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PerS

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PerS last won the day on January 7

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About PerS

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    Just Startin'

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    Sweden
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  1. PerS

    Rebuilding my pedalboard

    Hi I have a Helix LT with an “external” pedalboard, a few pedals I can’t leave – a compressor, my EP boost (different characteristic from the one in the helix) and my Monty Allums moded Boss BD2. Together with my wireless, Variax pwr unite, a Boss NS2 and an ISO transformer all mounted on a PT Novo 18. This is what’s left of my big board used with my PD HD Pro. Today they are all connected in serial. I would like to integrate it closer to the Helix and using a loop switch so I can turn the comp, EP and the BD2 on/off through a loop switch via MIDI from Helix and assigned switches. I have now drilled this down to two loop switches – G-Lab MIDI 4x Looper (fit on top of the board) and Decibel 11 Loop Extender (fit underneath the board). Price and size have mattered. I also looked at Voodolab HEX looks great but it’s expensive and more than I need, I think. I had an RJM Effect Gizmo, too big to fit my small board, so I sold it (a dream to use). So, my questions to you who have experience from loop switches in general and G-lab/Decibel 11 in particular. Any recommendation and what I should think of? Experience with the G-lab vs Decibel 11? Thanks //Per
  2. PerS

    Songbook with Helix?

    Hi Is this what you are looking for? https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/page-3062#post-28096505
  3. PerS

    can't open Line 6 updater file

    Good to hear Yes. it is a fantastic device. Inspires to to thing you didn't know you could do... and have just scratch the surface. //Per
  4. PerS

    can't open Line 6 updater file

    Do this If you have the old Edit installed a good practice is to make a backup if you have patches an IRs you like to be sure to keep. Go to - https://line6.com/software/ and in the first column select you Helix hardware and in the third column select you mac os and press Go Scroll down to HX Edit 2.71 and press Get Download. You should now start the download. If you are not loged in you will be prompted to do so before it will start. When finished click on the file (I do not know Mac so you need to help me out...) and make the installation. It includes all files - Edit, drivers and updater. Run Edit and see that it starts. Close Edit (important) and start Updater. You should now see your Helix and you sw version. Follow the instructions and run update of the new firmware. I always let the updater do the download. You can download firmware manually end pick it up in the updater. Rest it done by the updater and Helix. Except that you need to accept terms and start update. I always restart the Helix after finish update. Just to be safe... don't know if needed. Sure that someone will correct or add info if forgot something EDIT - Forgot to say, what I know there is no zip'ed files in the download (run PC and have never seen one there). You just make an ordinary installation on your Mac of the HX Edit program with the downloaded file from above. If you downloaded the Helix firmware earlier, its a binary file and can’t be opened or executed. It is installed via the updater into the Helix, see instruction above. Good luck //Per
  5. PerS

    Don’t know if I dare…

    But I do it anyway. Caught a cold over the Christmas holidays so the strength was not on top. What to do… Well, why not some Excel-micros :-). So, what to program? … a DSP-calculator maybe. Done! It has its flaws, but it seems to work. Useful, thought to hear what the pros say, I mean you… It contains both the DSP-calculator (dual paths and main and sub on each path) and my earlier cheat sheet (ready to be printed or exported to pdf if you like) as a quick reference. It includes all up to 2.6. Main DSP-numbers are mainly from the Helix DSP Values.xlsx, with some add-ons from other sources. Even in a few cases I have guest the numbers... The future will show if I guessed correct. There are some more notations in the DSP-calculator file. So, test it if you want. Constructive feedback is welcome. If it’s of any use I may keep it updated and even add features. Hope you had a great Christmas and wish you all a Happy New Year. 2.8 is waiting... Please find the calculator below. Have fun... //Per Helix DSP Calculator -P1.1-05.xlsx
  6. Hi Don't know if this helps you, but I made a cheat sheet to have at hand - https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6pvbv1l0t0b5cf/Line6 Helix-Model Summary%2C 2%2C60-P1.0-01.pdf?dl=0. If you like quick info it's handy. If you like it in on-line format there is some sites online. I included this one - http://www.helixhelp.com/, with great info and very useful. I also included another address in the document (could not include it in the post by some reason...) to a forum post with massive info about all models. One on the info sources I used for my document above. I actually think this is the original info that is used on the helixhelp-site. Anyway, really a great job on both places. Enjoy. //Per
  7. You can turn the touch sense off in the setup menu. Then you can use it with or without socks and don't need to have shoes on indoors... //Per
  8. If you go back to playback sound device and select inactivate/disable (I have swedish version so something similar and press OK, you should be good. Now you can't use it as sound card but everything else should work. I acually use it this way as I had the same problem. Cheers /Per
  9. PerS

    Finished my pedalboard!

    That’s a great idea ... Had an idea that you could only use a suitable bag such as the one in a suitcase to pack shirts in, but maybe a bit stronger/durable, flat square lying loose on top of the Helix. Didn't think of your method... Your method looks interesting. It also means I have to ask how you “fixed” the Helix in the case? Assuming that the cover with the padding do not reaches the Helix, so what’s keeping the Helix in place, preventing it to movewhen lifting the case? I was thinking to fix the Helix with Velcro attached on two or three places underneath. Velcro put on two or three discs/plates, which means that I do not have to remove the feet and keeping the ventilation around the device. Worked on a MIDI board I had before (hade to strips of aluminum with Velcro on both sides width of the Velcro), but the Helix is heavier so have to do some experimenting on this. Or you might have the solution. Have looked at several types of cases, including tailor made, but they are a little too narrow or too wide for what I want to use it for. Yours looks good, but Amazon do not ship to Sweden... Has found one from Swan Flight Cases and one from Rock Case Flight case. The problem with both is that I would like to add a separate expression pedal later and both are a bit too narrow or the next size will be huge. Keep on looking… Will check out the RockBoard mod-moules. Also interesting. The thing is that I have split my gear into two pieces, Helix and a future expression pedal (will go into a case) and one with some irreplaceable pedals… , wireless rx, power switch for my Variax and some more. All mounted on a PT Novo 18. //Per
  10. PerS

    Finished my pedalboard!

    Looks really good, clean and compact... Who made the case and what is the size. On my way to make something simillar./ Inspiring... //Per
  11. PerS

    Show Us Your Helix Rig Setup

    Nice rigg to troubleshoot when sound goes dead quiet...
  12. PerS

    Show Us Your Helix Rig Setup

    Is that a lead where the Helix is hiding... in the trousers of your drummer? :-)
  13. PerS

    If it's of interest...

    Hi Another update of my Cheat Sheet, Line6 Helix Model Summary, if anyone are intereted. Up to date with 2.60 update and all amps, cabs, mics and effects are in order of appearance on the unite. Still the same format Download from my Dropbox - https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6pvbv1l0t0b5cf/Line6 Helix-Model Summary%2C 2%2C60-P1.0-01.pdf?dl=0 Have fun //Per
  14. PerS

    Hummmm

    Sorry for late reply... The problem I run into when was that the grounding between the units was through the shield of the audio cables. As my power sockets was not grounded and was using two different sockets, this resulted in two potentialdifferent depending in what extension cord the unites where plugged in to. This current was even out through the shield in the audio cables. So when I was trouble shooting I unplugged all audio cables. Stared the power amp no noise. Added the mixer, no noise. My mistake now was to add the usb cable from the computer connected to the other socket... I saw the sparc between the cable and my XT. The usb was gone. If i would have added the audio cable from the XT to the mixer I would've been ok. So the solution in my case was those things * I made a grounding of the two different extensions so all equipment was on same level. I also extended the grounding to a real grounding point. My rack+pedal board and my pc. * I rearranged all cabling in my rack. Power on one side and signals on the other side. * Added a power conditioner, Furman, taking care of all power in rack and two my pedal board. * Disconnected one fluorescent lamp and one halogen lamp with noisy transformer. Still had some hummm so the solution was the Lehle transformer in audio cable between my pedal board and rack. All dead quiet... Today I have a smaller pedalboard, Pedal train Nano, with my Shure tuner, Variax power, BD2, Echoplex boost and Lehle transformer. Signal chain is Guitar -> A/B/Y -> tuner/pedal chain -> Lehle transformer -> Helix -> Mixer (sampson rack type) -> Power amp (InterM 500) -> Speakers (modded hifi tuned for guitar, more like pa speakers, homemade :-). If I remove the Lehle I get back the hummmm. The Lehle transformer is this - https://moodysounds.com/produkt/p-split-kit/. I bought the transformer, the kit didn't exist then, but it's the same. Conclution is - All attached units at the same ground level, should not even out in the audio cables. Break the chain with a transformer. In your case I would try a different pc in the first step. The Lehle transformer can be handy anyway, but will probably not help if the charger or pc inject hum. And now sorry for a long reply :-) Chears /Per
  15. PerS

    Hummmm

    Hej garbanzo Va roligt, tror det första gången det blir svenska här... Eftersom du har brum även utan PC'n ansluten så är nog de två senaste tipsen vägen att fortsätta. Kan bara tillägga att undvika härvor av kablar, speciellt med både el och signalkablar. Samt att när du kopplar loss allt och kopplar samman, ha utrustningen avstängd. Jag blåste en USB-port pga att jorden inte funkade mellan min mixer och min gamla POD XT... Dvs alla ändringar görs med strömmen avstängd. Oavsett så borde det funka. Kikade på förstärkaren och ser inget konstigt. En enkel test - Du kan ju prova en EQ i slutet av signalkedjan, t.ex. Lo Cut/Hi Cut, och ställa LoCut på t.ex. 110 Hz. Det du hör borde vara 50 eller 100 Hz. Bara som en test för satt se om det kommer signalvägen eller ej. Sorry guys, my bad... couldn't resist to comunicate in swedish for the first time on this forum (been here since POD 1.0). If curious, Google translate :-) Chears //Per
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