gravesleo

This helps a great deal. Appreciate the feedback.

When creating a preset, if I setup a foot switch to make multiple parameter changes (e.g., adjust gain, mix level, tone etc.) on multiple FX blocks (e.g., a drive, an amp, and an EQ etc.) simultaneously, is this capability restricted by how much available DSP the preset has overall? If not, is this capability restricted by anything in Helix (i.e., a maximum number of parameters a single foot switch can control or a maximum number of foot switch control commands a preset will allow)?

I would like to run analog pedals through the effects loop on a POD HD500X while using a Variax guitar. Is it possible to use the 4 cable method when the signal is originating from the PODs Variax input as opposed to the 1/4" guitar input?

Looking for suggestions to eliminate clipping when recording PODHD500X/JTV-89F via USB. The master volume on the PODHD is turned all the way down when using the USB output for recording, so this isn't having an effect on the sound level. Also, because I am using a Variax, I imagine the guitar isn't overdriving the signal any. Even when I turned down the input level going into the recording software (in this case Garageband) to as little as 25%, the clipping was still present, so again I imagine the input isn't too sensitive. Any suggestions welcome,

I want to gradually and seamlessly fade from a tube screamer into a classic distortion effect. I attempted to do this using the expression pedal by setting it to control both effects on EXP 1. The toe switch served to simultaneously activate both effects and the pedal position was adjusted so that in toe down (i.e. maximum) position the output of one effect was zero while the other would sound; and when released to the heel down (i.e. minimum) position the outputs switched. The outcome however was that while both effects did activate with the toe switch, when the pedal was moved only one of the effects responded. Before I go through the trouble of figuring out a work around, is there a way I can get this scenario to work as described? Any help would be appreciated.

I think you're on to something Johnnyayyy. I did the same side by side comparison to my Ibanez and concluded the same things. The angle of the headstock certainly plays a role which I can do nothing about. However, the fret wire on the JTV doesn't seem to be nearly as polished as on my Ibanez. I will give customer service a call so we can go over the warranty details first, before I have anyone touch the JTV. I appreciate everyone's comments and insights. Thanks all...

The Ibanez has a floating trem also. The strings on the Variax are actually breaking at the fret where the bend is being performed, as oppose to at the saddle. For example, I was doing whole step bends fretting at the 15th and 10th frets respectively in both instances, when the string literally broke right under my fingers. I imagine you're right about the string tension with regards to floating the bridge. If it isn't the string tension then maybe the fret wire has something to do with it I guess. Aside from my fingers, the fret wire is the only other thing in contact with the string at the location of the breaks (for the most part). At this point I won't feel comfortable bending any strings, at least not while playing live, until I get to the bottom of this.

I recently purchased my first JTV a month ago and the thing I noticed when I got my hands on it was that compared to my RG series Ibanez the string tension was slightly more taut, despite having the same string gauge as my Ibanez. In recent weeks I have broken the high e string twice when doing simple whole step bends around the 15th fret and 10th fret respectively. Oddly enough, in ten years playing my Ibanez I have never broken a string, so I immediately concluded that this was do to the string tension. Does anyone have a JTV-89F they feel has more string tension then is typical of a guitar strung with 10's? If so, have you been able to rectify this and how? I'm not sure if this feel is unique to the 89F with a floating bridge because I tested an 89 in the store, but the 89F had to be special ordered so I didn't get my hands on it until it shipped. I'm thinking of having a tech setup the action but if this won't help I will spend my money elsewhere. Any advice would be appreciated.

Prior to me purchasing my JTV-89F in late October I called Line 6 tech support to ask this question and they told me that D'Addario 10's are the stock string gauge. I recently broke the high E string twice in the last three weeks and replaced it with D'Addario 10's and they were the same as the stock string.

The Hercules Stand is the solution. I would suggest one of the models that have the back brace for your guitar. This feature provides for the ability to also support non-traditional body types like (e.g. a flying V). http://www.herculesstands.com/guitars/GS412B.html

Just got my very first JTV and was curious, what model of guitar stand works best for when the DVI cable is connected?

I spoke with Line 6 by phone only days ago and it was confirmed that a wireless solution is constantly being talked about in response to IdeaScale requests. Also while doing some recent internet searches on the subject, I came across some interesting info and thought I'd share. As it turns out, some capable DIYers have solved this riddle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGwDaOJLSS4 (Roosevelt Walker on June 7, 2007) http://vettaville.nl/pagmore.php?id=166 (Vettaville on November 1, 2006)

This reply doesn't address your specific concern but I thought I'd share my solution to a similar problem. I was recently looking to purchase a Mobile 25 but opted for the 49 instead, due primarily to the stand issue. Basically there were two options I considered. If I were going to use the Mobile Keys with my 88 key Yamaha which sits on an Ultimate Support IQ-3000 stand, I'd attach an add-on 2nd tier. The add-on tier would have been just narrow enough for the Mobile 25. However, sense I am using it with my guitar rig only, I purchased the 49 and a dedicated ProLine PL200 (X brace type stand) with a quick adjust lever. Going this route means there can be little to no variation in the height adjustment because the keyboard is only but so wide, and with the keyboard being as light weight as it is you can't do any glissandos or organ smears without the keyboard rocketing off the stand like a typewriter carriage being slammed hard right. A product called Easy Liner Select Grip solved that problem however. I picked this stuff up at Walmart years ago to keep my guitar stomp boxes, keyboard sustain pedals etc. from sliding around under foot. Its sort of a rubbery microfiber like material you roll out and cut to size and has a non-adhesive grip surface. It is usually in the plastic kitchenware aisle and comes in a number of neutral colors, though I haven't found it in black yet.