rd2rk

That should only work if you're already in the proper Setlist. As long as that works for you, cool, but if it was me I'd want to know what was causing the problem in the first place.

While we're waiting for @datacommando, a couple of things. I've assumed that you are using the Reaper MIDI Editor to hand enter the MIDI events vs using an external controller to RECORD the MIDI events. There may have been some confusion over that. Try this. Place a MIDI Monitor on the Native track to see EXACTLY what is being sent to Native from the MIDI track. Take a screenshot of the MIDI Monitor so we can see exactly what is being sent. While it LOOKS like you have the Event List correctly configured to change to Setlist 3, maybe in this case confirmation might help track down the problem. *If your MIDI Monitor doesn't diisplay in decimal by default, see if there's a switch to make it do that. Translating from HEX is not a big deal, just annoying. EDIT: Factory 1 is by default Setlist 1 - CC#32 Value 0. User1 is by default Setlist 3 - CC#32 Value 2. The screen recording looks like it's starting in Setlist 3, then switching to Setlist 1. In both Setlists it's landing on Preset 10. This is not what your screenshot of the Event list is telling it to do, so something else is going on. Please follow my suggestion re the MIDI Monitor screenshot.

The clip light indicates that the PC's Input circuit is clipping, not the modeler's Output. *** That signal level (the modeler's Output) is what goes to FOH from the XLR. The PC's Volume knob has no effect on the level to FOH, only the PC's speaker output. IOW - the PC's XLR out is the same level as running the XLR direct from the modeler to FOH. LINE level is higher than MIC level, so to get the hottest signal to FOH use LINE from the PC. Some less than quality boards and some less than competent engineers might think that's too hot. It should not be a problem for a modern board and a basically competent engineer, but what can you do? If the SOUND GOD says it's too hot, switch the PC's Output Level to MIC. The INPUT LEVEL setting on the PC is used to compensate the signal from the modeler to the PC's INPUTS (analog only, no effect on the digital input). If it's set at 0db and the modeler's output can light up the clip light, you're good. If the modeler's Output Level at MAX won't light the Clip LED you turn up the INPUT LEVEL to compensate. That won't affect the XLR, but you may need to set the XLR Out level to LINE to get sufficient level to FOH. I can't imagine that a dimed Powercab can't handle stage levels unless your band's drummer is channeling Bonham with a stadium sized kit and the other guitarist is diming a 100w full stack trying to outgun the bass player's SVT fridge. If this is your normal scenario, your Powercab might only be a small part of the problem - you might need a good audiologist! *** Clean signals are less compressed than distorted signals - the dynamic range is wider. The MOMENTARY PEAKS are what triggers the Clip light, but like any noise floor phenomenon, it's easier to HEAR the nasty digital distortion on an already distorted signal. OTOH, if the clean signal is ALWAYS in the clip zone you SHOULD be able to hear it, I sure do! - it really is NASTY! While this doesn't appear on the XLR, it WILL be apparent on the USB. Try cranking it up and recording it in a DAW.

Ummm... We're talking about the Line 6 POWERCAB. Not PERSONAL COMPUTERS. Context is everything.

Yes, I'm aware. As I said, I didn't know that Reaper could run the AU version even on a MAC. I have used the AAX version with ProTools, but I hate ProTools and, TBH, having the HW Helix, I only ever use Native for re-amping. But FWIW - changing SetLists and Presets works fine in ProTools with Native AAX.

TBH, I was wondering how you got Preset Changes to work at all. I didn't even know you could run the AU (MAC) version in Reaper, I thought that only worked in Logic. Since I'm on a PC I tested this on my physical Helix. When I try it in Reaper it doesn't work because Program Changes on VST/VST3 are not supported. @datacommando- you're a MAC dude, can you help this guy?

Your .mov link isn't found and your attachment is .php which is not supported. In the MIDI Event Editor go to ACTIONS and select "Insert bank/program select event. Enter the LSB (that means CC#32) VALUE (SetList#). Enter the Program #. If that doesn't work attach a screenshot of the Reaper MIDI Event Editor. Below toggles between two setlists and presets.

CC#0/32 are the MIDI specifiers for a BANK(SetList in Helix speak) change. A VALUE is required to specify the BANK/SetList#. Some devices use CC#0, some use CC#32, some respond to either. CC#32 tells Helix that the VALUE provided is the BANK/SetList#. You then follow with a PC# to specify the Preset in the specified BANK/SetList. CC#32 Value 0 = SetList 1 CC#32 Value 5 = SetList 6

What did they say when you opened a Support Ticket? ??????? They haven't stopped, there just hasn't been one lately. They're a little busy with Stadium, but there WILL be updates. https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/helix-3-9-wishlist.2714547/post-42223469 Take a positive view. Open a Support Ticket. Even if it's out of warranty, they've been known to help anyway. For all you know it could be a known issue with a simple solution. TIP - be positive when asking for help. Nobody likes a negative Nancy.

The MODE switch is always available. In PRESET MODE you can have ALL PRESETS, ALL SNAPSHOTS, any combination of PRESETS, SNAPSHOTS and/or STOMPS 4 each TOP or BOTTOM. The UP/DOWN switches can be BANKS, PRESETS or SNAPSHOTS. You can swap the UP/DOWN functions to DOWN/UP but you can't disable them in PRESET MODE. In STOMP MODE, if you have the full-fat Helix (not LT), then you can set it so that you have 10 STOMPS and no UP/DOWN switches. Using Command Center you can set switches (in STOMP MODE) to switch SNAPSHOTS, MOMENTARILY switch Snapshots (PRESS/RELEASE), or use one FS to go to any Snapshot from any other Snapshot ("stacking"). Example - FS1 in SS1 goes to SS3, in SS3 FS1 goes to SS8, in SS8 FS1 goes to SS6 etc. Using the PRESS/HOLD setting you can go to either of two Snapshots from one switch. You can also switch PRESETS, control external MIDI devices, swap channels on an amp, control a DAW, lots of other stuff.

I'm not sure what you mean. To create a MOMENTARY Snapshot you need to use Press/Release, but the RELEASE to get back to the original SS needs to be on the Target SS: SS1 FS1 Press>SS2 SS2 FS1 Release>SS1 You cannot, in another SS, go to SS2 and have the RELEASE of SS2 set to go back to THAT SS because it is already set to go back to SS1: SS3 FS1 Press>SS2 SS2 FS1 Release>SS3 Whereas: SS3 FS1 Press>SS4 SS4 FS1 Release>SS3 will work fine. If this does not describe your issue, attach an example preset with specifics re what you are trying to accomplish.

Terminology. The TRANSMITTER is the dongle that plugs into your guitar. The RECEIVER is the ridiculously huge box that plugs into your Helix input. The RECEIVER doesn't need to be in the middle of your workspace, it can be placed anywhere within the 20' reach of a standard guitar cable. Beyond 20' could be inviting signal noise but really, there's no out-of-the-way-line-of-sight place in your office where the RECEIVER can be placed? Also, if the RECEIVER+cable can be conveniently located using a rear input, just run the cable around to the front of the unit (using the right-angle adapter if it sticks out too far OR use a RETURN as I previously suggested. As to WHY the AUX input doesn't work with the Input Block set to MULTI, I see no explanation. Attach an example preset and I'll test it for "USER ERROR" but really, even if we get the AUX IN working you won't be happy with the result because, as mentioned, it will NOT give the same signal level as either the GUITAR IN or a RETURN. Another possibility - you didn't specify WHICH NUX wireless you have, but if it's 5.8ghz it will probably work better than the G10 re dropouts. If it's the dual-dongle version just connect the RECEIVER directly to the GUITAR IN or to a short patch cable connected to the GUITAR IN and set it on top (or velcro it to the side) of your rack. EZ PZ problem solved! In my "office" (my dining room table) I have a similar space problem. I have an HX Stomp there and I just plug the RECEIVER dongle directly into the GUITAR IN. When I was using a G10 I used the patch cable method with the RECEIVER on top of the monitor speaker.

I'm not sure that I understand. MULTI includes the AUX Input. You shouldn't need to set the Presets' input to AUX to use the AUX Input. If you DO select AUX, that disables all other inputs for that Path. The AUX Input is intended for use with active pickups, and your signal from the G10 will be much weaker than when you use the Guitar Input. It SHOULD, however, still work. I'm currently using a no-name 5.8ghz wireless because the non-replaceable batteries died on BOTH of my G10 units and I'm not spending $220 for a new pair of transmitters that are eventually destined for the dump with the ORIGINAL pair that in any case don't work as well (dropouts) as the PAIR of dongle style units (no big bulky base unit) that I got on Amazon for $60 (for the PAIR - $30 each and NO dropouts!). They work fine in the AUX Input and IIRC, the G10 worked fine there too (when they worked). IDK what sort of space constraints necessitate using the AUX input, but why not just use the right-angle adapter that comes with the G10 to go into the Guitar Input? EDIT: If you MUST use a rear input, use one of the RETURNS and set the INPUT Block to that RETURN. The RETURNS are 1M and will not attenuate the signal like AUX does.

The controller doesn't need to be "in sync" for Snapshot changes. The programmed switch will always send what it's programmed to send. If you're depending on an LED on the controller to tell you what Snapshot you're in, then I suppose that would matter, but most controllers are one-way. The MIDI Input is there to allow "chaining" MIDI devices - received messages are passed thru to the OUT/THRU port. It's possible that SOME controllers MIGHT be capable of being controlled by other devices, but the one I suggested does not have that ability. You would need to read the manual for any device that you are considering to verify that it has that feature. I had a quick look at a couple of the Morningstar manuals - MC6 MKII and MC6 PRO - and neither of those allow what you want, MIDI IN is only for passing messages to MIDI OUT/THRU.

I've no clue why you'd want to do that. New to MIDI? The main reason to use the "Snapshot CC Send" would be to record a MIDI track to automate a show. When you use a MIDI Controller for LIVE performance you just setup the controller to send the CC#69+Value (SS# - 0-3). Unless you switch banks on the controller, those switches will always send the proper message. Here's the MIDI controller I use. Cheap, powerful, easy to set up (mobile app), rugged, dependable, and widely available: Amazon.com: HOTONE MIDI Foot Controller Pedal Bluetooth Ampero Control 4 Button : Musical Instruments You didn't say WHERE in Europe, so...

The manual for your XYZ amp specifies that the FX Loop is PQR level. MOST modern amps' FX Loops are made for use with stompboxes/consumer grade devices. If the PQR level is -10db then that's what you've got. SOME amps' FX Loops were once upon a time made for studio/rack FX. If the PQR level is +4db, there ya go. If the amp has a -10db/+4db switch then set it appropriately for your gear.

Yes, that's what I described using the Snapshot Edits setting.

In Global Settings>Preferences>Snapshot Edits can be set to RECALL or DISCARD. RECALL retains the Snapshot changes until you switch Presets. DISCARD reloads the SAVED Snapshot configuration when you switch Snapshots. In either case, the changes are only permanent if you SAVE the Preset.

This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from Line6 hangs out here. There was once something called Ideascale where you could post "wish lists", but that no longer exists. Your best bet if you want someone from Line6 to see your request is to go on The Gear Page>Digital and Modeling Forum and start a thread in which you tag @Rikman. He is the Project lead for the Powercab CL.

This is not something that I do (use MIDI Clock), so the following could be all wrong, but until someone else chimes in it's something to try. I don't think that you can CHAIN tempo between devices, and I think the sync would drift over time even if you could. If your DAW is the MASTER CLOCK, I THINK that it needs to control each device directly. Try connecting all three to your computer via USB. Configure them all to receive MIDI Clock over USB and configure Logic to send MIDI Clock to all three. I also do not use Logic so I've no idea how to setup Logic to do that. In Reaper the setting is right there on each MIDI Device Output.

You are not switching analog channels, you are switching PRESETS. It takes time to UNLOAD one preset from memory, then load another into memory. It's nowhere near 1/2 second, MAYBE 100ms, if that. More like 30-50ms. You either learn to work around it (don't switch presets with a note ringing, pause for a dotted 1/8th) or find a product that doesn't do that. I don't know of one. The BOSS GT1000 is designed to work like that, but the Katana does not (AFAIK) contain that technology.

Looks like you did a cut/paste from an app with a black background - nothing is visible! The bit that was readable in the notification email said: Hi all. I have the itch to run stereo again and I’m hitting a mental block on designing a preset that can be stereo for both XLR and 1/4 (without IRs/. Create your split using a stereo block - I usually use a GAIN Block. The split itself results in two stereo paths. If you want IRs on the XLR path (usual practice for FOH sends), use the DUAL IR Block and Pan the IRs to taste. To complete the split to stereo 1/4" and Stereo XLR outputs, pull the MERGE Block down and select the output types on the Output Block. Refer to the manual if you don't know how to do these things.

I would go for Option 2. Things you may not have thought of: External drive pedals in the HXFX Loop could be too noisy (IMO) due to the small amount of noise added by the Loop. With "Lots of dirt pedals" you'll already have plenty of noise. YMMV depending upon the pedals, but that has been my experience. If you haven't spent much time with the HXFX dirt pedals, try them and compare. You might end up selling the physical pedals. Option 2 also allows you to put your MOD FX before the Opus and your time-based FX after, as would be done in a studio in post production. There's no reason to further complicate your signal chain with external MOD pedals, the ones in the HXFX are quite capable. Also, keep in mind that every time you go from analog to digital and back you're introducing latency which, even if not enough to throw off your timing, can still affect the "feel" of your rig. More external pedals=more cables=more potential failure points. "KISS" theory applies.

No. Nobody from Line6 hangs out here. Go to The Gear Page>Digital and Modeling forum and search for @Digital Igloo (Eric Klein). He knows. Trust him.

Just for my personal info, what method is the PV using that makes it incompatible? It appears to be simple TRS switching, as I don't see any voltage supply to the FS which uses a single TRS cable...