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PerS

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PerS last won the day on January 10

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About PerS

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  1. PerS

    Clipping Indicator

    The link to up-vote it - https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Powercab-Signal-LED-Level-indicator-to-show-up-in-PowerCab-Edit/1009166-23508. //Per
  2. No, you add one more Tilt :-) /Per
  3. Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select your Powercab model/leave it/your os in eatch box. You find firmware, PC Edit and if you don't have Hx Edit installed you need Installer and drivers. //Per
  4. I have added my vote on the link rd2rk supplied above, so you have two supporters now :-) Line6 place PC under AMPS, both on line6.com products and support so that should be good.
  5. Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/ you fine three dropdown boxes. Select Helix/Hx Edit/Windows 10 respectivly. The download contain all you need - Edit, drivers etc. When installing, do not deselect anything. Just click OK. //Per
  6. Hi I vote for it too. Have the same problem, have the PC+ behind me and don't see the LED at all if tilted with the "PC-tilt legs". I have placed the PC+ on a stand and have tilted just a little bit by lifting the front feet. That's enough to "hide" the LED. So an indicator in PC Edit would be welcome. Actually more important than the tuner in HX Edit as that tunder is right at your feet... Give us a link to your proposal and I vote for it.
  7. Hi I agree with brue58ski on the recommendation. Have been at bedroom player for some years now and went for the Helix LT three years ago. Been a Line6 user since many years through POD (the bean), POD XT. POD HD Pro and now the LT. If money is not is the obstacle, then I can highly recommend the LT. It’s a platform to grow in when you want/need to. It has all sound, flexibility in the workflow, all important technical feature and a great user interface. I recommend it base on that and that you can focus on having fun and not run into limitations that you may on POD Go and Helix Stomp (absolutely no bad choices, there are videos on YT comparing those with Helix Floor and they do well). My decision 3 years ago, to go to Helix LT (from POD HD Pro), was above and that I was trigger of the next level of sound quality and the flexibility the platform gave me. I have all the tools I need, to stay simple or do something complex and what I need in that moment. Some reflection. Learning curve – There is a learning curve to be aware of. It’s a platform that take some work and time (true for all modelers in this league). There are tons with videos and documentation giving general info and info drilling down in specific areas. This great user forums with users that help you when/if you got stuck. Speakers – There is users here that are more skilled in this area then me, they will correct me :-). If you play home a par of studio monitors will probably do, Yamaha HS 7 and 8 seems like popular references (search the forum). I have a par of passive PA-speakers and a power amp as my “FRFR”-speakers the last 10-12 years. Have the power amp connected to a mixer that hooks my Helix LT a soundcard from my PC and other sources, so I easily can have my PC as my “band mates” :-) and to record. A month ago, I invested in a Powercab 112 Plus. My motive for that was that bedroom player also want to have fun :-). Support - I did not leave Line6 as a platform as I set a high value on support and this is probably the best in class in this industry. But, that you get regardless based on what brue58ski proposed. So, I will have my 2 cent and a long motivation to go for the Helix LT. Take care… //Per
  8. Hi Go to https://line6.com/software/. In the dropdown fields select - Powercab 112 or 212, Powercab Edit and your os eg. win10/mac Should do the trick //Per
  9. Hi Thanks so much for reply and maybe ha hint of where to fund a solution @datacommando. I appreciate your feedback and seen your earlier around those subjects and if I didn’t know you were a Mac user, I could have bet you were a PC user :-). Made a quick check and the first link is what I have done, I had disabled suspending of USB. I have also in principle suspended all what power management can turn off under Power Options. I have made some of the steps under the second link too, but there are some parts I will dig into. There was also some interesting links on this page to more info. On this thread, I started to try digging into some of those problems. My bad lock was I got a 6 meter USB 2.0 cable. That was how I found that power setting on the USB-port had changed, pure luck… Thanks for your feedback //Per
  10. Hi This question is perhaps for @datacommando, or anyone who have a clue. Have had some USB-issues for a while, but the main problem is solved. Replaced the cable, PC <-> Helix, that was out of spec did the trick... I looked at the video that @datacommando published, thanks for publishing that by the way. First thought was “I already done this…”. But yesterday when I made some more investigations of my PC, I thought I make a check anyway and all found USB-ports had power management activated/selected. I know I both inactivated all power control both in Power Management setting and checked it in Device Manager during the optimization on my PC a few month ago (this PC was built in September, brand new). My network card had the power management disabled, made that at the same time. I went to the Power Management setup and the USB power management settings was activated… and this was deactivated not only for the USB-ports but all energy saving was inactivated. So, all settings in Power Management looked like they were back to default/basic scheme. So my question – Has anyone seen this happened? If so, what triggered it? An update (eg a large one like 20H2). Another configuration change that triggered enabling of power management? Operation/user error? I don’t say that I’m not the root cause... very possible, but don’t know what I can have done. Any clues? (gentle with me, I'm very sensitive:-) //Per
  11. Hi A short feedback on my tests with my new 5-meter cable. I have now for three days tried out my new USB-cable. Cable is marked USB revision 2.0, 26AWG/1P and 22AWG/2C, so obvious USB 2.0 specifications and the individual cords are a bit “chunkier”/thicker (sorry, English is not my native…) then my 3-meter cable. It also has ferrite cores on each end. My motive to pick this cable was based on part what axeel_b described and parts I found looking at the standard and some design rules. I have assumed that Line6 has built the USB communication according to the USB 2.0 standard and with that in mind set my focus on cable quality/how its built, drivers and PC configuration. So, I have pushed my PC to handle many USB-streams (tried to use all used USB-ports, mainly Helix and soundcard, but also mouse and keyboard) and many applications (running video incl sound, loaded other applications like Office 365, Chrome etc.) at the same time. Including tests I made in the video published earlier in this post, eg backup. At no time did I have any interruption, BSOD or any trouble to do what I “needed”. Helix/HX Edit did not interrupt once. Backup that had 100% fail on the 6 meter cable hade 100% success on every attempt to run backup or operate my Helix on the new 5 meter cable. I have a few more things to look over to “secure” a stable operation, will be back with my findings in more detail. //Per
  12. Found this in another thread. Wonder if this can be another part of the lose connection puzzle? The later comment in the last post above added some comment that Line6 uses the latest version of “libusb” (in the original post that was an assumption that they didn’t). It worked when johnny-longtorso manually installed the library but not as Line6 driver package. One thought he have is that multiple drivers could be installed on the PC (could also explain why I haven’t seen this as I uninstall and clean remains from the old installation, have only hade the cable issue and what I filed a ticket on – BSOD when turning of my PC and haven’t closed HX Edit), but no clue why it didn’t work on the MAC. Could be a long shot, but what isn’t until there is a answer… //Per
  13. Hi axeel_b I think this is great news. Troubleshooting at this level means both finding clues and eliminating things that have nothing to do with it. So, instead see this that we may have another clue to solve the problem. You never know even rd2rk may appreciate the findings on day when the backup doesn't work :-). Like I said before, do not think this is one problem causing this. But it can also actually be the case that the same problem cause different symptoms on different machines (endless with combinations of how a PC can be configured in hw/sw). My PC was built about 5 months ago. MB is an Asus Z490-A, processor Intel Core i5 10600K 4.1 GHz and the power supply is a Seasonic FOCUS PX 550W. Hope this has enough power to drive my USB-ports. I ordered a new USB-cable today (would have bought it in town but reread your post and saw what you said about ferrite cores on the cable). I bought a 5-meter USB cable (I know, not 1-meter...), AWG 22/26 (ie a little thicker signal path, the one I have which is 3-meters and works has AWG 22/28) and ferrite cores at both ends (and the price was $ 18 incl shipping ;-). If my MB might have enough power capacity, then maybe it can work. Actually, do not know what to do otherwise... Regardless, I, and think I speak for more users than me, appreciate your knowledge and all the work you put into this to find a solution to a very annoying problem. Many thanks for doing that... I report back in my findings with my new cable, will get it tomorrow evening. //Per
  14. Hi rd2rk 30 minutes ago i find out that the delivery of my 5 mtr cable was a 6 mtr cable and for about third of the price. So a $18 cable was a $7 no spec cable. If I order the wrong one or if they delivered another I will try to find out. Anyway, the cable is a peace of crap and do exactly what i recorded on the video. And it failed again this afternoon when I was playing. The sentence is, a cable of bad quality cable will give trouble, cheap or expensive. My 3 meter that works is not a $600 cable from Magnolia Hi-fi snobs department. It came from a lokal store and if I remember correct I paid about $12 for it. I had to exchange the cable that came with my Helix three years ago, I constantly lost connection. Tomorrow I will go to the same store and by a 5 meter one of the same brand as my 3 meter. If it's to long for this application will show later. If it works I will change the one to my PC+ too. If you have trouble find a dealer, I can see if I can find one selling $600 cables for you. If you want 10 they can probably make a special order for you for just a little extra. But, I don't think you need that expensive cables, just the right quality. Something like what axeel_b described. //Per
  15. Hi all and hope transition from 2020 to 2021 went well I will give you my comment on this and I think you are on to one part of the problem around USB problem. I think cable length matters and the quality of the cable. Probably also the behavior of the USB-port. Most likely hub or no hub. But it is a lot of other dependencies… I have had some USB-related problems from beginning of 2020. Have reported this to Line6 and also in the helix bug report in this forum, here - Don’t know if this is related to the same findings you have axeel_b, but during the investigation and testing I found some interesting behavior close to what you describe, and I got it on tape… I made some optimization of my rigg during the Christmas holidays, I added a Powercab Plus 112 and had to rearrange my studio corner including my earlier 3 meter/10 feet USB cables had to be exchanged for 5 meter/17 feet ones. All vent well and worked perfectly. I got a suggestion from Line 6 Support (they are so good). I went through the suggestions and thought they nailed the problem. Sorry to say but the day after I hade the same problem as described on the link above. Have upgraded the ticket with my findings and changes I made on my way to narrow down the problem. During some more troubleshooting I find what’s on the tape, link below. The recording shows four things: First part a test run that went normal. I start up my system, starts HX Edit and run a backup. This is done with the 3 meter cable. All running normal. Second part I do the same thing but this time with the 5 meter cable. I run the backup and all goes well until it reach backup of the presets, then it fails. And this was what I found a few days ago, the length/cable quality do matters. I can repeat this over and over. The recording is done on the first take (even if the camera stop and I had to restart it…) and by some reason it lose the connection at the same point, always when it comes to back up presets. Third and fourth part shows when running a set list backup. Again it fails when backing up presets. I tested this before and it did not matter what preset list I picked (in case on preset are causing it...). This time I only did it on one set list. What also happened this time, in the end of the recording, it got my PC to freeze… that has never happened before. Nothing else was running, hade to reboot the PC. One sequence I also show that my 5 meter cable work perfect when using the HX Edit to changing presets, changing amps etc. During backup it fails coming to presets. The recording is to be found here (probably the most boring 6 minutes on Internet) - https://www.dropbox.com/s/x0l8t8yj2sve9cl/HX%2C USB BU failed.mp4?dl=0 So my conclusion is that the cable is important (quality and length). I have never used a 1 meter cable as my PC has not been close enough, but 2 and 3 meter frequently. I have had problems with some of those cables and shifted them out. I have had problems with USB-ports but always found one that worked. My brand new 5 meter USB cable does work except during backup of presets. My 3 meter cable works perfectly. When I got the PC+ I also ordered the 5 meter USB cables, one for HX and one for the PC+ (if price matters, they were not the cheapest... I check whats written in the cable and make an update). I have not seen any problems on the PC+ related to USB-communication. I will be most interested to see where this is going. At his point I think the USB/cable-problem is just one part in this story (me saying that referring to my first link and what I see in different forums). The PC itself is a challenge itself due to all hw/sw combinations and configurations and depending how it is maintained (or not) by the user. Not an easy task to solve… //Per
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