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Everything posted by rd2rk

  1. He lives over on TGP now. I think he bought a QC, in which case he's waiting on the editor. "SOON".
  2. Disconnect everything from the HXS. Not just turned OFF, disconnected. USB too. If it still makes that noise with NOTHING, not even USB (just the analog Outputs), connected, then you can try a Factory Reset, and if that doesn't work, re-install the v3.11 FW. If that doesn't get it, you can try contacting support, but if it's out of warranty and not some recognized defect, you're probably screwed.
  3. There's nobody here from L6 to hear your suggestion. Go to Ideascale: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/login Do a search on "TUNER" and vote for all of the suggestions for this (pretty sure there's more than one) posted by users who didn't do a search before posting.
  4. No, BUT.... In Global Settings>Switches you can configure the device to automatically return to Stomp Mode after selecting a Preset. You can configure (in ComandCenter) any of your (unused) Stomp Mode switches to select a specific Snapshot or Preset - no need to switch to Snapshot Mode or Preset Mode. So, in Stomp Mode you can go directly to any Snapshots you have set up in that Preset, or directly to any Preset, and use the remaining switches for on-the-fly changes to the Snapshot/Preset. Without adding an external MIDI Controller, that's what you have to work with.
  5. Have a good look at the CommandCenter section of the manual. Every time you load a Preset or a Snapshot, a number of commands defined in CommandCenter are automatically sent. These are called "Instant Commands (IC)", and are set using the "Lightning Bolt" icons. In addition, any Toggling CCs or Notes assigned to Footswitches are also sent. If you assign Program Change messages to the ICs, you can assign different PCs, CCs or Notes to different Snapshots, which will be sent when the Snapshot loads. I'm not familiar with the TAE, but your question implied that it has presets that themselves can be used to initiate actions on the TAE, such as sending Channel Change messages to attached amps. Depending on the amp, that might be an analog switch or a MIDI message. Helix can also do this, so you need to decide which functions need to be controlled from which controller. Helix can send commands on multiple MIDI channels, so if the TAE is on MIDI Channel 1 and the amp is on MIDI Channel 2, separate commands can be sent to each using the ICs. Here, I would need to know specifics as to what EXACTLY you want to accomplish on each device, and what types of messages are required by each device to accomplish those goals. I'm off to work now and won't be able to respond until Sunday, so take some time to peruse the manuals and think about what you want to do. Also, get a MIDI Monitor program so you will be able to tell what EXACTLY is being sent from/to each device. There are several free programs available, depending on whether you're on a MAC or PC platform (I'm a PC guy). Google is your friend!
  6. I have the PC212+, so since you didn't specify. In your case, if you want stereo at the board and mono to the PC112+, you should split the Path into two outputs. That way you can have MONO FX to the Digital Out, and Stereo FX to the XLR Outs of the Helix, with the Helix XLRs connected to the board. Gives you total control of the details of each signal - Stereo/Mono FX, cabs/IRs, EQs, etc. Be aware that, unless you're doing your own sound, most FOH techs will resist using two channels for your stereo guitar FX, and in most venues, stereo FOH doesn't sound all that good anyway. It makes the audience experience more dependent on where exactly they are in the venue, and complicates the FOH tech's job. Also, when you disable the BIG KNOB for your stage level (it should always be disabled for FOH), you have to run back and forth to the PC to change your stage level. While there is theoretically a very slight difference in tone between extreme settings of the BIG KNOB, it is virtually undetectable to mortals. Only those cursed with GOLDEN EARS can hear it. :-) Just be careful that the MAX level you intend to use doesn't drive the PC+ input into the red. A workaround for this is to use an expression pedal set in Command Center to CC#7 (requires a MIDI cable between the Helix and PC+). Max the BIG KNOB and set the Output levels of your presets for best signal to the PC+ (in the yellow, occasional flashes of red ok), then use the expression pedal to control the PC+ Output remotely.
  7. Use Snapshots to control what's happening on the TAE, and which HXFX effects are ON/OFF when you load the preset, parameter changes of the FX, etc.. Use the stomps to turn effects ON/OFF on the fly, and control parameters not already being controlled by Snapshots - a parameter can only be assigned to one controller (snapshot or stomp) at a time.
  8. If you're taking both PC+ XLR outs to separate channels on the board, then yes, as the signal that enters the PC+ from Helix goes straight to the XLRs (or through the Speakers/User IRs). That's also why the Volume Knob on the PC+ does not affect the XLR Outs. That level is controlled by the Output of the Helix. A Mono effect outputs dual Mono, not stereo. IOW - although the Paths are stereo (R/L) the signal on the Left of the Path is the same as the signal on the Right of the Path. That's why, for instance, there's no MONO Ping Pong Delay.
  9. Helix footswitches don't have a "2nd tap" function, and I doubt that's going to change, but you can post the suggestion here: Login | IdeaScale The way I do this is to assign a FS to the Output Block Level, set MIN at 0db and MAX at whatever.
  10. Separate Send/Return Blocks not necessary: Gtr>LT Gtr In>effects(mono)>FX Loop1 LT Send1>Amp In Amp Send(mono)>LT Return1>effects(stereo) LT 1/4" Outs>Amp Stereo FX Returns Kinda confusing the way they have the FX Loop marked on the Orange.
  11. rd2rk

    FS toggling via MIDI

    Now THAT makes sense! Thanks! I'll tell TGP guy! EDIT: So, if you assign a different CC# than the one used by the Helix for FS emulation, it will toggle the FS as expected using 127/0. IT WILL NOT ACTVATE THE SECONDARY FUNCTIONS ASSIGNED TO THE PHYSICAL FS!" I just tried it using CC#112 with 127/0 values, and it worked as I described. The Block toggled, and the secondary function of the physical FS (changing a level elsewhere) was NOT activated, but using the physical FS behaved as expected. So you can use both methods at the same time.
  12. rd2rk

    FS toggling via MIDI

    So, L6 has NEVER followed the MIDI standard of 127/0? They understand the difference between toggling and simple CCs in CommandCenter. I'm surprised they don't respect the standard on the incoming side. Seems silly. Oh well! I don't use it that way, (though the FCB1010/UNO2 script I wrote makes that assumption, I'll have to add a note to the documentation), but there's a guy over on the TGP HXS thread who's using a BOSS ES-5 who's gonna be really bummed out!
  13. rd2rk

    FS toggling via MIDI

    Exactly what they are NOT doing. They're supposed to react to 127 by turning ON, and 0 by turning OFF. That's what that second column 0-127 means. What they're doing is toggling the ON/OFF status of the FS REGARDLESS of the Value sent with the CC. WRONG!
  14. rd2rk

    FS toggling via MIDI

    Someone on TGP discovered, and I've confirmed, that when using FS toggling from an external controller, ON/OFF Values (127/0) are ignored, the toggle occurs regardless of the Value sent. Just so you don't go crazy trying to figure out what's wrong with your controller! Video made, ticket opened.
  15. I'm assuming that you are still on v3.11. I'm NOT assuming that you followed the update directions COMPLETELY. Don't take it personally, there's one step that many people miss, because it doesn't seem to make sense. Start by doing a Factory Reset. If that doesn't fix it, re-install the FW v3.11, making certain that you follow the directions COMPLETLY, including doing the Factory Reset AFTER the update (that's the step). If it still doesn't work, use a MIDI Monitor to see EXACTLY what the Arduino is sending. See if you can borrow another external controller to test with. If it still doesn't work, open a support ticket. I use an FCB1010 with the UNO2 chip, and have no such problems on my HXS or my Floor. FWIW - someone on TGP discovered, and I've confirmed, that when using FS toggling from an external controller, ON/OFF Values (127/0) are ignored, the toggle occurs regardless of the Value sent. Just so you don't go crazy trying to figure out what's wrong with your controller!
  16. Did you get it working? What was the solution?
  17. This is true. It's more of a studio solution, unless he wants to use his Scarlett live. Not a great idea. My 18i20 can go in a rack and be used as a mixer for live recording, but in that case I wouldn't use S/PDIF.
  18. AND there's his opening, in 10, 9, 8.......
  19. "FRFR" is a meaningless marketing term. Full Range means that it will reproduce 20-20k. Nothing we commoners can afford is truly Flat Response. PC+ is made for guitar, and is tuned to sound like a guitar cab. IOW - it's not designed for vocals. Will it sound OK? Only you can decide that. Do you have a good recording of your band? Run it through the PC+. Play your guitar over it with L6 Link. If it sounds good, it is good.
  20. I have a $22 6ft Radio Shack (wasn't long enough), and a $20 10ft C2G from Amazon. They both work fine. If I was buying today, I'd get this: AmazonSmile: 12 Foot SPDIF Cable – Gotham GAC-1 S/PDIF-Pro (Ultrablue) High-End Silver Plated LCOFC Digital Audio Interconnect Cable & Amphenol ACPR-SRD Gold RCA Plugs - Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES : Electronics $24. Don't pay $40 for a 6ft cable. Unless you think that a $60 10ft Mogami guitar cable sounds better than a $20 10ft Live Wire.
  21. That's what we're talking about! SEEK, and ye shall find! What have ye found? How to find the latest manual. How to read a manual. How to use the internet. How to use YouTube. Oh, yeah, and the solution to your problem. You're a better, smarter, more capable human for having visited this forum. And STILL you whine! Oy vey!
  22. I run a virtually identical system, only I have the 18i20 (2nd Gen). If your 18i8 is 1st Gen, there's part of the difference right there. Question: Why are you running XLR to the 18i8? Use S/PDIF and keep it in the digital realm. The difference between 1st Gen and 2nd Gen is mostly in the preamps. S/PDIF eliminates the preamp (whatever Gen) as an issue. Also cuts the latency (and sonic affect) by two DA/AD conversions, one DA at the Helix and one AD at the Scarlett. Eliminating the preamp coloration will get you closer to the Helix direct HP sound, but the difference is also at least partially caused by different HP preamps and Output Impedances relative to your HP impedance. FWIW - "Studio Grade" means whatever the marketing dept at KRK decided it means. It's not any kind of objective standard. I've no clue what the Impedance of your cans is, but I use the 55ohm AKG K240. I also have "Studio Grade" Sony MDR-V6 cans (63ohm), and I prefer the "Consumer Grade" AKGs. Try some different cans if it makes that big a difference to you. That is truly a YMMV thing.
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