes to your HD300 show some sound or effect, the problem is in the pre-amplifier of the guitar input. First thing to do is remove the metallic shield that cover the connector and the circuit of the preamplifier. So, you must remove the four electrolitic capacitors (pictures atached), and replace-it by new ones. Chean the place with alchool. You probably will see some leaking or rust signals there. Dry the place before replace the capacitors. As old this device is, more corrosion you will see.

line6_1.jpg

line6_2.jpg

line6_3.jpg

 

 

Value of capacitors?

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On 2/23/2020 at 7:48 PM, diegoteta said:

Value of capacitors?

 

Those shown in photo are 16V 10uF aluminium electrolytic smd chip capacitors

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-16V-10UF-SMD-chip-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitor-4x5mm/291539738493?hash=item43e11f5f7d:g:X8wAAOSwgQ9VzhLn

 

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

All about POD HD500/X

help and useful tips

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  • 3 months later...
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Just to add a bit more information to the topic of debugging this input problem...

 

I spent some time working on a HD 400 recently (same guitar input circuitry). I attempted replacing the four caps mentioned above and also the opamp (U8). Neither solved the problem for me, so I did a bit more investigation and found that the input to the opamp from the guitar (through R58) was sitting at around -5.5 volts. After reverse engineering the circuit a bit more, this seemed to be caused by D31 - the high side (+7.5V) diode wasn't engaged and the voltage on the middle pin was almost the same as the low side (around -7V). I didn't have a replacement on hand, so I said a prayer and attempted just reflowing each of its pins. That seems to have fixed the input for me, works good as new now.

 

Also note, the only difference in the input circuits between HD 300 and 400 that I could see was that the component designators change. In the above, I'm referring to the HD 300 designators.

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  • 4 weeks later...
10 hours ago, naeem4rush said:

in this motherboard locate place R120 what is the ic number because it is damage by rust .. i need the chip number to find ?

 

On the HD400 (which has the same layout for the headphone input circuit that R120 is attached to), this part has "4241103E" written on it - I believe it is this digital pot: https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/22059b-46028.pdf

 

I think it is quite safe to say it will be the same part on the HD300.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all, I just fixed my hd300 with these symptoms definitively, as has previously been mentioned and shown in these great photos ,the problem is very close to D3 under the metal input jack shield . I Repaced the 4x 10uf caps and thought all was well but after a week  the same problem occured again .There were  too many false positives .Eventually I got some freeze it spray and after shielding  areas with kapton tape and cooling  and reheating components one by one  I got it to cycle the exact fault .even under the microscope all looked ok  I resoldered with liquid flux all the U8(072 op amp) and D3 legs and straight away all was well even after freezing and heating again . So it was a thermal expansion  fracture of solder legs problem  No new parts needed! Thanks to ALL here that made this fix possible , Great community. and Good luck to the next person who finds this thread

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  • 1 month later...

Getting the metaI shield off is the worse bit ,it is in two parts, I left it off until the fix was well  proven  . I would NOT remove the caps , just systematicly reflow each leg of all components in the vicinity, make sure you use liquid "no clean" flux  and a nice needle point iron, hot air is too hit and miss. If you want to replace any surface mount can caps (no need) twist them with pliers and they snap off niceley ,do not attempt to desolder as the solder pads will be damaged or rip off the board. I think the cause of the fault is that it is easy for  input jack plug put direct leverage stress on the board with use and abuse,  maybe 90degree jacks plugs would stop this in future. Good luck ,let us know how you get on .

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