rd2rk

The FS assignments are GLOBAL. They can't be re-assigned per preset. To do what you want requires MIDI. You bought the 60 (no DIN ports), so you'd need a MIDI controller that acts as a USB HOST (might cost as much or more than the amp) or a HOST box and regular controller. If you have an iPhone or iPad that will work with AUM, you can use a dual camera kit hub and route from any basic midi controller thru AUM. You would need something like this: Amazon.com: rosyclo Lightning Hub iPad Adapter, 6-in-1 Lightning to HDMI Digital AV Converter, TF & SD Card Reader, USB Camera Adapter, Power Delivery Compatible with iPhone, iPad and More USB Devices : Electronics Or you can use one of these: USB MIDI Host Box - DOREMiDi WARNING - make sure that it's bi-directional. If you're not gigging, you can simply route it thru your computer using a DAW or a MIDI utility like MIDI-OX. Either way, you'll need a MIDI Floor Controller, preferably capable of sending multiple messages per press. Something like this: Amazon.com: Paint Audio MIDI Captain NANO 4 Foot Controller Multi-Effects Keyboards Synthesizer USB-MIDI DAW DSP Software USB-HID Support Multi-state Switch Cycling (MIDI Captain NANO 4) : Musical Instruments ***Avoid BT controllers. There's somebody out there who'll swear that they work fine, but my experience is that they are not dependable. So, altogether around $125-150 + cables. FWIW - I have a Cat100 and a Helix, so I just use that. I have also tested the iPhone/iPad configuration I mentioned, using just the Cat's USB port and my FCB1010, and it worked great.

Place it between the guitar and the Stomp Input. This could compromise the Auto Impedance feature, but if you're not using any HXS FX that use <1M Impedance, no loss. OR Place it between the HXS SEND and your amp's Input. You'll need to use the Fortin's FS to toggle it (unless the fortin has MIDI). OR Waste a Block for a second FX Loop.

Make sure that you are running the latest FW. Perform a Factory reset (backup first!). If that doesn't help, contact support.

Again, and also in the referenced thread, I explained how the Power Amp In/FX Loop switch works, and why. You SOLD your Catalyst. That was the correct thing to do. It's WAY too complex a device for you. Move on.

First, this is a user to user support forum Nobody from L6 hangs out here If you really want to get your message to the L6 engineers, post your suggestion here: Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) BUT... before you do that, explain in detail what you are attempting to do. There's probably a simple workaround.

I can only comment on three powered cabs, PC112+, PC212+ and Catalyst 100. I started with a Helix Floor and later added an HXStomp. I quickly sold the PC112+ and moved up to the PC212+. The reason was that I THOUGHT that the PC112+ was too dark. I wish I'd kept it because I later realized that I simply didn't know how to use it. I wish that I'd kept the PC112+ because now that I know how the system works, it would have been fine, and if I only had the HXS it would have been perfect for my needs. The PC212+ is actually overkill with the HXS. I found that the advantages of total volume, which I don't need (the PC112+ is plenty loud), and the "novelty" of the stereo possibilities, which I don't really care all that much about, are offset by the added size and weight. Stereo is nice for "ambient" sounds though. IOW, if you have a full fat Helix and want the above-mentioned advantages of maximum volume, integration and features, and don't mind the weight, the PC212+ is great. Otherwise, or if you only have the HXS, the PC112+ is quite sufficient. Also, if you think of the Speaker Emulations as Speaker 1, Speaker 2 etc. and don't get all hung up on "Do the GB25, V30 etc. REALLY sound like "THE REAL DEAL", then the PC series are great for the AITR feel. Just pick the speaker that sounds best for the sound that you're going for. The Catalyst 100 not only sounds great for AITR, but it's also MUCH cheaper, lighter, and has the advantages of being a backup if the HXS fails. The internal amps, delay and reverb allow me to use more pre-amp FX without running into DSP issues with the single processor HXS. With the addition of the 6 new amps in the latest X version (12 total and the old HW is updatable by FW), I have all of the amps that I need. It's PLENTY loud (get the 2x12 version if you need more) and actually sounds GREAT for low volume (<75db) practice in my apartment. This is due to the built-in Fletcher-Munson compensatory EQ on the .5watt setting. Even at <>60db it sounds full. For LIVE use, going to FOH from the XLR, the "generic" sounding 1x12, 2x12 and 4x12 speaker options, with the MANY mic emulations, give me all the flexibility I need. I went down the rabbit-hole of IRs. I have many THOUSANDS, from every major and minor player, and I no longer use them except for my RARE forays into recording, and even then, rarely. The ability (with the new FW) to disable the internal speaker emulations allows the ability to use an IR loader if I wanted to. My PC212+ is now on Craigslist. IOW, if I was starting over and only had the HXS, the Catalyst is the way I'd go. All of the L6 options have MIDI, which is GREAT. It's NOT Rocket Science, and I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about using MIDI. As to the other candidates you mentioned, the only way to tell which would be best for YOU would be to try them. Good Luck finding a store that has all of them, and keep in mind that what they sound like in a store vs ITRW is about as accurate an evaluation method as YouTube.

Not on mine. You've never played mine, so obviously, you've not tried EVERY Catalyst, so how can you possibly state that? We've either got a language barrier problem here or a comprehension issue. Are you sure that you know what "attenuation" actually means? I've explained multiple times how the amp works. You've never acknowledged anything I've told you. You just keep insisting that you're right, and now you're doubling down on being wrong. What did support say in response to the ticket that you opened?

People actually PAY EXTRA for relic'd guitars... Think of it as "Character". My 2.5yo Catalyst still looks fine. I, on the other hand...... Getting old sucks.

Also, in GLOBAL SETTINGS>MIDI set MIDI PC Tx to OFF. This prevents HXFX from sending the default PC#, allowing you to use Command Center to send whichever PC# you need.

First, RTM!!! First, RTM!!! First, RTM!!! Did I mention, First, RTM!!! Then, if you want to dive deeper, get the BBHT&T.

Try a factory reset (back up your presets first!). If that doesn't work, open a support ticket.

Open a support ticket. You've got a defective unit, not a defective design. If the design were defective, the problem would occur on ALL units, not just yours, and yours is the ONLY complaint of this that I've ever seen. Good Luck!

I bought my Cat on the day of its initial release, the first one my local GC sold. I use it every day - solo, with Helix/HXS, with the ToneX pedal and with VSTs. I've tried three times to explain this, but perhaps I have not been clear enough in my explanation. I will make one final attempt to explain how the Catalyst works. The following is true regardless of the setting on the "Output Power" (attenuator) switch. When you use the "Power Amp In" configuration - external multi-fx output>Catalyst RETURN - you are bypassing the Cat's preamp section. if you have the MODE switch in the "POWER AMP IN" position, the power amp IS attenuated by 10db. This is not a "defect", it is the way the unit is designed. This allows headroom for different multi-fx units which may have differing output levels. HOWEVER - using the switch in this position IS NOT REQUIRED, and when the switch is in the "FX LOOP" position, THE POWER AMP IS NOT ATTENUATED! Nor is the signal "colored" by the Cat's preamps, as they are not in the circuit at all. Any "coloration" that you may think you are hearing is likely the result of the Fletcher-Munson effect. Equal-loudness contour - Wikipedia Below a certain threshold, if you drop a signal's level by 10db the highs and lows will sound like they are attenuated. This is a result of human psychoacoustics, that is, at lower volumes we hear the mid-range frequencies (the frequencies of the human voice) better than the highs/lows. Psychoacoustics - Wikipedia I hope that this clears up your confusion. If not, then by all means sell/return your Catalyst - it's not the amp for you!

Whatever.

How many times do I need to say it? If you set the switch to FX Loop it is NOT attenuated! With the switch set to POWER AMP IN, IIRC, it's a 10db attenuation. My Helix with an amp emulation into the power amp sounds the same regardless of the switch position, just LOUDER with the switch set to FX Loop. Sounds great either way. I use my HXS for front end FX with the Cat's amps (4cm) and the Cat delay and reverb (switch set to FX Loop). Sounds great this way too. I wish they'd left the switch out of the design so it wouldn't confuse people who, for some reason, think that you NEED to set the switch to POWER AMP IN if you use a modeler. You don't. You can get the same effect by turning down the Output Level on the multi-fx if it's too hot.

With the switch set to "Power Amp In" it IS attenuated. If you set the switch to FX Loop it is NOT attenuated! It may or may not be as loud as your Katana 60, but with the switch set to FX LOOP it is NOT attenuated if the power switch is set to the full 60watt setting. Keep in mind that the Cat and Katana use different amplifier technologies, different speakers and have different cab designs. Have you compared them using an actual db meter? What is the ACTUAL difference in SPL?

Do you understand the relationship between the CHANNEL Volume and the MASTER Volume? IDK (or care) about side-by-side with Katana, but if you dime the CHANNEL Volume and change the switch settings as I suggested, on the 100watt setting it easily blows past 100db and that's not near full volume (I need my ears). Depending upon the speaker sensitivity, that's nearly as loud as a 100watt Marshall full stack! Obviously, a 1x12 doesn't push as much air as an 8x12 stack, but unless you're playing coliseum size stages, you're not running a full stack. And then there's the BOOST! How frelling loud do you need it? These days, at that level, most clubs will pull your plug! For bigger stages there's the XLR Out to FOH, the Cat is just your stage monitor. I don't get it.

In the .5watt position, the attenuation is accompanied by an EQ adjustment to compensate for the Fletcher-Munson effect (Google it). In the higher settings you would use the Output Volume of your multi-fx device as a master, which accomplishes the same goal as the lower settings but defeats the F-M EQ effect. Altogether pointless. What are you trying to accomplish? If you're talking about the volume drop when the FX Loop switch is in the RIGHT (Power Amp In) position, just put it in the LEFT (FX Loop) position and turn OFF any undesired FX.

You can't take the time to describe your wiring, but you want us to take the time to watch a video the instructions in which you may or may not have followed correctly...

We didn't see those tutorials, so we can't be sure you're connected correctly. Please describe your wiring. That said, it sounds like you don't have an FX Block in your signal chain.

Here's my settings in S1 v5 Artist: As for the delay issue, send me the preset and I'll check it out.

Set the INPUT on Path 1 to GUITAR. Because it's set to MULTI, the SPDIF INPUT is already in use and can only be used once in a preset.

Connect your Cat to your computer. Run the Line6 Updater. If you don’t have it, go to Line6.com/downloads to get it. Select your Cat. Select the version to install. Follow any directions that appear. READ THE MANUAL! It can be found at Line6.com/Support. Get both the original and the new version. Back up your stock presets INDIVIDUALLY to your computer. Now Re-run and reinstall the latest FW. You can now restore any of the magical 1st version presets, WITHOUT losing all of the great features of the latest version. A bit of advice. READ THE MANUAL and learn how to use your Catalyst. Presets are for newbs to LEARN with. You’ll thank me later.

Backup your presets. Load 4B. Tap the guitar icon in the upper left corner. Tap “Save current preset to catalyst”. Select the bank and channel where you want to cop it. Tap SAVE.

Guitar>nux input>nux send>hxfx input>hxfx output>nux return>nux output No fx loop block is needed on the hxfx as you’re simply going input to output.