rd2rk

If the copy/paste is replacing an existing block which has SS/FS settings that affect parameters in other blocks, that might be the issue. Otherwise, if it's just adding a block, that should not cause an issue.

The BSOD in Windows indicates a computer issue. Start there. Make sure you've got the PC fully updated and running properly under the latest version of Windows. I haven't suffered a BSOD since Win10. Do a thorough memory integrity check, as the BSOD is often caused by bad physical memory. If you get it fixed, remember computers 101 - back up early, back up often!

If you're in the US, call support. If not, open a support ticket. It sounds to me like maybe a cable has come loose inside.

I'd need to see the actual preset. Export it and attach it to your reply.

No. You could make a preset template with a FS that went to your "Talk" preset, but there's no way to store the current preset # for the return trip. PREV and NEXT only move to the previous or next preset in the setlist. There are MIDI controllers that can do that, just not Helix.

It's actually labelled that way on the HXS, but not on the HXFX. Does it say that somewhere in the manual? Just wondering, hate to spread misinformation...

Turn the attenuator full counter-clockwise to the MUTE position. Keep in mind that XLR output volume is controlled by the CHANNEL Level, not the MASTER. If you want to use a custom IR Loader in your DAW you should load the Catalyst Edit program and in the speaker section, turn the speaker emulation OFF. This (or using other FX in your DAW) is really the only time you'd want to monitor through your DAW, as doing that adds latency to the signal.

From the HXFX Manual: 15. OUTPUT L/MONO, RIGHT Use unbalanced 1/4" TS cables to connect to your guitar amp or other pedals. When connecting to a mono pedal or single amp, connect only the L/MONO 1/4" jack. In your situation you might go with the HXFX for the extra switches and get a DI Box for FOH. OTOH, IDK what price/availabilty is like in your country. A quality DI Box can add quite a bit to the total cost. A good alternative might be the HXSXL. It has balanced outs for FOH and one more switch. Two more could be added for much less than a DI Box. The Helix amps will provide you backup in case the ToneX fails. Also consider, and this is just my opinion - I have both the full size ToneX and the Helix Floor. I have tried tone matching (I use Amalgam captures exclusively) and find nothing outstandingly superior about the ToneX sound OR feel vs Helix amps, and much prefer being able to use the amps' modeled tone stacks vs the ToneX EQ and hunting for "the perfect capture". The IR rabbit hole is bad enough. My main reason for keeping the ToneX remains what it was when I bought it - being able to try amps I'll never get to try (or even SEE) ITRW.

Agreed, good catch!. Setting the SEND to LINE level could overdrive the amp's Input, and if the amp's SEND is Instrument level and the Helix RETURN is set to LINE, it might be returning a lower signal. The Variax is a separate Input, so that could be where the problem lies. I don't have either a Variax or a DeVille to test but setting the FX Loop to Instrument level would be a good thing to try if you haven't already. Also, while it requires an extra block, you can always use a SEND set to Instrument and a RETURN set to Line. Just something else to try.

Not necessarily. Unfortunately, there's no standard for FX Loops. I assume that they've tried both settings.

Unless someone else with knowledge of the DeVille has another suggestion: Assign the FX Loop Block Bypass to a FS. Assign the Output Block Level to that same FS. Assign MIN (Loop Block Bypassed) to 0db. Assign MAX (Loop Block Active) to whatever level it takes to compensate.

AFAICT: The amp has 128 PRESETS. Each preset is user programmable to be a specific combination of CHANNEL and GALAXY and (assuming again) PLANETS (IRs). PC#s 0-3 are hardwired on the included FS, but all 128 are available from a standard MIDI controller. I assume that when using a standard MIDI Controller (such as Helix) that the procedure (which is similar to other MIDI amps such as the H&K GM series) would be the same for all 128 presets. The details for programming the stock 4 button MIDI FS are as follows (from the Astro manual): INCLUDED FOOTSWITCH ASTRO-20 Includes a 4 Channel Universal MIDI footswitch. The switches are fixed and correspond to MIDI PROGRAM CHANGE 0 to 3, on MIDI CHANNEL 1. The footswitch is phantom powered by the ASTRO-20 when using the 7 WIRE MIDI CABLE supplied. It can be powered externally when using it with a 5 WIRE MIDI CABLE or when using it with another device. PROGRAMMING THE FOOTSWITCH Programming the footswitch is very easy – just follow these steps: 1) Press the footswitch button you want to program. 2) Configure the ASTRO as you wish by selecting desired Channel, Galaxy and IR 3) To STORE, press to the right and hold for one second the ASTRO Channel Switch until the STAR display flashes white. Your footswitch is now programmed! You can proceed again with the next footswitch button by repeating these three steps. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Since I couldn't find any further instructions re MIDI, I'm assuming that the above is all there is to it. IOW, you can't toggle individual parts (Channel/Galaxy/Star) individually within a loaded preset using CCs. The # of possible presets should (if my math is correct) be: (1 [Clean Ch] x 6 planets [IRs] x 2 [IR active/bypassed]) + (2ch x 3 Galaxies x 6 planets [IRs] x 2 [IR active/bypassed]) 12 + 72 = 84. Pure speculation on my part. It is not clear whether or not the Volume/Tonestack controls are saved with the preset (as is the case with the H&K GM series). I do not think they are.

Sorry, answered before coffee! :-P The 5pin MIDI cable connects the HXFX to the 5pin MIDI IN of the HOST. The USB HOST port (USB A) of the HOST device connects to the Cat's USB B port. Yes, I always advise people who ask "60 vs 100" to get the 100 because they always end up in the same situation as you. Possible workaround if you're using this in a home studio - most any DAW can route MIDI, using your computer as HOST. If you don't have a DAW, download MIDIOX, which is the Swiss Army Knife of MIDI SW. It's FREE! Just connect both the Cat and the HXFX via USB to your computer and use the SW to route the signals.

No. Neither of them is a "HOST" device. You would need to get a MIDI HOST box: Amazon.com: CAMOLA USB MIDI Host Box USB to MIDI Converter MIDI Interface : Everything Else You would connect the HXFX USB to the HOST, then connect the HOST's 5 pin MIDI Out to the CX.

You probably won't like this, but... That sound starts with the guitar, a big bodied "jazz box" with a very specific type of pickup. The amp he used was a Gibson EH-150 and later the EH-185. These had 12" field-coil speakers, which have a very different sound to modern speakers. Keep in mind that the sound you're after is nothing like what he would've sounded like playing live, it's a sound that was recorded using 100-year-old equipment in a 100-year-old studio with 100-year-old recording techniques. I tried the EH-185 amp/cab combo in my Helix using a Tele, which is the closest thing I have to a single-coil jazz sound. The Helix EH-185 was modeled directly from the amp schematics and the final results fine-tuned against the actual amp. It sounded nothing like the recordings. Unfortunately, they did not model the original field-coil speaker. Hopefully they'll shoot IRs of it using the current techniques, but even so, I do not think it will sound like those primitive recordings. There may be IRs of that speaker out there, but you'd need to research that. While I like jazz (and wish I could play it worth a damn), if you compare, say, recordings of Jim Hall or Herb Ellis, recorded on more modern gear (though still ancient by today's standards), while the style of playing is similar, and the guitars are similar, the tone is VERY different than those primitive Charlie Christian recordings. I was able to get some very nice jazz-like tones out of my Tele using the "Clean" and "Boutique" amps with a touch of reverb but couldn't come close to those old CC recordings and quickly got bored trying. CC wasn't trying to sound like anybody but himself. He used those Gibson amps because that was what was available at the time. All he was trying to do with his amp was to be heard over the rest of the (often BIG) band. If he were around today, I'd bet he'd be using a Roland Jazz Chorus or a Fender Twin. My advice - don't try to sound like those ancient recordings. Find a tone with YOUR guitar using the clean/boutique amps that you find pleasing and focus on playing.

The HX/Helix family all sound the same FX wise. The PodGo lacks the over-sampling improvements of the HX/Helix family, which not everyone can even hear. The HXFX lacks the auto-impedance feature on the input, so certain FX (mostly fuzz) won't sound right, which only matters if you're familiar with the sound of the RW effect and that's important to you. The HXS wired in 4cm (four cable method - allows for pre and post FX) requires a single FX Loop Block which can be placed anywhere in the chain. That leaves 7 FX slots that can contain anything you want anywhere you want it or multiples of specific FX in any order. You can even use HX amps AND your physical amp's pre in the same preset and switch between them (available DSP allowing). A cheap 2 button FS gives you 5 switches, or an expression pedal can be used. Having the option of the HX amps means that if your physical amp dies at a gig you can go direct to FOH from the HXS Balanced Outs without even needing a DI Box. The HXSXL adds switches, an extra snapshot (4 vs 3) and a "LIVE" display which takes the place of the Scribble Strips on the full-fat Helix Floor model. There're probably other differences/similarities between the HX and PodGo, but those are the most important ones as far as I'm concerned.

Glad it helped. Rock On!

In Global Settings>Preferences, SNAPSHOT EDITS needs to be set to RECALL, else you need to SAVE the preset before switching Snapshots. The following assumes that the FS overrides the panel switch settings and that TIP = CHANNEL and RING = TREM. SS1 - IC1 = NONE The amp should be on Ch1, Trem OFF SS2 - IC1 = TIP The amp should be on CH 2, Trem OFF SS3 - IC1 = 1 and 2 Amp should be on Ch2, Trem ON SS4 - IC1 = RING Amp should be on Ch1, Trem ON Since I don't have a channel switching amp, I tested this with a multi-meter. Example preset attached. Jimpok Badcat.hlx

Very simple. It's called Four Cable Method (4cm). Guitar>HXFX Input>Boost/OD/Fuzz>FX Loop Block>HXFX Send>Amp Input>Amp Send>HXFX Return>Mod/Dely/Reverb>HXFX Output>Amp Return This is the same configuration for all HX devices. If you need a FOH Send, place a second HXFX Send at the end of the signal chain and use that for the Amp Return followed by an IR Block at the very end of the chain, then use the HXFX Output to a DI and on to FOH.

Like the full-fat Helix models, the HXFX has the External Amp jacks, but whether or not that will work for him depends on his yet-to-be-revealed amp. USUALLY, if the amp uses a standard 2-button FS with TRS cable that simply switches channels and toggles an effect (usually reverb) it'll work, but there are exceptions and no, I don't know for sure which amps fall into the exception category.

Amp control depends on the amp. HXS/HXSXL both transmit MIDI PC, CC (single and toggle) and NOTE. You may run into difficulty depending upon what you need to transmit and when. A FS can only send a single MIDI message. A Snapshot can send more than one, but if for instance, you need to TOGGLE CCs, you'd need TWO Snapshots for that, and since you have only 3 (HXS) or 4 (HXSXL) that could limit your options. Also, HXS/HXSXL do not have simple amp control (channel switching). So, unless your amp uses MIDI for that, that would also limit your options unless you get a MIDI switching device like the VooDoo Labs Control.

True enough when using plugins. I don't use Helix for that either. Since you own an M2, any ideas on OP's problem - Helix>Monitors=GOOD;Helix>M2>Monitors=BAD?

This: MIDI Solutions Thru; Two Output MIDI Thru Box

My bad. You are correct.

What is the purpose of using the MOTU instead of Helix? That would allow you to get a simultaneous DI recording for re-amping with Native and keep the signal digital (no AD/DA conversion) from Helix>Reaper>monitors. Also, some USB powered AI's can add noise. Motu is good stuff, so probably not the problem, BUT... If you have a reason for using it: Use the Motu's MONITOR button to get DIRECT MONITORING from the Helix THRU the Motu to the speakers. Make sure that Phantom Power (48v) is OFF! Use the Helix Volume knob for your live monitoring level (same as Helix>Monitors). Use the MOTU Gain knob to get the proper recording level (-18/-12db) in Reaper. Set the Helix Output to INSTRUMENT if the signal into Reaper is too hot. Turn OFF the Track Input Monitor button in Reaper. Reaper will record and play back thru the Motu, but your live playing will always be direct from Helix>Monitors, without the Motu pre-amps in between. EDIT: To clarify, the MONITOR button on the Motu routes the signal at the Inputs directly to the Output, but the signal is still being sent via USB to Reaper. Turning OFF the Track Input Monitor button in Reaper prevents the signal being recorded from passing back to the Motu which would cause a "slapback" effect as it would be delayed (latency) when heard combined with the DIRECT MONITOR signal. The recorded track will still playback through the Motu as expected.