rd2rk

I'm pretty sure you're confusing "power consumption" and "power output". 250 watts is the OUTPUT wattage. That's RMS (continuous) vs PEAK, which would likely be around 500 watts. That's split between the LF and HF drivers, probably around 200/50. That results (per the published specs) in 125db SPL @ 1m. That's LOUD! For comparison, a 100w Marshall full stack puts out <>131db@1m. Class D amps (what's in the powercab) are (IIRC) <>90% efficient. Class AB amps much less (50%?) and Class A less than that (25%?). That means that the power CONSUMPTION should be around 275-300 watts. Per the OP's dilemma, I suspect that if he ran the PC112 at full crank (125db) it would sound like s**t and blow the speaker quickly. He'd also need hearing aids pretty quick. Realistically, the PC112 should sound good at 100-110db, and that's still pretty loud. Interesting discussion: 5W/20W/50W/100W SPL Levels For Amp Buyers | Marshall Amp Forum (marshallforum.com) Peak SPL Calculator (homestead.com)

If you're adjusting the output from the UA, you're increasing the INPUT to the PC and the clip indicator will light up. Once you have the clip indicator hitting amber you've optimized the INPUT to the PC. At that point if you're not getting enough output from the PC's speaker with the PC's Volume knob maxed, you must have a pretty loud band because lots of people use the PC112 and say it's plenty loud. There's a point where regardless of watts, one 1x12 speaker just isn't enough. That's why God invented the 4x12!

Better solution - Hum Eliminator. I use the Pyle PHE400. $30 on Amazon.

I'm not sure that I understand your question. Are you asking if it is a bug that you can do what you appear to want to do? If YES then NO, it is not a bug. It's the way it was designed to work.

If it only affects THAT preset, it's not a Helix problem. If it's a copy of another preset with a different amp/cab, you can try deleting the amp/cab, saving, then adding the amp cab back in. If it's still bad, delete the preset, and recreate it from the preset it's a copy of. Sometimes presets get corrupted because...

Those transmitters add latency to the signal and have batteries. Assuming the "horrible noise" is a ground loop (USB or audio) get a simple Hum Eliminator, it works for both, no latency or batteries and probably cheaper. I use the Pyle PHE400 - $30 on Amazon.

When wonky stuff happens out of the blue, start with a factory reset. Computer gremlins are real. Don't forget to back up first!

If you mean within a preset, switch to a mode where the footswitches ONLY send MIDI, no. You COULD assign unused snapshots to send a specific set of MIDI commands using the ICs (instant commands) without changing anything in the active preset.

In case you missed this in my reply to @datacommando, here it is again. The attached example preset uses snapshots assigned to a stomp fs. Best I could do, hope it works for you! gpicard5.hlx

Thanks. Does that make you Tonto? ;-) Tonto usually saves the LR's bacon, but gets his butt kicked a lot. Considering the grief I got over on TGF I'm feeling more like Tonto lately! At around 2:40 in the video, before he adds the trem, you can see him switching the amps. It looks like his clean amp is using the stock RED (DIM), but the lead amp is using another color. Maybe it's just the way his camera shows the red when it's LIT?

I got this to work using snapshots assigned to a footwitch, but still can't do it using a footswitch alone. Attached preset shows how I did it. gpicard5.hlx

@datacommando- as sometimes happens we were posting at the same time and you hit SAVE first, so when I saved your post appeared. I watched the video which is not very helpful regarding the OP's question. Dude is basically winging it and filming the video at the same time. Somehow he seems to have both amps using different colors and I can't figure out how. Can you?

If you mean the LED rings there's a setting: Global Settings>Displays>LED Rings Dim/Brt. The color of the LED Ring is assignable in Bypass/Controller Assign, but it will be one or the other, the color won't toggle. Which active effect causes the ring to be bright or dim can be changed by touching the switch if Global Settings>Preferences>Footswitches>Stomp Select is set to TOUCH or BOTH. If you mean the blocks in the signal chain I don't know of any way to do that. The active Block is always bright.

If you use Helix on a carpet it seems much harder than necessary. I solved this problem by getting a cheap little shelf from Home Depot to set my Helix on, but any stiff board will do. The switch is no more trouble than my Dunlop wah when used like this.

AFAICT, you can set the BlueBoard to control the footswitches with CC#s 49, 50 and 51, but the only VALUES it can send are 0 and 127. In the video, he is using the HXS Footswitch CCs (49,50,51) but he is already in SNAPSHOT MODE. In order to select Snapshots without already being in SS MODE you need to be able to send CC#69 with VALUES - 0 (SS1);1 (SS2);2 (SS3). In order to switch MODES using MIDI you need to be able to send CC#71 with values of 0-5. There are other relatively inexpensive wireless controllers which can send customizable values such as the Hotone Ampero Control.