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PerS

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PerS last won the day on February 3

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  1. The reset you did should have taking care of this but in case it didn’t… As you connect via the input jacks you have the possibility to set the gain for the Input 1 and 2. You can check/control this on the menu on the PC+ or via PC Edit under the “system” tab in upper right corner, see attached pic (my Input 2 is used to connect my Variax direct via XPS box for acoustic. Added +12db to level it with my Helix LT, which I control via Helix/L6-Link according to what PaulTBaker describes). Try to turn down the Gain and see what happens. In special if it is set above 0 db. //Per Don't know why, but can't load the pic, link to my dropbox... https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9c5u779n614ks9dsu3yog/L6-Power-Cab-Editor-System-P1.0-01.jpg?rlkey=hlo147uydup4qowah9eawgy4w&dl=0
  2. I get the same result as klangmaler, can’t find that driver either. Tried to search for it in different combinations, no hit. rd2rk, Sure you don’t have a VIP or an early adapter account? :-) Is the fix only for Core Isolation-problems? I run Win10 and has no problem with that. //Per
  3. Well, in the article you refer>> to it’s stated “Impedance-balanced TRS”. That means it’s not unbalanced, it’s “pseudo balance” technique used and behaves similar to and in most cases equivalent to a full balanced output. I don’t dare to explain it technical in case your needs depend on it… Here are two, one in depth and one “more balanced”. • https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-how-impedance-balancing-audio-different-normal-balancing • https://faq.yamaha.com/sg/s/article/000021463 If you search for “impedance balanced vs balanced” you get a picture of how it works and check that to your use case. //Per
  4. Hi This topic was "reopened" in December, might be a solution if you like to build things yourself... :-) The second solution will take care of the ground loop problem. But notice that it is built in a plastic box. If you build it in a metallic box you have to isolate the connectors from chassi, preferably on the relay side, from the ground. Or, use a three-pin connector (on the relay-side), eg a XLR, and ground will be on one of the pin's. Assumes one or two relay contacts can do the job. Slightly different depending on how the logic looks depending on the amplifier. May mean some form of supplementary logic is required in addition to the relay contacts. However, it is a good starting point to break the ground loop. Oh, and if you just need one switch you just build half of the schematic... :-) //Per
  5. Hi Sorry if I misunderstand something here (not English native so translation and reference to so quotes may fail…) If your Win 7/Chrome PC is trying to autostart the Helix Firmware file that’s a PC problem. I don’t think an exchange of HX Stop unit will help you in this case. The problem starts already when you download the firmware. HX Stomp is not in the loop at that point. I guess your PC-problem also start the installation package when you download the Edit or the Updater software (witch by the way is included in the HX Edit package). Most likely with a warning that it’s a .exe-file. And that’s fine in most cases, if you know the source of the download. In this case, not so much. If you can’t turn off this “download auto start” I would propose this. Unplug your HX Stomp by removing the USB cable (just turning the Stomp off does not help). Uninstall the old HX Edit package, as you mentioned. After uninstalling reboot. Check that there are no software or drivers left under intalled applications/functions Line 6, if so uninstall them) (Those first bullits are to ensure that all remaining software/drivers is removed) Go to another PC that does not have this auto start download problem and download - The latest HX Edit package (3.70) for Windows 7 The latest firmware for HX Stomp (3.71) Copy those files to a USB Drive Copy those files to a suitable directory on your PC (i.g. your download directory) Install the HX Edit package and reboot your PC. Plug the USB cable back in. Now, follow the instructions by the letter in datacommando’s post above>>. Remember – Do not run HX Edit and HX Updater at the same time, close the one not in use. Otherwise, you lose this connection with your HX Stomp… Hope this can be of any help (and that I did not missunderstand your problem, if so I’m sorry..) //Per
  6. Hi Here is the Factory Setlist 1 and 2. Download is from my dropbox in one zip-file per factory setlist, the zip's contains the the individual presetes (not the setlist backup). You can drag and drop the presets you whant to test into your prefered location in HX Edit. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/r6lc743kvcj6io401qnkn/L6-HX-Prests-Factory1.zip?rlkey=9506wbx9z0nzdvucafkb2x2qk&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ehww9fl7cz37d6yvlbbm5/L6-HX-Prests-Factory2.zip?rlkey=v2jrdhjbb3dhmxstdyrv54anx&dl=0 //Per
  7. Hi If I understand you correctly you run acoustic sim on your Helix and use an electric guitar. I don’t but perhaps this can be useful anyway… Use the preamp section of the amps in some presets (acoustic preset with my Variax, acoustic Gibson and Dobro type of guitars). The preamps I use at this point are WhoWatt, Princess and Archetype Clean. Thay add some character to the tone, both for chords and soling, but I bet there is more pre’s that would work, like US Deluxe, Jazz Rivet etc, just try them. I will try the new amps and have some hope for Clarity, will see how that works. I have used the Kinky Boost and Studio Preamp in front for boost or added character. My signal chain is quite traditional, I think. Compressor in the first block, e.g. Deluxe Comp, LA Studio and even an Ampeg opto, some eq’ing and a little reverb. That will probably look different for you as going electric with sim, poly capo and electric guitar. But the preamps can be worth trying … //Per
  8. Above are good choices, :-), but there is also a L6 Edit Pilots Guide 3.70 for your device. Lot of good stuff in there if you want details and to get the info from “the horse's mouth. https://line6.com/support/manuals/ //Per
  9. Hi So, I have updated my cheat sheet (pdf-version) and for you who are interested just download it from the link below (from my Dropbox). All the new amp’s, cab’s and effects are in there, marked with a red “N”, incl DSP and some other additional info. Legacy devices are marked with a red “L”. All are sorted in order of appearance on the unit, in their respective group. DSP-values for the new products are from me, but I have used the same method as Ben Vesco has used, published, and described very well on his great site (unfortunately not updated). If anyone has found a value that differs from mine, please let me know. There is a slight difference depending on which blocks are used when trying out the numbers. I have used blocks from Ben’s “reference material” to minimize errors and to get continuity. I have used two different setups and if those have a variation bigger than 0,5 (in relative %) I have used a third setup. Think it’s hard to get any closer. “Last device” is always at least one volume pedal at the end, in mono (0,47%) and/or in stereo (0,61%), what’s ever slips in :-), so that would be the tolerance... All devices are in preamp/full amp (cab’s are not incl, presented separate, but as default cab’s incl DSP, are in the sheet with the amp’s), stereo/mono, single/dual etc. where applicable. In an earlier version I did also publish the cheat sheet in a MS Excel 365 format, a DSP calculator. I will make that update but need some more time to finish it (want to play some guitar too…). Download the cheat sheet from my Dropbox (pdf-format) – https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8vsyuiehgd6ofjryw6g9q/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3-70.pdf?rlkey=k3yyscizqbi1z80ozmo6gsihi&dl=0 Great update Line6, very impressive work. Thought I had all I needed before this update, but was I wrong, there were a few more I didn’t know about, eg. the US Dripman (!), some of the Catalyst amp’s, 2203 and the ODR-1, wow :-) Have fun (I will…)! //Per
  10. Just a longshot… your recording sounded like the Hofner was quieter, but in case that was just a technicality in the recording – If you have any block in your preset where you can change the “Headroom” (like e.g. Vintage Delay, Adriatic Delay, Transistor tape), turn it up and se if it make any difference. If it is set to low it can/will clip the signal. Well, at least worth trying before changing cables and mic’s :-) By the way, the preset you supplied is a “php”-file, not a preset, so I could not check it out. //Per
  11. V.3.61 is bugfix update of Edit. No firmware update on Helix, still 3.60. So you did it successfull :-) /Per
  12. Agree, hope OP will. But it’s actually a funny story on this with Google translate… A few years ago, I proposed to my gf that we should go to Italy on vacation. So, I wrote her a mail asking her if she would like to go with me describing how fun and romantic it would be, Florens in April… Just to make it more interesting I came up with the bright idea to translate the mail to Italian. My advice is - Check the translation both ways before sending it. Conclusion is I’m surprised she didn’t slap me :-) We had a great time and had a good laugh about it. Take care //Per
  13. I made a copy of the included Allure IR's (my PC+112) in case of an "accident"... Below is a list how they where loaded by default Pos IR/Name 1- Allure_64_A30_G12.wav 2- Allure_59_Tweed_P10N.wav 3- Allure_64_USDeluxe_P12N.wav 4- Allure_67_Brit_Greenback.wav 5- Allure_70s_WhoWatt_100.wav 6- Allure_90s_Cali_V30.wav //Per Allure-Pack-IRs.zip
  14. Oh, sorry somebodyelse, I forgot to include the English translation in the post, impolite of me. Usually do that but was probably so exited to answer in Swedish :-] A couple of days ago I found out that there is a Global Reset on the PC itself, if you press the “Home/house button” and scroll down the menu. Think it was last in the list. I don’t think that is described in the manual… Haven’t tried it but would be surprised if it wouldn’t restore everything to default. Still a good Idea to make the backup because it will delete all IR’s and presets if you made your own. //Per
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