sh4rkbyt31 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 After losing a $3,000 computer back in 2004 I learned my lesson. A lightning bolt hit right outside my apartment window while I was at work one day blowing out ALL of my electronics including computer, TV, Stereo, Game Console, Microwave, fish tank lights and pump (saltwater reef tank). And left me with about 25-30 gallons of saltwater on my floor. After that hit, I've been saved at least 2x by surge protectors for my electronics. So just a heads up as I can't afford to replace my HX Floor after the next storm lol. You can chance it if you like but it's a cheap investment versus the replacement cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brue58ski Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 I learned my lesson the same way. The hard way. Was at a venue with "dirty" AC. Only lost a fuse that day thank goodness. Sorry about your misfortune. That truly, really, is the definition of, sucks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosskoss Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 I've been thinking of one with built in noise suppression (I prefer this versus Noise gate). I'm trying to figure out the differences between these - anyone know? Furman AC-215A Power Conditioner | Sweetwater Furman M-8x2 8 Outlet Power Conditioner | Sweetwater Furman SS-6B 6-outlet Pro Surge Suppressor Strip | Sweetwater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sh4rkbyt31 Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 I'm not up on this too much since I'm not an electrician but I know with computers at least, a power conditioner changes the wave type of incoming electric I believe to make it more palatable and safer for delicate electronics. You'd have to read up on sine waves etc. there is a difference. High dollar computer power supply backups (at least the good quality ones) had a built in power conditioner/surge protection and a limited amount of battery backup power, enough so your system wouldn't crash in the middle of a job giving you enough time to safely shutdown. They weren't really made for actually powering the computer for any extended period of time. I guess it depends on your budget? If it were for home use I'd go with the first one. If it was for home/club use I'd probably go with the last one. Unfortunately, they don't give you the specs for joules for any of them. Joules determines how much energy it absorbs before it fails which is also something to keep in mind. I wouldn't buy anything less than 2,000 joules for electronics components. The lower the joules of course the lower the price at the sacrifice of reaction time and lower energy absorption. A Sweetwater Rep. might be able to find that out for you if you call? I would also tell them to add the joules number in their spec descriptions and if they don't have them they should call the manufacturer to find out! That's about all I know. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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