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rd2rk

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Everything posted by rd2rk

  1. When the robots are in charge of checking for political correctness, there's no such thing as "context". Artificial intelligence is - artificial!
  2. I meant that configured as I described with the Korg, turning down the knob causes it to jump to max volume as you discovered. My goal was to make it easier to control the PC's volume, since the panel is difficult to get at with the Catalyst on top. I had no reason to try what your situation led you to try. You might try some sort of right angled cover to go over the PC's panel. Just hide the knobs. All I can think of. EDIT: I'm sure you'll come up with something. Experience will out!
  3. I found that 2-3ft of the floor worked best for the PC112+. I currently have my PC212+ on a 1ft step stool, with my Catalyst on top. This is definitely a YMMV thing though.
  4. rd2rk

    Digital noise

    Again, I don't hear it. Like I said, record it and attach the recordings, maybe someone will recognize the problem.
  5. I just tried it. You are correct. Leave it to someone with a kid to figure that out! So bottom line, no way to do what you're wanting to do. I learn something new everyday!
  6. Forget the ACTION part. Press and hold the parameter knob. Set Controller (knob 2) to none (or whatever) or change the value.
  7. Probably the biggest complaint about the Powercabs is the perceived inaccuracy of the speaker models. FWIW and IMO: Do YOU have extensive experience playing every one of the speaker models through a closed back 112 cab? Probably not. Any of them? If the answer is YES, then you are entitled to an opinion about the accuracy of THOSE speaker models. If the answer is NO, then don't worry about it and don't listen to what anybody says. If it SOUNDS GOOD to YOU, then it IS good! THAT is all that matters! What your Powercab sounds like through the XLR outs will depend more on the system it's being played through than anything else. The final determiner of what the audience hears through FOH is the sound guy. If you record it and it sounds close to the actual Powercab in the room, you're good. The LF modes are the speaker without the HF Driver. LF FLAT is the speaker EQ'd to be as flat as possible. LF RAW is the speaker without any EQ, the raw, natural sound of the speaker. You might try LF FLAT with cab models or IRs to see if you prefer it to the sound of the EQ'd speaker + HF Driver. If you're after the maximum AITR experience, that's LF RAW. That said, there's no reason not to try LF RAW with cabs/IRs. If it SOUNDS good... NOTE: Nobody knows what the speaker emulation called "NATURAL" is supposed to be. It's different from either of the LF modes. Think of it as "OTHER". The HF Driver should ONLY be on in FRFR mode. To test in the other modes, from the panel (NOT PC Edit!) navigate to the HF Driver setting and turn it OFF. If the sound changes, there's the problem. It should ONLY occur when using L6 Link to switch modes. Using MIDI or switching manually is not an issue (IME). By most reports it's NOT an issue on the PC112+, only on the PC212+, which I (and other PC212+ users) have documented. Just a bit of advice. Get the PC112+ OFF the floor! It'll sound much better. Also, make sure you've got the latest FW. Don't expect to see any updates or bug fixes. As far as anyone can tell (from the deafening silence of L6 on the subject) the Powercab series is abandonware. Use it for what it is and have fun!
  8. That's why you dime or disable (better) the Helix Volume knob. In order to properly gain stage the Powercab for best tone you need to have your Helix Output level set the same for every preset. You need to have them set so that the loudest note you play - Lead boost/OD/DIST engaged and hard picking/strumming - gets the Powercab Input LED into the yellow (amber?) with MAYBE an OCCASIONAL flash of red. If you leave the Helix Volume knob engaged using it changes the level to the Powercab Input! BTW - this is the same method you'd use when sending to FOH. EDIT: keep in mind that when the Helix Volume knob is dimed, that is not 10 on a scale like with an amplifier. It is UNITY: Output = Input or 0db. Neither boosted nor cut. Turning the knob DOWN DECREASES volume to -db levels. The Powercab Volume control WILL override the MIDI. That's why you dime the Powercab's volume knob. Then it can ONLY turn the level DOWN. Your MIDI controller is the sole point of Volume control - zero = zero and 127 = death. Since your goal here is to get that final volume control out of the li'l rascal's reach, this is the solution! Put the Korg where he can't reach it and nothing he does on the Helix or the Powercab will have serious consequences.
  9. DAW and MIDI control are separate functions from the AI. The Korg communicates over USB. That's why you need a way to route MIDI to Helix/Powercab and also why I mentioned that it's only useful in a home setup with a computer. Since it requires a driver you can't use a MIDI Host box either. If you use it to control a DAW there's two ways to do it. Either you assign each DAW function manually to the Korg's controls (PITA but possible) or you use the default DAW configuration. If you use the default configuration CC#7 is probably in use already (not in Reaper, which is my primary DAW), and even if not, you can't use the default DAW configuration and custom configuration concurrently. This is not an issue for me, as I have TWO nanoKontrols! If you get the Korg and want to try manual programming I can help you out with that.
  10. If it SOUNDS good it IS good!
  11. I'm not sure what you're talking about, but my experience with using an exp pedal vs using a rotary/slider on the Korg is night and day. With my Catalyst Master set to 1/4 on the .5 watt setting I'm getting 65-80db (same meter as TPS uses). Turning up the Korg to match the volume with my PC212 dimed is MIDI Value 11 out of 127. VERY fine control. The AES cable is irrelevant to the issue. It's advantage is one less cable and one less AD/DA conversion. Technically, the Helix Volume control happens prior to the converters, in the digital realm. There's a bit of tone loss having to do with bit rate gobbledygook if the Volume knob is turned down. It's nothing that normal human ears can hear, but just FYI, you don't LOSE anything by diming both volume knobs. As to scaring the rascal off with volume, IME, children are immune to volume. The more the merrier! Here's a link to the Korg at Thomann: Korg nanoKONTROL 2 black – Thomann UK
  12. Unfortunately, the music industry is but a tiny portion of the MAC market. While MAC support techs (in my very limited experience) are FAR superior to the amateur golf caddies that Microsoft employs, they tend to know zip about the issues that concern us. Although I have to wonder @lespool79, have you tried MAC support?
  13. In my W/D/W setup I'm not using the Catalyst FX other than BOOST, but there's no reason you can't. In order to get the stereo/ambient effect you need to use stereo FX on Helix Path 2, as the input from the Catalyst will be mono. With 8 available blocks, you can use whatever strikes your fancy, arranged any way you like. Part of the joy of ambient music is the surprises that arise from experimentation with unlikely combinations of effects! Since the Catalyst XLR already contains an IR (or eq simulation of a cab/mic?) you don't strictly NEED to use an IR on Helix, and if you're using a PC212+ for your stereo playback system you can always try loading IRs in the Powercab to spare dsp/blocks on Helix. You can set the Output of Path 2 to XLR and send it to your mixer/playback system. If you're using the PC212+ with on board IRs then you would use the PC212+ XLRs for that.
  14. The LFS2 is the footswitch made specifically for use with Catalyst, standalone or with modelers. IME other switches (and even the Ext Amp switches in CommandCenter) cause odd noises/behaviors. BOSS FS series footswitches could be the exception, I don't have one to test. MIDI works great and is the best solution EXCEPT when using Snapshots due to the one-way nature of MIDI. For instance, if you activate an effect or boost using a Helix FS then change to a snapshot where that effect/boost is NOT activated, the Helix FS LED will NOT reflect that. In order to have the FS LEDs match the actual Catalyst configuration you need to save the Preset/Snapshots with the footswitches in the correct condition. If BOOST is activated in the Preset/Snapshot, the FS that controls BOOST must be saved ON. Note that when a preset first loads, any messages assigned to latching footswitches will be sent, but that does not recur on snapshot changes.
  15. It won't work the way you want it to. Relevant info in BOLD. POWER AMP IN jack This jack directly inputs a signal to the power amp without passing it through the preamp of the KATANA Mk II. You can use it to input sound that’s been shaped by an external preamp or by a multieffect unit equipped with an amp simulator. If you’re using the POWER AMP IN jack, the [PANEL] button is lit green. * Sound that is input to this jack is not affected by controls other than the [MASTER] knob and the [POWER CONTROL] switch. * Unless you are using two KATANA Mk II units connected in stereo, leave the [STEREO EXPAND] switch or [EXPAND] switch turned “OFF.” * The POWER AMP IN jack and the INPUT jack cannot be used simultaneously. If cables are connected to both, the INPUT jack has priority.
  16. You might have to rent a computer to do this. You do NOT want to lose your connection while updating the FW. Make sure that everything is backed up. Don't do this if you have a gig next weekend. Reinstall the FW using the latest version of L6 Updater. Follow all of the directions, including doing a Factory Reset AFTER Helix rebuilds the presets. Restore the backups you made. You're probably getting unsatisfactory answers from support because they just don't know what to tell you. 99.9% of us don't have this problem, and without actually having YOUR computer on the bench with YOUR Helix and permission to do whatever it takes to find and fix the problem, there's only so much they can do. When all of the usual solutions have been tried and nothing has worked, it's down to your specific hardware. Good Luck!
  17. For best results the input level on the Powercab needs to be set so that the highest signal that hits it (boosted lead with hard strumming?) puts the LED into the yellow (amber?) with MAYBE an occasional flash of red. That's how I've always set it. It's hard to get all of your presets levelled to this condition, which is part of the reason that levelling presets is a perpetual hot topic. And if you don't use a Powercab, the FOH tech has to deal with it! I just got the LFS2 footswitch, and spent most of an afternoon comparing the three control modes - panel, footswitch and MIDI. I've posted my results as "What's NOT in the Pilot's Guide". The short story is that everything you want to do (other than the FX Loop thing) is possible, but it requires a combination of methods. Maybe not the news you want to hear, but it is what it is. I'll still take my $400 Catalyst over a $1000 Tone Master every day!
  18. Well.... EXCUUUSE ME! I don't hear any "lack of clarity" either. I must have gotten used to it before I bought it. Yes, opinions. They're like...and everybody's got one! :-) I read another good one today - Did you know that there are NO REAL CLEAN amps in Helix? WOW!
  19. By diming the Powercab's volume knob you prevent the scenario you described - junior grabs the knob and gets vaporized by 110db of power chord! By also diming the Helix Volume knob you're sending a UNITY signal to the Powercab. The Volume Knobs on Helix and Powercab can then ONLY be turned DOWN. The room level is entirely controlled by the Korg, which is small and light and can easily be placed out of reach of small people. Although the USB cable it comes with is short, it works fine with a 10 ft Amazon Basics Extender. When you shut down, yes, the Powercab's Volume will default to wherever the knob is. I avoid problems by simply using the Helix and Powercab's Volume knobs during startup (see below). That's actually a good commonsense practice in any situation. Once the MIDI Monitor/MIDI router is active twisting the knob all the way down shows you that it's working and shuts down the Powercab's volume. Example Startup Routine: Helix BIG KNOB DOWN (full counter clockwise). Helix ON. Powercab Volume DOWN (full counter clockwise). Powercab ON. MIDI Monitor loaded and configured. Knob/slider assigned to CC#7 full down so that monitor shows last Value of ZERO. NOTE: Powercab and Helix (if routing thru Helix) need to be ON so that the MIDI driver sees them when starting the Monitor. Powercab volume knob dimed (slowly). Helix BIG KNOB dimed (slowly). Hit a note and turn up the Korg control to desired level. This DOES require a level of responsibility on the part of the adult in the room :-) It becomes second nature. If you've ever operated a PA system on a regular basis you know what I mean. The only way junior will be able to turn up the levels is if he manages to grab one of the parameter adjustment knobs on Helix. Unless you set up your presets with the GAIN/CH VOLUME/MASTER or FX Levels REALLY LOW, that shouldn't result in fatal db levels.
  20. If you created an account and registered your Helix online you should be able to login from the MY ACCOUNT link in Native and get it authorized. IDK what DAW they gave you (Cubase? Steinberg is owned by Yamaha IIRC) but these free DAW offers are usually just the basic version downloadable from the DAW website. I don't recall though if Cubase is one of those ripoff DAWs that don't allow 3rd Party plugins with the basic version, so it may be that some extra step is required to get it to work.
  21. No. You could make life easier by creating a template with the send where you want it, then base your new presets on that template.
  22. Hi jp, welcome to the dark side! :-) You've pretty much covered the possibilities. Since this is a home use situation, consider this. It's what I do, but for different reasons. Get something like the Korg nanoKontrol2. Very cheap. USB connection to your computer. DL a MIDI Monitor that allows you to route an incoming signal to an outgoing device. MIDIOX works if you have a PC, but there's others out there. Set one of the controls on the Korg (or whatever) to CC#7 and route the signal either directly to the Powercab (if you have it connected by USB) or to your Helix set to MIDI THRU and use a MIDI cable to the Powercab. Dime the Powercab. It's a Class D amp, so that's not an issue. Make sure (with the MIDI Monitor) that the Powercab (on CC#7) is all the way down before you do anything to make noise! Turn up the Korg SLOWLY till you get the level you want. Put the Korg out of reach of your 6yo. There's likely other devices than the Korg that will work, but the Korg is very lightweight plastic, easy to put wherever, and I've used mine for over 10 years for controlling DAWs, very dependable and always available on fleabay for cheap.
  23. No, they don't. That's called "operator error". If you don't like the way they sound, that's fine and you have a lot of company. ITRW, a 2-12 Zilla cab does not sound like a 2-12 Peavey cab, even with identical speakers. Use what you like. But don't perpetuate this "blanket over the speaker" nonsense. I can set up my Powercab so that you'll think I've jammed an icepick in your ear. This "blanket over the speaker" effect is most common when using the speaker emulations and is why most people say that the emulations suck. While it's possible, with an extreme amount of tweaking, to get decent sounds out of the emulations, you shouldn't have to work that hard. Thus, I agree with those who say that the emulations suck. I use my Powercab either with IRs (York these days) or in LF RAW mode (HF Driver OFF) and it sounds just fine! Yes, you gotta get it off the floor!
  24. Just thought I'd add that one of my favorite ways of using my Catalyst in combination with my PC212+ is to set up the Cat in 4cm with one Helix Path using ODs/Dist and (?), then take the XLR out from the Cat to the MIC Input on Helix as Input to a second Path, run the signal through a bunch of stereo FX and send that out the L6 Link to the PC212 with the PC212 in LF RAW mode (no HF Driver or emulations) and set to 200% stereo spread. W/D/W BIG AMBIENT FUN! If you're into that sort of sound, consider a PC212+!
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