POD HD 300 problem

[ben_sparkyspark]

Ok, so I had begun the process last week prior to your reply. Here's how it went.

 

I attempted to pull the shield off for about 30 mins with no luck. I eventually found that you have to 'prise' the shield off while heating the tabs, but individually. I didn't bother about damaging this as it can be easily bent back into shape.

Once this came off I wasn't sure where to start so I simply re-soldered each leg (8 of them) of the OP amp and also the D3 legs. Upon close inspection I realised that the legs may not have had enough solder so I attempted to add more solder. To others: DONT do this without a way to ensure only a SMALL amount is added. I accidentally added too much and all three legs on one side joined. My heart sank as I watched hundreds of dollars go down the drain. I got out the flux and attempted to suck all the solder off. Whilst doing this, I managed to melt the whole top of the plastic on the OP Amp chip as well as the D3 legs.

I did the best I could to salvage what I could and add bits of solder to random parts of the board. The pads on the silicon board were all destroyed and I believed it was all over.

I turned it all on (upside down and with cover off and turned it on). I strummed and nothing. I then moved my hand toward the pedal board and the sound would come back to my amazement. I couldn't figure out though, why when I moved my hand back the noise would subside and I'd lose all volume.

Then, I realised that because I had a work lamp flooding the entire area with light, the volume pedal was being affected. When I moved my hand toward it it was casting a shadow on the infrared proximity sensor under the volume pedal. So I put the backing plate back on and now it works better than it ever has. In fact I used to have a lot of grounding noise, now it's silent. Amazing. So even though the board is destroyed underneath, I must have managed to maintain a good solder connection on all 11 (8+3) legs.

Have used the pedal multiple days in a row and have had zero issues. No cycling issues etc.

 

Anyone else please comment if you end up resolving using marxman's, mine and others help! 

[neemoraes]

On 19/02/2021 at 20:38, ben_sparkyspark said:

Ok, comecei o processo na semana passada antes de sua resposta. Foi assim que aconteceu.

 

Tentei puxar o escudo por cerca de 30 minutos sem sorte. Eu acabei descobrindo que você tem que 'arrancar' o escudo enquanto aquece as abas, mas individualmente. Não me preocupei em danificá-lo, pois pode ser facilmente dobrado de volta à forma.

Depois que isso saiu, eu não tinha certeza por onde começar, então simplesmente re-soldar cada perna (8 delas) do amplificador OP e também as pernas D3. Após uma inspeção cuidadosa, percebi que as pernas podem não ter solda suficiente, então tentei adicionar mais solda. Para os outros: NÃO faça isso sem uma forma de garantir que apenas uma PEQUENA quantia seja adicionada. Eu acidentalmente adicionei muito e todas as três pernas de um lado se juntaram. Meu coração afundou ao ver centenas de dólares irem pelo ralo. Peguei o fluxo e tentei sugar toda a solda. Enquanto fazia isso, consegui derreter todo o topo do plástico do chip OP Amp, bem como as pernas do D3.

Fiz o melhor que pude para recuperar o que pude e adicionar pedaços de solda a partes aleatórias da placa. As almofadas da placa de silício estavam todas destruídas e eu acreditava que tudo estava acabado.

Liguei tudo (de cabeça para baixo e com a tampa desligada e liguei). Eu dedilhei e nada. Em seguida, movi minha mão em direção à pedaleira e o som voltaria para meu espanto. Eu não conseguia descobrir por que, quando movia minha mão para trás, o ruído diminuía e eu perdia todo o volume.

Então, percebi que, por ter uma lâmpada de trabalho inundando toda a área com luz, o pedal de volume estava sendo afetado. Quando movi minha mão em direção a ele, estava lançando uma sombra no sensor de proximidade infravermelho sob o pedal de volume. Então, coloquei a placa de apoio de volta e agora funciona melhor do que nunca. Na verdade eu costumava ter muito barulho de aterramento, agora está silencioso. Incrível. Portanto, embora a placa esteja destruída por baixo, devo ter conseguido manter uma boa conexão de solda em todas as 11 (8 + 3) pernas.

Usei o pedal vários dias seguidos e não teve nenhum problema. Sem problemas de ciclismo etc.

 

Mais alguém por favor comente se acabar resolvendo usando o marxman's, o meu e outros ajudem! 

Olá 

Estyou aqui com o mesmo problema de falta de som. Tudo funciona,mas sem sinal no input. 

Não sei se ainda está com sua POd HD 300, Mas seria possível fotos para ilustrar o procedimento que fez?

No aguardo e desde já agradeço.

[aarononeill]

On 2/20/2021 at 2:37 AM, marxman6 said:

Getting the metaI shield off is the worse bit

This is true. I ended up changing the soldering iron tip out for a wide one to better heat the larger solder joints.

 

On 1/6/2021 at 12:32 AM, marxman6 said:

No new parts needed!

Also true. AMAZING.

 

I just went and reflowed the solder on U8 and D3 joints by reheating with my soldering iron with the smallest tip I have and - IT WORKED! I'm really stoked. Thanks so much @marxman6, your work has saved my POD HD300 from landfill, which would not be right when it's otherwise working great. Also I can use it for an important track for commercial use.

 

To anyone else, give it a go. A steady hand and reasonable hot iron is all you need.

[erwinscat]

I'm here to confirm my podhd400 has been fixed by the "vanroboli" method. initially, I thought the problem was somewhere else and I removed the bios and tried to dump the memory to see if it was corrupted or not because there wasn't any sign of digital life in the system. after resoldering the bios, it start booting up without the clear sound and had the distinctive cutting out sound of a blown transistor and bad capacitor. so I start chasing the signal by injecting 1khz audio from iPhone + youtube 1khz video to input and soon realized signals wouldn't get through the guitar input but was no problem with MP3 input so I start looking more closely to those preamp areas actually under the microscope and despite checking with a powerful magnifier I missed the blue Cooper corrosion 1st time. so when I saw the corrosion I realized those little capacitors should have been leaked and the galvanic resistance between opamp legs plus damaged caps caused the issue. to fix the issue just removed the caps and replace them with new ones except 1 which I replaced with tantalum as I couldn't find more than 3 new caps in my parts... anyways I applied a generous amount of Rosine flux and reflowed every single part under the shield adding lots of rosins was important to draw out those Cooper salts from corrosion and after cleaning with alcohol and reassembling it fix and worked as good as new. honestly a little bit sad it fixed so quickly I was looking forward to troubleshooting and fixing this unit. this is my 3rd broken line6 board which I purchased from eBay to fix and all of them are fixed and working properly.

I'm a bit surprised how and why so many of these signal capacitors leaked and damaged prematurity as they are not subjected to any high voltage, high temperature, or lots of current going through them like switchmode power supply capacitors. I hope this information helps people who are interested to restore or fixing their podHd boards.

[pezvolador79]

This is awfull, don't you think... having to resolde components. I found out that when you enter  a certain mode on your line 6 hd 300 you can toggle the "z setting" and it sound riht again, but there is no way to record the change. 

[germantronics]

On 10/6/2022 at 11:29, erwinscat said:

 

Estoy aquí para confirmar que mi podhd400 ha sido arreglado por el " vanroboliasí que cuando vi la corrosión me di cuenta de que esos pequeños condensadores deberían haber tenido fugas y la resistencia galvánica entre las patas del opamp más las tapas dañadas causaron el problema. para solucionar el problema, simplemente quité las tapas y las reemplacé por otras nuevas, excepto 1 que reemplacé con tantalio ya que no pude encontrar más de 3 tapas nuevas en mis partes... de todos modos, apliqué una cantidad generosa de fundente Rosine y refluí cada una sola pieza debajo del escudo fue importante agregar muchas colofonias para extraer esas sales de Cooper de la corrosión y después de limpiar con alcohol y volver a ensamblarlo, lo arregló y funcionó como nuevo. Sinceramente, me entristeció un poco que se arreglara tan rápido. Tenía muchas ganas de solucionar el problema y arreglar esta unidad. este es mi tercer tablero line6 roto que compré en eBay para arreglarlo y todos están arreglados y funcionan correctamente.

Estoy un poco sorprendido de cómo y por qué tantos de estos capacitores de señal se filtraron y dañaron prematuramente, ya que no están sujetos a ningún voltaje alto, alta temperatura o mucha corriente que los atraviesa como capacitores de fuente de alimentación conmutada. Espero que esta información ayude a las personas interesadas en restaurar o arreglar sus tableros podHd.

me paso que al enchufar el pedal inyectando un generador de señales a la entrada y al medir en los pines 1 y 7 no se veia la onda en el osciloscopio y con el multitester en el pin 1 del IC U12 el opam 072C,me marcaba casi -10.9V y pin 7 me marcaba 11v y al pasar los segundos iba disminuyendo, cuando caia a -4 y 5v empezaba a sonar como si estuviera lejos y distorsionado, a medida que pasaba 1 min ya empezaba a escucharse mejor. Lo desenchufe y volvi a probar y esta vez funcionaba correctamente, lo desconectaba 20 min y al conectar nuevamente volvia al principio, que no se escuchaba y volvia al rato tal cual explico al comienzo. Mi Solucion fue cambiar el IC U12 072C y quedo ok.
finalmente medi con el osciloscopio en elpin 1 y 7 y ya estaba bajo su voltaje alrrededor de -400mV pin 1 y 200 mV pin 7, y esta vez si salia rapido la señal y audio de la onda senoidal al cargar el banco de la pedalera, en la cuarta foto podran ver ambas señales y pin 1 indica -0.420V (420mV). Espero haber ayudado amigos

 

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