rd2rk

If you're adjusting the output from the UA, you're increasing the INPUT to the PC and the clip indicator will light up. Once you have the clip indicator hitting amber you've optimized the INPUT to the PC. At that point if you're not getting enough output from the PC's speaker with the PC's Volume knob maxed, you must have a pretty loud band because lots of people use the PC112 and say it's plenty loud. There's a point where regardless of watts, one 1x12 speaker just isn't enough. That's why God invented the 4x12!

The HXS allows for 3 snapshots per preset, so you'll need 2 presets to accomplish your goal.

Better solution - Hum Eliminator. I use the Pyle PHE400. $30 on Amazon.

I'm not sure that I understand your question. Are you asking if it is a bug that you can do what you appear to want to do? If YES then NO, it is not a bug. It's the way it was designed to work.

If it only affects THAT preset, it's not a Helix problem. If it's a copy of another preset with a different amp/cab, you can try deleting the amp/cab, saving, then adding the amp cab back in. If it's still bad, delete the preset, and recreate it from the preset it's a copy of. Sometimes presets get corrupted because...

Those transmitters add latency to the signal and have batteries. Assuming the "horrible noise" is a ground loop (USB or audio) get a simple Hum Eliminator, it works for both, no latency or batteries and probably cheaper. I use the Pyle PHE400 - $30 on Amazon.

When wonky stuff happens out of the blue, start with a factory reset. Computer gremlins are real. Don't forget to back up first!

If you mean within a preset, switch to a mode where the footswitches ONLY send MIDI, no. You COULD assign unused snapshots to send a specific set of MIDI commands using the ICs (instant commands) without changing anything in the active preset.

In case you missed this in my reply to @datacommando, here it is again. The attached example preset uses snapshots assigned to a stomp fs. Best I could do, hope it works for you! gpicard5.hlx

Thanks. Does that make you Tonto? ;-) Tonto usually saves the LR's bacon, but gets his butt kicked a lot. Considering the grief I got over on TGF I'm feeling more like Tonto lately! At around 2:40 in the video, before he adds the trem, you can see him switching the amps. It looks like his clean amp is using the stock RED (DIM), but the lead amp is using another color. Maybe it's just the way his camera shows the red when it's LIT?

I got this to work using snapshots assigned to a footwitch, but still can't do it using a footswitch alone. Attached preset shows how I did it. gpicard5.hlx

@datacommando- as sometimes happens we were posting at the same time and you hit SAVE first, so when I saved your post appeared. I watched the video which is not very helpful regarding the OP's question. Dude is basically winging it and filming the video at the same time. Somehow he seems to have both amps using different colors and I can't figure out how. Can you?

If you mean the LED rings there's a setting: Global Settings>Displays>LED Rings Dim/Brt. The color of the LED Ring is assignable in Bypass/Controller Assign, but it will be one or the other, the color won't toggle. Which active effect causes the ring to be bright or dim can be changed by touching the switch if Global Settings>Preferences>Footswitches>Stomp Select is set to TOUCH or BOTH. If you mean the blocks in the signal chain I don't know of any way to do that. The active Block is always bright.

If you use Helix on a carpet it seems much harder than necessary. I solved this problem by getting a cheap little shelf from Home Depot to set my Helix on, but any stiff board will do. The switch is no more trouble than my Dunlop wah when used like this.

AFAICT, you can set the BlueBoard to control the footswitches with CC#s 49, 50 and 51, but the only VALUES it can send are 0 and 127. In the video, he is using the HXS Footswitch CCs (49,50,51) but he is already in SNAPSHOT MODE. In order to select Snapshots without already being in SS MODE you need to be able to send CC#69 with VALUES - 0 (SS1);1 (SS2);2 (SS3). In order to switch MODES using MIDI you need to be able to send CC#71 with values of 0-5. There are other relatively inexpensive wireless controllers which can send customizable values such as the Hotone Ampero Control.

We cannot agree to disagree on this subject because it works the way it works and that is easy enough to prove. Set your Globals as follows: Preferences: SS Edits = RECALL SS Reselect = RELOAD MIDI: SS CC Send = ON On a New Preset set IC1 on SS1 to send a CC# other than 0. I assume that you are using a MIDI Monitor to track what the Helix is sending. Select SS1. What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 0 and whatever you set on IC1. Reselect SS1. What's sent is ONLY CC#69 with a Value of 0. Select SS2. What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 1 and CC#0 Value 0. Reselect SS1.What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 0 and whatever you set on IC1. Now go back to Global>MIDI and disable "Snapshot CC Send" (OFF). Repeat the above sequence. Everything related to IC messages remains the same. CC#69 is no longer sent. "Snapshot CC Send" does NOT affect IC function, it ONLY enables/disables sending of CC#69 on SS select. I am not relating this from memory. I followed the procedure I described so that I would be certain that this test will prove what I'm saying. I've been using CommandCenter since the day it was released (LONG ago). You are not the first to be confused by this. I may have been the first :-P If you still don't believe it, contact support and ask them.

When I said that it enables automatically sending i did not mean that it enables automatically, I meant that it enables the snapshots to automatically (Globally, and by default) to send CC#69 on snapshot selection. No. "Snapshot CC Send" ONLY enables/disables sending of CC#69. Sending anything via IC is ALWAYS enabled. "Snapshot CC Send" has NO effect on the IC functions.

"Snapshot CC Send" enables/disables automatically sending CC#69 when a snapshot is selected, not CCs assigned to ICs or Switches. You only need that enabled if you're controlling a second Helix or recording MIDI to automate a performance. It works the same way as "MIDI PC Send", which enables/disables sending the default PC# but does not affect PC#s assigned to ICs or Switches. The reason it seems like it doesn't work when all ICs send the same command (apart from the above explanation) but appears to work when the ICs send different commands is because once a command is sent on an IC, it won't be sent again until a different command is sent.

The problem with these multi-board confabulations is that each FX Loop adds <>3.6ms latency (1.8 Helix S/R+1.8 HXFX S/R) to the Helix's <>3ms end to end latency. It also adds two additional potential cable fail points. If you're connecting two Helixes, using SPDIF eliminates one of the converter latencies, but the SPDIF cables/connections themselves are not very robust and can only be used to connect the two boards In to Out to IN like one giant serial device loop. It enables creation of the ultimate "kitchen sink" preset to be sure but, TBH, until the advent of the poly pitch and feedbacker FX, I never had a situation where I ran out of DSP with my Helix. The Helix/HXFX routing described above adds up to less than the RIAA recognized 10ms threshold of latency perception - slightly more if you use both loops, but still not really perceptible to most people - but add a wireless, that's another 1.8ms + a frelling BATTERY and potential 2.5mhz band external interference... It adds up. I'd rather minimize all that and just stick with my Helix all by its lonesome and connect my guitar with an old-fashioned cable. Well, new-fangled low-capacitance cable, but you get the picture. High-tech minimalism! In fact, since I got my Catalyst I off-load the delay and reverb to the Cat, save Helix DSP and don't even need 4cm anymore! Works for Me!

It's kind of like having 1024 HUGE pedalboards and being able to add your choice of 128 satellite boards, on demand, anywhere in the signal chain.

Since the HXFX doesn't have the Input Auto Impedance feature you might want to run your guitar into Helix, use a Helix Send to the HXFX Input, HXFX Send back to Helix Return, Helix amp, Helix Send 2 to HXFX Return, HXFX Send 2 back to Helix Return 2>Helix Main Outs. By combining both Helix Paths (1A->2A) and placing the FX Loop Blocks wherever the DSP is needed you've increased your total DSP by 50% and retained the versatility of the Auto Impedance feature. Keep in mind though that the Auto Impedance will only be affected by the Blocks preceding the first Send to the HXFX, as the Send is set at 1M.

The flashing USB icon is telling you there's no connection. Yes, it's unfortunate that there's no manual. I suspect that's a necessary cost saving move, since it would need to be translated into several languages and re-translated with any updates that occur. The Catalyst is a budget amp and I'd rather pay less for it than pay for translations. The good news is that Catalyst Edit is a pretty simple app and most icons can be figured out by mouse clicking (right/left and whatever the MAC kids do) on the icons and studying the results. If you're still confused feel free to ask here!

The Ruby is a VOX type AIAB. You'll likely be using it in place of the HXS amps. You'll want it in an FX Loop placed after WAH, OD and possibly MODs. Unless you're going for classic surf or Pink Floyd type ambient effects you'll usually want it placed before delays and reverbs. The Golden is a Reverb and the Galaxy is a Tape Echo (delay) and Reverb. As mentioned, the usual place for these is after the amp. All 3 are stereo. The HXS has only ONE stereo loop. If you want to use all of them in stereo they'll need to be placed all together in the FX Loop or hard wired pre or post HXS. Again, unless you're going for special FX you'll most likely want the Reverb/Delay at the end of the signal chain so the Galaxy/Golden can go between the Main Outputs and mixer/powered speakers/amps to conserve FX Blocks/DSP. If you're a Ventures/Floyd fanatic you might want them BEFORE the HXS. Keep in mind that if you place them before the HXS, you probably don't want to use much else (especially dirt) before the Ruby, as reverb into dirt generally doesn't sound all that great. That leaves the Ruby. ITRW, Vox amps are not stereo. The only reason to use it like that is if you want your signal chain to be end-to-end stereo. For instance, you might want certain MOD FX before the amp but want them in stereo. Keep in mind that if you place any MONO Block after a STEREO Block the signal is collapsed to MONO. Lastly, I mentioned the difference between placing delay/reverb before or after the amp (the Ruby). Your options are limited in terms of flexibility when you run full stereo. Running MONO you could put the Ruby in one MONO FX Loop and the Galaxy in the other. That would allow you the option of placing the Galaxy/Golden pre or post Ruby depending upon what you're after in a given preset. You can't do that if the Galaxy/Golden is hard wired pre or post the HXS itself. Hope I've provided some food for thought.

I use an iPad, so not much I can contribute other than to make sure that your Android device and OS version are compatible with Catalyst Edit and try another cable. Good luck!

You're in the Helix forum. Someone might know, but you might also weant to try here: POD Farm / POD Studio / TonePort - Line 6 Community