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UX1 / Pod Farm. How tweakable?
fflbrgst replied to louhela's topic in POD Farm / POD Studio / TonePort
4G RAM is going to be the limiting factor when recording. He should shut down all the 'running in the background' software. Be aware that some VSTs (if you use anything other than PodFarm) use up a lot of RAM, things like reverbs and virtual instruments. -
I was wondering, is there a way to download the full presets for the spider amps (V 120 in this case) Looking for the original presets that came with the amp but I lost after the 2.0 update. Thank you. Peter
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FBV Express MKII + Spider V 240 MkII
fflbrgst replied to Spidermanuel's topic in FBV Controllers (MKI / MKII / 3)
To use the FBV with the control software, the USB hook up has to be through the FBV not the amp. -
My guess is that those patches are using a Wah FX, where the pedal is to be used for that function. Remove the Wah FX and save the patch that way.
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Struggling with 2 types of sounds (technically 3)
DunedinDragon replied to themetallikid's topic in Helix
From Bill Leverty's website: "I was always a huge fan of layering guitars to get a huge guitar sound in the studio. For the first two FireHouse albums, I recorded six separate passes of guitar tracks. Our producer, David Prater, first had me record a pair of tracks with his Fender Bassman. Each one of these tracks was a separate "pass" or performance, so it sounded like there were two guitars playing the same thing. Next, I recorded another pair of tracks using my mid 70's 50 watt Marshall. After that, I recorded yet another pair of tracks with my Soldano SLO 100. A mix of those six tracks are what made that wall of sound on the debut FireHouse album. Our second album, HOLD YOUR FIRE, had the same amps layered, but we added another pair of tracks with David's Music Man amp, so that album had eight tracks of rhythm guitar tracks just for the dirty rhythm sound." Given the extensive multi-tracking of the guitar, you'll probably need to combine a couple of amps with different cabs/IRs at least to get close to the sound you want. I might suggest mixing two amps in parallel and start from there. Maybe start with the Marshall and the SLO and tweak them to get the right feel. Maybe even tweak the BIAS and BIAS X parameters on each amp differently which might give it that wall of sound blended feel. Interesting problem I'll admit. As far as the 90's sound, I think you'd have to be a bit more specific due to the variety of styles. You want something more Weezer, or Foo Fighters, or Green Day or Rage Against The Machine? They're kind of similar in a couple of ways with a more controlled level of gain, but using fairly tight compression for more sustain and grunt and very definitely dry (little to no reverb). Personally I'd probably start with the Cartographer as that has a lot of flexibility built into it for managing that kind of sound. -
It really doesn't matter if you put one effect down there, or all effects down there. The only point of using that lower path in this scenario was to gain access to the phase inverter on the merge block. Sounds like you got that sorted out.
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it should be possible, by chain linking the devices via MIDI, with the POD first as MIDI master control. every time you change preset on the POD it automatically transmits a program change via MIDI following a predefined table of values. eg bank 1 preset A --> MIDI program change #000, bank 1 preset B --> program change #001, and so on.. just organize the presets in the other connected devices so that they follow the same order. as for your new digital amp blackstar, if you buy the HX FX you can connect it to it to get the channel switching, while the HX FX will in turn be controlled via MIDI from the POD (MIDI master control in all the chained devices) Your amp can be controlled directly by devices like HX FX, but not directly by the POD. To control directly your amp with the POD you need an additional device, ie a Control Switcher, like shown in the following clip: but if you add the HX FX to your arsenal you don't need anymore a Control Switcher _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ All about POD HD500/X
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There is something wrong with the USB port on the Helix if what you are saying it accurate. Just like any other USB B port... the cable should lock in firmly. I assume you mean "got a USED helix".... maybe that is why the person sold it! If they were rough on it and broke the USB port then they may have thought they could never update again... pawning if off on you! A qualified tech can fix that in the heartbeat... take the unit in for service.
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question: can i run the hx stomp in 4CM and have only the post fx path (after the preamp) for delay, reverb, etc, in killdry mode...? or would the killdry mode be global and then also affect the whole unit...? or can killdry be done for each fx block extra...? thanks
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Hi, Well, jury rigging the cable may work as a temporary solution, but for safety’s sake, I would seriously recommend that you have the unit repaired by a qualified tech. Until then take care, as any disturbance to the connection will cause data loss and “device not recognised” messages - and that way madness lies!
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In global settings you can set them to be push button instead of capacitive.
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Looking for some insight that might help me save my amp. I bought a first gen way back, and it sat unused for decades. Looking to resurrect, I pulled it out of storage. No sound :(. Although there was a loud hum from the speaker, the master volume knob did nothing, it was as if it was stuck at max volume but there was no guitar tone. No scratches from the knob, nothing. I could change channels and such but it wasn't really playable. I figured there was an issue with the master volume pot. I pulled it apart, and used contact cleaner on all the pots, with zero effect. Then I learned it's not a pot at all, but an electronic switch. I read on the forums here about resetting it to factory defaults by turning it on while holding all four channel buttons down. I did that and it appears to have reset it successfully. There is no speaker hum until I let the buttons go, so I'm starting to think it's a software issue. (I found the firmware test - holding Channel C button down while start it up, I have firmware 1.5). So in a last ditch effort, I resurrected the floorboard, plugged it in and it appears to be working great. As soon as I put the volume pedal down the amp is at full volume. I can change the volume with the floor board pedal, but I can't cut the master volume to avoid the hum. I'm hoping someone has a trick to help get the amp back to usable. Otherwise I guess I better go amp shopping. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Verify that your PC+ xlr output is set to line. It also has the option of mic level which is much lower.
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I appreciate your spirit and wish you all the luck. Pack plenty of rations and wool socks.
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Hi guys, I updated my Pod X3 Pro for these days and now show on screen that GearBox is not allow anymore, anybody knows which software may I edit the Pod X3 Pro by the computer? I`m using Mac... Thanks,
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very green spider jam Trumpeter help, advice, ideas?
saltyjazz replied to saltyjazz's topic in Spider Jam
cheers Gary, i have got the pilot guide in hardback and downloaded the advanced guide, ive got Mic leads to go to XLR or quarter instrument jack, Mics that are wireless that have 1/4 plug-in receiver and another that has a receiver unit with XLR cable out of that, ive got an old AIWA CM-1018 UNI-DIRECTIONAL CONDENSER " put a battery inside it" with lead attached and 1/4 jack on the end (i like this one out of them all) if its any help here is a list of my Mics, nothing flash or expensive, from the top i will put my favourite AIWA CM-1018 UNI-DIRECTIONAL CONDENSER, BATTERY, 1/4 JACK BEHRINGER XM8500 ULTRAVOICE DYNAMIC CARDIOID XLR OUT TECHNIKA, A SMALL TABLE MIC I HAVE CUT THE BASE OF AND HEATED UP THE STEM AND BENT IT ROUND SO IT IS A CLIP ON MIC WITH A BOOM, LEAD, 1/8 JACK GREAT SOUND T,bone ST40 ELECTREC CONDENSER POWER UNIT LEAD TO 1/8 STEREO JACK , ALL MY SMALL CLIP-ONS CAN GO INTO THIS (PHANTOM POWER UNIT? STEREO MIC THAT WAS WITH THE T,bone unit 2 CLIP-ONS FROM A HARD OF HEARING SYSTEM 2 PRO SOUND WIRELESS SYSTEMS ONE HAS 1/4 JACK RECEIVER AND THE OTHER HAS A RECEIVER UNIT WITH MIXED AUDIO 1/4 OUTPUT OR BALANCED AUDIO XLR OUTPUT, BOTH THESE HAVE HEADSET MICS AND CLIP-ONS, I BROUGHT THEM BECAUSE THEY WERE CHEAP, 2 STAGG MICS, THEY COST £10 DELIVERED NEW WITH LEADS AND STAND CLIPS, THEY WORK (I HAD TO RE-SOLDER THE SAME JOINT ON BOTH, THEY HAVE ON-OFF SWITCHES THAT ALL COST £10 AND THEY WORK, SOLID HEAVY CASED MICS AND WORK, I CANNOT SAY ANYTHING BAD REALLY A FEW MORE MICS FROM THIS AND THAT, HERE IS A TIP FOR FINDING A USUALLY VERY GOOD MIC THAT QUITE A LOT OF YOU WILL HAVE WITHOUT REALISING,,,, YOUR SURROUND SOUND SYSTEM COMES WITH A MIC THAT YOU PUT IN THE ROOM SO IT CAN SET ITSELF UP, TAKE THAT MIC AND PUT IT ON YOUR ACOUSTIC GIT OR BANJO ETC AND TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK? DOES IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE IF I GO INTO THE XLR OR 1/4 INPUT ON THE AMP? IS THE 1/4 INPUT BALANCED? I WAS TOLD IF YOU GO FROM XLR TO 1/4 INPUT YOU LOOSE SOME SIGNAL? THATS WHY I AM ASKING? CHEERS GARY -
To answer my own question, yes, this setting is on the HXS.
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Ooops.... my bad. Thanks for the correction, hurghanico. Sorry for the misinformation. tonee132.
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I had similar issues with blocks not appearing and still being heard. They would be invisible on the Helix floor screen. After using a pc with HX Edit, the blocks were in fact still there. I downgraded this mess back to 2.71 as I need a system that is more reliable. I hope Line 6 figures their stuff out sooner than later. This uniform code multi-platform mission is a disaster so far.
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Hello all, I hope you all can help me with an unusual question. I currently own a Pod HD500x, a Variax JTV 69, an M13, and a recent purchase of a Blackstar ID Core 100 amp to compliment my Fender Blues Jr. My question is that I'm thinking of purchasing the HX FX for some of the newer effects and IR capabilities and I do NOT want to rid myself of any of the old equipment due to saved presets, (Yes I'm a bit Lazy to recreate) and in the case of the Pod, Variax connectivity. Can I use the Pod to control and change presets on the Pod itself and the M13 and HX FX while using my Variax? I play simple acoustic shows, but also play within a cover band that covers a vast catalogue. The M13 is on a shelf in a Gator case and I intend to put the HX FX in the case on a shelf as well. I like using only one amp and with the Blackstar could use channel switching, which I know the HX can do, but not certain about the Pod's ability to control as well as all the others. I'm looking for routing, connection help with whatever is possible as well as any tutorials on programming the Pod to control everything. I wish the HX had Variax connectivity, but only my Pod does and I have to have it. Thank you for reading and hopefully helping me!
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here's how i do it.... name each preset by the song title (yes, some presets get saved multiple times because multiple songs uses the same settings) then, before the night begins.... you use the EDIT software to arrange your presets based on the night's set list it is easy to find in your patch storage folder on your computer all of your patches are in order and easy to access plus it is easy to know that your pod is on the right preset as the night goes on (especially in the event of some random incident)
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Is there any chance I could get access to this video. I just bought a DT25 and have a Helix. But I have no idea how to connect the two, do updates, etc.
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Thanks phil_m, Wish I’d kept my old Vetta, but I’m sure it’d sound dated by now anyway. mike
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On every device I've ever used with the squared USB port, the end of the cable clicks into place. That includes the HX Effects I have. The cables lock into the jack, no problem . On the Helix, the plug end just barely stays in, dangling downward. It is visibly larger than the one on the HX Effects. I found a Mickey Mouse solution, however. I cut a thin piece of electrical tape, wrapped it around the jack itself, which then fit more secureley into port/socket . Once I did that, I plugged the other end into a USB hub, which Line 6 apparently does not recommend. Worked like a charm. HX Edit now sees my unit and I can do all the functions on the computer.
