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Do You Have The Same Problem With 6th String?

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I finally solved it! Sold the guitar and bought another Les Paul. Much happier now. YMMV.

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This is probably the most sensible solution.

I will not give up for now. There is no help from Line6, I try to seek help from YAMAHA.

 

 


Clay-man, sorry, I did not understand exactly what you mean:

"I must ask though, did you ever try what I told you do to?"

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Damn! Got mine today here in New Zealand and I have this problem...

it looks like I will have to return it.

 

So sad... I used to love my variax 600, which I sold due to relocation... was looking forward to buy a new one, now I'm vary frustrated after read this whole thread without any solution for the problem...

 

I was hopping they could fix it, but it looks like if I keep I will have a big headache...

 

Will try to return it tomorrow. :(

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Damn! Got mine today here in New Zealand and I have this problem...

it looks like I will have to return it.

 

So sad... I used to love my variax 600, which I sold due to relocation... was looking forward to buy a new one, now I'm vary frustrated after read this whole thread without any solution for the problem...

 

I was hopping they could fix it, but it looks like if I keep I will have a big headache...

 

Will try to return it tomorrow. :(

 

Keep returning your JTVs until you get a proper sounding/working one.

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Damn! Got mine today here in New Zealand and I have this problem...

it looks like I will have to return it.

 

So sad... I used to love my variax 600, which I sold due to relocation... was looking forward to buy a new one, now I'm vary frustrated after read this whole thread without any solution for the problem...

 

I was hopping they could fix it, but it looks like if I keep I will have a big headache...

 

Will try to return it tomorrow. :(

Ditch it now while you can still return it without too much hassel...unless you want to try the "raise the action by a gnat's eyelash" dance.

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How hard would it be for Line 6 to reduced the db (via software update) in a very narrow bandwidth of the offending frequency? It seems like the frequency is the same in most examples. Miroslav's is exactly the same overtone as mine.

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How hard would it be for Line 6 to reduced the db (via software update) in a very narrow bandwidth of the offending frequency? It seems like the frequency is the same in most examples. Miroslav's is exactly the same overtone as mine.

I was wondering that... Actually, first thing I have tried is to find something like that in the Workbench... found this thread instead, and my hope is gone...

I thought about open a ticket issue, but I can see it was useless for people here... I'm just waiting for the store to open...

 

It is impressive that line 6 has nothing to say about this issue...

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I was wondering that... Actually, first thing I have tried is to find something like that in the Workbench... found this thread instead, and my hope is gone...

I thought about open a ticket issue, but I can see it was useless for people here... I'm just waiting for the store to open...

 

It is impressive that line 6 has nothing to say about this issue...

It says volumes that they have this many issues with quality control. I've bought and returned at least 5 different JTV's over two different attempts to bond with one. I finally gave up and sold mine again. Luckily I broke even since I got it on sale + 15% off plus $150 rebate. Long story short: they are Chinese-quality guitars with electronics that WILL fail and leave you with an overpriced Chinese guitar. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but take that money and buy a quality American guitar that will still be worth something should you ever tire of it. Good luck!

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It says volumes that they have this many issues with quality control. I've bought and returned at least 5 different JTV's over two different attempts to bond with one. I finally gave up and sold mine again. Luckily I broke even since I got it on sale + 15% off plus $150 rebate. Long story short: they are Chinese-quality guitars with electronics that WILL fail and leave you with an overpriced Chinese guitar. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but take that money and buy a quality American guitar that will still be worth something should you ever tire of it. Good luck!

 

Actually, the problem isn't the electronics but the guitar hardware itself, so no, it won't just die in a few years.

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Well... I have returned, but unfortunately the store doesn't have a return policy.

 

At least I managed to convince them that there was a problem. They will bring another one that they have in a different store then I can test. It seems it is the beginning of a long soap-opera. :(

 

The one I got is the JTV-89F BTW. 

I'm happy with the general "quality" of the guitar with the magnetic caps... it sounds great... The only issue is this annoying issue with piezzo, it makes impossible to use drop D, drop C... 

 

I wish I had seen this thread before buy it. I'm really disappointed with Line 6 ignoring the problem...

 

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Well... I have returned, but unfortunately the store doesn't have a return policy.

 

I wouldn't buy a pick from a store with no return policy. Even if they can get away with it legally, it just ain't good for business...

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I wouldn't buy a pick from a store with no return policy. Even if they can get away with it legally, it just ain't good for business...

In some countries you don't have a choice...

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The latest report from Yamaha:

 

Poziadavku na odstranenie chyby poslem na prislusne oddelenie a nasledne budem informovat. (Slovak)

 

(The requirement for removing error I will send to the appropriate department and subsequently I will inform you.)

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I'm sorry you are having this issue as many of us have. I hope you are given an opportunity to exchange the guitar for something more reliable and of higher quality.

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Mitigating the problem through narrow-band EQ patch and making that available to users who have this problem seems like a decent work-around until a more comprehensive fix can be arrived at. 

 

Loads of good information in this thread.  I'll be trying many of the suggestions found here.

 

**UPDATE** I just got home from work and threw an ELIXER POLYWEB .052 on the low E and PLINK IS GONE!  ON ALL MODELS... Yes with insane overdrive.  (Cleaner tones were never and issue with PLINK for me.)  I'm using my Splawn Quickrod in 3rd gear and gain is dimed.  I've experimented with extreme EQ and more normal EQ settings on the amp at various volumes all the way to "it hurts, I gotta turn down" volumes.  NO PLINK. 

 

I'll order up some ELIXER strings in 10 - 46 and try that soon.  I'd prefer to be able to get wide vibrato and easier pinch harmonics from a .046 on the low E.  Hopefully the ELIXER polyweb coating is the trick and not just the heavier guage .052.  Whatever the case may be this is a RADICAL improvement.

 

For reference, I was playing with loads of palm muting on songs like "Slither" by Velvet Revolver and "Perry Mason" by Ozzy/Zack Wylde.  (tuned to standard/440 and using the drop D alt tuning mode)  Before switching the string to a .052 Elixer Polyweb, I couldn't tolerate the plink sound on these songs and would have to switch to the mag p'ups and drop my E to a D... which totally defeats the purpose of modeling and alt tuning.  Now I'm a happy camper and wail on without cringing at the plink!

 

Still nothing beats the mag pickups for palm muting.  Mags are still smoother and beefier, but this is a giant improvement.  Whatever gripe remains for palm-muting (for me) is likely more a function of Piezo/bridge pickup saddles and the physics which may never be overcome completely at this level of technology and hardware, but I'm very pleased by the current improvement.

 

BIG thanks to the Line6 community and to "Crocco?" who all made great suggestions. 

 

I will continue to tinker and report back, as I'm sure many of you will as well.  I really hope this helps for other people having this issue.

 

Rock On!

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I too have the same issue and after dropping close $1400. on this guitar I'm pissed off. At first I just thought it was the modeling. I kept doing you tube searches to see if anyone else had this issue. I never really ever found anything except the palm muting issues.Then I found this thread and several others. I just cannot understand how Line 6 can honestly say there is no issue. I have purchased so much gear from these guys , spider amps, Ux2, Pod Farm, HD500, HD500X, Amplifi 150, Firehawk and now the Helix. Its really wrong and dishonest to not recall these 89f and fix the issue or at least give a different model.

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I'm looking for in vain the set of strings 10-13-17-26-36-52 :)

 

artdib2 wrote previously: "It's possible that Line6 already knows what would fix the problem, but have come to the conclusion that the best fix is too costly."

That's probably the main reason for inaction. And it is absolutely unacceptable reason.

 

Yamaha is currently waiting for a response from the Line 6. Problem was also consulted with the guitar technicians from Yamaha in Japan, but I do not know the details.

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MiroslavKloud:  The .052 I put on the Low E was from a set of Elixer, Polyweb acoustic strings I had on hand.  Plink is completely gone since putting the 52 on my low E.  (You'll see a set of 10 - 52's electric strings below... so they do exist.)

 

My next step is to try several different brands and gauges of both coated and non-coated strings.  Here's what I have on order to experiment with:

 

-Clear tone 10 - 46 - I'm going to try these to see if the coated strings work well enough to get rid of plink without using a heavier low E (2 sets $12.99 each)

 

-Elixir Nanoweb Light top Heavy Bottom set- 10, 13, 17, 32, 42, 52.  If all else fails, I have an electric set of coated strings with a .052 low E in the set.  I already know that an Elixir Polyweb, .052 low E solves the PLINK, but it will take some practice before I feel comfortable with the heavier gauges in this set. Plus this set is Nanoweb NOT Polyweb, so who knows if they'll kill PLINK.  (2 sets $10.99 each) 

 

-Dunlop Heavy Core NPS 10 - 48 light heavy - These stings also use a proprietary core wire and wrapping system which may resolve plink.  (3 sets at $4.50 each)

 

-GHS David Gilmour 10 - 48 Light Heavy -  I've always wanted to try these strings, even before getting a JTV-59.  I'm hoping the .048 may minimize plink.  If not, I'll still use these on my other guitars.  (3 sets at $5.19 each)

 

At the heart of the issue with PLINK is the fact that piezo's "hear" better than mags.  having the pickup built into the saddle also over-accentuates high frequency content.  PLINK gets worse as overdrive is increased. 

 

Extraneous vibration which magnetic pickups don't typically reproduce or "hear" is causing the PLINK sound.  The PLINK sound being heard/reproduced by the Piezo's might be minimized by coated strings or a more accurate wrap of wound strings or by the ratio of wraps around the strings' core.  It's possible that a coating, like that on Elixir's or Cleartone strings, may saturate through the winding and prevent the core wire from causing micro vibrations (perhaps eddy currents is the correct term?) inside the windings... We'll see if this theory is valid.  It's worth a try.  A side benefit of coated strings is that they'll last longer and mellow out the top end, high frequencies which the models seem to have too much of IMO.  I have a love/hate relationship with coated strings and know that they're not for everyone.  If they solve PLINK, I'll can live with that.

 

I'll report back once I receive the stings.  If these don't work, I'll try other types of strings. 

 

Finding the best strings to use to avoid PLINK is a far less complicated and expensive solution than changing the bridge to the Ghost bridge as at least one member of the community has done.  We just need to determine which strings will resolve or minimize PLINK. 

 

I hope others here will try different strings and gauges and report back.  Knowing ahead of time which types of strings minimize or eliminate PLINK would save JTV users the time and expense of experimenting from scratch.  Once we have a running list, perhaps that list can be pinned on the home page with the help of a moderator.

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artdib2:

Good luck in finding and I am curious to see your results.

But I will stay with my strings.
I looked user manual and the box. I did not find any warnings from Line 6:
Attention! Do not use strings 10-46 !!!

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Plus this set is Nanoweb NOT Polyweb, so who knows if they'll kill PLINK. (2 sets $10.99 each)

 

I use Elixirs on all my guitars...I was hesitant at first, mostly because of the price, but if you buy 12+ sets at a time (I get them from Sweetwater), you can get the price down to somewhere between $8-$9 a set. And you're right, they do last a good long time...it's one of the few instances where an advertising blurb actually turns out to be the truth. "Lasts 4x-5x longer than regular strings"...I find that to be pretty accurate. They're worth if for that alone. I hate changing strings ;).

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Cruisinon2:  I use Elixir's on my Blackbird Super OM carbon fiber acoustic.  I use the guitar outdoors a lot on the beachfront.  Salty air kills ordinary strings in a few days.  I also like how Elixir's cut some of the top end from my already too bright carbon fiber acoustic.  This is the reason why I thought the coated strings might minimize unwanted treble artifacts or PLINK for my JTV.  Do you notice a reduction in PLINK using the Elixir's?

 

(P.S.  500th post now?) 

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Cruisinon2: I use Elixir's on my Blackbird Super OM carbon fiber acoustic. I use the guitar outdoors a lot on the beachfront. Salty air kills ordinary strings in a few days. I also like how Elixir's cut some of the top end from my already too bright carbon fiber acoustic. This is the reason why I thought the coated strings might minimize unwanted treble artifacts or PLINK for my JTV. Do you notice a reduction in PLINK using the Elixir's?

 

(P.S. 500th post now?)

I'm fortunate to have been spared the plink issue, despite using a lot of high-gain tones...I just sweat battery acid ;), so I'd go through a set of strings in a week, sometimes less. That's why I made the switch.

 

Tone-wise, I can't say that I noticed much of a difference...then again, I've said the same thing about different string brands for 25 years. Gauge absolutely makes a difference, and some sets have a slightly different tactile feel to them. But otherwise, unless we're talking round-wound vs. flat-wound or half-round strings, I'd say there's very little tonal difference from one brand to another. Subtle at best, if there's any difference at all. Just my 2 cents.

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I use Elixirs on my Variax's also - I think they are slightly less bright than most and I like that with the Piezo pickups.  They last a long time and they have less annoying squeak when moving your fingers on them than most.

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Someone likes, someone not. I was tryout Elixirs on other guitar and I was disappointed. I also tryout GHS on the Variax. They were less bright compared EXL110. I then returned to EXL110, they are perfect with magnetic pickups (for me).

And also - D'Addario are the original strings on the Variax and with them first time showed plink - on the first concert.

I will not look for other strings. Line 6 must find a solution.

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If you look at my post #498, you'll see I was going to experiment with different strings and gauges.  I'm reporting back now that the only string that minimized Low E string PLINK (while palm muting with loads of overdrive) was the Elixir .052 Polyweb.  YMMV.

 

There are infinite variables in play.  I should note that boosting any pickup above 0db in Workbench is a disaster for my setup.  I struggle to balance out single coil models with the rest.  I lowered the mags a bit and that helps both with balancing volume with the models and mitigating string pull.   I also lowered the humbucker pickup volume levels for the  louder models a bit below 0db in workbench.  I turned down my low E to Zero to see how the Low E bleeds into the other piezo's and that was an eye opener.  I adjusted string to string volume balance to compensate for that in some models with good results.  If not for the tweaking I did within WB, the models would be useless to me as they were from the factory.

 

I have tried string damping and many, many other suggestions.  The best suggestions which worked for me are related to making sure my setup was very close to perfect for my style of playing.  (I'm heavy handed with both my right and left hands)  Getting the cleanest, purist, fundamental note delivered to the Piezo's is critical.  If there's anything about the guitar's setup which causes buzzing, rattling, pinging or any extraneous vibration, then models and alt tuning will suffer greatly.  Proper setup is no small feat for a beginner.  I have some experience setting up various guitars and have done it part-time in shops to supplement my income, so I have the benefit of having learned from some very experienced luthiers over the years.  I set up the guitar conservatively and avoided action that was too low or a neck which was too straight to avoid string to fret buzz and chatter.  If I was only concerned with the performance of the magnetic pickups I could easily have gone for lower action or spent less time on de-burring nut slots or tightening and/or dampening every single piece of hardware.  The guitar is still not performing perfectly for all models, but I have improved it as much as my patience can tolerate at this point, and my results have been pretty satisfying.

 

I will replace these frets with stainless steel when the original frets start to wear and I start getting fret/string buzz due to groves wearing under the strings in my favorite positions.  I don't want to waste time with an LCP (level, crown & polish).  Once the frets wear to that point, stainless frets are going on this neck for sure.  This guitar is tricky enough to dial in when the frets are perfect.  I prefer not to keep tweaking as frets age and the setup becomes more time consuming to achieve.

 

I highly recommend not trying to adjust intonation with models engaged.  I don't even tune the guitar with models engaged.  There's just too many harmonic anomalies and superfluous overtones freaking out my electronic tuner when any model is engaged.  On a loud stage, there's no point trying to tune by ear.  I always mute my outputs and use my rack tuner at shows.

 

This guitar is not for the beginner who can't root out common setup issues and maintain the guitar at a high level.  If you want to use the models, you'll need your setup and maintenance to be spot on.  I know what it would cost if the guitar had to be brought to the shop to keep in in tip-top condition with heavy use and ever changing climate conditions on the road in the Northeast.  I learned how to intonate, setup and maintain a guitar over the years, and it's paying off big-time now.

 

I know some JTV's are nearly perfect out of the box, but that was definitely not the case for me.  Thankfully my JTV59 was still far better than many who posted here.  I'm glad I didn't swap this guitar out for another JTV59.  I see now that I could've done far worse.  Any remaining issues I have with extraneous noise causing models to sound strange are minimal and can't be noticed while playing in a full band scenario, but it still is somewhat disappointing when I'm playing the models alone.  I've noticed many weird sonic issues which may be impossible to eliminate with the current technology and hardware limitations of Piezo pickups.  I appreciate the guitar for all its strong points and I'm amazed at how far this technology has evolved.  There's still much improvement to be had.  R&D has always been Line 6's strong suit.  I hope Yamaha fosters that culture. 

 

I will say that the guitar is easily worth the $850 price I paid for it.  Even if the models are less than stellar, this guitar sounds and plays great with the magnetic pickups.  I also feel the alternate tunings and acoustic models are good enough to fool the vast majority of folks in the audiences I perform for, even if I can detect the minimal weirdness of the models.  For those reasons, I will be keeping this until the next technology advance comes around.

 

Thanks to this thread, I have learned much.  Without a community of other users sharing their experience, I would not have improved this guitar enough to hold onto it.  So BIG thanks to all the contributors here.  I hope you all find a way to make this guitar work well for your style of playing and setup.

 

If I come across any other significant improvements via modification or other adjustments, I'll post it here.

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Great job!  It sounds like you spent a lot of time working on your setup here.  As you said, there are lots of variables and playing style is a big one that can cause these plinking problems with Piezo pickups.  Overdriving these pickups also causes nasty sounds.  The modeling depends on a very clean undistorted signal.  Crosstalk degrades the modeling big time if you are using alternate tunings.

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I`m having the same issue with my brand new JTV-89F. High pitch noise when picking the low E string. Is there a solution yet?

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I have read all the posts on this topic (quite a lot) and I was wondering if the guitars that are having this problem fall within a series of serial numbers since it seems not all the guitars have this issue.

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I`m having the same issue with my brand new JTV-89F. High pitch noise when picking the low E string. Is there a solution yet?

No. And there isn't going to be. If you're still within the return period, ditch it now, get one that works, and save yourself the endless aggravation. Official explanations range from the very unlikely to the ridiculous. The simple truth is that some of them work out of the box, and some don't. If yours doesn't, it's probably not going to.

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Good idea, but the serial numbers probably will differ between JTV-59, JTV-89 and JTV-69.

It would be interesting to compare series of bridges, but it is not probably impossible to determine.

 

My Guitar:

 

JTV-59   W11111593

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One additional note - I've also been fighting the tonality of both my 2010 59 & 2012 69S for quite some time, finding not problems with the low E so much as the D, G, & B strings being plunky. I am a user of the mags probably 80 - 90% of the time, because they sound so good to me - the dynamics & tone. I have messed with the individual string volumes on a per model basis, and with different cap and pot values in HD Workbench, but never quite got it there to compete with the mags. The ones I did not have trouble with are the acoustics, never noticed the plunky-ness with those. I do set up EQ & compression, etc with the acoustics and have gotten some very good patches with those, but they do not have an amp model on my HD500(X) or now on my Helix -- very happy with those.

 

I found the plunky problem on my clean amp patches - super clean Fender models, etc. - the mags sound great, but the JTV electric models, not so much. 2 things I found - 1) I use my Global EQ to flatten the response of my PA/Monitor speaker I use -- found it to be Full Range, but NOT Flat Response - it has a midrange vocal emphasis. I cut the 1/4" outs only to my Quilter Tone Block 200 amp & Yorkville Speaker at 3 kHz to -8dB with Q = 1.7, to compensate for the midrange vocal emphasis. 2) I found the amp model microphone to have a big influence on the plunky attack of the JTV models, and found the Speaker Cabs' normal mic set up - especially the 57 to make the plunky-ness stand out. I tried other mic models and have had very good results with the ribbon 121 and the 414 condenser for very clean patches. The distortion and overdrive amp patches I have don't really seem to have the plunky JTV model string issues in my set up, maybe they just get masked by the distortion or compression going on. Mic placement also influences the affect of the mics on the problem. In short, the problem in my set up at least has more than one culprit. Not all issues are just to do with the guitar.

 

Anyway, thought I'd throw this out there, too.

 

Dave

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Just to clarify... It "IS" a piezo problem, right? For SURE?

 

Because I'm in Brazil. I have no chance returning the guitar. Also we have no authorized Line 6 dealers or tech support here, unfortunately.

 

My best hope is to know exactly what's the problem and try to fix it myself. The piezos are small enough so I think I could import some of them by mail and replace'em myself.

 

Other doubt: All the piezos are the same or they differ from string to string in any way? 

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All piezos are the same, but the replacement is wasted.

You can choose between two approaches:

1. update the firmware to version 2.30 (does not exist yet)

2. Replacement of the bridge from the new high quality series (has not yet been manufactured)

 

Another possibility is the complaint here:

 


 

I strongly recommend this option.

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Dartveiga:  To say that the root cause of problem is the piezo's is not necessarily correct.  You piezo's are very likely working as designed.  Replacing the piezo for your low E string is not likely to solve the issue you are having.  Changing the piezo might help, but there are many other, less invasive things you should probably try first.  Check for improvement after trying each of these suggestions:

-Raise the bridge on the low E side by about 1/2 rotation on the screw.  (even very slight fret buzz can cause a PLINK sound from the piezo)

-Try a heavier or lighter gauge string for your Low E.  (I used a .052 Elixer Polyweb on my JTV-59 and that reduced the PLINK sound dramatically. I believe that the Polyweb coating on Elixer's also carry less harmonic overtones to the piezo's and deliver a cleaner fundamental note to the piezo's.  Yes, it's a compromise for sure.)

-Check neck relief.  If you're neck has no relief at all and is very straight, you may have some string rattle or buzz which may be causing PLINK sound.  If you've never adjusted a neck before, check out some instructions on the web and practice on a cheaper guitar first.

-Adjust the string volume of the E, A, and D strings downward.  I typically lower the volume on my Low E string to 85%, the A to 75% and the D to 75%.  This also helped minimize PLINK sounds coming from my Low E when I was palm muting the Low E using heavy overdrive.

 

I also recommend that you do an experiment in workbench.  Turn your Low E strings' volume to zero in workbench.  Now palm mute your E string and also pick it open.  You'll notice that some or all of your other Piezo's can still translate vibration from (or "hear") your Low E string.  This just shows how incredibly sensitive Piezo's are.  As you may imagine, string buzz or vibration from any loose hardware is also heard by the piezos.  The better skill you have at setting up your guitar to eliminate string buzz and provide the piezo's with the clearest, purist, fundamental note, the less likely you will be to have the PLINK sound. 

 

These suggestions don't work for everyone, but it is a good starting point, especially considering that Line6 service providers are more challenging to find or travel to in Brazil.  You have come to the right place Dartveiga, the Line 6 community of users are a great resource to find tips, tricks and tweaks to get the most out of your Line 6 gear.  I really hope this helps you.

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Dartveiga:  To say that the root cause of problem is the piezo's is not necessarily correct.  You piezo's are very likely working as designed.  Replacing the piezo for your low E string is not likely to solve the issue you are having.  Changing the piezo might help, but there are many other, less invasive things you should probably try first.  Check for improvement after trying each of these suggestions:

-Raise the bridge on the low E side by about 1/2 rotation on the screw.  (even very slight fret buzz can cause a PLINK sound from the piezo)

-Try a heavier or lighter gauge string for your Low E.  (I used a .052 Elixer Polyweb on my JTV-59 and that reduced the PLINK sound dramatically. I believe that the Polyweb coating on Elixer's also carry less harmonic overtones to the piezo's and deliver a cleaner fundamental note to the piezo's.  Yes, it's a compromise for sure.)

-Check neck relief.  If you're neck has no relief at all and is very straight, you may have some string rattle or buzz which may be causing PLINK sound.  If you've never adjusted a neck before, check out some instructions on the web and practice on a cheaper guitar first.

-Adjust the string volume of the E, A, and D strings downward.  I typically lower the volume on my Low E string to 85%, the A to 75% and the D to 75%.  This also helped minimize PLINK sounds coming from my Low E when I was palm muting the Low E using heavy overdrive.

 

I also recommend that you do an experiment in workbench.  Turn your Low E strings' volume to zero in workbench.  Now palm mute your E string and also pick it open.  You'll notice that some or all of your other Piezo's can still translate vibration from (or "hear") your Low E string.  This just shows how incredibly sensitive Piezo's are.  As you may imagine, string buzz or vibration from any loose hardware is also heard by the piezos.  The better skill you have at setting up your guitar to eliminate string buzz and provide the piezo's with the clearest, purist, fundamental note, the less likely you will be to have the PLINK sound. 

 

These suggestions don't work for everyone, but it is a good starting point, especially considering that Line6 service providers are more challenging to find or travel to in Brazil.  You have come to the right place Dartveiga, the Line 6 community of users are a great resource to find tips, tricks and tweaks to get the most out of your Line 6 gear.  I really hope this helps you.

 

artdib2, man, first of all, thank you for trying to help me out! Thank you!

 

Unfortunately, none of your tips seemed to fix the problem directly. BUT, when I was messing around with Workbench, I discovered that the problem was much bigger using the Les Paul body. When I switched to neutral body, the plinky sound almost disappeared. The sound of the guitar is, of course, a lot different, but is preferable than using it if that annoying noise. At least I can use it with different tunes.

 

 

 

All piezos are the same, but the replacement is wasted.
You can choose between two approaches:
1. update the firmware to version 2.30 (does not exist yet)
2. Replacement of the bridge from the new high quality series (has not yet been manufactured)
 
Another possibility is the complaint here:
 
 
I strongly recommend this option.

 

 

 

What I can infer from this is that it really seams to be a problem with the software/firmware of the Variax JTV-89F. I opened a support ticket and I'm about to write an Amazon review (https://www.amazon.com/review/RVRYUN696G0P4/ref=pe_1098610_137716200_cm_rv_eml_rv0_rv) about this problem. Hope this get the attention from Line 6 support to fix this up.

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What I can infer from this is that it really seams to be a problem with the software/firmware of the Variax JTV-89F. I opened a support ticket and I'm about to write an Amazon review about this problem. Hope this get the attention from Line 6 support to fix this up.

This issue is definitely not specific to the 89F. All the models have demonstrated the same problem, and they're all running essentially the same firmware. "Official" explanations usually blame something mechanical like fret buzz, etc...which may contribute to the problem, but having heard a bunch of sound clips where the plink is utterly atrocious on the 6th string, yet completely absent anywhere else, I find it difficult to accept fret buzz as the root cause. I've been setting up guitars for 25 years. If a guitar is set-up so badly, with the 6th string buzzing to such an extent as to cause the sounds I've heard, then there's no way on earth that the same guitar would not have similar fret buzz on other strings...it would be almost impossible. Yet the problem exists only on the low E, so there's something else going on. What, I have no idea. And I seriously doubt anyone else does either, or it would have been rectified by now. People have been bitching about it for years.

 

Some guitars do it, some don't. If yours is new, ditch it and save yourself the grief. I got lucky...mine works.

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89F,... could be a number of reasons other than what's on this forum.

Could be set-up, mal-adjusted locking nut, some other hardware that's

not as tight as it should,... etc. Could be any number of things.

 

There are those who, because of the genre they play, use string sets

starting with 11-gauge, instead of 10-gauge. If you try that, be sure to

have your guitar set-up checked and adjusted if needed, since changing

gauges alters string tension which results in affecting the set-up.

 

 

If it was the firmware, then everyone who owns a JTV would have this

problem. Since we don't, then it must be something else.

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Firmware does not cause plink.

The cause of the "plink" is a longitudinal wave.

But the firmware can solve this problem - on a string A5 this works right.

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