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Pod Hd500x... The Worst Pedalboard Into The Amp?!?!?


nico74
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hi all, i used in the past a pod 2.0, m13, flextone II and flextone III.

now i boght a new pod hd500x,

i connected my headphones and it sounds good!

i connected on my DAW and it sounds good!

so yesterday i went in my rehearsal room and i connected the pod hd500x into the amp, i create a true bypass sound using an A/B stomp, so the sound of the guitar into the pod getted into the amp was 95% real...as the guitar directly into the amp. (using no simulation no effects, just +5 db on pod mixer.)

 

"ok... i'm starting to goooo " i thinked 

 

but when choose the first distortion simulation, i found the worst sound i ever heard.

there is no way to play in front of the amp  (or power amp) and obtain a good sound.

the distortion simlation are very ... very... compressed, too much gained, too much artificial, than using the pod into a mixer/PA system!

i tried all the 5 possibility in the system menù, direct, combo fron, combo pwr amp, stack front and stack pwr amp...

 

particularly the combo front and stack front give me a very very poor sound, even adjust the low-hig-mid focus parameters, the clean sounds good, the distortions toooo gained and false.

 

 

i'm very confused, i'd like to re-send the pod to the shop and give my money back. but i like all the fx features, and the pedalboard functions.

 

Someone of you have this problem?

Someone of you have found a way to play it better?

 

please let me know

 

Nico

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If you are sending a PodHD amp sim into the front of a guitar amp you are not going to get a good sound.

 

Plugging into the front of a guitar amp, the instrument input jack, means you are sending the Pod's simulated pre amp, power amp and speaker cab simulation through your guitar amps real preamp, power amp and speaker cab...

 

You can send effects with the Pod's amp and cab simulation turned off.

 

Or find an amp the has an effects loop so you can use what is known as the 4 cable method and really have fun.

Or get a powered PA floor monitor.

 

But a guitar amp that only has an instrument input is not a good match for the Pod if you want to use its amp and cab simulations....

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But a guitar amp that only has an instrument input is not a good match for the Pod if you want to use its amp and cab simulations....

 

That's not necessarily true. The "correct" output settings may or may not sound good, depending on what's in the rest of the rig, the guitar he's using, and his fingers. The combo/front, stack/front, stack/power amp output settings are just applying different EQ to the signal anyway...there's no way that these settings can be expected to work with every amp out there. More than a few of us on here use the studio/direct output, some with cab sims, some without...running into all sorts of amp set-ups (various combos, power amp/cab rigs, etc), with good results. It's been discussed in several other threads. As what sounds "good" is entirely subjective, there really is no "right" or "wrong" way to set things up.

 

The 500X just isn't a "plug it in and play" amp. Needs work to get it to sound the way you want it.

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I assume you have your guitar connected to GUITAR in on the HD500X and you are taking your output from either the L/MONO or R/MONO jacks on the back - is that correct?

Have you also got the 1/4" inch OUT switch on the front face of the HD500X next to expression pedal set to AMP?   Yes? If that is all true then the basic connections are correct.

 

Have you also got the TONE controls on your amp set to a FLAT value?  ie: bass/middle/treble all at half way - or middle on max and bass and treble at zero.  

 

As stated above by the other forum members the HD500X is not a simple plug and play box like a stomp box.  You have to spend some time setting it up for your particular environment, with your gear for your use.

 

As you are using it in front of an amp, then treat it like a pedal board to get some basic sounds set up.   Don't use the amp sims or cabs.  Just use fx blocks to produce a sound you like.  I suggest you start with some simple fx and adjust the parameters until you can get it sounding like you what.   If you are looking for overdrive then pick just one of the OD models and adjust that.   Try this with output mode set to COMBO FRONT first if you have a combo amp or STACK FRONT if you are using a head/cab.  They are the correct starting points as they allow you to tweak the sound to compensate for the colouring of your amps own TONE controls.  If you cannot get these to sound correct, then try the COMBO or STACK power settings - these are almost the same but with the ability to tweak the eq, and if you are still not happy then try the STUDIO/DIRECT mode which will be what you were hearing through your headphones.

When you have identified the output mode that is closest to what you want then stick with it and fine tune your chosen fx to get it to sound just right to you.   Once you are happy, then move on and try some other fx and tweak them to what you need.  Do one at a time and once you have a few that you are happy with, then you can build some patches that use those fx.

 

Once you have the fx nailed - then you may want to experiment with the AMP models but these will be much harder to make sound right because they are designed to go either direct to a mixer or direct to a power amp - so they will not sound great going into an amp's preamp via the instrument input - BUT you may be able to adjust the controls to get sounds that you like.

 

Read MEAMBOBBO's guide that jandrio pointed you at, and also look up HD500 ROUTING SCHEMATICS in this forum for all you need to know about routing paths.   Good luck on your search for your tone!   

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If you are sending a PodHD amp sim into the front of a guitar amp you are not going to get a good sound.

 

Plugging into the front of a guitar amp, the instrument input jack, means you are sending the Pod's simulated pre amp, power amp and speaker cab simulation through your guitar amps real preamp, power amp and speaker cab...

 

You can send effects with the Pod's amp and cab simulation turned off.

 

Or find an amp the has an effects loop so you can use what is known as the 4 cable method and really have fun.

Or get a powered PA floor monitor.

 

But a guitar amp that only has an instrument input is not a good match for the Pod if you want to use its amp and cab simulations....

hi, aggravation,

as i wrote before, i used no amp simulation, so...no cab no preamp...

i started with the 8 fx block empty and i added 1 distortion pedal at time!

sincerely the overdrive are a bit good, but distortion are just artificial.

i'm an old user of pod family, i used pod 2.0 for 15 years, flextone II and III.

the pod 2.0 somethime sounds very artificial in front on the amp, bt it is create more than 15 years agò!

but i will try  on a PA floor monitor before re-send  it to the vendor

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I assume you have your guitar connected to GUITAR in on the HD500X and you are taking your output from either the L/MONO or R/MONO jacks on the back - is that correct?

Have you also got the 1/4" inch OUT switch on the front face of the HD500X next to expression pedal set to AMP?   Yes? If that is all true then the basic connections are correct.

 

Have you also got the TONE controls on your amp set to a FLAT value?  ie: bass/middle/treble all at half way - or middle on max and bass and treble at zero.  

 

As stated above by the other forum members the HD500X is not a simple plug and play box like a stomp box.  You have to spend some time setting it up for your particular environment, with your gear for your use.

 

As you are using it in front of an amp, then treat it like a pedal board to get some basic sounds set up.   Don't use the amp sims or cabs.  Just use fx blocks to produce a sound you like.  I suggest you start with some simple fx and adjust the parameters until you can get it sounding like you what.   If you are looking for overdrive then pick just one of the OD models and adjust that.   Try this with output mode set to COMBO FRONT first if you have a combo amp or STACK FRONT if you are using a head/cab.  They are the correct starting points as they allow you to tweak the sound to compensate for the colouring of your amps own TONE controls.  If you cannot get these to sound correct, then try the COMBO or STACK power settings - these are almost the same but with the ability to tweak the eq, and if you are still not happy then try the STUDIO/DIRECT mode which will be what you were hearing through your headphones.

When you have identified the output mode that is closest to what you want then stick with it and fine tune your chosen fx to get it to sound just right to you.   Once you are happy, then move on and try some other fx and tweak them to what you need.  Do one at a time and once you have a few that you are happy with, then you can build some patches that use those fx.

 

Once you have the fx nailed - then you may want to experiment with the AMP models but these will be much harder to make sound right because they are designed to go either direct to a mixer or direct to a power amp - so they will not sound great going into an amp's preamp via the instrument input - BUT you may be able to adjust the controls to get sounds that you like.

 

Read MEAMBOBBO's guide that jandrio pointed you at, and also look up HD500 ROUTING SCHEMATICS in this forum for all you need to know about routing paths.   Good luck on your search for your tone!   

 

hi edstar1960,

 

of course, i've tryed all the possibility you have wrote.

of course the switch is at aMP position... but i tryed all, line position, studio direct, combo front, stack front, combo and stack power amp.

but nothing.... just an ultra metal sound... even using the rat (classic distortion) with drive at 50%

all distortion simulation sounds ULTRA/BLACK/DEATH METAL!!!

and all this, using no amp sim!!!

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hi edstar1960,

 

of course, i've tryed all the possibility you have wrote.

of course the switch is at aMP position... but i tryed all, line position, studio direct, combo front, stack front, combo and stack power amp.

but nothing.... just an ultra metal sound... even using the rat (classic distortion) with drive at 50%

all distortion simulation sounds ULTRA/BLACK/DEATH METAL!!!

and all this, using no amp sim!!!

 

It sounds like you are over driving the input to your amp.     I suggest you try on the standard settings for your amp to start with.      Adjust the output gain of the chosen distortion model and also the MASTER VOLUME of the HD500X, and leave the mixer settings with 0db.  

 

If things are still sounding bad then try setting your INPUT 1 to GUITAR and INPUT 2 to VARIAX (default is SAME).  This will lower your input guitar signal by 6db which may be a better match for the input to the distortion fx block.  

You can also try adjusting the input impedance setting for guitar in the SETTINGS menu - it is usually at AUTO which is best because it should match the impedance of first fx block model, but you can manually select a different value to affect input guitar impedance.

 

Hope that helps.

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If you're using the HD500X for effects only into the front of an amp, Studio Direct is the output mode you want.

 

As far as the RAT model sounding bad, that's not entirely surprising to me, especially with the drive at 50%. Try lowering the drive and turning up the output.

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It sounds like you are over driving the input to your amp.     I suggest you try on the standard settings for your amp to start with.      Adjust the output gain of the chosen distortion model and also the MASTER VOLUME of the HD500X, and leave the mixer settings with 0db.  

 

If things are still sounding bad then try setting your INPUT 1 to GUITAR and INPUT 2 to VARIAX (default is SAME).  This will lower your input guitar signal by 6db which may be a better match for the input to the distortion fx block.  

You can also try adjusting the input impedance setting for guitar in the SETTINGS menu - it is usually at AUTO which is best because it should match the impedance of first fx block model, but you can manually select a different value to affect input guitar impedance.

 

Hope that helps.

i'm sure not overdriving the amp, i use an A/B split, and the volume, the clarity, the sound of the guitar is the same using guitar>amp or guitar>pod>amp (adding +6db into the pod mixer)

 

i tried all, all setup possible, and remember that into mixer or computer it sounds good!

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i'm sure not overdriving the amp, i use an A/B split, and the volume, the clarity, the sound of the guitar is the same using guitar>amp or guitar>pod>amp (adding +6db into the pod mixer)

 

i tried all, all setup possible, and remember that into mixer or computer it sounds good!

 

Well that leaves two possibilities:

1) There's something wrong with the amp, and not the Pod

 

or

 

2) The combo of the Pod and your particular amp just isn't working, or might require a little extra work to nail down a set up that sounds good. I tend to think that this is the case. As much as I like the 500X, it's not the easiest thing to work with...almost too many options sometimes. I have also found it harder to get a goodsound through my amp, as compared to headphones. In fact, I have two totally separate banks of patches...one for the cans, and another for my rig.

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If you're using the HD500X for effects only into the front of an amp, Studio Direct is the output mode you want.

 

As far as the RAT model sounding bad, that's not entirely surprising to me, especially with the drive at 50%. Try lowering the drive and turning up the output.

tried all distortion models! tooooooo compressed

tried all output mode... with clean sounds the studio direct seems to be the right choice, but if i switch on a virtual distortion stomp, i obtain a only  fuzzy sounds or ultra gained

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I dont think this will be a total solution but you might find some relief...

I've been experimenting with the Tube Echo Platter in front of amp models. But not for echo, for the drive. Lots of my favorite old school players used different tube echo machines into the front of big loud Marshalls and Vox, etc. even when they weren't trying to get the echo effect because it gave a little bit of tube drive to the sound hitting the preamp.

 

Put just the Echo Platter delay in front of your amp, Time set all the way down (20%) Mix at 50% Drive...start at 50% and see if that is too much. It has a lot of high end to it so that may become an issue but see what you think.

 

Another one is, in the Pre-EQ category of effects is the Vintage Pre, I usually put it at the end of the signal chain for warming up a sound with settings in the 30-60 % range on both parameters but you can also use it in front of an amp to drive it some if you don't set it too high.

 

Then one more. In the Dyn section of effects, the Boost Comp, it has a drive parameter...try that.

 

Personally I think the Line6 distortions and overdrives are not very good. They are troublesome to dial in and that has always been my experience from the M9 M13 and all Pod's. And that goes for in front of real amps or the models. I'd say the HD's Tubescreamer is their best effort, good in fact...but I'm so bored with that sound I hate it too even though it is acurate and behaves better than the rest.

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Warning: Includes opinions!

 

I believe it is very difficult to make models of distortion pedals. And i believe one can model just a slide from an amp-pedal pair. Not the whole sound - and ecspecially not the dynamic - range they can produce. That's why using models like real pedals does not neccessarily lead to good result (but amp models should be used ecxactly like real amps with realistic volume levels if possible). What we need to do is learn the ways of modeling and use them more like things they really are: models, inspired by some real life item. Like in cooking (if we can cook) we always taste our new spices before adding them. Test, what our models do by adding them one by one on your cleans and you'll get the idea. Also Line6 has (usually) given wide range of tone for each variable. Instead of being like in range of 0 - 10, they seem to be like -5 - 15. Those should be tweaked click by click instead of trying just full or none options.

 

Patience...

 

With DT i get my main distortion from amp model and only flavour it with pedal models. Sometimes the amp model is enough by itself.

 

And with amp (Fender blackfaceish boutique thingy. I use just 2 now to keep things simple enough) i use guitar input and i usually use a pair of distortions. In most settings there are screamer/tube drive or tube drive/cassic distortion. The trick is not to crank one of them too heavily. Screamer is usually just clean boost with gain 0 - 10%. I even use AC-30 model in one setting and it moves that blacface very close to Vox. Normally i don't use amp models at all with the amp.

 

I started tweaking - as i always do - from empty new tone patch. Adding one part at the time (of course first i've set up HD-amp pair as we always have to do when changing to a new amp), many times just trying different things. HD's master volume always 100%. Amps volume as is will be when in action. Amp tweaked to make the cleans by itself. In neutral way thou.

 

Hmm...

 

I don't know, if there is possibility to change effect presets so that every time i add an effect, it comes in more ready for my sounds. Effects (and amp models) come in way too cranked, if asked me. Turning everything down is usually the first thing to do. That could ease up some starting problems people have.

 

I don't think HD and amp - if not in need of service - can't work together. One just has to match them together first. That may be difficult in some cases due gazillions of options.

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i'm sure not overdriving the amp, i use an A/B split, and the volume, the clarity, the sound of the guitar is the same using guitar>amp or guitar>pod>amp (adding +6db into the pod mixer)

 

i tried all, all setup possible, and remember that into mixer or computer it sounds good!

 

I understand that you are not overdriving the amp with your clean guitar signal - but when you are using one of the distortion fx blocks and getting a fizzy sound that sounds like you may be overdriving the fx and/or the amp.  You can adjust the level hitting the fx block by ensuring INPUT 1 and INPUT 2 are different, and you can adjust how much effect is hitting the amp by turning down the amount of the effect and also the output gain from the fx.

 

If you like the sound of the fx running through an amp model on headphones or direct into your computer then you should be able to tweak them to sound good as stand alone fx in front of your amp.     

 

I assume your amp sounds good if you use a stand a lone distortion stomp box?

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I dont think this will be a total solution but you might find some relief...

I've been experimenting with the Tube Echo Platter in front of amp models. But not for echo, for the drive. Lots of my favorite old school players used different tube echo machines into the front of big loud Marshalls and Vox, etc. even when they weren't trying to get the echo effect because it gave a little bit of tube drive to the sound hitting the preamp.

 

Put just the Echo Platter delay in front of your amp, Time set all the way down (20%) Mix at 50% Drive...start at 50% and see if that is too much. It has a lot of high end to it so that may become an issue but see what you think.

 

Another one is, in the Pre-EQ category of effects is the Vintage Pre, I usually put it at the end of the signal chain for warming up a sound with settings in the 30-60 % range on both parameters but you can also use it in front of an amp to drive it some if you don't set it too high.

 

Then one more. In the Dyn section of effects, the Boost Comp, it has a drive parameter...try that.

 

Personally I think the Line6 distortions and overdrives are not very good. They are troublesome to dial in and that has always been my experience from the M9 M13 and all Pod's. And that goes for in front of real amps or the models. I'd say the HD's Tubescreamer is their best effort, good in fact...but I'm so bored with that sound I hate it too even though it is acurate and behaves better than the rest.

 

 

Warning: Includes opinions!

 

I believe it is very difficult to make models of distortion pedals. And i believe one can model just a slide from an amp-pedal pair. Not the whole sound - and ecspecially not the dynamic - range they can produce. That's why using models like real pedals does not neccessarily lead to good result (but amp models should be used ecxactly like real amps with realistic volume levels if possible). What we need to do is learn the ways of modeling and use them more like things they really are: models, inspired by some real life item. Like in cooking (if we can cook) we always taste our new spices before adding them. Test, what our models do by adding them one by one on your cleans and you'll get the idea. Also Line6 has (usually) given wide range of tone for each variable. Instead of being like in range of 0 - 10, they seem to be like -5 - 15. Those should be tweaked click by click instead of trying just full or none options.

 

Patience...

 

With DT i get my main distortion from amp model and only flavour it with pedal models. Sometimes the amp model is enough by itself.

 

And with amp (Fender blackfaceish boutique thingy. I use just 2 now to keep things simple enough) i use guitar input and i usually use a pair of distortions. In most settings there are screamer/tube drive or tube drive/cassic distortion. The trick is not to crank one of them too heavily. Screamer is usually just clean boost with gain 0 - 10%. I even use AC-30 model in one setting and it moves that blacface very close to Vox. Normally i don't use amp models at all with the amp.

 

I started tweaking - as i always do - from empty new tone patch. Adding one part at the time (of course first i've set up HD-amp pair as we always have to do when changing to a new amp), many times just trying different things. HD's master volume always 100%. Amps volume as is will be when in action. Amp tweaked to make the cleans by itself. In neutral way thou.

 

Hmm...

 

I don't know, if there is possibility to change effect presets so that every time i add an effect, it comes in more ready for my sounds. Effects (and amp models) come in way too cranked, if asked me. Turning everything down is usually the first thing to do. That could ease up some starting problems people have.

 

I don't think HD and amp - if not in need of service - can't work together. One just has to match them together first. That may be difficult in some cases due gazillions of options.

 

ok ... I was just waiting for this!

-I think the same of Aggravation: the distortions of line 6 are not very good!

-and i think as WaubinHood: HD and AMP can't Work togheter.

 

my amp sounds perfectly with stompboxes into it, but not with the distortions of pod

this is true also with my pod 1.0 (upgraded to 2.0) in fact i always used it on a rocktron velocity 120 and 2 rocktron speakers

very trasparent power amp, ....but i imagine that  with new technology the things could be changed!

 

so i i believe the topic is solved!

thank to all of you for the patience (and sorry for my little english)

 

But if someone other of you has some good ideas.... i'm here! :)

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I wasn't impressed with the Line6 Distortions into my Marshall JCM900 when I tried the 4cm method.  They sounded decent for high gain but no matter how I tweaked them it was too much compression until they were almost turned off.  Which at very high volumes led to feedback and squeel.  I ended up not using any of the Line6 Distortions, didn't need anymore distortion anyway.  But I will give high marks to Line6 for their compressors.

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  • 2 weeks later...
all distortion simulation sounds ULTRA/BLACK/DEATH METAL!!!

 

I'm starting to find this, it't not noticeable when I play a power chord but if I hit the low E string (tuned to D) and I let it ring and then arpeggiate by playing A and D strings the distortion from the ringing E string emits a high pitch fizz that I can't seem to get rid of.  Even when I only have a New Tone with only one amp or one pedal, the moment I get any gain there is also accompanying fizz.

 

Not sure if it's my amp speaker but cleans are very nice.

 

s

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I'm starting to find this, it't not noticeable when I play a power chord but if I hit the low E string (tuned to D) and I let it ring and then arpeggiate by playing A and D strings the distortion from the ringing E string emits a high pitch fizz that I can't seem to get rid of.  Even when I only have a New Tone with only one amp or one pedal, the moment I get any gain there is also accompanying fizz.

 

Not sure if it's my amp speaker but cleans are very nice.

 

s

I'm starting to find this, it't not noticeable when I play a power chord but if I hit the low E string (tuned to D) and I let it ring and then arpeggiate by playing A and D strings the distortion from the ringing E string emits a high pitch fizz that I can't seem to get rid of.  Even when I only have a New Tone with only one amp or one pedal, the moment I get any gain there is also accompanying fizz.

 

Not sure if it's my amp speaker but cleans are very nice.

 

s

Ok friends... I send the pod hd500x back to the vendor! So (for me) the topic is closed unsolved. Goodbye to line6.

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Ok friends... I send the pod hd500x back to the vendor! So (for me) the topic is closed unsolved. Goodbye to line6.

 

Sorry to see it unsolved.

 

Did you get another effects board?

 

Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution?

 

s

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no offense intended but some folks just can't make it work no matter what... I don't understand because I have none of these issues.  I don't know if it is in the approach to how you build patches or trying to force the gear to do something it wasn't meant to do, physical setup problems or what...

 

oh well, there's always new stuff to buy and complain about!  LOL...

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no offense intended but some folks just can't make it work no matter what... I don't understand because I have none of these issues.  I don't know if it is in the approach to how you build patches or trying to force the gear to do something it wasn't meant to do, physical setup problems or what...

 

oh well, there's always new stuff to buy and complain about!  LOL...

 

That's just it...there is no universal fit for any piece of gear. I wanted a cherry red, flame-top Les Paul forever. Bought one...loved the look, loved the sound, but it never felt right. Had it for 6 months and sold it. Don't know what it is, but they just don't feel comfortable to me. Just couldn't get used to it...played Strats for too many years I guess. Sounded like I was playing with a broken hand. I've made my peace with it... :(

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no offense intended but some folks just can't make it work no matter what... I don't understand because I have none of these issues.  I don't know if it is in the approach to how you build patches or trying to force the gear to do something it wasn't meant to do, physical setup problems or what...

 

Yeah, I really want to make it work though.  I'm also thinking externally, it could be the speaker, amp, hot pick ups, even my playing style. For now I'll look for another effect south of clean, to play arpeggiated chords I guess.

 

s

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That's just it...there is no universal fit for any piece of gear. I wanted a cherry red, flame-top Les Paul forever. Bought one...loved the look, loved the sound, but it never felt right. 

 

You could try one with a different neck radius?  I agree different guitars have different scales to their frets, neck radii, weight, etc.  I'm not liking the new breed, Schecters, ESP's, etc. they feel too light, almost like the wood is air filled ... or not even wood, lol.

 

s

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After further experimenting tonight I've solved it. 

 

I get a good clean amp sound in one path, then I split it into two paths and place a distortion pedal(s) in the other path.  I can then control the gain by setting the drive, output, etc. and adjust the mixer volumes and pan levels of each path.

 

This way I'm getting a good clean sound punching through with as much or in this case, as little gain as I want.  If I put a high gain amp in the other path however it just floods it with too much fizzy gain.

 

s

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That's just it...there is no universal fit for any piece of gear. I wanted a cherry red, flame-top Les Paul forever. Bought one...loved the look, loved the sound, but it never felt right. Had it for 6 months and sold it. Don't know what it is, but they just don't feel comfortable to me. Just couldn't get used to it...played Strats for too many years I guess. Sounded like I was playing with a broken hand. I've made my peace with it... :(

Haha I feel exactly that way about Strats. I want soooo bad to enjoy playing one, but in the end I always feel like I'm fighting against it. I pick up a Les Paul and bam, I'm on top of the world. Must be why there are so many different guitar makers out there eh?
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Haha I feel exactly that way about Strats. I want soooo bad to enjoy playing one, but in the end I always feel like I'm fighting against it.

 

Fender Strats? Have you ever owned one though?  They're definitely different but you get used to it, the HM Strat is a different beast altogether.

 

s

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Sounds to me like your describing the ultimate bane of digital modelling.

That fizz you mention CAN be reduced but not completely removed and

is mostly a limitation of the algorithms. I'm VERY picky when it comes to

amps and distortions and I see this deficiency re-occurring in many other

MFX models manufacturers have made, not just Line6.

All you can do is build a patch as best as you can with each FX block gains

& volumes set correctly and get your cabling in order, its the best you can do.

Anyone that claims perfection with distortion and amp algorithms is a liar.

That's assuming you've tried everything else to no avail, of course.

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What a shame, the OP was so quick to come to the conclusion that it ain't right it seems almost futile to say anything else, lol. I have such a great time with all my Line 6 devices that I guess it really only comes down to this quote "I can only speak for myself". Then again, I have so much more patience than many many people. Like they say "One man's trash is another man's treasure".

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Sounds to me like you're describing the ultimate bane of digital modelling.

That fizz you mention CAN be reduced but not completely removed

 

Thanks for clearing this up, I was going nuts wondering where I'm going wrong.

 

Our other guitarist has a Boss and he gets some good sounds, I suspect it's also his amp which is superior to mine. I've yet to try plugging the POD into that to compare I thought I'd try fixing up my sound on my own amp first.

 

He's also big on reverb and delay and I've put some of it down to that as well, I'm not a fan of 'watery' sounds.

 

What are some ways to reduce the fizz and are there other MFX units that deal with it better without breaking the bank?  My ultimate use is for gigging; recording and rehearsing on a cheap practice amp is just for laying ideas down and practice respectively, I'm not as picky but other members of the band complain about it.

 

s

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If you've ever had any experience with analogue distortion units, you

will know some of the tried and true techniques that have been found

over the decades like cascading stages and front ending distortion

units with a booster or overdrive. Layering a distortion on-top of another

distortion is usually a tricky ordeal getting the gains right, if at all.

Alternatively, you could just buy your favourite distortion unit and

hope it performs just aswell in the POD's input or FX Loop, I did.

 

EDIT: I found a touch of stereo chorus can smooth some of that out.

          Placed anywhere AFTER the amp block and BEFORE delays.

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Yes, I've bought and sold a few. They just don't sit right with me. I love the tones other people can pull out of them, but I don't have the same connection to them. I feel "at home" with a Les Paul, and like I'm wearing someone else's underwear with a Strat.

 

As far as this thread goes, the Pod obviously isn't for everyone, just like guitars are not "one size fits all". The OP learned that, returned it, and moved on to (hopefully) one that fits him better.

 

Life is too short to spend it with gear you don't love.

 

Fender Strats? Have you ever owned one though? They're definitely different but you get used to it, the HM Strat is a different beast altogether.

 

s

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So you have two different amps? A gigging amp and a practice amp? That would call for two different patches obviously. I'm guessing you're using high gain since fizz is your complaint. Try the tread plate pre model with the blackback speaker cab, and throw a tube driver in front with gain around 30 and output around 70. Adjust EQ to taste, and keep tread plate gain below 50. Presence is a killer, so keep it fairly low too. Treadplate pre is still one of my favorites to diddle with.

 

 

Thanks for clearing this up, I was going nuts wondering where I'm going wrong.

 

Our other guitarist has a Boss and he gets some good sounds, I suspect it's also his amp which is superior to mine. I've yet to try plugging the POD into that to compare I thought I'd try fixing up my sound on my own amp first.

 

He's also big on reverb and delay and I've put some of it down to that as well, I'm not a fan of 'watery' sounds.

 

What are some ways to reduce the fizz and are there other MFX units that deal with it better without breaking the bank? My ultimate use is for gigging; recording and rehearsing on a cheap practice amp is just for laying ideas down and practice respectively, I'm not as picky but other members of the band complain about it.

 

s

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EDIT: I found a touch of stereo chorus can smooth some of that out.

          Placed anywhere AFTER the amp block and BEFORE delays.

 

I've also found this and a compressor or EQ at the end of the chain helped too.

 

 

That would call for two different patches obviously. Try the tread plate pre model with the blackback speaker cab, and throw a tube driver in front with gain around 30 and output around 70. Adjust EQ to taste, and keep tread plate gain below 50. Presence is a killer, so keep it fairly low too. Treadplate pre is still one of my favorites to diddle with.

 

 

 

Yep, two different patches.  The Treadplate Pre and F-ball Pre are my faves, I also prefer the blackback cab but I'm experimenting with 'No Cab' atm and yeah drive, presence and sometimes even volume are usually low. The thing is I'd like to set them higher but the fizz kills it for me so I'm trying to get a bit more gain with some of the distortion FX and have to set the drive low there too.

 

s

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With so many variables from pups through to cabinet, its not an easy thing to diagnose.

Once I had an Ibanez loaded with EMG's that gave me that exact same fizz result and

I couldn't work it out till I was in clean channel (mostly in gain mode lol) and noticed

distortion was being generated by the pups, so I lowered them and the fizz was reduced.

It could also be the POD in combination with your amp and cabinets, but I doubt it if

your gear is of decent quality and make. I'd experiment with other pups and amps and

do your own process of elimination to see if theres more you can do without spending.

The bulk of your experimenting should be done with the PODs internal settings but it

all starts at the pups, make sure your cleans are as clean as possible first.

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Yeah, I'm noticing the drives have to be on extremely low and I do get a decent result, I also have a hot bridge pickup, Bill Lawrence L-500XL and I do turn it down a touch on occasion.

 

The cleans are sounding great and the HD500 does very will in this respect. The neck pick up is a Kent Armstrong, I think it's a Vintage B12 when I switch from a clean to distortion the fizz is right there especially if I hit a low string and let it ring out while arpeggiating other strings in the chord.  The solution for that is previously mentioned - splitting paths with distortion in one path and mixing it to taste.

 

s

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You will never completely remove the fizz, but I believe in your case

it could be minimized, I don't remember it being THAT bad tbh and

if it was, it was always down to the PODs internal settings.

Things like inputs, outputs, amp/cab, and improper gain shaping 

seems to be the biggest contributors to the notorious fizz. 

And having the wrong settings for your cabling methods aswell.

Having input 2 set to variax seems to give the best signal

to noise ratio. And maybe try playing with the pad settings

in combination with other settings.

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