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MartinDorr last won the day on February 19 2015

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    Arizona, U.S.A.
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  1. Apparently it took me too long to write the following … My preferred approach is to make volume changes at the very end of your modeling chain. While it is crucial to understand that channel volume in you amp model does not change the amp model’s tone, the result of changing channel volume may impact tone because it is essentially a drive knob for models that follow your amp(s). So if you change your volume at the very end of your model chain you get no tone impact in theory. BUT your ears will not play along, as things get louder or quieter your hearing will emphasis or suppress the volume of some frequencies and the apparent mix level of some effects, e.g., reverb. Thus you will need to compensate for example with global EQ or even changes in your patch. I’ve seen comments in the past that several players have tone/patch versions for performance and home practice volume levels. Hope this helps somewhat. The only consolation I can offer is that this is not a modeller-specific issue. Anyone using some gear to play louder and quieter will run into this. As there is no such thing as neutral volume control on real guitar amps or effects, using a modeler at least gives you more controls to address the issues coming along with playing at different volume levels.
  2. I think you might be able to use the Helix Digital outs (S/PDIF or AES/EBU) to connect to a Helix rack digitally and chain them with minimal latency (should be much better than USB). Add MIDI connections and you probably could control the Rack with the Helix floor. All theory though, I don’t own either.
  3. Yes, but that little thing on your guitar is doing this by changing essentially the Drive and for some Amps indirectly the Treble level, which is probably not what you’ld want, especially if your tone relies on a specific amount of hair or break up. You are way better off putting any volume adjustability post Amp or even after the last post amp effect.
  4. Not as fast and probably not as reliable for stage work, but you can also go wireless via BlueTooth with a MIDI tx/rx dongle that plugs into your MIDI ports. Can’t confirm this works on an HX Effects as I have an LT, but I don’t see why not. It’ s even cheaper and it can reliably work in a home environment with iPad based loopers or other MIDI based apps. Obviously this does not support audio like the camera kit would.
  5. Enjoy your LT. For me it is the most worry-free, capable, and enjoyable piece of music gear I ever owned. … but read the manual, all of it at least once! You may not need a lot of what your LT can do, but there will be times when you wonder whether it can or how to best do things and a few of your gray cells will report there was something possibly related in the manual.
  6. I appreciate your patience responding to a never ending flow of ideas on how the guitar amp modeler and effects world should rotate. The requirement of gain staging in the analog world has no or little necessity driven counterpart in a digital modeler like Helix. After one makes sure the signal level between modeling elements does not cause unwanted digital artifacts (excessive magnitude difference induced rounding errors), all what’s left to consider is whether a chosen input signal level to a model (selected by a preceding model’s output level) combined with the model’s parameter setting creates a desired effect. There is unprecedented freedom to exploit a model’s capability that did not exist in the analog world, simply because careful gain staging was a requirement to keep a lid in unwanted noise and distortion originating from excessive low and high signal levels. Happy to read your helpful posts when I would have given up to say anything. I sometimes wonder though if someone would have actually read the manual or just listened to his ears if nobody responded ...

    1. rd2rk


      Thanks for your kind words. I try to be helpful, but I think on this one the kudos go to DunedinDragon.

      I try to stick to topics that have objective solutions - physical routing, MIDI and such.

      On subjects like this - "How do I make it sound good?" my best advice is RTM and "twiddle the dials until it sounds good" as my best sounds have come about quite accidentally through doing just that. The parallels between modelers and the analog world really are remarkable, and most users would do well not to overthink it.


      It's a toy. Have fun! And, as the great man said, "Shut up and play yer guitar!"

  7. I have tried blending things, but with very limited improvements. The extra complications in the tone structure and plethora of parameter options just did not seem to be worth the trouble. Are you using any IRs with your Variax acoustic models and if yes, which ones worked best for you with the 5 Variax acoustic guitar models? Obviously it would be helpful if you could share a tone sample.
  8. Sorry for confusing your earlier advice. I missed the o in iPod. No idea whether there is a camera kit for an iPod or the one the OP has, and if there is, whether it works just like the one for an iPhone or iPad.
  9. No need for a mixer. Just get the camera kit and connect it’s USB end to your Helix and play your backing tracks or whatever audio you want to route directly to your Helix connected speaker system. You can trim the USB volume in globals. The iPad/iPhone volume controls do not control USB output.
  10. While clearly subjective, there are a few recording and teaching artists claiming that associating detailed mental imagery with songs or improvisations improves the ability of artists to express themselves during performance. Some good mental imagery may help to get the knobs right while fine-‘tuning’ your sound/instrument for the target song.
  11. No problem - enjoy your holidays and playing music ...
  12. Unless you have not already done so, download HX Edit 3.0. If that does not help and assuming you have a backup, do a Helix reset to factory defaults and restore all your settings from your backup.
  13. MartinDorr

    Big Sur

    Maybe it’s because 3.01 is a FW update only and by itself not dependent on MAC OS or computer processor behavior. Could be that Line 6 just expects a version update of HX Edit when the’ll be happy having passed Big Sur release qualification.
  14. I think this would be a good (and cheap (language independent)) improvement of the manual. I remember looking for the numbering scheme when I stumbled over the first instructions on doing various resets. While it was highly likely Line 6 would be using the ‘western’ practice of left to right and top down, doing different types of resets is not really something you want to do by trial error. Later reset instructions added how to identify the switches and all is good now. That said, the manual I believe, has quite a few references to switch numbers but never describes which number goes with which switch. Maybe I missed it ... Maybe a more productive feedback from an Uber Guru would be advice on how get real improvements into the manual update pipeline. As far as I gathered from past posts, Line 6 is unlikely to pick this feedback up from this Forum.
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