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Why does the US version of the JTV-69 not have a two-way truss rod?  i.e. why can't I turn it counter-clockwise and forward bow the neck?  I assumed it was two-way, but the nut simply started coming off.

There is zero tension on the truss rod.  How difficult is it to install a 2-way truss-rod?  I love the feel of the neck.  

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13 hours ago, bpm_waldocaster said:

Why does the US version of the JTV-69 not have a two-way truss rod?  i.e. why can't I turn it counter-clockwise and forward bow the neck?  I assumed it was two-way, but the nut simply started coming off.

The neck I have was ref-retted, which is probably why it now has back-bow.  There is zero tension on the truss rod.  How difficult is it to install a 2-way truss-rod?  I love the feel of the neck.  It just needs a tiny tweek!

 

There was a discussion around here a while back in which the powers that be chimed in, indicating that all the JTV's do have a dual action truss rod. As handy as they are, there's still a limit to how far you can go in either direction, and it seems you've hit your relief limit. Since it's been re-fretted, I'm guessing you bought it used? If so, God only knows what was done to it, or how it was (or wasn't) maintained before you got it.

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What cruisinon2 said. Yeah, two-way rods.

Re-fretted?

Second guitar?

With a "W" prefix in the serial number?

 

" Since it's been re-fretted, I'm guessing you bought it used? If so, God only knows what was done to it, or how it was (or wasn't) maintained before you got it. "---

Service info for that guitar would be in your account when the guitar is registered.

 

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42 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

Service info for that guitar would be in your account when the guitar is registered.

 

 

Well that assumes that whatever work was done to the instrument, was done by you back at the Mothership. And with what little info has been shared here, there's no indication that that's the case. One can have a neck re-fretted anywhere on earth... so it's far from a guarantee that there'll be a record of anything whatsoever on your end. Buying used anything will forever be a crap-shoot.

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Yes. And they don't like me doing re-frets cause it takes too much time.

So I'm purposely not tooled for that. But I am tooled up to do other fret work.

So I'll work the frets or swap the neck, whatever it needs.

 

If it's done at a Line 6 authorized service, I can find a record for it. Daddy keeps an

eye on all his kitty-winks, makes certain they all get the TLC they need, as best as I

can keep track of.   ;)

 

But yeah, anyone else who doesn't have experience with these is a crap shoot.

Couple of owners with overly saline content in their sweat have had stainless steel re-fret jobs done. It works.

 

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I bought it used.  It was NOT a factory refret.  And, please keep in mind it is a US model, so it tightens from the body end (you have to take the neck off.)

  But, here's the deal:  if you have a two-way rod, it tightens to the right (stiffens back) and then as you go clockwise, it loosens, THEN starts tightening to impose forward bow.  This rod does NOT do that.   Go lefty-loosey, and it keeps getting more loose, then glides until the nut starts spinning off.  That is not how a two-way rod works.

So, either the US model does NOT have a two-way rod, or it makes me wonder if they replaced the rod?  Why would they do THAT? That's rhetorical.

As for the re-fret: the job is excellent.  

This wouldn't be the first time I've had a quarter-sawn neck that didn't do the limbo and go backward.  That "stability" of quarter-sawn sometimes imposes it's grain memory and becomes too stiff to reverse a backbow.  

 

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And, for the Line6 guys here:  why not PUBLISH the truss rod type in the ads and manuals?  It's not something that should have to be asked, and I am still convinced this one is one-way.

 

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5 hours ago, bpm_waldocaster said:

I bought it used.  It was NOT a factory refret.  And, please keep in mind it is a US model, so it tightens from the body end (you have to take the neck off.)

  But, here's the deal:  if you have a two-way rod, it tightens to the right (stiffens back) and then as you go clockwise, it loosens, THEN starts tightening to impose forward bow.  This rod does NOT do that.   Go lefty-loosey, and it keeps getting more loose, then glides until the nut starts spinning off.  That is not how a two-way rod works.

So, either the US model does NOT have a two-way rod, or it makes me wonder if they replaced the rod?  Why would they do THAT? That's rhetorical.

As for the re-fret: the job is excellent.  

This wouldn't be the first time I've had a quarter-sawn neck that didn't do the limbo and go backward.  That "stability" of quarter-sawn sometimes imposes it's grain memory and becomes too stiff to reverse a backbow.  

 

 

 

I'd be suspicious myself. I'd kinda doubt that the rod was replaced, though. That's major surgery...can that even be done without removing the fretboard?

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"... it tightens from the body end (you have to take the neck off. " --- Shouldn't have to take the neck off,

there's a cut-out on the pick-guard on US versions, for truss rod access.

 

" I bought it used.  It was NOT a factory refret. " --- Sounds about right,since we don't do full re-frets here.

Nice to know that the re-fret worked. Some out there are really good at that.

 

As for the problem with the rod, sounds like something is not right with it. Why not publish rod type?

Two way rod has been standard issue here since the original Variax guitars from 15+ years ago.

 

1) Does the pick guard have the cut-out for the truss rod access?

 

2) Look under the battery box, tell me what you see in the cavity.

 

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psarkissian:  Thanks for taking those questions.  I've attached images for your consideration.

 

There is a cutout in the guard for nut access, but it's not large enough actually navigate through with a hex wrench.  More of a peephole than a useful access hole.

 

Fretwork is "ok", but has required that I level, dress and polish them.  It plays much better now,  as there were high frets in places.

 

I agree, then, that "something must be wrong."  It ranges in motion from tight position (clockwise turns to achieve moderate resistance) to UNSCREWED from rod with counterclockwise motion.

 

Removed battery box as requested (see pics)

 

Again, I really appreciate your questions.  Sounds like I got a bit snowed by the seller.  Since there was a refret, Perhaps the luthier removed the fretboard and changed out the truss rod.  

That makes no sense to me, but I would welcome any advice or information that can help.  Also, if you need a video of the rod action, I can provide that.  It simply tightens to the right, and loosens to the left until the nut threads off the rod.

body back contour.jpg

front headstock.jpg

back headstock.jpg

truss access.jpg

battery box.jpg

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Yep, looks like a US body with a US neck,... good. Definitely a US body, the way the

back is contoured and markings in the battery cavity are the tells.

 

Should have a two-way rod in it, since that's all we use. 

 

That rod cut-out is a bit small, it shouldn't be. But it looks like a 2012 batch of guitars.

The nut shouldn't come off the rod. Sounds like the rod "was" changed out. That would be a no-no on their part.

They should've left that alone. Maybe got rods mixed during the work and put the wrong one in by mistake?

 

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That sounds about like my luck, sir! :-)  To put, say, a StewMac two-way rod in, I'd need to pop the fretboard, correct?  I shouldn't have to route more though if it's already routed for a two way, or is that NOT correct?

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Yes, would need to pull up the fret board.

Correct, shouldn't need to re-router anything, it's a standard two-way rod size that fits most guitars.

 

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