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Helix 4CM: can I “attenuate” my amp’s volume from the Helix itself?


ILikaGoFast
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Hello All,

 

I have posted asking about the 4CM before, so thanks for the help with my previous question!

 

My NEW question is this:

 

Is there a “proper way” to use the big volume knob (and source input settings,) on the Helix to be able to attenuate the signal from the amp you are using in the 4CM?

 

Here is why I am asking—

 

I have a Gibson Lab Series L7 amp. With the gain on the amp maxed out, and the amp’s master volume at 4 and higher, you get an awesome thick high gain sound. But even BETTER, is that if you use your guitar’s volume knob to roll down the volume substantially, you get this AMAZING chimey, saturated clean sound.

 

As an example, listen to the intro to the song “Summerland” here:

 


But the PROBLEM for me is that when the amp is turned up to 4 in my house, it is WAY too loud for my family. 
 

If I turn the amp’s master volume down to 1, (still surprisingly loud, but quite acceptable,) I CANNOT get that very unique clean sound when I roll the guitar’s volume knob down… the amp MUST be turned up much louder.

 

Typically, one is supposed to have the big volume knob on the Helix turned all the way up when running out to your PA, FRFR system or monitors.

 

Is there a way I can STILL have my Helix big volume knob turned up 100%, (so that my amp modeling presets will sound good going through the CLEAN channel in my Gibson L7 amp,) but somehow adjust my Helix’s source level/output/gain stages so that my Amp’s master volume CAN be set to 4, but that the sound coming out of it is attenuated by the Helix?

 

I’m sorry I don’t know the best terminology to use.

 

Basically, my goal is to keep my Helix’s big volume knob at 100%, run my modeled amp tones through my amp’s clean channel, and have my amp’s high gain channel master volume at 4, but with it’s overall volume greatly lowered/attenuated by the Helix so I CAN get great high gain AND lower gain sounds from my amp at a reasonable volume.

 

If anyone has any ideas and understands what I’m trying to convey, please give me some guidance if you can!

 

Thanks guys!!

 

:)

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One of the classic electric guitarist's dilemmas.

What you want is an attenuator.

The cheap passive attenuators suck a lot.

You want the kind with "reactive load".

The cheap ones like the Two Notes Captor X suck a little less than the passive ones (I've had both Bugera and Captor X).

The good ones - Ox Box/Waza TAE/Fryette PS2 - are very expensive.

Go to Sweetwater and search for "attenuator" to get a better idea what's out there.

Also check out Suhr and Fryette.

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Thanks for your reply.

 

So this isn’t something that the Helix can do?

 

No problem. Just thought I’d ask, as I had hoped to not need to buy an attenuator.

 

But, I DO want to get the best sound I CAN.

 

Thanks again for your time!

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What I said about attenuators still holds, BUT - 

 

The question of how to use the BIG KNOB is somewhat nuanced. The Output level control is PRE converter - that is, it's in the digital, not analog area. Theoretically, there's a tonal effect inherent in turning it down, based on some geeky bit-rate stuff. I (and others) have compared the sound at full and lower settings while using an amp's output control to compensate for Fletcher-Munson and, TBH, I can't hear the difference. Since the L7 is a SS amp, the tube driving aspect is irrelevant, but that leaves Fletcher-Munson. You COULD use the Global EQ to try and compensate for that and it MIGHT sound OK. I've done this with my Powercab with mixed results, but then, I didn't spend much time on it. The new L6 Catalyst series has .5/50/100 watt settings and supposedly they've incorporated EQ compensation into the lower settings. I use my Catalyst100 in an apartment on the .5 watt setting and it sounds very good between 60-75db (conversation levels).

 

Since you already have both Helix and the L7, there's certainly no harm in trying it out. With Global EQ to counter F-M it just might sound fine!

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On 5/6/2022 at 8:17 PM, rd2rk said:

One of the classic electric guitarist's dilemmas.

What you want is an attenuator.

The cheap passive attenuators suck a lot.

You want the kind with "reactive load".

The cheap ones like the Two Notes Captor X suck a little less than the passive ones (I've had both Bugera and Captor X).

The good ones - Ox Box/Waza TAE/Fryette PS2 - are very expensive.

Go to Sweetwater and search for "attenuator" to get a better idea what's out there.

Also check out Suhr and Fryette.


Ok, would you please be so kind as to describe the correct order of 4CM connections for me, if I got this attenuator?

 

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/tone-king-ironman-ii-power-attenuator
 

Additional info:

 

My amp has 2 separate channels, (non-footswitchable,) with “preamp in” and “power amp out” jacks on the rear panel.

 

I’m not sure how to make the 4CM connections with the Tone King II Attenuator in the chain of gear.

 

No rush to respond, thank you again for the help!

 

:)

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The Tone King goes between your amp's Speaker Out (TK Amplifier IN) and the Speaker (TK Speaker Out).

4cm remains the same.

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